Edit Lightweight Parts Now Available
 

http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ed010461&lang=en

http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ed010471&lang=en

:D

Lookin good adam. Will the slipper parts fit the bj4 slipper assembly?

lil ben

nice, i reckon ill get me some of them:)

Tried new bits on my car last weekend! One word... AWSOME! Would highly recommend:D

Adam would i be correct in thinking you own edit???

A

Unless he owns HPI :)

EDIT is a brand of HPI Europe. Registration details are as follows:....

or maybe he works for Mirage :rolleyes:

I thought adam had something to do with edit. but i dont know what

A

Adam is basically the KING of Edit. No doubt Adam doesn't raid his piggy bank to set it up on the side of his job at HPI - but he is the designer and main man.

oooooooooooo

A

don't you look at the Ad's in the mags Ash? It tells you on them what he does.:rolleyes:

I havent got my mag in months lol my newsagents have a big stack of them lol

A

Those parts look ace the differential parts look identicle to the bj4/b44 would they fit?

I don't know if they'll fit the B44 or BJ4.
If someone wants to try and fit a stock HB diff into a BJ4 or B44 and let me know they're welcome to.

The parts are really durable. I've had mine in since Batley Outdoor Regional last year.
Jimmeh failed to notice these parts until recently...

You do have to shim the diff slightly different to the standard diff and compounding tolerances never quite add up.
But shimming gearboxes is very rarely the same.

Here's how I normally shim them.
1. Use the same shim as you normally use on the input gear (since this has not altered).

2. Take the built diff and only place this in the bottom half of the gearbox. If the bearings are a push fit it in, make a small ~0.5mm chamfer on both sides of the bearing journal (as shown in the diag). This stops the bearing being pinched and frees up your drivetrain)

3. Now using the silver and brass shims, shim the diff only from the back of the gear side until the diff has no side to side movement but still spins freely.
(This gives you the right amount of shims to 'play' with)

4. Move 0.2mm (1 Silver or 2 brass) to the other side of the diff. This provides a good starting point normally. check for back-lash between the input and ring gear. You should be able to feel some but not much.
Another tip here is to get it so there is none then move 0.1mm to the front of the ring gear.

5. Write down where you put your shims on a piece of paper for your front and rear diff!!! Makes re-building so much easier

Yeah, got the parts today and i'm just fitting them to my car - they look ace and are much lighter than the kit versions.

Just to elaborate on Adam's tip about writing down the number of shims fitted - I write it down on the inside of the gearbox case with a paint marker. Can't lose it then!:o

definatly not, HPI Europe all the way!

untill you need to replace the gearbox :p

do the blades come with the edit parts if not what part number do we need?

The blades are HB61333 - you'll need one set for each diff and one for the slipper, so three packs in total.

I would be more than happy to try it out :)

Sorry for the beginners question.... but what exaxctly is "back-lash" with reference to Adam's build tips in the post above?

Does it mean that there is some free movement/play in the gears?

its the movement between a set of meshed gears.

if they are tight up against each other, there is no backlash, if there is a gap, you can hold one gear and the other will have some movement, this is backlash.

applies to bevel and regular pinion/spur type gears

Where are you guys buying the light weight slipper halfs and the outdrive halfs? It still shows "coming soon" on Edits site. I'm in the U.S. and would like to get some of these.
Thanks,
Chris

attention to hot bodies and Mr Skelding
 

:D just got my d4 off rich on sat and used the astro turf set up on it from pettit rc WHAT A KIT and the set up was bang on u Guy s rule love it big time the cart handles like a treat even though i had the wrong tyre s and springs on it was mint totally converted to d4 cyclone (was trying it get a b44) pleased i didd nt going to spend some more dosh on the up grades for this as it can only get better thanks guys KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK :D:D:D:D

Are you also coming out with those carbon gearbox things??

Could somebody help me PLEASE??????

trying to find these too for my d4 anyone got any pointers :D

Any local hobby shop that distributes mirage products should be able to get you some. Try Marc @ www.m-k-racing.com he should be able to help you out.
hope this helps

thanks man will give him a call :D

EDIT Slipper Hubs and the new externally adj. Slipper
 

Does anyone know if the EDIT lightweight slipper hubs will fit on the new externally adjustable slipper?

If not - Aaron - you planning on releasing a set for the new slipper?

Mmmm, I don't think the current ones do, but I can have a look this week when I build my Worlds slipper, that is unless Adam answers you first ;);)

Also looking forward to getting my Edit ali diffs and ceramic balls this week :thumbsup:

G

Nope they don't fit.

Keep your Eye's peeled for an edit version.!!!

Aaron must be the voice in my head!!!! :eh?:
I'm going crazy.:woot:

Sorry - yes I meant Adam not Aaron. Fingers are too quick on this keyboard!

Adam Hello! Any news on the edit version?

Also I would need some help: I got the lightweight differential outputs and fixed my diffs using the updated silver screw exactly as the manual describes (also checked the additional leaflet that came with the screws - other way around than the kits one) and used the diff cup joint adapters on the driveshafts cutted 0.5mm again as the small leaflet included described. Why my suspension could not work all the way up both in the front and rear at the opposite side of the screws of the diff. The other side where the diff screw head is was almost 100% clear. I trimmed the problematic side's diff cup joint adapters even more and raced the car.

It looked fine but while rebuilding I checked the parts and had been in a lot of contact with the inner parts of the diff. It is quite difficult to understand but if you do not, I can upload some pics to see more clearly.

Any ideas?

Also can you give me any advice on how to fill in the suspension with oil and make it work without any rebound and airfree? I've tried a lot of different variations but cannot make them work as I want. Is this the only reason they came up with the new suspension idea?

I take it you mean that the driveshaft blades rub on the nut side of the diff?
If so mine does the same. It limits the travel when the blades are upright. Thus causing the suspension to bounce when cornering.

Any ideas Adam other than just trimming the blades more?

Yes you are right telboy, have you recently checked yours?

Basically when I put the blades on I trim/dremel the blade while it is assembled to the d/shaft. I trim/dremel it until the suspension has full travel.
As there is quite a lot of compounding of tolerances when the car's are put together, no two cars are completely the same, so you have to trim the blade to suit your car.

The 0.5mm in the instructions is a guide to how much you need to remove.

As the 61333 blade is designed really for use in TC you have to modify it.

Done right, my blades lasted from Stotfold National to York Indoor regional.

A little time spent on getting the blade done spot on when you build them is well worth the effort.:thumbsup:

are EDIT parts available in the US or anywhere else outside of Europe?