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Hi,

What classes do you race? Ie is it based on ability or motor limit etc

I have 2wd and 4wd buggies but think id like to stick with the 2wd at first till i progress with my driving skills. Does this sound like a good idea?

The 2wd is a losi xxx. any set up advice?

I've been looking at upgrading my esc and motor to brushless before i try racing, any recomendations for your tracks? both for the 2wd and 4wd.

Thanks

Alan

In your sig, It says you have a ZX5?
Personally i would say that is better than the losi.

I'd say so too! Its easier to drive fast, just thought the losi might make me a better driver long term if i started with that? Someone told me learn 2wd before 4wd, not sure how good that advice is?

To be honest 2WD will make you better.

I try to do both. 4WD is easier for sure, They drive/jump 10 times easier than 2WD, I have never driven the old losi cars so i can't comment.

Id be looking at a 7.5t Combo, That was you can run either.
LRP are on of the best, But the ORCA combo is great value and top quality stuff!

Its down to you at the end of the day! :thumbsup:

Drop by Sunday and have a look! (Shamless Plug!!) My 2WD RB5 is for-sale too :lol:

I suspect the zx5 you have is one of the first ones either a r version or a sport with the carbon chassis?? Worth a few quid

The optima mid is proberbly worth a few quid also

I'd try to find out what they are worth before racing them sell the lot then buy either a package off here or just go to your local model shop and set the ball rolling to a full race set up

Buds

I suspect the XX has some resale value too.

If its an early ZX-5, I'd suspect the XXX is actually the more competitive in its class. After all the XXX series has only just been replaced by the 22 and it still forms the basis of many Losi models.

A cheap, simple brushless solution would be an Ezrun system, which you can get off Ebay. They can be UK sourced, but expect to pay a lot more for it. Either the 9t or the 8.5t for the Losi (9t is cheaper and better for a beginner, but more limited overall) and the 8.5t or 5.5t for the Lazer.
However its worth noting that the real performance boost in the last few years has been in the form of Lipo batteries. Switching to these will make even older brushed systems fly like never before.

As for racing - we normally run 2wd and 4wd separately, but this depends on numbers. If we don't have that many racers we just run them all together. Clearly this means that running a 4wd does offer advantages when we run together, which is why Bury has an unusually high number of 4wd racers.

Hi,
Yes the zx5 has a carbon chassis, battery pack down one side, i will try to get some pictures of it this week and see if anyone can i.d it as I'm not sure which model it is.

xxx is ok, though I'm having diff problems with it, just waiting for a thrust bearing kit then i'll have all the parts for a complete diff rebuild. If there are any links to how to do this properly i'd love to see them!

The others tbh are just dust collectors lol not even sure they are complete.

Alan.

I have all the diff and thrust balls to do all your cars 50 times over so if you need any give me a shout

Buds

Regarding lipo, any good ones of these on ebay?

Your zx5 isn't worth much but it's a good starting point it's a zx5 lazer mk1 just saw it on your profile pic

I have an FS2 for sale :thumbsup: & and RB5

For Lipos the place to look at is Hobbyking.
Ebay is a minefield for lipos, some awesome bargains but also some potential fireballs as well.
Hobbyking sells all the bargain stuff of ebay, but without the dangerous crap.

That would be great, I have enough to do it once lol
I have the complete set
losa3078 diff screw, hardware & seal set
losa3070 tranny drive rings
losa3074 tranny diff gear
losa6951 carbide diff balls 3/32
losa3099 Losi Full Thrust Bearing Set


but have seen various methods of putting it together, with bevelled washers, without, spacers, blah blah. A guide would be really helpful!

Cheers
Alan

lol pm me with prices, though maybe i should be spending my money on electrics and radio first!

Cheers
Alan

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87877

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87880

I can probably put something together electrics wise for you too, Depending on how much your looking to spend? Drop me a PM?

Cars both look really smart but i think i will first spend money on running gear. Thanks for the links though!

Regarding lipo I have just looked on hobbyking website... 2s2p or 2s whats the difference and which ones do i want?

Cheers
Alan

You need the following:

2s (2cells The norm for 1/10)
The bigger the Mah the better that's your capacity.
The "C" rating is the punch the higher rating the more punch.

So something around, 4500mah - 5500mah 45-65C 2S

The hobbyking cells only seem to run to that power in 2s2p format, is this ok?

Cheers
Alan

Not a clue what the "2P" part means!
do you have a link?

It means 2 packs (saddle packs) which would be fine

Learn something everyday!

Is it the lazer diff your trying to build its easy do what the manual says

And your carbide balls you might aswell use ceramic balls are better but I'd spend your money else ware to start with

Buds

Its the losi diff, i did say earlier... thought the losa part numbers would have given that away :woot:

I dont have a manual for it but have looked on losi web site, the trouble is all variations seem to have a different diff :thumbdown:
Mine was originally a spec model but over the years has evolved into a mish mash model i think though the only part which matters is the fact has cvd's.

Again any help with this will go a long way!

Cheers
Alan

Link for the cells....

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html


Look pretty good! :thumbsup:

Alan

2S2P doesn't have to mean saddle - in fact most of our saddle packs are 2 single cells wired together ie 2S1P (2 in series, 1 parallel). My 6000 saddles for example are 2 separate 3.7V 6000mAh cells which in the car link in series to make a single 6000mAh 7.4V pack

2S2P means that there are in fact 4 cells, arranged 2 side by side, and 2 in series. In the case of the 6000mAh pack linked, that means its really made of 4 3.7V 3000mAh cells. These are wired in two parallel pairs (each in effect a 3.7V 6000mAh cell) then the pairs are wired in series to make a single 6000mAh 7.4V pack.

So what does this mean? Well strangely it shouldn't mean anything at all. Provided you have a decent charger, it all charges just the same, performs the same etc. Its just a different way of getting the same result.

In that case is stay well away from them because there is twice the chance of a cell dropping I don't beleave in hong kong batteries id rather walk into Je spares/Ross mods or order of a reputable shop and pay £50-£70 for some branded batteries and be able to send them back if they balls up

I don't do cheap or second hand electrics they just let you down and then it ends up costing 50 % more than it should.lrp sxx speedo is by far the best value and come with a bomb proof warranty 2 years of piece of mind motor??? Again it's personal choice just buy a main brand one and you can't go wrong tekin/lrp/reedy/Orion /speed passion to mention a few

I run a 2 1/2 year old lrp sxx
Orion lipos 45c (new)
Orion 6.5t motor (new)

I buy new batteries every year this way I get to sell my old batteries on here for £70 then spend £130 on new ones same with the motors really

Buds

SXX is the way like i said :thumbsup:

You could always start with these cells,25c 6000 and cheap

http://www.rossmod.co.uk/product/307...S_74v_25C_2147

Yes they are cheap but for a extra £20 you can get really good ones

Hi guys,

Bit of an update,...
I got myself new radio and receiver so no more interference and the car actually goes more than 10m away now!:thumbsup:
Got a new hobbywing esc and a 10.5t motor and an 8t delta wind both used from on here. :thumbsup:

I am hoping to come on Sunday and give it a try, what general advice can you offer to a novice?

I will bring the xxx, its the cr version.

Some questions about setting the car for racing... (I will also post this bit in the Losi forum so beware of repeated info)

How should I set my car? Its in pieces at the minute!

Thinking the 10.5 would be best motor for me?
I have all available shock springs, orange,red,black pistons, few different size spurs and pinions from 14t to 30t, some mini pin type tyres and some softer "fuzzies"

Also I have a gear diff and tranny case off a truck which is supposed to fit, is it worth building this up over the ball diff? and what oil should I use in it?

Hopefully see you all on Sunday!

Cheers
Alan

Definitely use the 10.5t. Delta winds are faster than the equivalent Wye (normal) winds so that 8t is more like a 5.5 or even 4.5t!
Schumacher yellow minipins or minispikes are the tyres to use - opinion is divided as to which works best. The surface will be a mix of grippy carpet and slippery polished floor.

Update, I have decided to bring my older xxx, the -cr was too much work to build and get ready. The xxx never been run since a rebuild so was good to go!

I have fitted the 10.5 and had a few test runs up the street and this is well quick enough! Probably too fast for me on a track in fact!

The ESC is a 120a hbbywing v2.1 my guess is I need to have some softer settings on hand!
It has the mod software on it atm and I have the pro programme box for it.
Any suggestions?

I will also look to the electrics forum.

Thanks
Alan