RB5 SP2 VEGA SETUP
 

Hi,as the car has been out for a while could someone let me know a good starting point,a good all round setup,would the std sp2 setup that comes with the rear kit be ok to get used to the car,
thanks
Mark

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/teamxtr...VegaElite.html

Take your pick....

Hi spenner,i found this one of yours from a while back,how did you find this one were are you at now

Front
32.5wt Oil (losi)
Piston 2c
Orange spring #55
Shock mounted outside hole on wishbone
Middle on Tower
Short Track (Washer on the inside of front axles)
Inner link position - middle with 2 washers
Outer link - long
Pivot block spacers - None
Kick up - 25 degree


Rear
27.5wt oil (Losi)
Piston 3a
Blue Spring #68
New Inside hole on wishbone (drilled one hole in from original postion)
Outside hole on revised tower.
Wheelbase - long in the dry, short in wet or when track is loose.
Camber link inner - lower, outer hole (short)
Camber link hub - Inner (short)
1 Degree Alloy hubs, 2mm washer under ballstud.
Roll bar - none

Tyres - Dry: Schu Staggers front, Yellow mini spikes rear
Wet: Schu Green Minis, Ballistic Buggy Green Spikes
Inserts - Answer RC Medium all round

Rudebits under speedo weight - 92g
If track is bumpy i add the Rudebits under lipo 72g
Wing - Vega low profile
Vega steering link

For a general setup that will be good for you... I still use that on 95% of the tracks i race on.

thanks:thumbsup:

Hi, was just wondering what the std rear toe is with running the plastic hingpin holders that come with the sp2 kit,iv got the one that says rf2 on it,what is the std anti squat iv got no shims under the hingepin holders,there also seems to be not much droop on the rear,do you run different shock bottoms,id usualy just undo the the shock shaft but there isnt alot to play with to keep it strong,also on the vega kit,in the bag with the motor mount the are 2 plastic shims,what are they for,thanks

:eh?:

I'm building mine right now, got to figure out what to do.

The two small shims are here for the layshaft. I've not shimed it yet but you could need one or two, keep a little slop, no binding.

I'm very pleased with the car material and design, even the shell didn't look that bad, kind of like it.

im not to sure the shims are for the lay saft,i would exspect them to be metal as the plasic would wear on the spinning part of eather the bearing or the shaft itself,i dont think they will last inside and wouldnt want them getting mashed up,i think they might be for the motor on the motor mount,
i keep asking on here because the more info that is available the more chance of the average joe(me)will get the most of this car just by looking on here,

You have to use the long tops there are long and short ones in the kit the SP2 type are the ones you need.The nylon shims i beleive they are not used in gear box.I think they are for the studs thet go in to hold bulk head to stop them coming loose.I used thread lock.Hope this helps.

Well, that was Kevin Lee answer :

The Shims are to shim the layshaft. Make sure you leave a little end float though so it doesn't bind.

:woot:.....i supose if anyone should know:thumbsup:......were abouts do they go

anyone:confused:

The plastic shims are for putting on your transmitter sticks to make them taller.

thats ok then i dont need them as i use a steer wheel:lol:
just a quick pic of the droop or lack of it




http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=4170

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=4171

Move shocks in on the wishbone and in on tower... Hey presto ... Droop. Just like on all Rc cars lol
The team guys are adding an extra hole inner on the rear wishbone.
Hope this helps

Rebec is correct as always :)

very nice, especially like the shock tower lots of adjust-ability :thumbsup:

From my experience, its best to put washers either side of your rear inner camber link balls as the multi drilled section is very thin in between the holes.

:woot:.........could someone pop a pic up,just interested to see how far away from the two holes it is,as i have the sp2 rear arms and wondered if it goes next to the other two holes or on the flat part of the arm,
also i would like to know what the toe in and anti squat is,
do the team run the longer rear shock bodys that come with the sp rather than the shorted ones that come with the sp2


From my experience, its best to put washers either side of your rear inner camber link balls as the multi drilled section is very thin in between the holes.

thanks,i did notice that were it was drilled out there is alot of the carbon missing,

Hi, just ordered a Vega/RB5 kit this week!
I want to race it indoor on carpet/gym floor track with Schu minipins.
Any tips?
Thanks

Hi yah
I would be starting with the following

Front
40w Oil Losi
Piston 3A - Silver Spring - It will feel stiff
Shock mounted outside hole on wishbone and middle on the tower
On your front link have 2 mm washer under the inner side and mount on middle hole and the outer link on long position
Kick up - 30 degree


Rear
30w Losi
Piston 3a with a Cobalt Spring
Inside hole on wishbone and outside hole on tower.
Long wheelbase is normal for me but if twisty then short.
Put your camber link inner on the lower outer hole of the tower with it at the longest on the hub - go upper row of holes on tower if you need more side bite
0 deg rear habs

Under speedo weight - 92g and this never comes out of mine!
Under Lipo weight should be adjusted subject to what type of track.
If there are little jumps, rumble strips etc that upset a normal car then run under lipo 74g

Schumacher Staggers up front - old type with no foam
Schumacher pins on the rear

Good luck and let us know how you got on.
If you are same venue as me then come to see me.

Hi Tony,

thank you very much for all this precious informations!
Rudebits weight ordered.

Updated Set Up includes Big Bores
 

Hi yah all
I run Big Bore shocks on my 2wd for the first time yesterday indoors on carpet with jumps and slippery sections.
With a variation of different pistons on the way for testing I run very close to my normal set up as listed below but with this combination of oils and pistons.
The result was really good but unfortunately got beat by Darren Bloomfield in the final (he is good though!!) LOL


Front - Big Bore
Piston standard 5 hole - New Super Hard Orange
40w Oil Losi
Shock mounted outside hole on wishbone and middle on the tower
3 mm washer under the inner side of link - middle hole
Outerr link on long position
Kick up - 30 degree


Rear - Big Bore
Piston 5 hole drilled to 1.4 with a Yellow Spring
30w Losi
Drilled additional very inside hole on wishbone and one in from the outside on the tower.
Short wheelbase
Camber link inner on the lower outer hole of the tower with it at the longest on the hub
0 deg rear habs

Under speedo weight - 92g and this never comes out of mine!
Under Lipo weight should be adjusted subject to what type of track.
If there are little jumps, rumble strips etc that upset a normal car then run under lipo 74g

Ride height at 20mm

Schumacher Staggers up front - old type with no foam
Schumacher pins on the rear

tony
are the spings used the kit ones or are they option ones?
cheers andy

The front orange springs are definitely option springs. Not sure what rear spring come with the kit. We'll find out next week I suppose!

Hi yah Andy, Kevin is correct the front springs are the NEW ones, part no. K.XGS006,
The rears did came with the shocks if I recal but unforunately there is no way we can know what the new kits come with.
I have emails Japan but not even sure they will give us an accurate answer - sorry we will have to wait like Kevin said - not long now :)

servo weight?
 

hi
there seems to be plenty of info regarding the under speedo and under battery weight but nothing regarding the servo weight is it not used?
or under what circumstances would it be used?
cheers andy

Hi Andy
I use it if there are jumps that I want the nose to come down quicker or if the car pushes out of the corner. On some tracks where tracks are really high and the nose comes up it is helpful then too.
Hope this helps you

My current setup.. (Very close to Matt O's old setup)

Currently lacking mid corner on carpet..

Front
35wt Oil (losi)
Piston 2c
Orange spring #55
Outside hole on wishbone
Middle on Tower
Wide Track
Inner link position - middle with 2 washers
Outer link - long
Pivot block spacers - None
Kick up - 30 degree


Rear
27.5wt oil (Losi)
Piston 3a
Blue Spring #68
New Inside hole on wishbone (drilled one hole in from original postion)
3rd hole out on tower
Wheelbase - short on hub, short inner
Camber link inner - lower, outer hole
Camber link hub - (1 deg alloy hub) inner hole (shortest-alloy)
Roll bar - none

-1 Degree camber all round.

Tyres - Yellow Mini pins rear and staggers front (old style, no foam)
Inserts - medium

Rudebits under speedo weight - 92g
Rudebits under lipo weight - 62g
Rudebits under servo weight 28g?
Wing - Team Xtreme med downforce
Vega steering links

You could have asked me tuesday if you wanted, but you could try these changes

0 or 0.5 deg rear hubs, no need for that much toe in on high grip carpet
Take the under lipo weight out
Move the rear shocks to the middle hole on the wishbone
Maybe try minipins on the front with the outer rows cut off

Cheers James,

Had bigger problems on Tuesday. (transponder wasn't counting)

Have tried 0, but just freed the rear a bit, but didnt change the steering..

The pins only lasted one clubby at the new silverstone track and were completely bald! Thought I would try and make the staggers work cos I'm cheap..

Agree with chalkie, I use 0 degrees most of the time. Also agree with the lipo weight as it tends to slow the reaction down. It's good for bumpy tracks though.

Moving the shocks out on the rear wishbone will help keep the car flatter but you will lose turn-in.

Other things to try are:

Raising the inner front ballstud. I tend to run 3 or 4mm on high grip. This will gives more mid and exit, and will chill the car out a little going in.

Try long wheelbase... Short is great for low grip, but I find the rear gets locked in too much on high grip.

Remove some anti squat, I'm currently running a 1mm Spacer under the rear pivot brace.

Make sure you're not running the car too low. I tend to run at driveshafts level (or just under), even indoors.

Also try, short neck ballstuds on your steering Ackerman link. It helps get more lock. I noticed the WC kit comes with them now.

And.... try without the under steering weight as that will slow the reaction down too. Most of the time I run with either 45 or 90 under the speedo. Quite often just 45g

Hope that helps

Yeah it's pretty hard on tyres and cells, i managed to take 2400mah out of a set of cells in one round.

Two other things worth trying are 25 deg caster and as a last resort narrow front track width.

what does the kickup do and when should you run 25 and when should you run 30 degree?

That will give less ackerman similar to the vega steering arms correct?

25 deg should give more steering on the way in to the corner and 30 deg should give more steering on the way out, but like most things it's not always that simple.

It actually gives slightly less ackerman, but it allows the inner wheel to lock out more, and so you get more overall lock because it's not limiting the outer wheel too. I find that with a longer ballstud, the inner and outer stud, and the steering arm pin get in line too early before its fully locked out. You can check if this is happening by steering full lock on the transmitter, and seeing if there is play in the inner wheel.

Not sure that makes sense but hope it does..:)

Just to check another thing Adam. You say you are in the shortest link on the hub. Do you have any spacers under there?

If you mean that your get more lock on the outside wheel before the steering knuckle hits the C hub on the inside wheel then that makes sense.