My Yokomo MR-4bx
 

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Chassis: Specialmade by Fibro-lyte (0.5.mm thicker than orginal and less holes in)

Shocktowers: Doubble/6.5mm from Fibro-lyte

Upper chassis: Special made 2.5.mm

Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F

Sus.pin ball: B-max BM-300B

Hinge pin rear: Piano thread 3*54mm

Hinge pin front: Yokomo BD-5 BD-009BR (I have drilled the holes in the bulkhead to 3.mm)

Plastic rod end: B-max BM206

Wheel hub front: B-max BM-011F

Spur: Ass B4 #9653 84.t. (J.C. silent gear)

Belts: Tough racing Front TRT B180

Rear TRF B181

Wing Mount: B-max BM-001

Mid pulley: ZC-671H (drilled)

Diff.Balls: B-max ZD-505T Tungsten carbide

Diff.Lube: Nuclear

Diff.Thrust balls: ZS-507T Tungsten carbide

Pinions: Tamiya TRF

Shock caps: Ass #6443

Stablizer kit: B-max BM-412 (F and R) With custom made plate

Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025/ Ansmann 125000942 (Blizzard)

Rear Cvd axl: Team C. bone from #TU0233 + Yokomo B-max2 B2-010RA/B-max4 BM-010RAC (with the RAC you also can use the Losi 22 hex with no problems if you want).
Or Losi tlr 22 rear axl/mip.

Battery post: 3-racing Zx-5

That really looks nice.

What shock oils are you using and what surface are you running on

I have one for sale whit new front arms mod and lots of parts for 100$ Canadien plus shipping just saying.

Den :thumbsup:

I'm basically driving on astro here in Norway. We have a lot of good astrotracks here now;-)

I drive with the white pistons/ 2#1.4mm holes front and the black 2#1.3mm rear and uses Losi oil 35-40 front and 25-30 rear.

I have a lot of bx-parts in stock, if I didn't-I would have bought yours, no doubt! :-)
I also have the Durango Dex410, but I drive the bx-ho ho;-) -It's so much smoother!

Interesting:P

ohh
 

Nice work there Arne!

Razer! hohohoho go on!!

Looks nice dude, really need to give mine a good rebuild one day.I would take the little rear gear box cover off though, I found it make the diff stayed cleaner for longer without the rear covered, lets the dirt pass straight through.

Looks good. Is it possible to have some pictures of the modified layshaft pulley out of the car?

I can take some more pic tomorrow;-)

Thanks!

I see what you mean.

Since I drive on the astro, I never have any problem with dirt arround the diff-even if it's rubber or sand in the astrotracks.

Yes man, very interesting! Bring it to Lørenskog;-)

The stablizersystem in the rear looks a bit advansed but actually it makes it more easy to change the belt and the diff.

It's less screws to remove!

I bought some carbon on hobbyking and dremel the top of the rear.

Now I can easly adjust the inner link up and down, just to remove or put in one of the carbonplates. It's ony 4 screws. :-)

REO :-)

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Some pic when I made it. I used some plastic between the pulleys.

I have tighten it, I have no need of the one-way system. But I can of course loosen it if I need:-)

Pics are gone sorry for the delay bud I was out of town for buisiness.

Den.

http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...3567890010.jpg
Put in the Nosram Pearl v.2/90905 esc.

Sold mine to Naushad hope you have fun post pics of it wen you get it going bud i had a LRP SXX tc whit 10.5 Novak worked goood let me now wen it comes in.

Den.

Hi
 

Thanks Denis... I will let you know.

I'm making electric adjustments to the bx I have now. I also need to fiddle with the shocks.

I'm sure I'll get cracking on the bx you've sent me soon enough!

Naushad

Hello,

Have you done some adjustments or specific tooling to fit the Team C dogbones in front and rear ?

Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025
Rear Cvd axl: Team C. T02058

And, using Bmax4 arms...does it change the wheels base or/and width?

Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F

Bastos

Using the Bmax front arms did not change the wheel base or whidth just the shock location in the bottom of the arm.

Den. :thumbsup:

Only thing I had to do was a little (very little!) dremling inside the rear hub.
Everything else fitted right on!

In about 3 weeks I will try to fit the B-max2 rear axles in the rear, maybe the fits right on:)

The B-max2 axles did not fit right on, only the wheel axl part fit.

So I drive the Team c part #T04027 bone with the Yokomo B-max2 #B2-010RA, they fits perfect together:-)

Got any pic of your bx yet? :-)

Yeah I will get some sorted out soon...no problem!

Nothing special about the setup...more or less
stock!

Just finished refitting electrics and new tyres.

[QUOTE=Arnefles;652603]The B-max2 axles did not fit right on, only the wheel axl part fit.

So I drive the Team c part #T04027/TU0233 bone with the Yokomo B-max2 #B2-010RA, they fits perfect together but the car gets a bit wide so you have to put a shim on the inside of the hub.

But now I tryed the B-max4 axl (BM-010RAC) and it fits even better, and now you also can use the Losi 22 rims with a hex if you want-it fits very well :-)

In the end: Team C #TU0233 + Yokomo BM-010RAC :-)

In pictures…That's mine…

There is a long time I have to do it…re-furbushing my BX with my personal « touch »…

We can not see it but Motor and batteries are forward about 7 mm…chassis, top deck ( Thx Fiberlite ) and belts ( Thx BANDO ) have change for more steering and traction.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7785/img0661j.jpg

Sometime we are « fashion victim »…but sometime it is really necessary…BX « Bigbored »
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Use of « BX World » camber link support with additional point location to make the camber link longer to get more « front traction » and steering at low speed.
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Speedo ( RS Pro ) and receiver on a same side ( for well balance R/L ) on carbon plate…the access to pinion is more complicated…so…leave two screws and you have a complete access to adjust the pinion & spur .
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As the Lipo are lighter…two brass plate ( 1,5 mm thickness ) are inserted under each for the circonstancy => 50gr more for each saddle.
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Rear Shock support « Special Bradders » with intermediate point location to adjust the rear grip perfectly…
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Looks great!! The big bore suit it. I hope it handles well!

Your shock towers look moulded together. How did you achieve that?

Just cyanocrilate on the edge. Apply multilayers of cyano to get this result...but between each layer of cyano...sand the edge ( 400-600 ) ...at the end you've got something "round" like the photos.
The advantage is, when you scratch the edge of your towers, you can sand it again and repair it without damaging the carbon.

The car look's great, nice finish!

I noticed you moved your batteries...

How much weight did you put on, anything between the batteries or just arround?

I did also try the big bore from the B-max, but I think my car handles better over here with the orginal shocks.

But I didn't do to much research... ;-)

I put 50gr but under each saddle

My Special BX. Hope to get tested it soon:woot:

Hey Andreas!!!

How are you doing man!

So moving to the Bx...what's prompted this?

Nice car. Like the carbon effect diff cover!

Are those yokomo big bores? Why have you used a plastic front shock tower?

What electric setup are you using?

Interesting... Never seen b-max shocktower on the bx!

Hello guys :)

I think that the big bore use by Eraser are from "Team C or Ansmann"...to be confirm
For the front shock tower...it's a nice choice against "carbon" breakage...

Cheers
Bastos

you should turn around those screws on front shock.. but intersting to see if that tower is ok.

i think too it's teamC big bore (or ansmann)

i've received my MR4 Bx yesterday, i think i'll post some pics in a few days

Good job Bastos! That car looks really Langlet'ified! :thumbsup:

Hi

Yes, the Big Bores are from Team C., got no Yokomo Big Bores:(.
-Front Arms are HB D4
-B-Max front Shock towers are much cheaper as the carbon ones
-Special rear design...

I have also an Yokomo MR4-BX like new and a Worlds Edition:drool:


@Naushad......My Race Car is still the ACADEMY SB-V3:thumbsup: