set ups
 

So what set ups do you guys run
Tyres, ride height, gearing etc

Having trouble with the back end just flicking out

Thanks
Rich

Hi rich

there's quite a good thread in general car talk, mardave v12 set up, found it earlier in week and replied to bring it to the front :thumbsup:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31024

Thanks man... didnt see that :P

Did drop a PM to jimmy to ask to move the thread over to here, mind you, didn't realise he was the big boss at oople at that point....busy man :cry: (not sarcastic)

I had the same with my V12, but had the help from an experienced racer :

1 - Tyre additive, all on the rears, and about 1/2 cm on the inside of the fronts. Helps a LOT!

2 - changew the fronts, i got different compound (cant remember what, sorry!) and trued to IIRC 43mm

3 - if possible set the EPA on your car to less, so the steering isnt as 'much'

i did this, and went from an uncontrollable car one night to being regularly placed in the top 3 of the B final, and came 1st within about a month of starting v12 racing

so tyre additive is the biggest help, the trued tyres second and if you can set the EPA to control the servo motion.

everything else is standard.

IMHO cornering is the secret to V12 carpet, you can make it up on straights if you have the speed (i am brushless and race against brushed) but if you cant get round the bends you will lose time, and v12 is more about the corners than the straights.

I would suggest Jap 44-46's on the front trued to 46mm,and V53 or V54 on the rear as a start. Not all clubs allow additive to be used on Daves, especially those that run to the BRCA regs. If you can learn to drive without using additive,then you'll perform far better in a sanctioned race than you would using additive. Personally I've never used the stuff,I leave that to the 1/12 pan-car boys.

Grooved Foams / what's all this about then?

what does it do for tyre wear, handling etc

what are the benifits if any?

what’s the best way to do it?

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN2103.jpg

http://www.oople.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18802&stc=1&d=12926273 06

Glenn, it lets the foams 'move' / flex more giving more rear grip, I found it made alot of diffference in both oval and circuit tracks. It does decrease the grip on the front though which is why I added 30g to the front which helped to balance it and also bring the front grip back.

Carl

No good having a good set up if your King Pins & Steering Blocks are binding. Take your time and make sure there free just like at the end of this video. These are used parts and on reassembly they needed some degree of wiggling to get them free'd up.

Rear Axle / Shimming the end float.

just shimmed mine out with a shim from 12th pancar axle. Had to file it out a little though.

one thing I might do instead is file the axle were the flats & shoulder are so the spacer can sit futher on.

anyone found any shims that fit with out the need to file the inner hole out?

How I sorted a binding ball raced wheel

Rear Foams

what's the smallest you can run on the rears?

Ground clearance dictaits this, most clubs adopt the 3mm ground clearance, with 1mm under the gear. You can keep the same gear ratio with a bit of calculation as the tyres wear down.

I have the spreadsheets to do rollout but would like to know the minimum so I can set the spreadsheet up. Maximum used would be nice also if anyone knows it.

Just read the following on a sale item

What effect & benefits does it have on the handling if any?

I have tried this along time ago, personally didnt like it, made the back end un-predictable and skipped out uncontrolably. Interested to see the reply. :confused:

You guys are talking setup, but I don't see what springs your using?
how far down are you guys doing the nuts up on the rear springs?
What additive can be used?
what shell is best?

Your answers please guya

Cheers Malc

You guys are talking setup, but I don't see what springs your using?
how far down are you guys doing the nuts up on the rear springs?
What additive can be used?
what shell is best?
What kick up on the front, and what does it give you?

Your answers please guys

Cheers Malc

on mine I have, hard front springs, on the rear I have medium with jap 52 foams on the front and pink mediums on the rear

Nuts, set them so you have 1 to 2mm clearance between the bottom of the motor plate and the chassis when you have the car fully loaded

2mm of washers between the A arm and chassis using the front mounting hole for king pin castor

90 % of mardave setup is rear tires
run silicone tube instead of spings on the front with 4mm caster on the front
rear should be 1mm of sag with soft spings
rear tires should be about 52mm
if ur cars kicking out run 52 japs on the front with superglue run around the outside rim if ur car understeers go down the compounds on the front
i was 2nd mardave national my brother was first
once u have the car balanced u should be able to run 100% on everything on ur speedo and crave more speed
rear diff should have 12 balls and run as loose as possible before it slips
and dont forget the nylon battery trays i make the cells run flat on the chassis lowering the centre of gravity and u can run ur cells offset to counter the motor
1st 2nd 3rd and 4th at the nationals
if u use lots of additive on the rear u should use 2 pairs,one one week then the other the next giving them time to dry out ,additive will soften the tire and ruin the that why one week u will go ace the next e final
then u can play with shells and small tune ups ,there the bits u fine tune the car with

Is the above for a brushless Dave or Dave's in general?

How much tubing do you use?
Enough so the chassis has no front droop or are we looking for a little droop?

4mm caster
is that 4 mm of spacing or 4mm of incline as measured from the top of the king pin?

dont forget the nylon battery trays
you have funds ;)

Definately some good tips here. Ive been running silicone tubing on the front for quite some time (before i semi retired from racing and now making a return) Im going to experiment this time around with some nortech whities instead of the tubing. I think the degree of castor depends on the tightness of the track, but i always run a minimum of 2*1mm washers under the front of the wishbones (2deg castor) just for stability if nothing else. The tip about tyres and additive again, good tip, not tried it, but certainly makes alot of sense.
Spomething that i have found alot of people doing at my local track, is not using the sub trim to centre the steering servo properly, simply leads to unbalanced steering, doesn't sound much of a tip, but makes quite a big difference. ;)

enjoy as I'm not making another one:lol:

battery tray on itsway buddy
run silicon tube the full hieght of the king pin but about 1mm short so it doesnt bind the steering , i leave the springs on aswell to take up the slack
i put washers under the front wishbones ,a general rule is the more washers the more hi speed bite u will remove thus allowing u to run gripper tyres for the low speed corners without spinning out ,think of caster on a shopping trolley,
the last tip and one of the most important is if u use a fast servo turn the speed down ,if it turns the steering to fast u will simply wash the front out ,the car should drive round the corner ,if it locks over to fast the car wont steer properly till the cornering speed is reduced,ive got a corelesss futaba turned down to 60%

:)

Springs & Tubing :o, why?

Might have experienced this last night after fitting a RC Dynamics booster to power the servo. I'll try next time without. Don't think my DX3s will slow the servo down thought, I may be wrong. Servo's a Savox 1251MG

i run the springs over the top of the tubing just to take up the last bit of slack ,if the tubings to big it binds the steering to smal and the from end drops ,its just easier and the tubing takes a bit of stick

are u using a diff

Tried with and without, a diff helps a little. But it's by no real solution

the diff should help alot run it as loose as possible just before it slips,dont tighten ur rear wheel nuts up full as it will make the diff bind ,turn the wheel nuts the wrong way around this helps
if u run small tyres on the back the chassis will botton out in corners
are u sure ur additive is not attacking ur wheel tape or glue ,its common for it to soften the adesive or glue so when u corner the tyre peels slightly and will let the back end snag then brake away and chunk, try running ur thumb across the tyre see if it lifts from the rim

possible daft question but is a standard motor always used?

A tight wheel rim fitment onto the diff side of the axle also makes the diff bind up. This is because it's a solid axle and the diff side wheel needs to spin freely on the axle. As mentioned above don't tighten down the nut as this will make it bind up even if the wheel is free to rotate on the axle. I reamed my new rim out so it was free but older ones should rotate freely.

Front End Droop

racing 12th pan cars we run a little droop circa 0.5mm

do the Mardave's need some??

Rear guide pin
 

Hi all

Still sorting out my 2nd hand mardave v12 - was wondering what difference would it make not having the rear guide pin and screws in the motor mount?

Noticed recently that they weren't there so ordered a new rear guide pin, however today when attempting to fit it realised that the oval piece of plastic that the rear guide pin actually goes into is not there either, so would it make much difference if I just don't use it?


cheers
matt

Yes,

The motor pod can move sideways without it, you will also need an O ring inside the oval shaped bit that screws onto the motor pod, not essential but recommended.

Cheers Stox

Ordered the O rings a while ago too, so had them waiting to go - in terms of the movement though, wouldn't the screws that hold the rear springs in prevent any sideways movement?

(can't seem to find the part number for the oval piece of plastic, just the new motor plate itself :cry:)


edit: oh, I think I see what you mean now.....the way that the car was set up when I received it was wrong then, as the rear screws that hold the springs in place actually bolted through the chassis (probably to make up for the fact that the rear guide pin and screws weren't there) thus holding the motor plate to the chassis......


So, what my original question should have asked then, will be there be any real difference if the rear motor plate is bolted on via the rear spring screws - rather than by using the rear guide pin? recognise the current way means that the rear springs are actually redundant - so there's my answer then I suppose :)

Mounting Foams

Here's my efforts http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_biggrin.png

which tape do you use?

Duct tape from B&Q which I've had for a while now is very much the same as the one supplied by Mardave which I though't I'd try. Mardave's tape is rim width but it's no hard ship to cut the B&Q one doanw once on the rim.

MuchMore racing have a tape out, any good?

there's an audio swap ongoing so will change soon I hope

Great vid yet again. Ive been using evo stick for years.... as you so rightly put it, it can indeed be rayther messy. Will give this method a try soon. Thanks again. :thumbsup:

:blush: thanks

just don't do this in the kitchen like I did if your partners in the house :D

Mounted some softs to front rims using the above method and thought I wreck them getting them off to put harder foams on but the softs peeled of without tearing so I should be able to re-use them.

and don't watch the video when their next to you like I just did :woot:

got away with it as she didn't recognise her kitchen :D