B4 Vega Setup
 

Hi there.

My B4.1 Vega arrived a couple of weeks ago, but I am still waiting for some diff parts since I had the non-.1 version of B4, so I have not been able to run the car yet.

However, I still find no info on setups. I was kind of expecting some setup info with the kit, but as it turned out, there was no, absolutely no, info included in the kit, so I have done my best to guess how it all comes together, as there were not even assembly instructions...

So... Does anybody have any setup info to share? I run on a quite bumpy astro-track.

Roy, Norway

the kit needs no instructions Roy
children have made them:thumbsup:

I agree it went together nicely, but still... ;)

I agree with Rebel, customers who buy this type of racing product should know there way round a race car and a 2wd, anyway they drop together!

As for set ups speak to nicVegachild on this forum, he will help.

It's early days for the car so set ups will come through no doubt!

I would go with your STD B4 set up and go from there. Maybe take a look at the Vega Kyosho set ups and compare set ups with the B4, there are spring comparison charts Petit Rc so you can get a set up similar to the Kyosho shocks

If you don't want to wait for the parts to arrive, like me, with a creative solution, you can run the Vega with a b4 diff.

I also have a Vega 4.1 and a B4 donor car, with 2 shock o-rings and a metal shim on the outdrive before the bearing it fits the 4.1 gearbox quite nicely.

I ran a few nights now and it still holds up.

I have ordered the b4.1 outdrives and will change them once they arrive but for time being this works.

For our clay track I run piston 2 + 30wt all round, silver springs on the front, as we have dust on the track I swapped silver in the rear for a softer green spring.
It runs pretty good on our track, much more rear traction than a b4.

thanks for the input, even though I have no particular credentials to speak about, I will also post my setups and experiences as I move forward :)

i allready have setups for two different types of carpet, high grip astro, astro and tarmac mixed and many more.
it is easier for me to email a set up sheet than it is to write it all out on here so PM me if you need a setup

I already have your setup, I just wanted to know if there are more people out there than you and I that run this car, and what experiences they might have at this time :)

The setup I have now has about 7 changes all making it better

And looking at pictures of nicVEGAchildJR's car, I realised that I put the rear A-arms on backwards... So I guess some instructions would come in handy afterall...

pls send me the updated one, then :D

Instructions especially for your lol
How did you mount the shocks then?
Maybe you should stop typing and look at Rc cars a bit lol!:lol:

hehe, well I had the rear A-arms the wrong way around (well actually the right way, when looking at a B4), so I simply mounted the shocks in front of the A-arms. Like on a B4...

You need to put the right hub on da right and da left on da left

NOW I know that, but I have built an X6, and there it is the other way around, so I guess my questions about instructions are not THAT stupid afterall...

And yesterday when I finally received the last few parts for my gearbox, I found out that I need to heavily dremel the rear a-arms to clear the outdrives...

So an instruction sheet is still a lousy idea???

man, I am starting to have some bad feelings for this car, even before I have tried it. Let's hope it runs as well as it looks...

Grelland
What level of racing are you at??

What can I say... I started out with rc-racing in 1982, and have been on and off ever since. I have worked on quite a few different cars, and even have a couple of podium placements in the Norwegian Championships over the years. So I am not a novice... And don't get me wrong, I do know how to put this car together, but why is there so much opposition of the general idea of some simple instructions????

Look at X-factory, they make excellent instructions for their conversion kits...

But back to the topic, which is setup sheets, of which I have only seen two so far. From a guy who does not want to share his racing credentials with the rest of us...

If Imay give you some simple advice on the Vega B4.
Run your normal set up as you would normally have your car but slighly softer rear and slightly harder front.
You will find this is the most simple way to get the Vega to work real good.
This is what we have done on the Kysho RB5 versions and they are great - The B4 is not much different car.
If the car is nervous then add weight
All the best and i think you will find you will really enjoy the Vega.
I don't know anyone that has not liked it.

Lastly - I say if you have a Vega you don't need instruction - LOL

General Setup*
Vega Elite B4.1

Running with 3.0 Degree toe block and 0.5 hubs.
Also running 1 anti squat.

Front Sus
2 Pistons
Associated 35w
Middle Top*
Inner Bottom
Blue Springs

Rear Sus
1 Pistons
Associated 30w
Middle Top
Inner Bottom
Silver springs

Orca Version 2 Pro
Orion 7.5 81/24

Tyres
Front
Shumacher Staggers
Slim Rim No inserts

Rear*
Shumacher Minispikes Yellow
Medium Answer Inserts

Under Servo Weight
28g Rudebits

Under Speedo Weight
92g Rudebits

Under Lipo Weight
62g Rudebits
( Put in to smoothen on ruff tracks or make car less twitchy )

Move shock positions for more or less grip*
Also shorten or lengthen camber links front and rear to generate more or less grip

Try this for a start seems to work for me.

thanks, this was pretty close to my current setup. I will have a chance to test it on our new track tomorrow I hope, then I will let you know how it works.

This is an astro track wiith a couple of quite bumpy sections, and a couple of not so big jumps.

Hi guys, I see from the other threads that more and more people are getting their b4 vegas, and that is good :)

Meanwhile, I have had a chance to test the car at my local track, and so far I am really pleased.

I am aware that not so many have tested the b4 vega that much yet, but maybe someone with a more general knowledge can help me in the right direction.

As mentioned, the track I run on is an astro-track, where parts of the track is quite bumpy.

I have more or less used the setup that nick posted on petitRC, and in the rear I have green springs, 35 oil and ghea tapered pistons (#2, I think).

I am a little confused on the rear shocks, as on my B4s I have mostly used silver springs and lighter oil (30 or even 25), now the "PetitRC" setup suggest softer springs and stiffer oil... ) I see scotty suggest 30 oil and silver springs, so that might be the direction to move then?

Now the question is that on the bumpy section, the rear end does not seem too settled, I started out with the ground clearance a bit too low, so the chassis bottomed a lot, but today I was slightly above "arms level", and it seems the chassis is not hitting the ground, but I "lose" the rear end in the high speed bumpy parts.

I compare with my sons' b4s, and they are a lot better in that section (but the vega is much faster in the sharp turns :) ), and they both run silver springs and 25 oil.

So what direction shoud I go? Lighter oil, or stiffer springs (as I feel the b4s works better..) I currently have no weights under the lipo. Would that help the issue?

I see that I also have tendencies of traction roll at the end of the straight, especially as I raised the rear.

Looking forward to even further improve the handling of this nice car :)

grelland.
and some anti squat to the car but it will also increase steering

After running on a local farely flat but more bumpy track on sunday, i ran the vega with silver springs front 35w AE 2 pistons and green springs rear 30w AE 1 pistons with FULL RUDEBITS weight kit ( 28g Servo, 92G Speedo and 62g Lipo ) with 1 anti squat. I found this settles the car alot more, ableing to drive into and around the corners alot harder and push on more. Tryed without under lipo weight found the car not settling well after jumps.
Running the wishbones just below level at the front with the driveshafts level at the back. It was a fairly high grip track so on the front running middle top and outter bottom with slim rims and stagger tyres and rear running middle top and inner bottom with yellow part worn spikes with meduim answer inserts.

Cheers for the set up info, I'm pretty close to that but silver all round.

What toe in block? I'm going to try 3 deg

What rear camber link position?

If you run0.0 deg hubs there is a mod that can be done and it will improve the handling of the car

Thanks guys, I have ordered the lipo weights, at that seems to be a vital part of the setup. I already had 1 mm anti-squat, do you recommend even more?

Will give it a try again later this week :)

I'm running a 3.0 Degree toe block with 0.5 Degree Hubs. But have been advised to try more will test this weekend. Hope this helps.

Thats what I'm running Scotty, 3 deg and 0.5 rear ali hubs.

Any idea on a camber link position for the rear??

Hub 3rd one out and shock tower top 2nd one in with 1 degree of camber. Hope this helps. Scott

Cheers mate

I had a chance to try a couple of packs again tonight (the advantage of building a new track 5 minutes from my house :) ), and since I have not received the under-lipo weights yet, I only changed the shocks; now I tried 30 oil and silver springs, and it certainly helped a lot. Cant wait until the weight arrives :)

And here is a shot of the car after two back-to-back packs:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m..._3257577_o.jpg
That is the reason why I love astro :) We had buckets of rain yesterday, and the track was really nice and dry, and as you can see the car is spotless :)

Lipo weight arrived, and yesterday I had another go, and I changed to blue springs up front in order to minimse grip roll midways in corners, and kept the silver/30wt in the back. And as people have said; this really settled the rear end down :)

I can now push a lot harder in the corners, and I am sad to say, that from here onwards, it will most likely be my driving skills that limit me :)

One more question, My personal feeling is that the staggered ribs have a very "aggressive" feel to them; is there a front tire with slightly less grip available, or are there other changes to the setup I can do to calm the front down a little; especially entering corners? I have some toe-in already

Happy the weight arrived and yes it makes the car so much easier to drive.

If you raise the inner front link that will chill the car out on turn in and give a little more mid and exit. As a starting point on high grip I'd be long on hub, short on tower with 3 (maybe 4) washers and on low grip go to 1 washer. I've not driven the b4 vega but lm just carrying what I know over from the x6.

I'm assuming you are using the standard staggers and not the cut ones?

Also, what caster blocks do you have on there?

Kev

Also, do you have the front shocks in the inner or outer hole on the wishbone?

inner

thanks, today I have the link in the positions you say, but only 1 washer
standard staggers
25° caster blocks, trailing axle spindle

Putting the shock outer on the wishbone will help, and also it might be worth thinking about 30 degree caster blocks as they will make the car less pointy.

Definately try raising the link though if the grip is high.

great, thanks a lot