X4TE testing.
 

Me and two friends went testing the X4TE's yesterday at Southport yesterday.
My friends have ran theirs last week and it was my first outing with it.
All three cars made the A main and I know it was only a club day but for THREE AR cars to be in it made me very happy!
Nic Cox was not too happy with it but he didnt have the correct tyres on.
Les Pearce ( B team ) was really happy with it but it did have alittle too much steering for him.
Me on the other hand thought the car was much faster than the old car.
It flew!
Really happy and I hope it will be this good everywhere! Please.

Good work Woody.

Yesterday was my first meeting the X4TE at Coventry and definatly made good progress. By the end of the day managed to get a time that would have placed me near the A. A few things to work on but the car definatly has loads of potential and I am looking forward to running the car again :thumbsup:

Woody/Andy

Any updates? How you finding the cars?

Yesterdays testing.

I've been trying to solve a problem with the rear end breaking loose almost at the last minute. Well yesterday I found the solution.

I've moved the shock to the front of the arm like most other cars on the market (B44, Durango, Kyosho etc)

OMG not only did it solve that issue it made the car much easier to drive hard with consistancy. I'll try to get some pic's up for you all to see.

any picture available, thanks :)

Yes, some pictures, please. ;)

I haven't done anymore testing with mine. There is a regional this coming weekend so should be interesting to give it another run out. :thumbsup:

I've been a little busy with work and family however I will attempt to get some time later today/tonight.

Here is the rear end modification.

Steps
1. drill holes in the rear arm that are the same position as the rear. (I only drilled the inside hole as I will only use this one)

2. Use a longer screw at the top on the tower (30mm)

3. Add 7mm of spacers to get the correct angle for mounting the shock.

4. Attach the shock and go faster :)

I really encourage you guys to try this and provide feed back. I'm sure if it really does help many others then Team C/Ansmann would produce an upgrade.

We have tried this a few months ago but it is much better with the wishbones turned around too.:thumbsup:
Makes the car quicker through the tight bits of a track.

Great feedback WoOdy :D I'd say it would, it shortens the wheelbase by 3-4mm. The problem for me is I use a swaybar so I can't really turn them around.

I have. Just bend them to make them fit.

Ran mine properly for the 1st time tonight at Rcarena (opening meet)
Kit settings with 6.5 motor yellow minispikes.
The car felt awesome ..a big difference from the x4pro which I've been running previously.
Managed 4th in the A which for me was a great result
I'm hooked :)

Well I finally had a chance to install my new rear gear box. If your not aware there's a new part available TO4039 which allows the rear CVA to sit flat rather than on the angle (see pic's). If you've ever stripped the rear pinion then this should help prevent that.

I had to re shim the pinion as it was too tight I put both shims to the front near the pinion. (Pinion, 2x shim bearing bearing).

Att 1 the old gear box, 2 the new one.

I have the old car (non graphite chassis) and have been happy with it. However the diff rings dont last very long and groove up quickly. Do you guys have this problem?
I will try the front mounted shocks like you suggested. Thanks.

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/q...7052011119.jpg

I flipped the rear wishbones & moved the shocks to the front this week (X4PRO) has made a difference also stopped the rear end dropping to the floor under acceleration.

Big Bore Shocks
 

I'd been skeptical about the advantages of the big bore shocks. I'd chosen to use the standard only on my Team Edition 4wd with great success. Fr 40wt losi oil std piston blue spring Rear 35wt losi std piston black spring.

On the weekend I tried them for the first time .......... WOW I can see what all the hype is about. No timing to compare lap times however I could drive the car harder in the bumpy sections and land better off the jumps.

I'm not going back.
Setup was
Front 32.5 losi oil, black piston soft spring
rear 30 losi oil, white piston soft spring.

Yea they are a little bit soft :(
I use the B-Fast kits P40 for the TQ racing SX10 4wd car. They have carbide diff and thrust balls with treated diff rings..............sooooo good.

here a new option

http://www.teamcracing.net/component...e=200&fileout=


http://www.teamcracing.net/component...ze=90&fileout=

Excellent, about time they brought those out. Extra tuning options to :thumbsup:

ultra mod for the x4pro/x4te
 

I have made a super mod for our 4WD car.

I run the the rear arms from the X2 2WD.

Following items are needed.

rear hubs 2WD x2 (i use the 1° in reverse)
Rear axle X2
Diffscrew X2

I also turned the dampers forward as you can see it in post before.

Have Fun

Andreas Janda
Ansmann Factory driver

Attachment 25027

so you can run the 2WD wheels!!!!

by running to 2wd back end, how does it affect the car is it wider - narrower ect
cheers pete

you have to you use the hex mounts (4mm) from the x2. The arms from 2wd and 4WD have the same lenght.

The difference is the angled arm from the X4, the wheel sit more higher, so you have a lower center of gravity- but only used on american tracks or carpet.

On EURO tracks it should be better with a little bit higher roll center, because of bumps.

I tested the 2WD Reedy Race Amezcua setup, the 4WD arms in the X2 2wd, it only work on flat surfaces, I was about 0,8 to 1 second slower as with my personally standard setup - so the Idea was to put the 2WD arms in the 4WD.

I will test it at the austrian nationals next week.

The 2wd arms are longer by about 3-5mm (sorry I would have to re measure to be certain). However the width of the 4wd hub is wider by about 2-3mm.

So the 2wd arm and hub will be wider than the 4wd arm and hub not by much but still wider.

The longer arm (2wd) should aid stability, the bent/shorter arm (4wd) should give more droop and quicker corner rotation.

my car fits into the box, the only difference is that 4WD arm is angled, so the center of gravity is lower with the 4WD arm (the arms are nearer to the ground)

Please dont think I was challenging your knowledge as I wasn't.
I agree either configeration will fit in the box and the overal lenger (arm + hub + hex) will be pretty close to the same. But the 2wd arm is longer by a few mm with a shorter hub.

Is thisnonly available from team c or can you buy this from ansmann? Any idea on part number?

The Team C part number is TO4039 (2011 rear gear box case)
I'm sorry but I'm not sure about Ansmann

is flipping the rear wishbones still thought to be needed? i am looking at trying to get the weight more rearward as i feel the car is lacking big time in rear end :thumbdown:

I wouldnt say needed,
I have added a brass weight to mine to get the rear end to stick.

I ran at RHR oople race and moved the shocks to the front, it was a a bit slippy in places and a few tight turns, moving them to the front made it quicker for me out of corners.

At Southport national it was high grip, and i moved them to the back again to calm the car down.

Rear BB shocks are set as:
30WT losi oil
6x1.4mm hole piston
medium spring (will have to check this when home)

Mike

thats where i was gonna go next with mine i will look more tonight i think i may need to find a way of mounting the inner ball stud verticaly aswell as i feel the ability to put a washer under this stud is an important one

How much does your brass weigh mike?

Some of the yokomo driver have made a carbon plate which mounts across the the two front screws which secure the Shocktower bulkead.

Like this one :

http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/630128IMG2611.jpg

I would make some but I am rubbish at cutting Carbon. If you do some I will gladly buy and test :thumbsup:

Are you two doing the F2's at silverstone this year?

It weighs 65g,

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=4248

I like the Yokomo carbon link idea, but it does alter the angle of the link quite a bit.
There is a new part coming which has 4 holes for the camber link instead of 2.

http://www.teamcracing.net/index.php...mart&Itemid=71

Mike

Mike, so long as the links are stiff enough (should be) then the angle of the link makes very little difference to the geometry (unless very extreme of course).

I don't think it would be too bad of an angle if you shift the ball joint on the hub to the other side. It might change them a bit on the upgraded alloy hubs though.

I would make some myself but as I say I am pants at cutting things out :lol: I can draw them in Cad but I can't cut for toffee.