210 diff help!!
 

ok, im on borderline to throwing the car through the window!!
ive followed peoples advice on diff building with the thrust the correct way, and the clip the flat side to the screw etc.
and it still isnt happening....
im out of ideas, and getting very frustrated!!

What's happening exactly?

Whats happening to it? does the clip keep coming out?
The flat bit should be away from the screw, so when you put it in the rounded side will go in first

Flat side of the circlip should be away from the thrust race, not close to it.

the clip is in, locked into the outdrive.
the diff works, but its very tight. not only that but its slipping.
and i cant tighten all the way without it stripping

How about the nut retainer, is it fully into the outdrive? mine didn't go straight in but with a gentle tap it soon slid straight in, also are you using kit balls or ceramic?

when the diff is tight, seems to be all the way in.
using kit balls :confused:
think its something on the thrust side

Hmmm that's a puzzler :confused:
Stupid question as you probably have but have you put the shim in betwen the bearings?

[email protected]

T: +44 (0)1530 412352

Contact TD

G

yeah, gone through it 4 or 5 times. might be an error in the part
will email the support team
cheers guys

No probs, hope you get it sorted

1 thing i did do was compress the spring a few times with pliers before i fitted it, just to work it in a bit

a lot of previous manuals I've followed say to compress the spring. I was quite surprised not to see this step in the 210's manual so I didn't compress it

I did it out of habit just like i compressed the slipper spring as well :), like you say the manual didn't mention it but then the manual didn't mention anything about setting the diff up :thumbdown:, for a newbie this must have been very confusing & not everyone has access to this great forum for advice, i have asked durango to include it in the online manual but have not heard back from them about it

Adam said on another post that that they'll be doing some things in their tips section

Getting the clip inside is a problem in itself. It has been proven many times in the past that using the right tool for the right job makes the difference between failing and succeeding.

So I tried to get a hold of circlip pliers with beaks/pins small enough to fit inside the holes. Guess what? I've been two four or five stores, been riding on me bicycle for two hours, without result! :confused: I tried a DIY shop first, which had circlip pliers, but too large. Then I went to a few specialist stores, and they all didn't have this size available, all for larger circlips, even if they did have the same size of circlip available that's used in the diff!

What's next? Well, I was directed to Fabory, but to buy a tool of 20+ euros for a single circlip seems a little steep for me (that's the lowest price they'll sell it for at Fabory, if they even have it). Therefor, I bought some cheap-o pliers with small, round beaks, and the Dremel will hopefully do the rest. :thumbsup:

When i had the SX i used to use long nosed tweezers and they worked a treat. Should be ok on this aswell. Will let you know when my kit turns up :yawn:

Similar to that, I bought a small nail scissors and dremeled the ends slightly to fit the clip

Problem already solved :thumbsup: Here it is:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...DSC06538-2.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...DSC06539-2.jpg

This mod took... 5 minutes? First time I've butchered a tool, but the result is actually better than I expected. 4.95 euros well spent! :D

That's fair enough Mikey but i still think it should be in the manual as not everyone will look on the web or even be able to get on the web
Just my opinion & they dont have to take it if they dont want to

Raise it with Durango - [email protected] ?

I did & got no response
Anyway i better stop derailing Chris's thread
Hope you got it sorted Chris

I had EXACTLY the same diff problem.

You can't get your diff right because the clip is buggered, as you tighten the diff the clip is moving, it's not being retained in the groove as it should.

You could try the 'spread' tip that Adam posted, i.e trying to open the clip back up once it's in position.

IMO the clip is a bit crap, mine was replaced with a Schumacher clip and the diff is like night and day now, I think the Schumacher clips must be stronger ?

Good luck.

I finished building my diff a few hours back, with the 'custom' pliers I posted. I also read through all the advice posted in the various topics (including that of Adam Skelding), and my diff feels both silky smooth and tight enough not to slip :)

I did have one small 'issue', which is that the nut is not very deep into the outdrive. I had a good look at it, and though I haven't made the upper links yet, it seems I can drive the car with a camber angle up to -5 degrees (or even slightly more) without having the driveshaft touch the retaining nut. So not really a problem actually, even though the retaining nut is further inside the outdrive on TD's release pictures.

I've not run my car yet but I have built it and I used a set of hudy's snap ring pliers to put the cir clip in the diff and they worked a treat.

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...&kategoria=130

whats the part number of the c clip?

No idea on part no.
Apparently it's the clip from the couger diff, anyone know the no. ?

The exploded view on the schumacher site shows the clip to be part number U2573
Looks like you get 3 clips for £5.50 + some other stuff which i guess you could give to someone with a cougar :)

just rebuilt the diff. now it feels very tight and not slipping.
but when i put the car together the car stops when it turns or becomes very difficult to turn?
and when i slacken the diff off it slips


i think a whole new diff is needed, i think this one is knackerd

£5.50 for circlips!! Jesus Christ take the original to any enginerng firm / supplyer, you will get 100 of em!

Completly agree but they are still £2 cheaper than the durango ones!! although you get 4 from durango!!!

I've had no problem, but could this be that the black hard coating is thicker in the rebate, so some outdrives, and the circlip is not getting the surface area to press against ?

Similar problem with some of the 410 wishbone hangers when the inserts were tight?

Maybe give the groove a sctach out with a dentist type pick?

My guess would be that you have cut the little ears/lugs of the nut holder that you need to be in place to stop it slipping.

then its just going to spin when you tighten it, takes away the point of having them

> Link to Step 13/Bag D of my DEX210 Building Thread. <

I hope this clears things up a bit. I won't be testing my diff unfortunately, but I hope the pictures clear up what should be done, in combination with the information from the manual, advice that Adam Skelding posted, suggestions from Oople members and my attempts to use common sense during the build :)

The result is a diff that won't slip, can be tightened further than it is right now, feels smoother than many other diffs I've built and there's enough room for the driveshafts to go in on both sides and move freely!

PS: Link to full build thread.

ive officially given up on this diff, ive followed everyones advice and spent the last 4 mornings before work trying to get it right.
and can only assume theres something damaged now due to it being taken apart so many times.
may wait for the spare parts, if durango cant get a move on and sort that out. then its going on oople trader section :bored: because im really fed up!

I'm sorry to hear that :( Are you using circlip pliers and are you sure the circlip isn't damaged?

I'm sure there are many people willing to help you out on this, perhaps a member here can look at it for you? (I can offer you to look at it, but I don't live in the UK). If you do feel you want to sell it, I'm sure there are also enough people willing to buy it from you, even if the diff has issues.

Sorry Gainsy, but you did get a response which you replied to again.

I'm sorry if this sounds repetitive, but if you have a particular issue with your kit please contact us direct at [email protected]
Where as previous customers have found we offer direct one-to-one service and try to sort out your individual problem.
On forums we only try to offer hints, tips and other 'general' advice.

If you don't contact us, we can't help you... It really is that simple.

:thumbsup:

Post #9
Post #21

Contact TD