Build Questions
 

In Bag A (the CVD's), what size hex driver do I need for the little grub screws!?

I can't get my calipers in to check, and neither my imperial or metric drivers go small enough to get them in?

It is .005"

That small, or 0.05"? I've tried the 0.05" and can't get it to fit, 0.005" may explain!

Actually I am guessing you mean't 0.05, I've looked at a couple of shop sites and can;t find any wrenches smaller than that.

Which means either my grub screws are the wrong size, or the driver I bought is!?

They are definately 0.05, make sure the grub screw hex hasn't burred over

good luck

Sorry dave, yes .05":bored:

Think its the brand new driver I have bought, when I look at it it is wider at the tip than lower down the shaft!

Next question, putting the ball studs for the camber link on the rear shock tower, the instructions just mention the stud and a nut on te other side, but it loks like it might pull out of the carbon in an accident, should I use the 2 spare (there are 4 in the bag, 2 for use on the shock screws) spacers for this or has no-one found a problem with them?

I havent broken that dave, but i dont see any harm in putting an extra washer on the stud size, i wouldnt put the nut on though as this will move the link backwards and angle it, not sure what it will do but i think a straight link is better.

A washer would provide the same anyway as the stud acts the same as a nut.

Ok, bear with me on this one all, I'm sure its a really stupid question but I have never had dampers before which are filled from the bottom and not the top, so I am not sure how to make sure they are air free?

With others I use you pump the piston up and down before topping off the oil, but presumably I can't do that with these, so do I just brim them before screwing the bottom assembly on?

Push the shock shaft all the way into the cartridge so that the balljoint is at the cartridge. Then plop the extended shaft and piston into the shock body and push it all the way in slowly (ooooer :thumbsup:) Then screw the cartridge into the body slowly and wipe off the excess oil. On Losi shocks you fill the body up to the bottom of the threads before letting the piston sink in.

That does the trick for me and the Aero shocks work pretty much the same.

Pretty much!

• Fill the body up to just above the first thread inside
• put the cartridge in and tighten until a couple of threads are left.
• push the shock shaft in slowly to the bottom (and let the shock bleed oil)
• finally nip up the cartridge
• check the balljoint can bottom on the cartridge... if it doesn't loosen the cartdridge and bleed a little more oil.

Hope that helps

Great Thanks guys, I like the idea of this way of doing the shocks (plus love the fact that the bottom part is prebuilt) as hopefully one piece will make the top less likely to break!

If they have will I need to file out the hex?

Do any other makes use 0.05" grub screws of the same type by the way, I normally like to get spares for little bits like that?

you can have a go but they are so small you may struggle. I'm not sure why your driver doesn't fit, i've never had a problem with them. sometimes they are a little tight but thats a good thing as they are so small you want a good fit.

They are the same size as used in any car that uses MIP CVDs (associated, losi etc) but Aero will have bits like that available now, if not very soon.

Finally got the cvd's together by literally pushing a second 0.05" tool onto the grub screws :mad:. However, one of them spat my tool out first time I tried it and by then the thread lock had been on about 10 mins, anyone know how quickly it stops being effective, I don't want to lose a pin!?

Also, what are the cvd's made of? Had to really push on them to get the tool in the screw, worried I may have bent them?

If that sounds a stupid question my Tam tourer has aluminium driveshafts, and they bend all the time!!


Finally, for replacements, anyone reckon "ASC7381 CVD Rebuild Kit:T3,T4,TC4" will do the trick? If so I can get some from Losi parts house!? In fact does anyone know if these parts are the same for the cvd and axle too as on the T3?

I look for the manual of the Aero A-one...
Someone have this?

[email protected]

thanks !!

Hi Maxoo,

I can't get to mine till the weekend, but can scan it in then and send it?

I think titanium, thought I read it somewhere

perfect !!!

big thanks !!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Is there any way of getting air into the esc/motor?

I'm not sure of the rules, would airholes on the top of the sidepods be ok?

Dave the front of the shell has a gap all the way round it, i think this will allow a fair bit of air through.

Also where the steering linkage goes, you can cut this back further if you want too. I cant see there being any problem with thermalling, i havent come accross any problems.

I think you can drill some holes above the fan for the brca meetings but if you are doing euros etc you will get ur wrist slapped:cry:

Right, I am obviously being an idiot with the slipper, but...

How on earth do I tighten/loosen it!?!? I can't get to the nut once its in the slipper in order to grip it so I can either tighten or loosen the slipper clutch!!

Do the instructions show the wrong nut, or is there some tool in the kit I can use to grip the nut??

No it's a feature.... until the tool comes out....stick a flat bladed screw driver in there for now

Grr, not having fun with this build so far, I'm useless!

Ok, have used theflat bladed screwdriver, but sadly the result is I now have a bent (but hopefully tight) slipper screw!! And no part number in the kit for the slipper screw!?

Also, have I managed to knacker it or is it right that the whole slipper assembly/spur is off kilter, it isn't straight at all now I've mounted it into the chassis. Its all pointed to the left front and right rear, have I broke it or does everyone else have the same thing?

Dave

I dont know the part number, but the spur/slipper pads look pretty similar to associated ones...I would think an associated screw would fit.

You mean the drive shafts etc dont run down the centre of the chassis?..thats normal

Sorry mate, hard to explain what I mean, I think they all do the same from looking at pics, what I mean is that the spur gear is not straight across the chassis, I don't have the motor mounted yet but it looks like the mesh won't be straight as the spur is at an angle.

Has one of the slipper pads moved?...just been looking at mine and it's pretty straight to be honest

the spur gear has pretty much the same clearance either side of the slipper support and seems to run straight enough.

can you take a pic?

Can;t get a pic until Monday, but yours helped thanks, in as far as its confirmed mine is knackered!!

Not sure how though, my outdrives are out of line as much as my slipper is, the entire assembly is off, in an angle similar to (though I don't think as severe as) your rear cvd.

Really :confused:, I wouldn't have thought the slipper mounts could be wrong as they are bolted together, but can't think what else would put the entire unit out of line. I know I have the bent slipper screw but I would have thought that would have created a wobbly effect, not a smooth but always out of line unit.

:confused::confused::confused:

The slipper screw bends because of the spring under the nut and having to shove a screwdriver up the outdrive to hold the nut. It doesn't actually do anything negative to the slipper.

I would have thought your slipper pads had moved while you were assembling it to get it completely squiff...

Are the alloy mounts out of line ? ...sorry still trying to work out what part isnt straight...

I'd take it all out again and start over (just the slipper and mounts:lol:).

If the mounts line up straight, then its your spur/slipper. Take it apart again and make sure the slipper pads are in the slots in the spur

I'll post a pic tomorrow night, it's the entire slipper assembly, including outdrives and spur, which look out of line compare to the alloy mounts. Which seems impossible to me! I'd have though if it was the slipper pads it would look wobbly as you spin it, but this stays consistently out of line in the same direction!?

Wondering if its optical illusion!!

Ok,

am charging my camera at the momnt so will get a pic up asap, but, and I know this will seem weird....

The problem is that the outdrives have not gone on the bearings "straight". So its like the inside of the bearings you pt on the outdrives are not straight and therefore the whole spur assembly mounts off true.

Could this be the shims, as these bent as they went on? Other than that, anyone know why I'd have duff bearings!?

Haha, talking to myself here but this may come in useful for anyone else building the car:

Ok, found the problem, it was how I had assembled the slipper mount with the two nuts at the bottom which have a screw in each side of them. I had tightened them all up with one side of the mount offset compared to the other, which is what then put the bearings etc out of line. Just reassembled it and the problem has disappeared!

Glad to hear you've got it sorted :thumbsup:

Next Question!!

Not a biggy, haven't got calipers with me and was wondering about the ball cup size on the kit, for the shocks, are they 4 or 5 mm, or imperial, does anyone know? I want to get some spares!

BTW, EASILY the nicest shocks to build I have ever had, certainly puts Tamiya to shame!!

Once there's some spares knocking about, may have to get another set and out them on my 501X!

yer i agree very nice shocks :thumbsup: its not really a build question but i thought it would help
also you might want to be careful when you put your batteries in because you might short them out if you touch them to theslipper mount i almost did it so me and kev put a peice of foam over it to stop that :thumbsup:

Ok, two more questions from the build (I have NEVER used a shaft drive car before so apologies if these are stupid questions!)

I've put the gearboxes together and on to the car and two things are apparent:

1. There are bad tight spots in the drivetrain, not knochy all the time but just tight spots. Will these improve with running?

2. The rear diff case overhangs at the back when attached to the chassis, meaning dirt can get in to it. Is there any reason for this? I'm pretty sure I have done front and back correctly, so it seems odd to me? I am planning to just tape over it but just can't see why its there?

1. There are bad tight spots in the drivetrain, not knochy all the time but just tight spots. Will these improve with running?

Depends how bad it is? there may be some tight spots that will go with running in. As long as its not notchy, if it is, it may be because the bevel gear is shimmed too far and is clipping the diff plate.


2. The rear diff case overhangs at the back when attached to the chassis, meaning dirt can get in to it. Is there any reason for this? I'm pretty sure I have done front and back correctly, so it seems odd to me? I am planning to just tape over it but just can't see why its there?

Have you fitted the rear brace yet? the brace locates in that gap and covers it

hope that helps