Aero Setups
 

Hi All,

Interested to see what setups people are running on the car if anyone has run it yet, specifically:

1. Damper oil weight

2. Gearing (I don't know the final drive so not sure what people are running, if anyone has a 5.5 or 4.5 motor especially 'd be interested to know?)

3. Slipper settings

4. What electrics (servo's/motors/esc's)

Hopefully I'll be able to get a few pointers from it!

Hi Dave

This is what i am currently running

1, Front: Losi red piston with 40wt
Rear: Aero piston drilled with losi 54 holes (Blue)

2, on Nosram/LRP 5.5 (with sintered rotor) - 21/84

3, Slipper set to 250gramms on the tool :thumbsup:. But my advice would be to start loose and work your way up gradually. You need a bit of slip to "save" the gears

4, Tekin R1 Pro, LRP/Nosram 5.5, Team Almighty EnerG4600, KO 2413

hope that helps

Kev, whats this slipper tool??? i read that there was one in the manual but it didnt come in the kit so assumed it was a language thing:confused:

its a set of scales Lee:woot:,+ the attachment

I think im midsing something here:o

Yeh, as wraggy said, its a set of digital kitchin scales and a lever arm with drivehsaft attachment. It allows you to consistently setup your slipper without the guess work. I think Aero are working on a something at the moment.

Hmm, I normally run with the slipper very tight and let it wheelspin, but I've always used belt drive before so it just breaks the belts, not the gears! From what I've seen of the manual (I don't have it with me), will it be pretty easy to keep removing the slipper to tighten it if I build up gradually? I remember the manual saying back off an 1/8th of a turn I think?

Also, I'm sure someone has already said this at some point but is the kit spur 48dp? I need to get hold of some pinions!

Dave

Oh, and back on my receiver thing, KevLee you run Spektrum don't you? DO you use a micro or normal size spektrum receiver?

I'm asking as it doesn't look like my futaba will fit, but if the normal size spektrum does I could get the HRS version and not lose any response time!

Dave, the slipper unit can be removed in 10 secs or so. And yes the spur is 48dp.

Has anyone moved the steering links to the top of the rack to try and get rid of the toe out when the suspension is compressed?

I have done it but not run it yet but i had to shim the hub end by about 1.5mm to stop lots of toe in when it compresses.:)

Lee, the slipper tool is in this pic. I've seen a pic of it being used but this is the only one i can find. It's sitting just under the car;)

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/OOP_8860.jpg

Cheers for the info Lee!

Bit of info from Aero (although I'm guessing everyone got the email), they've said the team drivers have been using the 0degree rear toe in so far, so don't think I'm going to bother changing mine!

Has anyone run the car yet, I know they've warned about weak wishbones but I'm interested to see if anyone has dared run it anyway?

Dave

I have run the car the last two weeks at Eden Park and Kidderminster....

I had some sensor wire issues at Eden park which was frustrating, yesterday at Kiddie the car felt really good when the track was dry... could do with a little more time to get perfect set ups..

At the moment there is lot of time being spent on getting the car right for all tracks, this isn't going to happen over night.

I have doubled up on front shock tower to give me the extra 3mm support..
The time spent on getting this car right will only benefit the customers so keep your eyes open on setups and future updates....

Im lucky that i pit with UK Team driver Kev Lee so i can see what effort is being made...

How weak are the wishbones?

The fronts look very similar to bj4 ones.

As soon as i get a dry day im going to have a run out with it:thumbsup:

I'm trying to decide how quickly to push mine into action, am I right in thinking there's no spares available as yet?

Does anyone know when they will be available?

Due to the cold that we have in Britain this time of year the wishbone are a little brittle...

They won't break by just going round the track or jumping etc... you would have to hit something to break them.

So they aren't like glass!!!

Will BJ4 ones fit?

And does anyone know when theraceplace will be getting the first batch of bits?:)

I broke a front wishbone yesterday and replaced it with a B44 one. There's a small amount of dremmeling to do where the inner hinge pin is (too much plastic on the B44 one) and the hinge pin hole is too small (drilled out to about 3mm).

Also broke a rear hub and replaced it in similar fashion.

I'm fitting alloy rear hubs next but have to get the hinge pin hole drilled out again (3mm).

good to know stu, how did the car go? Did you change it from the std pistons?


Also a little tip, the std O rings feel very hard and tight on the shaft, i rebuilt mine with nortech whities and i filed down the top spacer a touch to stop them being squashed so much. They feel really nice now.

kev told be about the thinner top shim bit but im not sure if he changed the O rings as well:)

car was pretty good. my setup needed/needs some work though.

I was running
Rear
32.5wt
blue piston
kit pink spring rear

Front
35wt
orange piston
kit orange springs front.

With hindsight (and talking to some other people)
Rear
30wt
blue piston
Losi Red spring

Front
40wt
red piston
kit orange spring

is a good starting point. (I think KevLee posted above).

Those kit black piston holes are far too small (I just use losi ones now).

Oh, when I changed the front wishbone, I changed both sides. they look identical apart from the extra material around the hinge pin, but you never know. Just keeps it all even

OK cheers stu,

Do you find when running a losi piston at the rear that the car will not pack and slaps down of a jump, i cant get the rear to stop bottoming out from about 8", i think the losi piston might be fractionally smaller in diameter.

I am going to drill out a aero piston to #54/ 1.4mm and try that , the front feels fine though:thumbsup:

So is it only the B44 part that needs changing, or did you have to dremel/drill any of the Aero?

I reckon if I can use B44 wishbones and then find some front uprights too (not the ali castor blocks) that'll fit I can risk using the car!

yes, you just dremmel the B44 parts to get them to fit...

The rear hubs require an extra 1mm spacer to get them to fit, plus drilling the hinge pin hole.

I'm looking for some drill bits now...any idea where to get them from? (the racers edge ones any good?)

yeah, that's why I was trying the 32.5wt oil to stop a bit of that. I'll be trying the drilled pistons too (once I get some drills!! :D)

I can order a batch of Losi piston size drills (proper number ones) if you guys want? :confused:

G

Hmm, I use cheapo b&q ones but I'm guessing their not a very exact size! I'd have thought a good DIY drill bit would to though?

Anyone know of any other make of front uprights that might fit too? I'm thinking it could be a little while before we see Aero spares, they've only had about 30 kits so far from a preorder list of @150!

Have to say though, am very impressed with their attitude to us, they've been really helpful to me, and owned up straight away over the wishbones issue!

Sorry Stu. :blush:

lol, no worries spence I dont blame you at all.

Actually, it was a good thing, cos now I know I can use other parts :thumbsup:

As soon as The Raceplace has stock of all Aero products we will announce on here..

We are hoping for end of next week!!!

You can probably get a durga/501x front end to fit. At least the wishbones ought to be a straight fit with a bit of dremelling but would save you the drilling out of the holes.

I got some losi style number drill bits today:thumbsup: the correct numbers too

54 55 56 57

The kit holes are smaller than the losi black piston:o

Im hopefully going to give mine a run tomorrow if its dry:thumbsup:

hmm, my other car is a 501x, it'd be great if I could move some parts between the 2, I might get the calipers out this weekend and see! What's the Aero hub bearing size again? Also anyone know the drive shaft lengths?

Just thinking until spares are available could literally put an entire 501x front end on if necessary!

Setup question for a dummy like me:

If the piston holes are very small, can't I counteract it with light shock oil?

Yes to get the same feel at slow piston speeds, but say you land of a jump the shock will pack and lock up so not absorb the landing as much as you would like.:)

I had mine out today, i took the aero to batley as well:lol:

The car felt pretty good and its able to be pushed and still stays on line even with the biggest bumps batley could throw at it.:thumbsup:

I tried the setup as kev posted above which was good but i found the car to snatch a little on the grass mid corner, i moved the front camber link to the inner hole on the hub, sorted:thumbsup:, it was more aggressive turning in but felt really nice.

I really didnt know what to try next so i just went from an orange to a losi green spring just to see what it did and it felt very good, the car had more slow speed steering and held lines even better, but i clipped a paving stone and broke a wishbone :thumbdown:, i got some b44 ones on the way home so ill be drilling them out tonight.

All together im a happy chappy, the car feels good and was rapid in a straight line, im going to play with the rear shocks as i think they need thicker oil in (ae 30wt with 54 drilled aero piston Currently)

Looking forward to the weekend now:thumbsup::woot:

Had another run today, had a few teething problems early on, like the screws that hold the front hubs on coming loose. but its an easy fix.


The car felt very safe early on, too safe to be quick. i changed from a 3 deg toe block back to kit and the car was suprisingly good. The track was super slippy(batley) and i was running BB green spikes.

Right now the setup is

Front, 40wt losi green spring, red piston
Inner link on hub, and top inner on shock tower.
0.5 camber
Toe 0 deg

Rear 32.5 wt pink spring blue piston (drilled aero #54)
Std toe
Camber link 3/4 way down on tower, middle on hub
Camber 0.5

Ride height is the usual drive shafts level on rear and wishbones level up front,

The car feels good, i think the car will be awesome when it gets a set of minispikes on it. To give it some side bite. Its very easy to drive it for 5 mins without it biting you.

I am also using a 1 way diff.


slipper setup: with an allen key:woot:

Lee, how did it go yesterday? did laying the rear shocks down improve the rear end or did you break it again:cry: Looked good what i saw though. After getting the teething problems out of the way it should be good:thumbsup:

The rear end felt too soft with them moved in top and bottom, i moved them back for the final but it was hard to gauge if it was better as i couldnt feel my fingers and i took some random lines at times.

I think its 90% there now, just fine tuning, the car can be driven fast and can go up the inside of someone when you want it too. just need to make it reliable but like i say its all pretty much done now.:thumbsup:

Lee i thought your setup yesterday was rear wishbone not connected :lol:
Seems the cold took its toll on the parts.

The only thing that i actually broke yesterday was the front wishbone and this was only where the ball stud pulled out where the shock bottom connects, i put a longer steering link on, the other was too short and made it weak, and my rear camber link nut came off, so ill be purchasing some nylock ones asap.

Just ironing out the creases before the nats:lol:

Setup sheet
 

I have made up a quick setup sheet for the Aero. Have a look i dont mind anyone using it. Let me know if i have missed anything off it:)

Attachment 2487