Rear hub bearings ?
 

Noticed my rear hub bearings had died today, anyone reccomend somewhere to get a new set, or indeed a full car bearing set ?
Ta.

Click my link, 410 kits are in stock also, you will not be dissapointed :thumbsup:
At the moment though I only do complete kits. Individual bearings available in the near future.

www.rcbearings.co.uk are brilliant and cover many models. I used them on my old D410R

Rc bearings use Abec1 rated bearings as stated here -
http://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.ph...id=4&chapter=4

The next level is abec3 rated which i used in the "budget" kits, then the next up are the Abec5 rated and considerably better, all the kits I now sell are the Abec5 rated, nothing less :thumbsup:

why is an abec 3 or 5 bearing "considerably better"?

the higher the rating the more spherical the bearing, the tolerances are much tighter, the better the ball the more free the bearing runs and smoother operating.

edit -

this is worth a read if interested

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale

really? abec ratings have got jack shit to do with the ball used, balls are graded on a different spec, you are comparing your abec 5 bearings to the other companies abec 1 bearings and telling us your bearings are considerably better!!, when actually a wheel fitted with your bearings will rotate at exactly the same speed, and in reality due to the application as an rc car wheel bearing an abec 1 bearing is a better choice than a higher abec spec.

I never said it would spin faster, but certainly more efficent.

And it has alot to do with the spherical tollerances of the balls used.

Be my guest and buy Abec1 rated bearings, im not here to convince you if you think Abec1 are better.

rather than some dubious wikipedia perhaps this quote from SKF
Precision ABEC 5 and ABEC 7 bearings

http://www.skf.com/images/space.gif
Precision ball bearings in tolerance grades ABEC-5 and ABEC-7 are recommended for applications where high speed and/or extreme running accuracy is required.
These bearings have the same nominal external dimensions as equivalent size ABEC-1 grade bearings; however, the running characteristics and external dimensions are held to closer tolerances.

we require these bearings in the motors but not the wheels or transmission, we fit the bearings into moulded plastic wheels and put them through shafts which can in no way be described as precision fits, a higher tolerence bearing is more susceptable to failure due to water /dirt ingress and to keep its tight tolerences requires constant lubrication.

so feel free to spend money on a bearing which will fail sooner due to the application, cost more to replace and offer no performance increase over the abec 1 bearings

which has nothing to do with the abec rating!

surely your whole point in posting on this thread is to convince me your bearings are better than the other company mentioned?

NOT at all!

Secondly the bearings are also rubber shielded. yes the abec5 works for high RPM fittings, but for everything else they are CERTAINLY an improvement over standard and cheap kits.

If they werent I wouldnt spend my own time and money with these.

Finally I made 2 posts and youve turned this thread into a whole farce about how im trying to say im trying to convince you all my bearings are the best.

IN FACT all I was doing was pointing out that they are a much higher quality bearing than others sold, if your happy to run basic cheap bearings then thats your choice, but for the latter I offer a higher quality sealed bearings that i DONT force you to buy.

They ARE VERY suitable for the end application and your opinion that they dont last as long is extremely incorrect.

I only pointed out that the ABEC rating is higher than the others and jumped on the band wagon talking nonsense about being unsuitable and shorter lifespan.

these bearings have had extensive testing and have been running these bearings myself with better sucess than standard bearings, I wouldnt use any other bearing since using these.

this may be your opinion on the matter and yes it differs from mine, if your not convinced then im not going to convince you, but have you had experiance with different rated bearings and lifespan of each bearing? because you sound like you have but are then stating that an adequate bearing is inadequate and the longer lifespan is in fact a shorter lifespan.

Both those statements are very untrue.

Taken from RZBOYZ
TOLERANCES:
Tolerances refer to how closely the moving parts fit together. There is an incorrect assumption about tolerances that started with the Skateboarding crowd that the tighter the tolerance, the better the bearing and the higher performance you will get out of those bearings. This is true to a point - the tolerances on a bearing needs to be tight enough to prevent "wobble" and other performance reducing problems. As tolerances become too tight, however, friction inside the bearing starts to increase and the performance will begin to suffer. You need lubrication and enough space for the bearing to spin freely. The Tolerances in a bearing are described by an ABEC or ISO number. The Higher the ABEC number, the tighter the tolerances. Bearings must reach a certain tolerance level (such as a width to achieve and ABEC rating. We have found that ABEC-1 bearings work well for light use, but ABEC-3 bearings are the best for hard use or racing. We have found that ABEC-5 bearings offer slower lap times. Make sure you ask your seller what for the ratings on their bearings - if they don't know or won't tell you, they are probably selling the cheaper ABEC-1 or even non-ABEC rated bearings.

i am not jumping on a bandwagon, i just dont want to see people who use this site getting advice to buy items which are not necessary or have higher spec than required. the problem you have is the RC community comes from a wide spectrum of society and professions, for example i spent today at a race meeting, in the tent we were sharing we had a retired chief engineer from british steel, a graphic designer from a major rc company, two degree qualified specialists in marketing, a manager from Hewlett packard, two rc customer support people and an engineering manager from the Food industry. you pick a subject and i can guarantee there is a specialist in that area on this site, make claims about your bearings but dont get the arse when somebody picks you up on that.

Crikey, I now know a lot more about bearings :)
So, which rating are the kit items that have failed ?

They most certainly DO NOT result in slower laptimes! I'd in testing have found the ABEC5 offer No LOSS in performance, those who made these claims are incorrect.

please supply your test data for the above claim, what testing ? to what standard?

the captainlip standard, nuff said! Id like to see the test results for their claim saying they believe abec5 actually results in slower lap times :rolleyes: or could that be because they only want to sell abec3 rated bearings.....

Andy
i dont know what rating the bearings TD supply are, however they are a reputable company who pride themseles on engineering a product, so i would think they have the correct standard for its application.

your rear wheel bearing failure was probably due to the wet/sand followed by dry/sand conditions of yesterday, as you are now aware purchasing a bearing purely on its Abec rating is pointless. in your case i would look at what winter racing you are going to do, how much maintainance you want to do and finally how deep your pockets are.

if you intend running a lot over the winter and will run at RHR then your bearings are going to take a hammering. high quality rubber sheilded and you will still probably go through a few.
if your maintainance regime is to chuck the car in the boot and have a look at it later in the week then dont bother with high end bearings, by the time you take them out it will be too late.

in your case i would either buy a few cheap bearings and throw them away regularly, or get some higher spec bearings from a reputable source and keep them clean/oiled. you may find an email to TD asking about where they source bearings will get you an answer as not all RC companies supply the kits with cheap grade bearings and the kit ones may be better than you think. if you go for an aftermarket bearing then go with a reputable supplier and preferably with a supplier who is recommended to you.

i also would like to see test results from you and them, however neither is likely to happen, you are misleading fellow forum members about your bearings and you are misleading them for your own financial gain. you are a fool.

EXACTLY how am I misleading people? I sell high quality rubber shielded bearings that are a higher grade than others that ARE suitable for the application!

I'm not forcing anyone to buy some, I buy my bearings from a VERY well established company from the EU and not from china like the lower grade I tried out and proved to give poorer results.

I have sold over 25 bearing kits now and not had any complaints or heard of any failures like you claim would happen! Ive had a number of repeat customers also in the small time ive been offering this service.

For winter racing I pop the covers off and use waterproof grease. I'm still using kit bearing 18months old. I know this makes em drag a little but not as muched as one that is seased.

When it dries out turps em out and re oil.


Not everyone has a massive budget, or even the inclination to spend it.

Yep - that's me :)

I'll just get some cheap ones then and if they die - so be it. I'll be running mainly inside from now on anyway.

Cheers for all the info guys.

I and others would like to see what your results are based on. You have not been racing long but lead everyone to believe you are an expert and only your opinion counts.
RZBOYZ have been in the rc industry for many, many years longer than you. I would take their opinion above someone who cant tighten a wheel nut properly every time.
Have a read of this fully or just the bit I have posted for you. No doubt you will rubbish a highly regarded rc supplier who dares to offer an opinion that does not agree with you. You have just jumped in thinking the higher the number the better the bearing. the ref has tried to explain things to you, but you still wont accept anyone else could know more than you.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3504892626...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1
How Freely the Seal lets the bearing spin is directly related to the performance of the bearings. A rubber sealed bearing offers lower performance than the other types of seals because the rubber seal is actually in contact with the inner workings of the bearing, which results in higher friction as the balls rub against the rubber seals. Metal Shields, Teflon, and Polyamide Seals are "non-contact" as they are held in place away from the inner workings of the bearing. They let the bearing spin easier and offer noticeably higher performance

how are you misleading people?. you say you have extensively tested these products. yet on two occasions when asked have failed to provide any data on when where etc.
you make statements of fact about your bearings but cannot supply any back up data, faster lap times/slower lap times, long lasting/shorter lasting.
you claim abec 5 bearings have rounder balls, when in fact the abec rating has nothing to do with the balls.
you say you have sold 25 kits, is that to 25 people you lied to with your advertising or 25 people who made an informed choice having been given the facts.

Abec ratings refer to the accuracy of the bearing to its stated dimensions, it has nothing to do with the quality of materials used in its manufacture or the grade of ball within the bearing.

buying a bearing with an abec rating of 5 or above does not give you a bearing that is faster or long lasting. the reality is higher abec bearings are more closely toleranced and will require more maintainance and will fail quicker when subjected to enviromental impacts such as water/dirt etc.

you could in theory buy an abec bearing made of cheese/wood/putty as long as it was dimensionally accurate it would get an abec rating.

now you can use the assumption that a bearing manufacturer who has gone to the trouble of making a bearing to a high abec rating will also have used a quality grade metal for the races,balls and cages. will supply the bearing pre lubed with a quality lubricant and with seals that actually seal.

you can buy high abec rated bearings made from poor quality materials you can also buy lower rated abec bearings made from high quality materials.

which type are you buying?

WOW I`ve only been a member on here a few days and there seems to be quite a lot of friction between posting members.FUNNY that on a bearing thread EH!!
Well just to establish the truth on this whole Abec DRAMA!!
Abec ratings are proof of the tolerances between the outer shell to ball and from ball to inner shell or vice versa which ever way your inclined to looking at the bearing.
Now an Abec 1 bearing would more likely to produce more slop in axle applications etc Than something like an Abec 5 would.
An Abec 1 would produce much more vibration at high revs than an Abec 3 would.
Yet an Abec 3 would not neccessarily spool up faster than an Abec 1 for instance.Well that`s not completely true.
IF ALL the other components are balanced in the area of application.
This is where things can start to get silly as these are toy cars and not dental drills hehe.Anyway i hope you all in disagreement find your peace.:woot: May i just be clear here I`m not taking sides of any members posting THEIR opinions I`m just explaining what i`ve learn`t in the work place over the last 25 yrs.

totally agree, but the comment made about abec5 bearings making laptimes slower is laughable. :D

So where,s your proof that they are. Come to that where,s your feedback??
Not one person from 25 sales??? :eh?:
johnnygibbon did leave you some but you got that deleted

Just one more thing (no i ain`t columbo:)) To gain real noticeable speed from just inserting bearings is quite a tall order it would be very minute if noticable at all to the average racer.Unless the bearings you have are utter junk!! In reality you would be better of learning how to balance your wheels and tyres and checking them after every race more so if you crash.
Balanced wheels puts less strain on the drivetrain and especially the shocks.
The shocks have a major job keeping the wheels producing traction you certainly don`t want to be over stressing them with wheels that are well off balance.
Just think of your real car when the wheels are out of balance,its like trying to shake your fillings out your teeth.
These toy cars produce so so much more power to scale than a real car, so think of how much stress those shocks and the drivetrain are under when your wheels are out of balance :cry: Anyway just a thought!!

replacing bearings isnt about going faster its about having less resistance and having a bearing that will last longer and work better than other bearings.

when looking into bearings my main aim was to provide a bearing that will last longer and be manafactured better than the standard bearings supplied.

no matter what bearing you choose it wont make you faster OR slower.

I find this advert misleading it implies that your are selling durango bearing kits, not a generic replacement set. Maybe durango should talk to you about this misleading claim. It should read replacement bearing kit for the durango 410.
http://images.shoppit.co.uk/sizeimag...&freepostage=1
High Quality Durango Bearing Kit for the 410.

I agree that metal shielded bearings have less friction than the rubber shielded versions (not that you'd really notice) but the rubber offers alot more protection against dirt ingress and this will affect a bearings performace a lot. In off road applications i would only ever buy rubber shielded bearings. This is what i have found from MY experience anyway.

I suggested www.rcbearings.co.uk as their service to ME was great and then did the job perfectly. They are also a great price as I'll replace bearings as they're a disposable items these days.

I have to agree, Ill sort that!

Bearing seals used to make a massive difference back in the day of scr 1100, with stock motors. say you were running 21 89 in a procat you could dump before finishing, hook the covers off the inside bearing faces where you don't need then you could go up a pinion with a slither of milliamp to spare !!!!

Bearings
 

Hi James it's Michael .try rc bearings worked well for me .not a bad price .even the ceramic good price.

Lots of talk about abec 1-5 and tolerances. Another thing, maybe more important is QUALITY. Abec tells you about tolerance, nothing about quality of the material. A abec1 bearing can be much better then a abec5.

Can anybody point me in the direction of a retailer of the above-mentioned cheese bearings? They sound like the ones for me ;)

Joking aside (yep it was a joke) I have actually learnt some interesting things about bearings from this thread - so, say, in an off road buggy bearings in the hubs would be better of rubber shielded whereas bearings in the drivetrain (provided it is reasonably well sealed) could live with being metal shielded (or teflon in the case of my Kyosho) - or given the fact that most of us have oodles of lipo capacity left over these days after a heat why not just go for rubber shielded throughout...is it really going to make that much difference?

Put my car out on a very wet and muddy track the other day and had a hub bearing seize almost immediately - they probably were overdue a little tlc to be fair but it had got me thinking about putting the rubber shielded ones in as they are also easier to strip down and blast out

Still haven't made up my mind on the ABEC debate but it has made me realise that higher doesn't mean better for our application