Electrics in TLR 22
 

Hi guys... I'm due to get my 22 next week and cant wait!

but few things i wanted to ask people in preparation for when I get mine...

Firstly, why are so many people wiring their car so that they squeeze their speedo and receiver together upfront behind the servo instead of mounting the speedo on the specially designed plate covering the motor (this is for the mid motor build - I'm from UK so this is what I'll be running). Having motor wires sprawled all over the car looks messy as apposed to the simple neat and tidy way of having short motor wires with the speedo at the back of the car! Is it for weight distribution or is there a problem with speedo clearance on the bodyshell if you run it at the back??? or is it simply because this is how all previous mid motor cars have been wired?

And also, I'm unsure of what electrics to get! I had to sell up a lot of my kit at the end of last year so I have the joy of replacing them for this years outdoor season with the 22. Last year I ran a 6.5 brushless motor with a Nosram Pearl Evolution, and Vampire 4400 40c Lipos and I found this to be very driveable and competitive. However I'm now looking at buying the Pearl Evolution Version 2 with the additional boost and feel settings as this is the latest technology... but do I stay with 6.5 turn motor and buy new Lipo's with a 35/40c rating or do I go down on the motor to a 7.5 turn and go for the newer 60c lipos that are available??? I've been told that 6.5 turn with 60c lipo's is likely to be too agressive and so will be a right handful to drive!

I would appreciate any advice that you have to offer.....

Many thanks, Jon! :thumbsup:

The reason is because although the little plate is there for a reason, you can only fit really low profile/small speedos on the plate without it interfering with the bodyshell fitting, plus I have a pearl, and the receiver plug wire isn't long enough to stretch to the receiver. :/ plus you'll never get a fan on the speedo with it there.

various reason, but basically it is actually better down there. :)

I seeeeee! looks like I may have to invest in a low profile speedo then aswell.

Thanks, Jon

I'll be mounting mine on the motor plate, I'm running a Tekin RS which won't get in the way of the shell :)
I think the car will work better with it out back too, more weight up back the better :)

Same here. I am hopeful that my LRP SXX speedo will sit nicely on the motor plate and with a bit of clever wiring shouldn't cause an issue. Pics to follow tomorrow. :thumbsup:

Thats what brass was invented for ;)

I've set mine the other way: I run a Speed Passion GT2 which is not huge, but too large to have both esc and receiver up front (especially due to the large power capacitor). After much playing around I found the best layout was the esc up front but the receiver mounted on the plate.

I've got a slimline savox servo, full size Spektrum receiver (on it's side) and still loads of room for speedo passion gt speedo all in the space up front, will mount the capacitor on the receiver. Hopefully have speedo soon and will upload pic

That would be great - I too use the slimline savox and spektrum receiver

Message me your email address and I'll send the picture of how i laid out receiver and see the space for the speedo

Paul

Just got it sorted now Paul - didn't know I could do jigsaws!

I've placed receiver on its side down the LHS, speedo went on the right with the solder terminals running along the RHS and capacitor on top of servo. Managed to get it all in without removing the battery brace.

Sounds about right, although I have took battery brace out for a tad more room

low profile Servos and TLR22?
 

Low profile servos seem to be easier to install in TLR22...What are your recommendations?
Are Savox ones a good choice regarding fiability ?

I got a savox low profile last year and it is brilliant. Strong and quick. What more is needed:thumbsup:

I ran my Lrp sphere comp on the motor plate, no heat problems at all, only thing was I filed a angle on the heatsink so it doesn't touch the shell. There is a piece in the top of the cab of the shell you can cut out to allow air to pass over the speedo when it's mounted here too :)

Don't see the point in cramping everything up front, seems people are doing it because they can squeeze it all in for looks rather than function ?

I've loads of room spare up front that gives me options for running either the new small lipo or saddles (they are different lengths) also I've lots of room for weight if I need to add any.

Also with a low profile servo, I can run a full size stick lipo if I just pop the reciever on top of it :)

Hi,

Uploaded for Paul Upton, shows the room available.

Thanks Paul

Looks? Works for me! :p

That's with the Tekin RS, of course. I doubt that I'll be able to squeeze my SPX Zero into the front that I need for participating in the LRP Offroad Challenge.

mmmm.....
 

i find all your posts interesting i thought that its all about balance/handling. from my boring cars days that was our main goals. ive got servo up front, followed by receiver, batts, speedo on plate. I ve had to cut a triangle on left hand side of body shell and also roof to allow for the height of speedo......

Dan

Not quite finished the build yet but fitted the electrics tonight. These pics might help one or two of you, plenty of room for the shell with this config.

Had to mount the pt a little further away from the receiver as i`d like to of done to prevent interferrence.

Looking forward to giving it a run :thumbsup:


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...3URY/losi1.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...3URY/losi2.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...3URY/losi3.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...3URY/losi5.jpg

looks good dude! does the batttery stay put with straps on as the from bar is tother way round?

Hey Russ

Cheers ! Not fitted the straps yet but i`ll tweak it if needs be. Got the foam spacers to wedge the lipo in too remember !

Im amazed you got the shell to fit rich, with the speedo that high. I notice that, yes the shell fits, but it looks a bit 'lop-sided' and not sitting central.
May not bother most people, but it really did my head in on mine. I have the same speedo but with the small heat sink, and I mounted it so low it was touching the cells and the sensor wire went down in between the rear cell and the bulkhead, and the shell still wouldn't sit properly.

So I just put it up front. The Speedo does get a little bit warm even with the heatsink on, so didn't dare run it without one. lol

Nice work... certainly the neatest I've seen on here yet! I knew it would look SOOOO much neater with the speedo mounted on the specially designed plate but thought there must have been a bloody good reason why people were not using it?!!!

Nobody's given me a really good reason why they squeeze it all upfront apart from heat issues but I cant imagine that would be a problem - I think this is definitely the layout I'll build mine to! Except I'll be using full size saddle lipo's I think!

Still not sure about the short lipo... is it supposed to provide same power and run time as the normal size lipo's??? just seems a wee strange to me! Do I assume correct that you would need to add additional weight to the car to compensate for the smaller batter??

Looking good, Jon!

My shell sits like that and the speedo is up front. Only noticed it about 20 mins ago so will have a look tomorrow.

Hey Tel,

I think i just need to dremel a little bit more from around the spur gear cover mate. Its not touching any of the electrics but i took your advice about not cutting to the provided lines and so dremel a little at a time ! The Factory points for the body posts on the sides sem spot on but the front hole is a little too far forward i found ! This is just my spare shell i used to make sure that the electrics would fit anyway :)

Trimmed a little off the lipo brace at the front to make it easier to get the lipo out as theres a Rudebits weight underneath it which raises the lipo slightly. As for the heat issue, if it overheats ill have a rethink but im quietly confident it wont with sensible gearing.

I race along side Nick Gurnell quite a lot and thought similarly to you when i saw he never used a fan in his 4WD Durango ! To his credit he was right, its never thermalled once despite getting warm so im pretty confident that this shouldnt either !

See you Sunday dude

Rich

Cheers for the compliment Jon, if it overheats i`ll have to eat my words. As for runtime, 3800 MAH is plenty of capacity for 2WD, i reckon you`d get close to 10 minutes runtime out of one full charge so plenty for 5 minute races. Its 60C too. Running the battery centrally gives you the option of adding more weight along side of course but in truth, theres nothing wrong with saddles either. I ordered a couple of these as i tend to run dedicated lipos for each class i race.

double post :s

my shell is lob sided too!

ive cut away some of the shell but ive found it to be the pre marked dimple for the body holes they are all slighty off.

so many issue with the shells ive heard a guy at my club is building 3 :woot: and all of them have burn marks round the edges, where they come off the molds

The shell sits at an angle on an empty car, and I think the burn marks on the shell is where it’s been cut out with a freaking "lazer" beam.:lol:

After drilling mine to the marks and then trying to fit it I realised that the marks are not 100% accurate so now tempted to get another shell and use velcro this will also sort out the lop-sidedness.

I thought it was just me with the lop sided problem but I think that I need to get another shell and make the holes before painting to get it spot on. I have found that the plastic parts on the straps can make the shell rise if they are not pushed around so that they sit as low in the side pods as possible.

Does look really good that install, particularly like the arrangement with the motor wires, very tidy indeed. I think maybe the reason some people prefer the electrics on the deck is just to keep all the weight as low down as possible, but how much difference it would make in the real world is probably not significant.

think i might go velcro too, going to get a pro shell done for the summer. might make it that little bit more streamline :D haha

Im working on something with rich and MR Jolly front wing maker that i think will work really well,ill get some pics up when its finished:thumbsup:

Yes, this is the best way to mount the shell, velcro holds it much better, i have removed all the body posts now.

Going to move the capacitor behind the speedo when i can get some narrow gauge silicone cable.

Here is mine rear motor, so do you think anything will touch the shell? i had to do it without it as it got sent directly from the shop to my painter

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/efa555dd.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/9b0a9e55.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/02d2f68c.jpg

Your the bollocks Foppa!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Do you need to have a low profile server or would standard size(like a savox 1258) fit ok?

here's mine

will be rewired once the new wire turns up

http://s1100.photobucket.com/albums/...view=slideshow