54028 damper oil
 

Anyone know what sort of WT the Tamiya (soft) oil is that comes with 54028 buggy dampers?

Thanks.

soft - red - 20
soft - orange - 30
soft - yellow - 40
medium - green - 50
medium - blue - 60
medium - purple - 70
hard - pink - 80
hard - clear - 90
hard - light blue - 100

get some much more oil, it's much better than the tamiya crap :thumbsup:

random child

A

actually the Tamiya stuff is pretty good, just small bottles, but they are colour coded which makes it so you don't need to remember what weight oil went in lol

nice one :thumbsup:

That´s the kind of stuff I love ! Thank a lot !:lol:

Excellent

I have the 90wt then the clear bottle.
And the "stock" yellow soft for the rear.

I ran this setup and it worked great.

You do realise that makes noooo sense what so ever!!! :thumbsup:

YOUR ACE

BMag, do you run pistons with the 90wt oil or not bother? :confused:

G

I just use some gentlemans relish in mine after bmags advice:thumbsup:

do you run cheese graters or pistons

Not correct!!

#300 IS NOT 30WT

I always run AE or Losi oils. The Losi oils are color coded AND have weights printed outside the bottle on the label. It even has the weight printed on the bottle cap.

The AE oils have a HUGE weight printed on the label...

If you had lived in Japan or knew japanese people...you'd understand that what they do is not exactly a crap. ..

I use AE only

WOW GUYS! This thread is a total FAIL! I'm suprised you guys would sticky the first bit of nonsense someone posted.

Tamiya oil is measured in CST (centistrokes), a WORLDWIDE STANDARD In no way is a 900cst damper oil anything like a 90wt. In fact, "Weight" is not a universal standard, so you cannot compare one brand of oil's "weight" to another without actually measuring it. Every companies 30wt oil will be quite a bit different. Yes, this goes for motor oil as well...

Here's a little article for you:
http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...eral&Itemid=46

You said it!! Comparing CST to WT is very tricky and no where close to what was posted in this thread..

do not bother with the Tamiya shock oil

build the shocks as per Tamiya instructions and then

put associated 40 weight in the front and associated 30 weight in the rear for a good balance. works a treat at my local club.

Super Gripper: Do you drill out the upper caps and add the bleed screws?

- if so: How far up do you push the piston/rod before installing the bleed screw?

- if not: How much air do you leave inside the dampers?

The TRF damper instructions don't even agknowledge the function of the bleed screws (even though they provide them). The 501x instructions mention installing the screws, but not how to setup the fluid w/ the valve in place...

no i have not drilled out the hole for the bleed screw, i can set the dampers without doing that.

i fill the dampers 2/3 then slowly raise the piston allowing the trapped air to escape while making sure the piston does not break the surface of the oil.
when all the air has escaped i then fill the damper cylinder to the top. the oil at the top should look concave.
pull the piston all the back down.
top up cylinder if necerssary.
screw cap on.
hold the threaded portion of the piston and push all the way up to your fingers.
when you let go the piston should come back half way down by itself.
damper set.
easy.

hope this helps

I have done it this way for over 20 years and never had a problem.

So you are leaving air in the shock then.... :confused:

yes thats right. it does sound wrong I know but it works :thumbsup:

people comment on how smooth the shocks feel and however odd it maybe having that little bit of air under the cap sounds, its fine.

never ever had a problem