Team Durango cant make diffs for sh!t....
 

I dont care what durango or anybody says, ive spent silly £££ with durango and for the 3rd time both diffs are f**ked and will cost me at least another £30 to sort.

no point contacting team cant make diffs, they will blow some bull sh!t my way about how its not covered under warranty

ive built them PERFECTLY, no play in them, shimmed correctly, slipper not to tight, throttle profile low, brakes reduced to 75%

takes the ****** ***** p!$$ they lasted only 3 heats from a full rebuild

durango im seriously p!$$ed with you and tbh considering selling it for something that works and doesnt need rebuilding every heat costing a months wages each time.

takes the fun out of racing!!! :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Have you asked any of your local team drivers to take a look at your car to see if they can spot any problems? - not that I'm saying youre doing anything wrong, but might be worth a try.

ive literally tried everything, this time when they were built they both felt perfect, no play, meshed perfect.

really losing faith in rango, clearly there is an issue as they have put a guide up to build them.

if durango send me some perfectly built diffs as a way of sorting this and thanking me for the hundereds ive spent with them then i would give them thumbs up again.

but ill just get fu*ked off like usual as they dont want to know about it.

No offence but I have not heard, seen of many going tbh.. The Guide-is a guide.. more companies should follow!

then why would i have 3 sets off diffs fu*k up???

seriously the diffs are built really well. but now ive spent over £100 on diffs parts that keep failing.

i must be single handed financing durangos development team

common rango i want an answer for this and something done about it before you lose a good customer and i spread the word to aviod rango diffs

Agreed, number of us run them at torch and have no problems. Think circa 8 410s recently.

But have you talked to a local team driver racing on the same track? They are there to help.

How tight is the slipper as that is also key to protecting drive train

Well if you said you have built them perfectly, there must be something else wrong causing it too happen, what parts have actually gone?

Im all for getting feedback, But if you have x3! go.. there maybe something wrong.. in they way they are built, or your drivetrain. As Gear diff's take a lot of abuse( 1/8th scare racer) and withstand a lot of abuse before they go. Which having 3 go by 1 person. And not many- if any other's complaining of issues. It starts to lead to the car or building them. What parts have gone in the diffs?

i have spoken with i team member at bury who gave some advice.

its inside the gearbox the main crown x4 and the 14t going in the gearbox x2, not to mention shims, gearbox cases x1 plus other spares. :thumbdown:

You sure it was meshed correctly? as if its killing teeth. It likely to have too much play. if not no idea what else it could be.. (Pictures say a 1,000 words)

and when its built i look at every single detail when building it, too me nearly two hours to the point i was happy it be the last time it happen, im running barely no brakes, and the slipper is perfect and defo not to tight!

meshed perfectly, there was barely any play when built. i mean 1mm movement outside the gearbox couldnt have been better :cry:

Do you check your diffs after the first run? just to check it's all bedded correctly?

each heat you could hear they were getting worse, by the final its terrible, cant run it again, so thanks rango £30 of parts lasted me 1 evening.

tbh if rango dont respond to this i will probably sell it for something else, as much as i love it, im not filling rangos pockets for their shit diffs.

lets see there customer service and driver support now please....

Come on Captianlip.

You are yet to describe what actually has happened to your diffs.

I was happy to see the guide personally. As for being on the other side of the world, it is helpful to see what method the factory drivers use. I have run my diffs for a few weeks now with a few chipped teeth, yet it has not failed.

Is it the inside gear?

What oil and brand are you using?
What part is failing?
Is it just leaking?


More info is required if you what help over the forum?

sorry is the main crown and the 14t gear going into the gearbox both are stripping teeth and filling the box full of metal flakes, there is too much play and never seems to mesh correctly even after loads of time getting it to a point it felt perfect. but somethings missing clearly as they keep stripping every meet, its not that it cant be used its that it sounds like a mess, everyone is commenting on how bad it sounds hardly good publicity :lol:

if rango help me out with gearbox cases, grease, 2x 14t input gears 2x gearbox crowns i will be calling praise and glory for rango helping someone who has serious issues with their kit. but this will never happen. after all these would cost rango pennys. :blush:

Now we are getting some where!

You say that there is a lot of play.
Where?
Diff (left to right).
Is the 14t gear moving in and out?
Or is the play all in the mess.
What shims are in what position?


Funny, I built my car and it was noisy, then I built the diffs for mate when he was building the rest of his car. His was quiet. Club members now call my car the “Tractor” because you can hear it coming. Once I replace the diff rear diff gear all is quiet now.

A silly question. But are you put the 3 diff screws which hold the case together through the correct side. Eg when you look at the top of the car can you see the screw head buttons?

Ask them to build one for you!!
You never know what they might say. Then you'll know what it is if they don't go!!
Oli

You say that there is a lot of play.
Where? the 14t gear coming out the box
Diff (left to right). nope shimmed properly
Is the 14t gear moving in and out? yes
Or is the play all in the mess. yes lol
What shims are in what position? silver 0.2 on the crown side 0.1 copper on opposite


A silly question. But are you put the 3 diff screws which hold the case together through the correct side. Eg when you look at the top of the car can you see the screw head buttons? these are in correct way. :D

I don't think someone else building a diff will help. I'm sure that Captian can tighten up 4 screws correctly.


Come to think of it Captianlip, even if the 3 diff screw were not in the rear bulkhead should hold it together. It just if the 2 front screws are loose, you would have a lot of movement in the 14T shaft. :confused:

Let me have a quick look at mine, since it sitting next to me apart.

I have the rear diff out, and im sure its not had this in the past, but the 14t gear has a decent amount of play forward and backwards.

whats the gap between the 2 bearing in the 14T shaft when the bearings are fully pulled apart?

should be as per manual but there is play in the front towards the 14t gear, clearly needs a shim. :thumbdown:

picture

well there could be part of the problem, i only have a tape measure :lol: but even with that i can see its JUST over 3.0mm :mad::mad:

durango owe me some credit or spares

Now this is why you have a 3mm gap and how to fix it.

Undo the grub screw on the gear input driveshaft a little, then push it up the 14T shaft and re-tighten. This should give you at least 2.70 – 2.8.

If you have it pulled all the way out you will have the measurement of 3.00mm, which is too much movement of the shaft.

pulled all the way in! :mad: made sure of this each time it was rebuilt.

seen this link but where the hell do i find correct shims. :confused::confused:



http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-shim-fix.html

Poor lock it on the screw?
Did you use the one given in the kit?
Clean the parts and use good lock it.

the screw on the 14t gear?

The Durango importer may only consider a replacement if you return all the parts to examine and something is machined wrong.

I hard to see that all parts that you have purchased are machined wrong, but could be. But from the info from the last few messages it looks like the driveshaft has not been pushed on far enough. As the instruction says 2.8mm is the correct spacing. At 3mm you should of been asking the shop where you purchase the car about the measurement being wrong and why. This is why a shop makes money from us.

A question for Adam:
In the instruction it a cross next to the 2.00mm setting. No way could I ever get a 2mm setting if I tried. Should it read 3.00mm? That would make more sense and may stop this problem from happening again.

so basically i need to stick shims in there? as per link above? where the hell i get those!

thanks for the help, but i still feel durango are at fault and should be here offering replacement and support in extreme cases like this.

£100 already and still no functioning gearboxes. :thumbdown:

or you could make the slot in the shaft a little longer. I wouldn't use the shim method as it the moves the gear forward and you may not be able to space it out correctly with the diff shims.

I hoped all this helped you.

Is it time to go to bed?

sure is :lol: thanks!

dunno about the cutting out havent got a dremmel

IF you need to shim it, you just need some 5mm shims, something like

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD709015

I rebuilt one yesterday that had too much movement in the input shaft, I thought I would have to shim it, but cleaned it all out, and it closed up nicely with zero play.

Getting the mesh right is the key and no play anywhere.

Sounds to me like complete user error!

Are you running on carpet?
I would say the slipper is to tight, the kit setting is way to much, try backing it all the way to get slip then tighten, I've been running one all winter and only done 1 rear when I changed surface to astro.

Agree here. Fail to see how you can come on here claiming their built correctly when you have admitted having play in the input shaft.

Defiantly user error. My diffs have been fine since I built t it when they first came out

You should be apologizing to Durango.