DESC410R - SHORT COURSE SETUP
 

Hey, here's a sticky for talking about setups for the SC Durango.

I need some info on servo saver setups, the manual doesn't seem to show how far the nut should be tightened. I've tested it by hand and it seems ok, but a recommended setup would be good!

Won't it be the same as the 410 ? Nah scratch that it's totally different ;)

I recommend putting threadlock on the adjustment nut and the screw that fixes it to the servo. I've had both come loose. Suppose I should have been more safe and applied it to start with, but i didn't. If the screw comes out, you loose the spring and everything if you're not lucky.

If you don't have the roll bar set, i would recommend that too. I don't have it so have put 1000cst all round in the shocks (for indoors) just to stop it rolling or digging in too much.

DESC410R Gear Ratios
 

Hi I just tested my DESC for a few batteries and have to tell you I am very impressed, switching from a Slash4x4 is a major difference ...but what about
gearing ratio recommendations ? I actually run a LRP 6.5 540 Motor with a 17 teeth pinion and the motor starts to heat up very much ...So I would like to switch to a 550 Motor, but not having any Module 1 pinions I wondered if someone already had experience with 550 Motors in the durango ? So what sizes do I should start purshasing pinions ...
Any recommendations about motors 550 ? I am struggling between LRP and Novak.

A short recommendation for the kit set up: Insert a 7mm washer in the inside of the rear shock body under the pistons, the droop the car originally had is way too much and the car will body roll a lot.

If you want to go up to the mod1 pinions its more a question of how big your track is and what wind of 550 you are thinking of. Assuming just a general range and a 5.5t or a 4.5t i would start with 12-15t pinions. I run a 5.5t Novak Ballistic motor in mine and run 13t indoors on a medium sized track and 14t or 15t on the bigger outdoor track thats just loamy wet dirt. If you were going to run the 4.5t you may want to go down a tooth. This truck doesnt need mind blowing throttle like the old generation of 4wd SCTs. The old gen trucks (jammin,hyper,traxxas) laps went like this "fight through the turn with poor steering, blast full throttle to the next turn, fight some more with poor steering, full throttle to the next turn" etc. This truck you can actually cut your throttle way back and focus on your lines.:thumbsup:

I ran the Tekin 6.5 motor (540) with 23T pinion!!! You are very undergeared I think.
I would like to try one of the high-torque rotors for the Tekin motor and I think you can get such things for your LRP also. I haven't tried a 550 motor.

We run a 20T pinion in our review truck with a 5.5T LRP Vector X12 OctaWind. The motor gets some temperature but is far away from being too hot.

thanks for the answers, but does undergearing also create overheating ? I will test a few pinions this weekend. Our home track is not very big, but very technical (MVB in NL) , and I already was blown away of the way the truck handles. For the 550 I will get a 6.5 Novak I guess, I need torque and not so much speed.
With the Slash 4x4 I used a Graupner Stock 10.5 that produces nearly 600 watt and is so powerfull in torque that you nearly cant rotate it by hand...very impressive motor but the rotor axle came loose a second time so looking for something new... and reliable.

Undergearing can create heat issues however this truck is funny about torque.

I thought the same thing coming from the older gen 4wd SCT's and was playing with gearing, motor combo's, even higher c batteries trying to get it to unleash like the older vehicles. In all honesty, it makes you slower. This truck doesnt like to be driven hard and tossed around, it likes to be driven more like a touring car. Its so stable and controllable all you need to do is hold your line and maintain your pace. From the drivers stand it will feel slow and punchless, mine still does, but im turning laps faster than some of the 1/8th ebuggies and once i saw a video someone shot of my truck i realized how fast it really is. Dont look for torque and punch out of the turns unless you really need it for a specific part of the track, if making that double into a triple helps your lap times that much then go for it but i think you will find that keeping this truck smooth will do a lot more for your lap times.

Video Link Here

you are totally right about the way the car handles, its awsome. Last club race I directly won and this with just 3 batteries I drove before after assembling. The problem is that nearly everyone else is driving a 550 motor set now with 4.5 or 5.5 turns and they forced me to give a 120% so a little bit more punch will be needed to get them off my a..., still driving a 540 6.5 turns motor ...
I think about a 550 5.5 LRP set or the novak ballistic 6.5, I guess the LRP is less torquey and smoother which will support my driving style which is smooth around the track. last year I was using a 10.5 stock Graupner with a lot of torque in my Slash 4x4 but this saison with no motor limits does not work any longer...

cant find it in the forum, how can I compare the Durango cts Oil viscosity with other brands like losi wt ?

Durango Shock Oil Comparison Chart

thanks , crazy that I cant find it on the durango site ....:woot:

You have to go to 'in the pits' theres a bunch of pulldowns for different cars and tracks. Under one that says 'blanks/masters' there is a bit for tuning something. :thumbsup:

For fun
 

Just bought myself a DESC410R to have some fun with, gonna run some old leftover electronics in it.

5.5 ZTW Sensored 540 motor, LRP Sphere Competition esc, and a low profile 8kg Hitec servo, am running on the what 102tooth 48dp spur, and was thinking of going with a 24tooth pinion, will that be to much, should i go for 22tooth pinion instead ?

Have a look at Adam's setups on the TD site mate. He ran a 540 for a while. Its probably on the setup sheet somewhere. Failing that, PM him.(Adam Skelding).

setup problem.
 

Can anyone help me out with loose rear end.
The track i smooth clay with low traction.
When i release the throttle the rear end become very unstable.
I use 30 000 front 30 000 center and 10 000 rear.
It also over steer on power and under steer off power.
Any suggestion?:confused:

Carpet set-up for DESC410r
 

Has anybody got a decent starting setup for carpet? I've looked on TD's site, Petit RC and browsed a few forums, but can't find a completed setup sheet..

For reference, I have the centre diff rather than the locked diff..

Im no expert at setups but i had a good run round last night on a mostly carpet track with a few slippy bits,

Front shocks- 1.2x6 piston, 600cst, dark red springs

Rear shocks- 1.3x6 piston, 450cst, dark red spring

Rear diff 2000cst, mid diff 5000cst, front diff 7000cst

anti roll bars all round, 1.5 front 1.3 rear taken from my DEX410

Rear shocks outer hole on the tower.

all the other links and shock mountings as per manual

schumacer yellow mini pins all round

hope this helps , i was in the same boat as you so just had a play seems to be ok but im sure it can be improved.

Thanks for the reply. I've got a couple of options now. I have been reliably informed that Adam Skeldings A1 setup from the Durango site works well on carpet (by Adam), and fortunately for me, I have what I need to apply it to my Truck..

I'll let you know how I get on with it.. I haven't cut the inner and outer rows of spikes on the front tyres yet, as they are worn a bit and once done, there's no turning back.... But will be taking side cutters with me and will have no hesitation in choping them up if need be..:thumbsup:

could some one let me know how tight they are doing the servo saver,
thanks

I have about 2mm of thread showing. Make sure you threadlock your servo screw - I found it worked loose very easily.

thanks jimmy:thumbsup:

Hi,Just wonder what the advantage`s are of running the longer front shock,
do you run the long shock shaft with it or is it just the team that its running them,
thanks.

I run the 29mm on the front of mine. The stock 23mm ones only allow the front arms to droop to about level. The 29mm ones allow much more droop and work really well if you run on a 1/8 size track or even a smaller track if its rough or has big jumps. The 29mm are almost a bit too long which is why the team guys are running the 29mm bodies with the 23mm shafts.

thanks Culetto,ill get some for when we go outdoor:thumbsup:

could someone see if they can notice in my setup why coming into a corner off power,the car will want to rotate from the rear,the car is awsome everywere else on the track,its just the fast corners,as you back off it goes light on the rear,its not diving anymore and the front is really good,im running mini spikes,
front,
shocks,600td oil 6x1.3 kit spring,
middle on tower and arm,
camberlink outer middle,2mm washer on hub,
upper hole on hub pin,
thick antiroll bar,
7000 diff oil,


50,000 center diff oil

rear,
4mm washers inside,2mm washers outside,45 losi oil 6x1.3 kit spring,
second hole in on tower outside on arm,
camberlink outer lower,middle on hub,
lower hole on hub pin,
no antiroll bar
2000 diff oil
2mm rear hinge pin holder,
TD side weights

because you have a really light diff oil rear compared to front i wud try 7000 front and 5000 rear and if that helps maybe try 10000 in both i run 10k in both in my buggy mite work for sc aswell but making the rear diff oil heavier should help your problem

thanks,iv got 7k so ill stick that in instead of the 2k:thumbsup:

hello all a couple of questions,

1 - does anyone have a good base setup for this truck on a medium traction grass track?

2 - im currently running the out of box setup and i am noticing quite alot of body roll causing the truck to roll over if i turn the corner to quick. i am told from someone watching the truck yesterday that the front is too soft and could to do with a stiffer spring. i am thinking of gluing two holes of the piston up and running 4 hole pistons on all four shocks, would this make a difference?

many thanks

lewis

Here you go matey, only grass setup i found

http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...g_05_06_11.pdf

desc 410r v2 setup help
 

Hi I just bought a desc v410r v2 and was wondering if anyone can help me with a starting setup. I race on a clay indoor track that starts wet and then dries out with decent traction and I have a outdoor track in my backyard that is hard with lots of dust most of the time. Looking for diff fluids and shock wt mainly.\

thanks for the help
Robbie

Check out the "in the pits" section on the TD website buddy. Loads of setups on there which I'm sure would suit your needs. Truck is awesome. My last meeting was on a hard packed clay track and the truck was sensational.

re:
 

I looked at them but they were so different. I was thinking that I would put 10k front and rear 50k center and 60 wt front and 45 rear. The setups were so varied that I am not sure where to start. I am pretty new to rc and the kits I have built had the dif fluids and stuff layed out.

any help would be great.

thanks Robbie

help needed with rear sliding out desc410
 

hi all

been trolling the net and just cant seem to nail down a good way to go with setting up my desc410 at my local astro track.... so many different opinions out there on diff oils etc etc springs but i m a bit lost..

the thing just looses the rear end under power on fast bends ...its like i can almost drift with the thing if i had the skills to controll it! cant go more than 1/4 throttle on a long fast bend or it goes!

track is astro, always damp, and slippery but had same issue when it was dry in the summer!

current setup
diffs.... 7 7 5
shocks front 42 dark blue
shocks rear 42 red
tyres dboots A multibite
tekin 5.5 550 motor
saddle packs
rear shocks laid down
fronts up a bit more

any advice or tricks would be great....

cheers

jon

What track and do you have the V1 or 2.
PM me your email addy and i will send you a set up sheet :thumbsup:
I think your trouble could mainly be with tyres and springs

410
 

Cheers pm sent!