DB01 (DURGA) Setups
 

Please post setups here, try to keep it only to the posting of setups otherwise it'll be hard to find stuff.

Tamiya USA have a scan of the Durga setup sheet - http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/setup/58395su.pdf

My base setup - I have been using this on most surfaces, I never touch the rear end but sometimes tweak the front damper fluid or camber link depending on how much steering I need.

sosidge's base setup

Probably just being dense but which hole is which on the rear arm on the setup sheet?

1,2,3, aint to descriptive lol. Is 3 the inside or outside??? ???

3 is the outer.

Here is the setup i've run last few meetings.

Clicky Clicky

Tried to copy BJ4 close i could as a starter.
Did the rear block mod Jim was talking about.

Felt good at Bury few weeks ago but i think i could of done with some more steering on sunday at southport, any ideas? maybe the kit yellow inserts i used were to hard..?

you could run a 2mm spacer under the outer front ball joint, that makes it more agressive.

I haven't found a need for more rear squat, I have actualy gone for less, I added one thin shim under the 3Racing block, to try and reduce the amount of roll at the rear. I also have up limiters on the rear shocks, and limiters inside the front and rear shocks, so the car is forced to ride flatter than with the 501X shocks.

Is that under the castor block or the knuckle DCM??

I've got the kit 3mm under the stud on the castor block so you reckon another 2mm?

I noticed that compared to the BJ4 there should probs be a washer under the knuckle stud as well!

I might also go with a softer spring up front as well seeing as all i'll be running now is Lipo.
Bury i had Nimhs in, southport Lipo.

I milled the blocks down to make it rotate a bit more as i felt that was lacking first time out with it!

Shocks do have limiters for both up and down travel but just to shorten the shocks to proper length and stop the shafts hitting the outdrives.

yeah, 2mm on the caster block, it just made the front sharper, I am even running an anti-roll bar too, and my car isn't shabby.

cool, if it fits on i'll give it a shot at the weekend.

oh, it does, and it just makes the front end so much more responsive.

Guys, I have finished an editable pdf setup sheet for the Durga.

It can be downloaded from the Downloads page on my website:

http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/bender/Downloads.htm

Diect link: http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/bender/D...ga%20blank.pdf

can you not save a form that you have edited?

3mm i found was to much 2mm is almost spot on

You can't save PDF files unless you have the full version of Acrobat (not the Reader than most people use).

The way around this is to download "Cute PDF Writer" here:

http://www.cutepdf.com/download/CuteWriter.exe

This installs a virtual pdf printer on your pc - so when you fill in the Pdf in Adobe reader you then select print and choose the Cute PDF printer and it will save it to your PC.

Foxit Reader seems to let you save the PDF with your changes too and is a great alternative to Adobe Reader.

Are you guy's referring to an extra 2mm on top of the already kit recommended 3mm spacer. Or are you talking about using the 2mm spacer by itself? And if im not mistaken, the C5 parts are equal to the 2mm's that you blokes are talking about? Thanks.:lol:

Here is my current setup, ran it at South lakes regional and Southport on sunday.

Feels pretty much spot on for me, plenty of steering, good rear grip and feels nice and stable.

Rear shock mod done to mount shocks off the back, just flipped the tower round and drilled new holes in the back of the arm same distance from the outer pivot as the normal middle hole.

Clicky Clicky

Schuy extra long ball studs on the caster blocks to fit the 3mm of spacers bit better.

Why would you guys not run the TRF shocks? The kit shocks are garbage. Too much rebound and the pistons are ridiculous. Get yourselves atomic carbon front and rear towers and mount the trf shocks on the upper row of holes and voila...instantly better setup. With the stock towers the trf shocks are to long. If you guys really wanna make this baby run right you're gonna have to run these shocks, no questions asked. I club race this car at my local track for months now. Always do well and doing better every time I go out. It has even seen some outdoor action.

cant upload setup sheet due to file size...Not sure what to do any advice?

could someone give more info on the Rear-hub-mod That was spoken about in this thread? Pictures, link?

hellooo??

Sorry if this is too late...

I think they just meant to mount the shocks on the rear of the rear arms instead. If you have the high-traction arms (come with the DB-01R), there are already holes there. Otherwise, you need to drill new shock mount holes.

The camber link needs to be moved about too (I moved mine to the front of the tower).

http://www.modrc.com/cars/db01r/db01r_26.jpg

I still can't tell what this does on the track, but it made shock and spring access a lot easier (while the HT arms lasted, I didn't bother with the drilling mod on regular arms).

what is the "drilling mod"?

New question: I now use the blue springs on the front, but would like to have a spring a bit stiffer.

What spring should i use? I heared the asso-springs suit the shock, but what color asso-spring can be compared with the blue Tamiya-spring?

Or should I cut away a coil or two of the regular Tamiya spring (as I believe this makes the spring stiffer)?

the bleu one's of asso ludo are just a toutch harder than the bleu tamiya one's .

Oops. By "drilling mod" I meant drill 3 shock mounting holes on the back of each rear arm so you can mount the shocks there. I've never done it myself though, so don't know the details.

do you mean the B4-springs or the ones fot the B44 (or are those the same?)

Ludo, below the spring comparison :
SpringsterktesFrontRearTamiya RTamiya FrBrown2.8Black1.74blue 2.02blue 3.8Black3.2Green1.9yellow 1.84yellow 3.58Green3.5Silver2.1red 1.77red 3.17Silver3.85Gray2.33green 3.1Blue4.2Blue2.55black 2.9Gold2.75brown 2.8Red2.95

shit ge ziet er niets van :
Asso blue front = 4.2 Tamiya blue = 3.8 ( = approx Asso silver)

Rudi

merci rudy.

zijn volgens mij dezelvde ludo.de B4 of de B44

@ DCM,

why do you run Losi-shocks over the TRF-ones?

My current setup for Southport. Track is mostly high grip astroturf.
Car feels lively but planted and predictable.

How does moving the shocks to the rear of the shock tower a mod? And how does it feel on the track? Seems to me your putting to much weight on the rear wheels by doing this.

Does this really help?

All-new DB01 chassis locates heavy components such as battery and motor near the center for optimum weight distribution.
Race-proven and reliable 2-belt driven 4WD system is completely enclosed with ABS resin covers to prevent dirt and debris from interfering with drivetrain operations.
Chassis features integrated bulkheads, which reduces the number of parts and simplifies maintenance.
Tough ABS resin 4-wheel double wishbone suspension system features the same configuration as the TRF501X and provides a wide range of settings options.
Brand new buggy body with rear wing is made from lightweight polycarbonate material.
Wheels, tires, and Type 540 motor are included.
2-channel transmitter, ESC, running battery & charger are separately required.

set up links are not working
 

any reason no of the setup links are not working

I was wondering the same?

Looking for a setup for indoor typical slippy sports hall. Running aeration shocks.