Lazer zx-5
 

Hi can anyone tell me how to set up my zx-5 for indoor racing with a track that consists of slippy and grippy surfaces the track also has a few rubber mats and some fairly large jumps. also i don't know if the motor influences the set up, but if so i am running a 10x2 team checkpoint motor.

Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks

hi there

i have no idea how good this set up is...i found it in an old racer mag lol

front:
oil-40
pistons-kit with two holes drilled to 1.5mm
springs-kyosho yellow
shock pos-tower-top middle
shock pos-wishbone-outside
ride height-driveshafts level

back
oil-30
pistons-kit with two holes drilled to 1.5mm
springs-kyosho blue
shock pos-tower-top middle
shock pos-wishbone-outside
ride height-driveshafts level

gearing (10x2) 17/76
cell position-rear

hope this helps :D

Craig

Thanks Craig im sure this will help

Looks like Nigg's original setup, (direct links not working in setup section), but yellow minipins will make most difference, you can afford to run slightly harder suspension and sit lower, car will not be bounced around like on grass, think smooth and keep away from any brick walls !

Thanks i hope all this will work =)

also don't run the front one way. i ran this on carpet first time i got my lazer and it was undriveable, turned in so much it just span itself.
run the diff up front with a one way layshaft, if that's too agressive then just run the diff.
low and stiff is also the way forward as already said. I'd also run the rear roll bar (then again i always run the roll bar!)

thanks everyone and i was wondering how i could stop it from spinning out. i must loose about 3 seconds a lap due to this now i might be able to keep up with other people =)

First thing you need to do is work out if it's too much front lateral grip or not enough rear .... more tricky than it might seem at first.

Easiest way is to stiffen the front springs and see if that helps ..... although it is likely to dull the cars response and make it kick it's nose up over the bumps but try to ignor that for now .... does it cure the spin outs? If it does your probably too soft all round ..... try that next.

Once you have the springs somewhere near then work on the oils to correctly damp the springs.

Once you have that then start to wrok on the link positions.

Forgot to mention that I normally do this process with the upper shock position in the middle hole (inside of middle 2 if a 4 hole tower) and the lower mount (wishbone) out on carpet ... in on rough surfaces or dirt.

If you can work out what the car is doing on corner entry -- mid corner -- and exit along with posting your set-up we might be able to point you in the direction of an improvement.


On the whole the order of set-up changes (most effect to least) are

tires
springs
oils
links
shock positions
castor
wheelbase

Get the tires and the shocks right and your a long way towards a result ... I think of the other adjustments as a fine tunning aid.

A couple of people expressed concern to see the whole front end of my RB5 in pieces between the first two rounds at a recent indoor event ...... some felt I may be making too many adjustments at once .... the following round the car went TQ .... ;)

well at the moment i am running

front
shock position in tower middle
shock position wish bone out side
oil is 40
one-way diff
yellow springs
also i had a little experiment with it and i have put the 1.5 mm roll bar on it and the amount of times that it span out weren't as frequent and it helped it over the jumps a bit

back
shock position in tower top
shock position in wish bone in side
oil is 30
green springs

motor 10x2 team checkpoint
gears
pinion 18 tooth
shaft 84 tooth
tires yellow mini spikes and some times yellow mini pins all round
also which hole should i put the steering tie bar in on the knuckle arm

Looking at your setup it seems that the full one-way diff is your biggest problem, this is almost certainly what is causing the car to loop around.

If it is the slippy bits where the car spins, try running with full-time 4wd and no roll bars. If it is the grippy bits, increase roll stiffness at the front to stop it hooking in.

I ran a Lazer a couple of times at Teesside, and although I didn't set the world alight (far from it), I found that the car was pretty driveable with the kit setup with the following changes.

Front: Inner hole on wishbone, #500 oil, camber link in outer bulkhead hole
Rear: Outer hole on wishbone, #350 oil, camber link in outer bulkhead hole
Drive: Diffs front and rear, centre one-way
Cells: Rearward.
Ride height: Driveshafts level

This was on worn yellow minispikes.

I don't know if Martin Illsley is seen at Teeside much these days but if you see him driving a Lazer then that is probably my old car and probably still has my setup on it, I'm sure he wouldn't mind if you took a look.

Dave A.

thanks after all this my buggy should be running perfectly

I agree .... swap the front one-way for a shaft one-way to begin with ..... not everybody can drive quickly with a one-way diff (please don't take that in any other way than constructive as it is meant)

What pistons are you running front and rear?

What link positions are you using front and rear?

I don't understand why the rear roll bar would help over jumps ..... now if the jumps are directly after a fairly tight corner the extra roll control might help the car enter teh ramp straight and true.

If the rear roll bar is helping it might still be a front end problem ..... the extra rear roll control preventing the whole chassis rotating into the corner.

What effect does moving the cells front and back do for you? If the cells forward makes the problem worse it's almost certainly the front end needing stiffening a little .... or a shorter more angled (down at the inner end) front link.

shock pistons are 2b all round i think and i forgot to mention earlier that i was running the one way on the shaft and not the diff and what do you mean by the link positions.

by the way i am fairly new to the sport so thats why i really don't have a clue but Gary at TRCC said he doesn't think it's my driving style so thats one posotive thing at least

I thought he said it was your driving style :confused:

no josh he said it was the set up, if you miss heard

By link positions I mean the positions of the ball studs on the top suspension links (some people refer to them as camber links ... top arms ... etc.)

Part of the reason I am getting a ZX5-Sp to try is that traditionally Kyosho have always produced a naturally neutral car. That means it can be adapted to most driving styles so don't worry, we will get you there.

Without being able to see you drive the car it is going to be a bit of a slog but so long as you feedback what each set of changes do for you we'll get there.

I think he will be driving at teesside regional so someone may be able to report back from there.

You need to look for a setup sheet thats close to what you are driving on, grass, astro, carpet. you won't find many for the ZX-5

get some blank sheets and note your starting positions, make small changes, one step at a time, make notes, so if you notice improvements you know why, if things get worse you can back track.

Here is a setup thats easy to understand
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/setupsh...iscactus06.pdf

i may/may not apply, but you can see which holes Pavidis used. you can navigate to this sheet from the oOple kyosho setup links, a lot do not work, but still one or two in there.

afterthought: What works for other drivers may not work for you, driving styles vary, specialy the top guys

Jonathan Challenor - by any chance was yours the Lazer with nasty handling in the bottom final at yesterday's regional? Reddy/bluey kind of body?

For some reason I noticed your car as I was waiting for my final. Have you found that it only loops around on right hand turns? Looked that way to me.

If so, I would say there is something mechanically off with the car. Not a setup issue.

Either the settings are uneven from left to right, or something is binding on one side of the car like a bearing or a driveshaft.

Give the car a thorough going over to make sure no parts are damaged and everything moves freely. That may be your problem.

That might have something to do with the huge metal plate screwed to the bottom of the chassis holding it together :p

Why does there need to be a metal plate to hold everything together. I thought the car was plastic?:p:eh?::o:D

that one might not have been mine because there was another zx-5 in my final and that one was red/blue and I thought mine seemed to be handling fairly well but mine was purple on the top and yellow down the sides that fades into orange and yes it does have a metal plate underneath to fix the chassi but that doesn't add much weight.

But i was happy with the way that it was running also i'm trying to save up for the conversion kit

i don't know if this helps but my car was number 5 and what final were you running in and what was the number of your car also what type of car was it

it was metal because the chassi was broken completely and i haven't been able to get a replacement as of yet

Well you do realise that thats going o be almost 100% the main problem barre driver ability, the front end is wonky :p

haha. Yeh i "think" tht might be your problem lol

lil ben

hi
actually josh i fixed that part but forgot to tell you and now its totally straight.

Maybe by eye, but its still gonna make a HUGE difference to the way the car behaves to different inputs and setup changes.

Dont really know much about kyoshos but isnt the atomic carbon chassis good? I think it might be a bit better than a metal plate screwed on the bottom of your chassis?

lil ben

Did someone say Atomic Carbon....?

Not suggesting your current chassis is to blame but I have a brand new ZX5 with Atomic Carbon chassis all built up and ready to go...

I'm only selling because I own two...

See the For Sale section for pix.

Cheers

Mart

Think it would help the car. I wouldnt really know though. Also its more bling lol. I guess it would give the car less flex.

lil ben

i know that its meant to be better and i was going to order one just after Christmas i was either going to get the atomic carbon chassi or the km concepts conversion

Jonathan (and anybody else) ..... don't order anything just yet ...... ;) Trust me!!!

stick with the kit chassis, or go KMC. I tried the atomic chassis at it made the car much worse.
The KMC is pretty well balanced, especially jumping.

If you are a beginner then the kit chassis is much more forgiving than the atomic.

I'm not intending to start a 'mine's better than yours' conversation here but I found the Atomic Chassis far easier to drive than the stock one.

The Atomic Chassis moves the cells further forward and in my opinion has made the car far better in the air particularly....

I guess it's horses for courses.......

Just another TPW

thanks for the advice.
It was the km concepts chassi that i was interesting in buying and until i could afford this particular hop up i was going to stick with the standard one. also at the moment i believe every bodies zx-5 is better than mine so you can start that comment if you want because personally i am in agreement with you.

hehee =D
 

ohhh!!
yours is fabb jonny
so's the lad him self
esecialy after all the stick he gets because of his buggy and its alloy plate on the bottom =\

don't quit boy!! :D 0=D

ok folks silly q how do I remove the one way front diff as I had spinning out under power problems at the mk gp on the slippy sections.

Hopefully Jim will give you some advice, but i suspect your car is running a front diff (same as in the back) with the one way on the shaft, I may be totaly wrong. Do you have a manual, page 2 of Jimmy's review here:
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/zx5/zx5review02.html
shows the diff arrangement (no bearings on the shaft in picture) and a one way arrangement (with the bearings).

Not a lot of detail on the shaft, but at the front end before it meets the front diff there is a one way bearing, you can remove this and there were parts in the original kit to make it "solid".

Guess if you are sitting twiddling the wheels, you should be able to see where the one way starts & finishes, when we ran oneway in the front diff Jordan tore off a wishbone and we lost the outdrive, that just sits in the bearing, i am having trouble discribing this, if you pull the link off twix top of front hub & bulkhead, the wheel & wishbone will swing down, driveshaft will come out of the outdrive, if the outdrive then easily slides out, its part of a oneway, if it dont its a diff.

Jordan drives all the time with two diffs & one way on the shaft, we won't change it. hint ;)

I think there is a manual in the review somewhere, try searching on here if you havent got one.
Here:http://www.oople.com/rc/manuals/zx5/

What tires were you running, sure I saw it with spikes, try yellow pins

Edit: Page 8 of the manual = Diffs (third option as well) part 89 is the outdrive, ours is still in the grass at Silverstone, page 9 the slipper, page 17 the shaft. Should keep you busy
Mick

it was spikes but I want to try yellow pins at the practice as well as some difrent set ups.

I'll get the car stable with the one way then try it without and see what I find.


ta for the links btw