Problem with ball diff T-nut
 

Hi

I've been building my 210 up over the bank holiday weekend, taking my time and trying to do it as best as possible.
I got everything built up and followed the diff build guide on the internet.
The circlip is in the right way and has been checked and re-checked
but the problem I'm having is getting the T-nut far enough down to not cause bother with the drive shaft and give it enough space to freely move back and forth

but I cant seem to get the T-nut down far enough

I have compressed the diff spring several times with pliers but still have a problem as you can see from the attached pic

I have checked and double checked that everything is as it should be according to the manual and have rebuilt the diff three times trying to get this sorted.

any body have any suggestions or advice?

From the picture it looks fine. In the first 210 kits, the maunual had wrong length on turnbuckles. On Team Durango web page you can find the updated manual.
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...210-manual.pdf

I found it harder than expected to thread the plastic of the T nut compaired with say a nyloc, not wanting to gorilla it up all i was doing initially was screwing into the nut and against the plastic housing and confusing this with being tight.

Thanks for the replies

I've given the spring some more compression and the T-nut is sitting a bit better now.

But now when I turn the wheel by hand it gets to a point and seems to cause a bounce.
when I turn the opposite wheel you can hear it start turning the spur but the other wheel does not turn.

I've stripped the diff and rear end and rebuilt it again but still have the same issue.
Not quite sure where the problem could be tbh

any advice or suggestions would be most welcome

Is your camber ok? Maybe you have too much negative camber.

When i first built mine, I thought there was no way for enough clearance between drive shaft and diff nut, but the beauty in this cars design is nearly zero drive shaft plunge.

camber is fine have checked it and both rear wheels sitting at a comfortable 0 degrees
plenty clearance on the wheels as well

When I first built one I thought that I had tightened the diff as far as it would go but the drive shaft was catching the nut. I then put some gorrilla strength into turning the diff screw asnd once it started turning it then went on for another three full turns. I think you just have to break the back of the hard plastic in the T nut, then all is OK.

When I built my second diff I tapped out the nut first and it then went together very easilly.

Neither of these problems are the course.

You have to much droop.
Causing the dogbone to be to much out of the outdrive and binding a little bid.
Thats all.