Mardave VRXce Tips & Tricks
 

if you've got one post some tips, tricks & setup info in here

Been there and seen his write up. He's also posted on here for those that don't go were we go ;)


interesting, might just phone you then ;)

Great stuff was waiting for u to bell me i think the vids u andd gazza done are also brilliant helps newbies out. :thumbsup:

I have and it was an interesting conversation :thumbsup:

:blush:, must get around to doing another video soon

anyone got a setup yet for the new vrx ce car ?????????????

I set mine up as a normal v12 but on the front i used black rubber O rings instead of springs. And as in Pauls post leave the center washer out on the front plate for some camber.I found it better this way. and stiffen the rear a little with about 1mm droop fully loaded, batteries/shell ect. i found this works for me. oh and add a mardave sticker, it makes it faster, lol.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...r/IMAG0143.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...r/IMAG0142.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...r/IMAG0141.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...r/IMAG0140.jpg

So thats an almost solid front end. How does it feel? Does the flex in the chassis help?
Makes me wonder how effect front springs are.

its near solid but has a little give, i find it very responsive, the chassis does have more flex that the alloy one but not that much. give it a try and let me know now you get on.:thumbsup:

mardave
 

Run mine very hard on the front, with 52's as well, feels much better.

I've done a load of work this evening.
I'll run it as is for a heat then harden up the front and compare.
My only option is to pack out the spring under the e clip I think unless I put some under the stub axle and lower the front at the same time.

Didn't know you were going to be running the new chassis phil

I'm not but I've seen several people mention hard fronts now, some using o rings instead of springs.

I only ever run standard springs all round, moving to mediums if need be. But never hards. Pic of my new ce chassis: http://i.imgur.com/CegSL.jpg

That is very slick Karl - I love how it even matches with your keyboard and screen... :thumbsup::p

Done on purpose of course ;) Haha

Karl, did you change the ball cups on the damper tube or colour them in?

Your car looks s**t hot pal :thumbsup:

What setup are you running?

I changed them Aaron, these are tamiya trf ball cups. The red mardave ones take a bit of freeing up, so me being the lazy person that I am I just swapped them right over :lol:

Cheers mate :)

Speedo - Hobbywing 120A 1S (blinky)
Motor - HPI Flux pro 13.5
Servo - Futaba bls551
Tyres - LB50 Fronts
LB1 Rears

Other than that just standard everything :D

Is it a different tube? Not keen on the standard red

Can you assemble the front end to the new chassis without using the top plate?

i had played about with this kind of front end on my 1/12 stockcar about 2years back and it did have its good points and also its bad points but then again i had it set up diffrent to each side.

The holes are there but not countersunk on mine.

Same tube, just sanded as the red is pretty poor.

Carbon wrap for the win, lol.:thumbsup:

yes you can more wear from your foams

Tamworth National results for the 'CE' as posted on FB

Sat
1st James Carvell (CE)
2nd Richard Isherwood (CE)
3rd Chris Hardesty (CE)

Sunday
1st Karl Dransfield (CE)
2nd Richard Isherwood (CE)
3rd Chris Hardesty (CE)

Could we have the setup's posted please if known

Don't know what anyone else ran but this is what I ran:

Front
Tyres: Lb racing T50 @ 47mm on ballraced wheels. Additive 3/4 width
Springs: Medium
Wheelbase and track: standard
Toe: wheels parallel

Rear
Tyres: Lb racing T1 @ 52mm with diff. Additive full width
Springs: Soft
Damper oil: 60,000cst
Pod spacer: 2mm

Electrics
Motor: Team powers 13.5t
ESC: Hobbywing 120A 1S blinky
Rollout: 67mm/rev
Lipo: Orion 6400 90c
Servo: Futaba BLS551


Shell: Lotus Elise

Bumper
 

Which bumper is that your using and bumper mount?

Kind Regards
Dan.

The whole bumper assembly is from an Xray t3. This includes the bumper base plate, body posts, top plate and foam. All you need to do is drill 2 holes in the front of the chassis and it's a perfect fit :)
Hope this helps.

Karl

Motor position
 

Hey Karl,.

is thier any reason to running the motor that way round?

Cheers
Dan

My setup from Tamworth !

Front
Tyres: Jap 44's @ 47mm on ballraced wheels. Additive 1/2 width
Springs: Medium
Wheelbase and track: standard
Toe: wheels parallel

Rear
Tyres: Pink med @ 50mm with diff. Additive full width
Springs: Soft
Damper oil: 50,000cst
Pod spacer: 1mm

Electrics
Motor: Team powers 13.5t
ESC: Fusion
Rollout: 69mm/rev (way over geared !)
Lipo: Orion 6400 90c
Servo: Futaba S9550


Shell: Lotus Elise

Nope, none whatsoever. It just makes the wiring easier with where I have the speedo! :)

Karl

Karl, is this the car and set up you where racing down at tamworth...I was sitting not to far from you, 2 seats to the right and opp side of the table, next to Big Gary....Paul

only asking as i am thinking about getting my own and racing daves for a while, cheers mate

Hi mate. At Tamworth I was running the standard CE kit with fibreglass chassis as this was the only one which was legal at the time. Now the carbon chassis is legal I am running that from now on. But the fibreglass chassis is an excellent cheap starting point.

Karl

Karl, is your hobbywing esc ok for mardave nationals. cheers I have a tekin but think it will be classed as been to expensive...

As the rules are, there is no price limit on speed controllers. So yes, your Tekin is ok for nationals. The Hobbywing is a safe bet too though as it is one of the cheapest speedos available.

Hello, Im not trying to upset anybody but.....
Brushless, Lipo and Supadave ?
Why, ive seen a lot of them and they are not much better round a track than a G28 and a G2.
I inderstand the brushless last forever but why go there as there is no advantage unless your an awsome driver and wouldnt need that anyway.
Sorry for the input but its an obsersavation

You're probably right in that a very well prepared G2 motor in tip-top condition could just about compete with a 13.5 Blinky. The problem is that not everyone has the skills or knowhow to prepare a G2 properly and even then they don't perform at that level for very long. A brushless on the other hand will keep its level of performance and it won't be very long before the number of G2's bought to stay competitive far exceeds the cost of the single brushless...