LWB Chassis
 

I'm going to change my chassis from the standard to LWB tomorrow. Should be a straight forward, but is there anything I should consider doing while I'm doing this?

Other than making sure you have the longer centre shaft (Trust me I seen someone forget this) then all will be ok, doesn't take that long to do either. LWB for the Micro Nats?

Thats the idea, which is why I've held off entering till I've gotten it sorted. Got a Blaze knocking about somewhere too, but have run two classes in the past, and it's not something I'd again unless both we're running absolutely spot-on.

dont forget the lwb shell to lol :p

Lol! I wouldnt forget that! Ordered one last week

Weel 9 /10 days left to enter, get it built quick!

I just started putting the car together, and knew the battery top deck wasn't long enough, but thought there might be some way of making it fit. Before I start drilling holes left right and centre, do I need to get a longer battery stay or something else?

i was same, so all i did was get the little peg that you put the pin thur and drilled the chassis and then made my own battery strap out of 3 mm carbon fibre :)

Think I might have to do something similar but so I can use battery tape.

Anyone know if there's a size difference between the Shark and GT14 Optimus shells? I think I might have been sent the wrong one if there is, as it's just not sitting right.

if you go to phat, i no they are down as to diffrent shells, best off with the shark 1 but personally, i found that they where abit thinner, thats i went for the bolt in end:thumbsup:

They're both the same bodyshell for the Shark or the GT14B.

The problem is the Gt14 has a massive front bodypost that makes the body sit way too high .... I presume that's your problem. ?

The best solution I have found is to cut that body post off, and either fit a shorter one to the top deck underneath or simply attache the body with velcro ...

HTH :thumbsup:

when i did my first lwb i thought to myself i aint gunna use the swb chassis anymore so i cut a battery strap out of that, still use it today

Got it trimned and mounted now and its fine, just not happy with my cutting skills. Next job is to paint it, fit a new radio (my helios us on the fritz again) then do the shocks so it doesnt bottom out again and I'll be set.

did you say you wast running the 3racing LST shocks?

Not yet, will probably at some point soon though.

i got mine a few days back and have to say well worth the dollar and they seem alot better :)

Well my micro only get a few runs each year. Hopefully gonna get it setup in enough time to get some practice in soon before the first national.

makes two. i dont do the nationals because fed up with travelling all over lol like the old days so i only race at 1 club, we have 2 more rounds before start of new series, so it looks like i have 2 rounds to set it up.shouldt be hard i know but i have to keep close eye on girlfriends car so that i no its running ok for her lol

mine handles really well with 5000 diff oil in front and 100 shock oil in rear, and 4 x 1mm holes in shock ring

I don't mind all the traveling, it's just the getting there and finding that my car handles like a bag of crap that pisses me off, but once I get it sorted I'll be more of a regular.

lol we used to race full size cars when i was 14, we travelled 300miles and remembered that the keys for my car was at home lol
if i cant get mine to work i will just go back to swb.

Masking up, should be ready to paint tomorrow.

So you getting your entry in Sarah, not long left (I will keep at you until you enter), that goes for anyone else too, the more the merrier

You;re not gonna stop badgering me till I do, I'll get my entry off tomorrow lol

Painting done, stickers next
 

Could someone please tell me where to get the top shock mounting standoff and the bottom rod end for the big bores to be mounted without a problem?
I already own one big bore converted shark(bought it converted), but i don't know where to get the parts beside the shocks and towers to build a second one.
Thanks,
Ron

I believe they come as part of the rebuild kit, try rcmodelimports.co.uk

Cheers

Gaffer

I bought them used, but do the needed top shock standoffs come standard with the 3racing mini LST shocks?
Rod ends i'll use the ATM 3.7, but still searching for the top standoff mountings...

no they dont come with the shocks,

with my bigbores i originaly used the stock plastic standoffs then got the alloy ones,

i got the alloys from here:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRAK0&P=7


also on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duratrax-S...#ht_2195wt_952

I have them, but they won't fit to the 3Racing Mini LST Shocks...:confused:

you could try purchasing a couple of the rebuild kits, the alloy balls in the bottom of pics should fit into the top of the shock and then you should be able to use your shark standoffs as the bolt will go through the alloy parts supplied in the rebuild kit

http://www.rcmodelimports.co.uk/com/...oducts_id=2686

Thank you, i'll try it.
Another question for the big bore setup on my shark.
Could someone tell me a good setup to start from with the LST 3racing big bore shocks for an offroad track on dirt? It's not very bumpy,but there are a few big jumps. Not very fast.
Just don't know which oil and spring i should start with.
Thanks already
Ron

just a update to my little shark lol run the 3 racing big bore shocks and shock towers, and i ran them straight out of the box and it went a dream, TQ and won final to, so cheers RCMI :thumbsup: it was very balanced and even surprised 1 or 2 people how easier it was compared with how it was before.

I ran my lwb shark on Tuesday at Ardent (couldn't use mini-pins, had to use foams). The car handled well, but was slow, and turned really quickly.

The battery may be at fault for the lack of speed, but I was running a 10tooth pinion with a 49 spur (i think). Do I need to gear up with have a longer chassies than the swb shark? Also, anyone know why my turning might be like it is?

it might be turning quickly cos you have a fast servo, you can slow it down with most of todays handsets, i'd go 12/49 or go 18/45 where the pinion and spur are concerned,

i use 12/49 at my local track that has lots of corners and not much of a straight,

i use 18/45 at the winter and summer series tracks as they have massive straights and more room on the corners

10/49 quick acceleration / not much top end

12/49 quick acceleration / modest top end

18/45 modest acceleration / s**t off a shovel top end

thanks for that, I was thinking the steering is more of a grip issue though, will look at turning down the speed of my servo though.

Ardent requires a lot of additive normally, and I wasn't running any. Will try a 12tooth pinion on the 49, as I burnt out my motor and speedo at rd1 last year in the regular shark, and don't want a repeat of that, so don't want to raise it too much. Would rather have better acceleration to speed, as you can easily lose time on the infield, and most places really only have one straight which you can defend your position on anyways.

thanks :thumbsup:

I use genuine Losi mini LST shocks, if you buy the plastic parts set for them, they contain the top plastic bush to mount on an M3 screw (20mm). I cut the bush and used an M3 nut to secure the bolt to the tower rather than clamping the shock top and bush which restricts the movement.

For the shock bottoms you can use the standard lrp/duratrax rear trackrod ends, cut them down to reduce the travel/droop.

The Losi micro t shock bottom balls snap perfectly into the duratrax trackrod ends which you can then mount into the wishbone with the standard M2 bolt, try Wheelspin, Apex or DMS for the losi parts. If all else fails Losipartshouse.com in the US :thumbsup:

The oil weight all depends on the pistons you are using, I use 35 front and 30 rear with the standard mini lst pistons.

The Losi silver springs work well as a soft rear spring if you cut them down by a couple of coils. 3 racing reds on the front, or losi greens.

Hope this helps, See you all at Telford this sunday :D