Nightmare outing with 210
 

Ran my 210 at Chadderton, it was a nightmare, rear end was very loose, on all corners it wanted to swop ends. Mid corners the car was drifting, it was like driving on polished floor ! Very 'slidey' and if I pushed it would break away.

What could cause this ? Tried many different setups, had brand new mini pins all round. Various people looked at the car but couldn't see anything obvious.

The 210's there were running very different setups, I as many others started on the kit setup but it was a nightmare.

Could the diff cause this ? I thought I'd sorted the diff with the new circlip, but I read a post on here re oils on the parts contaminating the diff ? It feels good and smooth ?

If the setup looks ok & tyres are new, what else could I look at, speedo was on minimum punch, even tried a new sensor lead (yes I was clutching at straws) !

This sounds very dissimilar to my experience... I thought the car was very well planted and safe to drive...

Guess you need to go through the hub, caster, toe inserts etc and basic setup to find out as a starter for ten..

Are there any stetups available for a similar surface on the durango website?

Likewise, mine went well at coventry today.

Mine has been planted out of the box as many people will testify, sounds as though there may be something binding or something

Don't think I saw you're 210 going today then, the ones that I watched going round looked very very planted.

Yep mine was amazing at stotfold today, fully planted, no griproll & it just handled everything i threw at it :)
What surface were you racing on Andy?

my 210 was great today at chadderton. I was doing my own thing with setup, but found it wasnt far from Damians anyway. Won the C with it. felt great, i could push when i needed to, Only issue i had was with my brakes being abit harsh at the bottom of the straight but i was controlling that with my thumb. Id be happy to pass over my setup if you want a look

Surface is indoor sports hall - multi use surface, apparently it's not dissimilar to Worksop ?

Tried 3 degree / 1.5 squat (kit setup)
Tried 4 degree on the rear / 1.5 squat
Tried going to 4 degree / 3 squat

Kit pistons with 27.5 oil all round starting point.
Tried softening oils - rear to 20
Tried green rear springs
Tried going up oils on front to 35
Ended up back at 27.5 all round by end of day !!!

(all using kit pistons)

Tried long and short links on rear too
Tried tightening diff, as it felt like it could be slipping
Tried backing off the slipper - a lot by the end, it was slipping loads in my final....

Tried brand new mini pins all round
Tried brand new mini spikes all round

All in all I'm a bit lost, car felt great on the bench, much better to me than lots of cars going better !!

One rear wheel was a bit black inside from catching the hub, but didnt look major.

Cool, if you could post or PM it, that would help.
We're you running any additional weight in the car ?

We're you running car too low , if it was it would do what your saying only ran mine once last week but I found the handling was much improved after raising the ride height, it made quite a difference,

There are 3 worksop setups on the durango website
http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...sop_Indoors_GB
Hope that helps set you in the right direction :)

No, tried this too !
If anything I was running it maybe a little higher than others. Rear driveshafts were level.

Had a look over those earlier, only thing that caught my eye is the steering link (from he servo, the bar with 3 holes)

I had my steering lnks in the from most hole, most setups use centre, or maybe back. Can't see it making the car feel like its sliding about on ice though !!

this sounds like something more than just small tweeks ie shocks etc. if the car is spinning up and feels like sliding out all the time, surely its transmission problem?

Add toe in front and rear, go to max on rear, and about 2' front. Reduce a little of your loose steering.

Kit tie rod lengths were parallel to toe out, which would make the car a handfull.

are you perhaps running mid motor on a low traction track?

Been running mine on polished wood the grip this car generates is untrue. Been runing mine rear 4 gear but think mid 3 would work well.

ive built mine 3 gear mid as we race on high traction carpet. if the surface had less traction i think it would be a good idea to go rear motor as the rear end would act like he is talking about in the original post. just a thought

My 210 is fantastic, got me into trouble a few times as it just begs for more :o Our club is carpet and polish, came 4th in the A.

The 210 feels more like a race car, rather than expensive 'mobile bling' like my last drive.

Can't wait to do it all again next week with mini pins on the front for that bit more grip in the corners :thumbsup:

agreed, doesn't sound like there is mouch else to try!!

Hi Andy, I will put two posts up on the Durango website tommorrow for both spikes and pins at Chadderton.

One thing I learned today was that the car really reacts to set up changes.

Initially running on spikes I had a really locked in rear and push on understeer on the front, this made the car really safe to drive but lacked a bit of positivity.

I changed to 20 degree castor, 3.5 rear toe in and 6mm spacers under the rear inner ballstud and the steering ackeman link in the middle, this gave a more positive safe car,

I then changed to new pins for two heats and the final, I ran this on 25 degree castor, 3.5 rear toe in, no spacers under the rear ballstud and the steering ackerman link on the rear to cut the steering down, this gave a really positive car with a little more of a loose rear if you pushed on the throttle. The car was faster overall with this set up but it took more skill and caution on the throttle.

Overall I was pleased how it went today at Chadderton.

Try running some well used pins... brand new ones are usually crap for me on a polished floor..

I don't think this issue was just with the 210, My MCS was all over the place

Andy, try moving the steering link to the back, you'll be suprised at how much difference that makes. With it at the front the car wants to turn up itself and could be your problem?

Reading everything, I am wondering about the steering & link. It's the one thing I didn't try changing !
Could the combo of new pins and the link in the front hole make the car feel so loose ?
Are people limiting the steering, as the car has crazy lock ?

nothing new there :lol:

Hi Andy, I don't think you need to limit the lock and new or used pins wouldn't have much effect as I ran brand new ones and now they look pretty worn!

If you place the steering link in the rear hole on the steering brace, give the car the max castor at the front end and take all the washers out of the rear link this will make the car a lot calmer.

Try starting with that but you really need to run that set up at Chadderton again because running at Batley on a slippier floor will not be a true comparison.

I did not change the wheel base yesterday but I know Coatsey did, this could be another thing to try, I am sure Steve Pierce with the Cougar said he was running short wheelbase and that made it more stable?

The more running we do the more set ups we will perfect!

I gave mine a quick blast round Cov's astro track yesterday during the gap between heats and finals and it was so nice to drive.

The 7.5 (geared on 25t) felt a little sluggish down the straight so I'm thinking a 6.5 is needed round there, but round the corners and over the bumps it was really good. I had it setup to Adam's Worksop settings as I ran it indoors earlier in the week and it was really good even on yellow mini pins on astro lol

Now just waiting for my shell to come back from paint and I'll be running it a lot more :D

It felt a lot nicer to drive than my 4wd did lol, but that purely down to being on the wrong tyres and being too tight to buy more after leaving the rest at home

Damo.

What's the best place to start with the pistons ?
Drilled / Kit etc?

I ran kit pistons in mine (opposite way around to the manual) and the damping on my car felt nice on the bench, but I noticed others seemed to run them very heavily damped so the rear didn't rebound much - seemed wrong to me, but maybe that's right for this car ?

Hi Andy, no they were in my opinion wrong, too stiffly set up.

I had the kit, 6 hole, 1.3mm pistons in all round, 30wt Losi in the rear and 37.5wt Losi in the front, basically what my X6 used to run!

I had the dark blue springs on the rear and I had Losi Black BB springs (4.1 rating) on the front.

The front still feels a bit soft BUT it went over the mat section in the middle of the track well.

Ohh it was you running without the shell in the break!

Brave :D

where are you running? MM4? whats the track like? I was just thinking .. when in the world would I use the black losi springs..

My car was set up as mid motor 4 gear, we use the Losi black front springs quite a bit on the high grip tracks we race on, astro etc. I used them this summer on my 410 and my X6.

The track yesterday was a mix of rubberised gym floor and grippy carpet so you don't want the front end too soft or else it will grip roll.

I drove mine at Southport this weekend and loved the balanced feel to the car.

In later heats, I had a few issues. Besides my diff packing up (I'm putting that down to my crap build before all the good Oople posts on the subject) my drive shaft popped out after a minor shunt. It had gouged a channel out of the plastic cover to the outdrive. Has anyone else had this problem?

hopefully my shell will be back from paint tonight or tomorrow. I just wanted to drive the dam thing lol. If they had released the shells already I would of just blasted 1 with a single colour like most people and sent another to paint.