Talent Day Sponsorship.
 

Hello,

I thought I would clarify a few things.
As I said at the Talent days, I was after a full range of quality drivers, from club drivers to National drivers.
The idea behind this is so I get a full range of set up advise and if there any quality issues.
If I ask Simon Moss what breaks on his car he would say a great deal but if I ask a club driver he would say something different.
I know we have had issues with the 2wd front kick up plate and we have changed it over the months to make it stronger.
I on the other hand have never broke one.
So this is the reason I want the full range of drivers on board to help out with the brand.
All I ask is please let me know of any issues with anything and hopefully we can all help make this brand a better brand and ride the wave and all get better:thumbsup:

big thanks for helping me out yesterday with the x4 front driveshaft :thumbsup:
then drove calmer in the final and managed 11 laps :blush:


X4 pro :

1. the 3 screws that hold the shock tower holder, the 1 on its own that take the brunt of it needs to be longer, ignore the manual go 3mm poss even 5mm longer on what the manual says.
2. I have used a tamiya drive pin in the center rear shaft because it goes right to the edge of the cvd, the ansmann one allowed too much movement.

X2C/Xpro/madrat/mad monkey

1. front kick up
2. Upper Susp. Arm Holder Front, we braced it which works to a certain extent.
3. use a longer ball stud with a nut on the front & rear hubs, they dont tend to break as often.
4. can not tighten the wheels as they will bind.
5. X2C/monkey - rear shock tower, myself & rob have fitted perspex towers (jolly partz) to the front of the tower holder then made a spacer to secure the gearbox to the holder, we have found these to work really well.

diff balls in all cases need changing

hope these help. :D

The only things I think that need changing on the x2c are the idler gears,to nylon instead of plastic. The thrust race in the diff could be better and as has been said previous,the front wheels do bind when tightened. Other than that im more than happy with it.:thumbsup:

I’ve been driving the X2C now for a few months now after getting fed up with touring cars,
The things I’ve found since driving the car,
Broke two shock towers in one night however iv not broke one since.
The diff could be better with the following
Carbide balls, better thrust race and an allen key bolt instead of the Phillips one.
Ball cups are a little soft, not a huge problem really.
Motor mount is a little soft and a bit of a pain to get to the lower motor bolt.
But overall I am really impressed with the car it’s very strong for the most part, easy to drive and a couple of faster drivers have driven it and say the balance is very good, oh and an added bonus, spares are cheap as chips:thumbsup:


stumpy

The screw heads are a bit too soft the suspension wasnt that great and the diff supplied with it was stiff and had a rounded Phillips screw in it but the main problem for the mad rat is the idler wasn't that strong and at the first sign if any stress gave up. But keep up the good work and keep the costs affordable as thats what attracted me to the brand

Problems i've encountered with the Mad-rat - i know this may be misread as though i'm complaining, but it's simply constructive critisism from my own finding from use in race conditions.

1) i've broken 2 kickplates & 1 castle (ripping out the screw threads) in front end smashes (not at the same time) usually from landings from jumps when the car lands nose 1st.

2) the kit shocks are US, the tops kept popping off on landings or simply when the car changed direction, thus p***ing oil all over the place - changed them to the Ansmann (Fastrax also do the same ones) metal bodied shocks & fitted the kit internals so effectively i've got metal bodied kit shocks - huge improvement in both performance & longevity although you do need a 2mm spacer to stand-off the shock at the top. Would recommend changing the plastic shock bodies to metal parts.

3) the plastic hinge-pin holder at the back is very easy to break. Replaced this with the metal hop-up, however this has caused 2 problems. firstly you have to hack at the rear of the chassis to get it to fit flush, plus you have to shave the t-plate as the rear holes have a riser on them so the metal carrier doesn't sit flush otherwise & secondly i'm going through t-plates at silly rates because the holes that hold the rear pin holder / bottom of the motor guard on stretch & eventually work their way out .. i even managed to rip the holes out on the carbon t-plate.

4) the kit screws are very poor & the heads strip or round-off easily

5) the kit rear hubs are prone to failure, as the ball-stud gets ripped out of the thread

6) the c-hubs at the front, the ball studs can pull through - replacing the stud with a longer one that can bolt behind the stud stops this.

7) the front castle would be better if the lugs were about 2mm higher or a spacer was included in the kit so the top arms sit level with the wishbones.

8) there is nowhere to fit ant-roll bars on the car if so desired & there are none as an option.

9) e-clips should be banned, they are the work of the devil!! maybe grub-screws & pins with 1 flat side at the ends would be better to hold the front hinge pins on & to secure the axles? Plus this would make replacing a front wishbone faster if you are not messing with e-clips

10) the front body pin is a right pain in the backside to put into the hole on the post. would recommend either moving the stud completely so it's not sitting between the shock tower posts or having a front facing hole to thread a pin through. Perhaps a post that screws in & has several options for mounting places would be an idea, plus it's not a part that's needed on the Macnum & Hot-rod so could be omitted.

11) it may be better if the rear wing was held on with screws (like the one on the 4WD car) rather than r-clip body pins. I've lost one of the angled spacers before now when a pin flew out & to replace these spacers it means you need to buy a complete wing mount set!

12) there is a lot of slop in the plastic hubs which can make setting the camber tricky.. i've tried to set the camber at 2 degree's, once set i can lift the front of the car & drop it down again & the camber angle has changed - usually with different results on either side. Maybe fitting top-hats to the hubs could solve this problem, although i've not yet tried it myself.

13) the front axles are too wide, this means the car will not fit in the scrutineering box at BRCA regulation events thus does not complt with the BRCA rules without modification to the axles. the wheel track is fine, it's just the axles stick out a tad too far.. the best plan i've found / heard of is to cut the axle down with a dremel & use a narrow hex & where possible stick to zero offset wheels at the front.

14) when fitting an ariel tube / receiver, it's tricky to get the ariel wire to poke through the hole.. perhaps a c-shaped mount (i.e round with a slit in one side) would be better. It's only a small niggle but worth pointing out as many club racers often only have 1 receiver that has to go in 2 cars & needs to be swapped regularly.

Hope this helps :)

Mad Monkey 2 months old
 

1 Problems with front castle, ive done two now completly snapping and have upgradeD to alloy.

2) Front stock shocks, tops pull off and cover car in oil, and rear stock lower seals fail so upgraded to ansmann alloy type

3) Stop/push bearing assy disinitigrated

4) Idler gears mashed so upgraded to kevlar

5) rear outer cv universal joint pin clasp ring spin and outer pin falls out resulting in complete loss of drive:thumbdown:

otherwise extremly happy once this has been rectified, but saying that, the monkey is very good value and cheap TO BUY:thumbsup:

HOWEVER.... BUY CHEAP...BUY TWICE LOL:confused:

hi stu, when do we get the singed form back?
thanks

If you have signed forms and sent them off, i dont think you will get them back. Just email Stu or Shaun to confirm sponsorship.

Seems strange reading this thread of all the problems you guys are having??

Ive been running all 3 cars now for around 3 weeks and can honestly say i havent had too many problems. Ive broken 1 ball stud i think, and thats about it. Now thats not because i crash less hard than you guys (trust me, ask Stu lol)' i just dont seem to have had the issues.

Its great that have a really strong team of people who are commited to developing the quality of the products and brand, and im sure Stu is thankful of the feedback we are getting!

There are some new development parts on the way which im sure everyone willmbe excited about. Ansmann are already commited to developing all the off road cars and from communiction from Shaun, have never seemed more enthusiastic!

Myself, Danny and Stu are working on getting setups etc up onto oople for you guys to use as starting points yourselves. Im already in talks with some of my sponsors around developing a full piston range, so watch this space!

As for my initial thoughts on the cars, i must say im more than impressed at the pace we have straight out of the box. Both mine and Dannys cars were standard and apart from a little dremeling remained that way all day. We did some different things on Stu's car which gave us some great information moving forward. If you would of offered me tq'in 1 round and being 10 secs away from tq'in another at Worksop i would of definately taken that!

Keep the constructive feedbacl coming guys!

Si

Ive only broke one thing on my x2c and that was a rear hub when my six year old son decided to put the wooden barrier across the end of the straight at rhr one Wednesday night!!!!:woot:

Other than that I would say its as tough as any other 2wd out there.

x 1 on that

From the comments above I can see that most issues people have had have either been addressed, or can be tweaked for little or no money, i.e. Hubs breaking can be solved by putting a longer threaded ballstud in and having a nut on the back. for Other issues there is a hop-up availiable that will solve it i.e. shock tops and idler gears.

If you look at the amount of stuff that has come out already especially for the 2wd cars ansmann and the other companies involved are definatly working hard to fix issues. :thumbsup:

At this rate we will soon have cars that we can lose it at the end of the straight and cause more damage to the wall that you crash into than the chassis. :lol:

Been racing Ansmann cars for over a year now and I really enjoy racing them. Looking forward to continuing with them for years to come :thumbsup:

Robbie - it would be great if you could put some of these tips in the Build Tips threads, as you have been running the cars for quite a while now. Make it far easier for people to find solutions to common issues. :thumbsup:

wouldn't it be better & more efficient for Stu or Shaun to send email out to the confirmed drivers? all it would take would be 1 email CC'ed to all the drivers on the team list.

Or another idea, perhaps it may be an idea to set up a hidden / password protected page, section or message board on www.ar-uk.com or the AR team blog & send out an invite to all the team drivers so the drivers can share set-ups, design problems, results, suggestions etc? I know Eric set up an Ansmann UK page on facebook, but really as a team we need something where the team can interact with each other.

Ermm whats wrong with this forum for interacting with each other? I think the ansmann is the busiest forum of all the manufacturers ones on here. Plus we are not only sharing information with other team drivers we are sharing with anyone who has an interest in ansmann products.

One thing I like about forums is that you get to read what other people are finding with their cars as they go along, back in the old days it was word of mouth, or you had to trust the magazines to get information at the chassis you were thinking of buying (and believe me I have brought a few cars off the back of magazine reviews and they have not been as good as the reviewer has made out)

Support for products is good through the forums to, especially here and Rc-tech where you have people who are working for the company or have extensive knowledge of a certain product and can guive you near instant feedback and soloutions.

I think the oople forum is perfect for our team, we shouldn't be hiding stuff away behind locked doors, we want to be getting the info out there and helping each other and future members of the team to do well with their products :thumbsup:

keeping them open is better for every one robbiejuk is right:thumbsup:
Attachment 29122

Hi Stu, At the Ifmars I told Steven (Manufacturer) aobut 20 things about the cars.

2WD- every problem is solved, with new front kick up - no broken part again. Maybe a harder plastic would be better, the car has to much flex!!! The compression travel in the front with big bores is not correct, so you have understeering with big bores

4WD- the rear hex mount for wheel. If you look, you will find out, that you can not tighten the rear wheels, because the thread of the axle ends to soon. So everbody thinks the wheels are not round.

Drivetrain: the slipper material must be changed into the new yellow like Durango and Asso has it. You need to ventilated slipperdiscs with bores, the cap of the slipper must be removed, Yokomo, Durango or Asso B44 has no upper dust protection, so the heat can go away. So no more fuze ov the bevel gears- the should be kevlar, but with fiber glass not without as now.

And the last thing is, that the rear cardans bind with the diff outdrives in the rear on damping in, so you can see cuts after a while in the cardans. Shorter outdrives or shorter axles will solve the problem

BRGDS
Andreas
Ansmann Racing Team Austria

Now my diff issue is resolved car had been bullet proof - except driving into a wall at the end of the main straight indoors. Broke wishbone pin and shock bracket. The car pulled slightly off a large jump so possible bent shock shaft helped the incident?

Prior to this the car was excellent and getting better. Out of the box aside from 20wt associated shock oil. Now I've got some mileage on it I'll be trying out all the changes suggested here, but a great base to start from.

fair point, but i was thinking along the lines of keeping everything in one place, plus as it stands on oople we don't know who are the team & who are just joe public wth an ansmann logo in their signature, it would be good to get to know the people the team are "working" with. Plus the whole point of being part of a team is that the team work together?

Yeah it would be good to know who is in the team. Maybe someone at ansmann UK would like to update the team drivers page on the ansmann UK page. Wink wink nudge nudge. :D

only problem ive found with my mad rat is that it wont fit in the box, the front end is getting on for 260mm and the limmit is 250mm,

i have a few ideas of how to sort it and will try them and let everyone know if it works.

ps i would like somthing ( email will do ) just to let me know if iam on the team ect, or maby put a name list up on here ect so everyone knows , then if somones looking for help they can see whos driving ansmann and ask them ect

I'm in :thumbsup:

oh no, who invited Springer!! :D:woot::p

I gate crashed ;)