X4TE Setup Thread
 

Guys,

Attached below is my setup used for Worksop on Sunday.

This will pretty much be my base setup for the majority of tracks I go to, so figured I would get it up asap.

Any questions please ask away, I will do my best to reply!

Cheers

Si

P.S When the Editable sheet is finished you are more than welcome to transfer this onto it :thumbsup:

Mine was pretty similar.

http://me-or.com/media/ansmann/rob-j...p-09.10.11.pdf

Shocks are different and slightly different rear geometry. Harder rear spring than mine to. Bigger holes and stiffer oil, does that increase or decrease pack? Time to re-build my other set of big bores and try it for myself.

How much of a difference does the forward cab bodyshell make over the standard one Simon?

What is the benefit of cutting the top deck?

Also, seen reference to flipping the wishbones before, what does it mean and what benefits are there from doing it?

Many thanks

cuting the top deck will increase the flex in the chassis, giving more grip and making the car more forgiving to drive.

Flipping the wishbones enables you to mount the shocks on the front of the tower instead of the kit setting at the back. Most other 4wd cars are have the rear shocks mounted on the front of the wishbone and it seems to help X4TE not sit down under power. It also shorterns the wheelbase to I think.

I did it on sunday, after watching simon Moss's car going round who already had the shocks mounted on the front of the rear tower. I was struggleing to get car the car to turn in under power and so was losing time through the top corner and also into the chicane section after the big jump, after I flipped the rear shocks to the front of the rear tower it made the car have more steering through fast corners, so the top end of the straight I didn't need to back off as much and I could easily power the car round the long sweeper into the chicane section. I also personally found that the car had more rotation off power and easier to drive through hair pins. Suffice to say in round 3 my fastest lap was a 24.4, in round 4 after the change I was doing mid 23's, and that is without any other set-up changes. It definatly worked for me at woksop on sunday anyways. :thumbsup:

I'm going to sound really stupid now, do I reverse the wishbones on the existing side of the car or put the right on left etc facing in reverse?

Yes you swap left to right and have the holes that you mount the shock to facing forward, If you flipped it over then the swoop (gull wing?) would be upside down. So it wants to llok like when mounted normally but having the holes on the front. Also you want to keep the hubs in the same orientation as before, so don't just swap the hole lot just swap the wishbones around.

I think that explains it correctly :thumbsup:

Ignore last stupid comment I'd misread the set up sheet:confused:

I'm prob close to that too except for the shocks and lack of carbon (x4pro) lol..

might try the washers to give 2mm anti squat, see how that goes.
i've ran flipped rear all summer on all surfaces, i just prefer it, keep its bum off the floor.

Losi Springs
 

As an alternative to the schumacher springs the springs from the 22 can be used.

I would start with orange (3.0) rear and black (4.1) front.

Hope this helps

Tried Simons complete setup last night at Taplow and have to say it was very good, the only thing I'll look at is swapping the springs for Losi. The Schumacher springs seem really soft in comparison and are shorter so the collars are wound down loads to get the correct ride height, with the Losi springs they are not as compressed when the car is on the bench. I'm not sure how this would make the car react on the track so I'll try both at Stotfold on Sunday.

Cheers for the help Simon :thumbsup:

I am using losi springs to.straight fit and a good price :-)

Sorry about the delay guys. Will try and answer a few questions!

Top deck - yes it will allow more rear end flex and make the car slightly easier to drive. The reason i have done this is the car is too rigid at the back, and on low grip surfaces was struggling for forward traction and side bite and this seems to help.

Anti-Squat - car comes with 0 degrees i think, but its not as simple as adding washers. You will have to dremel away the sides of the gearbox to allow the wishbones to travel freely up and down. If you dont, when you put 2mm underneath the front bar the will bind and not drop.

Rear Shocks on the front - all you have to do is flip the wishbones and then space the shocks far enough forward on the mount to allow them to be upright. This will work without any other modifications. I did last night modify rear a little after talking to Danny and Stu and have now mounted the rear mount on the front of the bracket, thus decreasing the distance you have space the shocks forward. It involves removing the bottom of the shock mount up to the first cross bar join and then screwing right through the plastic brace and bolting on fromm theother side. You will however need to flatten the angle on the plastic bracket, otherwise the shock tower will have a slight angle.

Think that covers the main points.

I ran at Stotfold today and again the car was quick on the pace. I only made a few alterations which i will try and get up later!

Si

Hello Simon ...
nice to have you on the same car again :)

here is my setup from the weekend. make the TQ and win on challenging race in Germany.

I tried also with flipped rear arms and shocks in front but on carpet there was the problem that in that configuration I could not use the rear anti rollbars and so the car does the dog ( lifting rear inner tire) on hard cornering :woot::thumbsup: looked funny. so i swichted back to the usual confirugaration.
Also tried your sterring confirugaration with the short sterringlinks. this gave the car way to sterring on carpet, reaction are to fast and to hard to drive... with the long sterringlinks to have to dremel a bit on the diffhousing and ballstud to have full sterring but it's easier to drive.

thanks for your input and hope to see you at a EOS race in Belgium or Germany ?
kind regards from Luxembourg
Tom

:thumbdown:my pdf is quite to big ...someone a idea to put it online ?
thx

If you can e-mail it to me I can stick it on my webspace if you like. :thumbsup:

Tbone setup <- This is a link! ;)

thx guys :)

How do i attach a pdf setup sheet to this?

Its currently 1.4meg and i dont know how to shrink it or whatever else i'd need to do.

Ta

Pm Arn0 and he will upload to the setup section on petit rc. :thumbsup:

Thanks to Arnaud for the advice

Should be attahced now.

Thanks

Danny

Hello guys!

Let me introduce myself.
I'm Szimi from Hungary - the local Ansmann distributor. Sorry for my English :cry:

Some more info..
Our Facebook pages:
http://www.facebook.com/RCRulez.hu
http://www.facebook.com/RCRRacingTeam

Our race course:
http://www.facebook.com/RCRRCProfRing
http://youtu.be/nvl8FWLFl6Y

Some more videos in our YouTube channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/RCRulez2010#p/u

We are using Blizzards, X4 Pros and X4TEs in my racing team - but the official tech support from AR is more than poor :bored:

I found a lot of very useful tricks in this forum but I still have some questions:
- What does "cutting the top deck" mean in the practice. Could you send me a picture about it? (this is a relatively expensive part - 125001083 - so it is quite risky to cut physically :confused:)
- We have a common problem with the X4TE's steering rack (ackermann) and the steering blocks (125000905 and 125000990). These have very big backlash by default. We applied a workaround using the block carrier (12500043 - metal barrel) from X2C, but I think this is not the best solution. Did you experience the same problem?
- Also we have a common problem with the X4TE's shocks. In all of our cars the bottom of the shocks leak. It seems the 8x1 O ring in the bottom is faulty. Any experience about it?

Sorry for the silly questions :cry:

Thanks in a advance

Szimi

Hope this picture helps. Its what both Si and I have done.

Thanks

Danny

Hi there, there is a picture in the general section on here from Danny showing how the rear top deck is cut to aid flex. I've also replaced the standard plastic side pods (x4te) with lexan to give a little more too. I am now using the Rudebits brass t-piece at the back with a pair of brass lipo trays, the car is really stable like this and really easy to drive. :thumbsup:

How many of you guys are running the metal gear set from the caster car?

Setups from the Weekend at the players. Both the cars were really good.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...t=83031&page=3

My current set ups for anyone on bumpy dirt track.
I'm testing the 4wd rear arm on the rear of the 2wd (details to come) but very happy with first test.

Dear,

I would like a setup for astro with mini spike 2.
The track is medium size, and bumpy.
Base of T4 with Big bore, with option i need to buy?

Ok, thanks a lot.
Did you have it in PDF, becaus I don't arrived to see the comment.
I don't have the losi spring, with one from Ansmann did you used?

Was it with the big from Ansmann?

Witch oil did you use on the Big bore with the Team C piston.
Witch oil did you use on the grear diff fron and rear.

It's for astro setup with nice gripp, bumpy.

I need some help beacause i will not have time to do some test befor my 1st race with the T4.