First test of my prototype
 

X7, i did the math :thumbsup:

I've been working on a new idea, and today i could finally test it on the track.
X6 is a wonderful car, but we can't stop the development, right? :D

I'm just hating saddle packs, and refuse to use 'em, but wanted to change the layout on the car. I noticed the difference already on the first lap, it jumps much better, and is much quicker around tight turns then the original. My fastest lap with the squared is 28,0, with the X7 i did a 27,64. It's a bit more difficult to drive, the rear is more loose, and demands more of the driver. But with more tests and setups it might be more forgiving.
This is just a quick build prototype to test the idea, and I will make a carbon fibre chassis later.
This is the beast:

that looks alot better than the saddle pack i think your on the money with this i think this is what X factory should bring out and not the saddle pack
good work!!!
try running greens springs on the rear with NO 1 pistons that should help with a more planted rear!!!!!
second hole out from the inside of tower and out side hole on the arm you may find its got to much grip on the rear now and 30w oil allround!!!

Huhaaa, thats a RRRadical modification:thumbsup:

Nice, shure workx.

We will see how X-Daddy and the machinery:) will surprise us in the next year.

I didn't play around with the setup, i used the same as on the X6 to compare.

The idea was just to test this one a few laps, but i think i will run it on the next race :thumbsup:

just buy a cougar!:lol:

Why would i buy a low quality car when i have a XFactory with the best rear and front end on the market.

Nice. Just wondering why you've mounted the speed controller and receiver on the same side of the chassis. Is it to counter balance the weight of the motor?

Simple reason, the cable between RX and ESC was to short :lol:
But after i mounted it, i saw, just like you, that it compensate the motor weight.

Really looking forward to seeing the end result :thumbsup:.

Nice job :) I think the Team C / Ansmann mid is going to allow the stick battery to go either way but I'd have to have another look to be sure, I was just converting mine when they announced the new chassis so now I'm just waiting for the parts instead :) (lazy)

It can't be that bad, i ended up 2'nd in the last race, my best result ever :thumbsup:

Still waiting for parts for the carbon version.

Small progress. I'm still playing around and having fun with my new milling mashine.

If that's Proline Calibers try going out with them turned the other way around, and you'll get a lot more forward bite!

Nice work! Keep in mind though that the Schumacher Cougar SV already takes stickpacks along the centerline of the chassis! :thumbsup:

(for those who want a car like that without all the modification work...)

Razer, when are you gonna try it??? Put that vintage XXX-CR on the shelf now and go for it!

Who wants a Schumacher :confused:

I'm aware of the tires Razor, if you don't mean inside out? :D

No offence, I'm sure your project/mod will be great! Just trying to say it's not really a new idea as there is a mid motor car for sale already with this battery layout :p

I saw from the Euros that some french guys have also been running a custom made car with mid motor and a stickpack along the center, with great success it seemed.

Does the Cougar SV have the same wheelbase as the X-6, S2 etc? (is it longer?) Looks like your proto is quite a bit longer, how much vs. standard?

Say what you like, but the solution from Schuey as to the steering servo looks smart!
http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Car_Sh...ering_1000.jpg

wrong

I've never said it was a new idea.

Mine is 9mm longer then standard, and about the same wheelbase as a RB5, the only car i've compared it to. The real version will be shorter.

According to owners the Cougar steering is a pain in the *ss to work with.

I own a cougar sv and the steering is verry easy to work with and i like the fact you dont need to use a silly low profile servo ..

What's wrong with low profile servos? IMHO you'd have to be stupid to still buy regular size servos these days...

Hottuna: Nice job man, I know the guys who race the french car and I had the chance to try it, it's very very good indeed.

...no, of course you didn't! :lol::lol::lol:

Just kidding, enjoy your project Søta Bror! :thumbsup:

Yeah but cougars at sh*t, it need to be easy to work on as you are changing the servo horns week in and week out. I sold a perfectly good X6 to buy a bag of sh*t cougar what i totally regret so far.

It was new for me, but not a new consept. I've understood you don't like what i do, just stop looking in this thread then.

Sounds great :thumbsup:
Do you know how much flex the chassis has? I think i will make mine quite soft.

there is a huge difference between a low profile servo of 0.09 speed, compared to 0.06 for the quickest regular size servo. I will never go back to anything slower than 0.06 servos

I Think you should look at the purple metal servo horns savox make if you are having problems with the plastic horns :D or just stop crashing into things :p

Some progress :) I have little time to spend on the build, but finally all parts for the rear end are ready, and bolted on the CF plate.

???

As far as I know there isn't any servo that does 0.06s/60°... And I've just double checked on all the manufacturer's websites...

The only one i can think of thats 0.06/60° is the HS-7940TH!
Its an awesome servo but there abit over kill for an RC car!

HS as in a Hitec servo? I would not put one of these piece of c.... in any of my cars !!!!!

Besides it's 0.06V under 7.4V, goes up to 0.07 under 6V, and no one these days operate their servos direct from the cells...

I'm not a fan of hyper fast servos anyway. If you're into fast steering, you can change the speed by adjusting the ratio.
The fact that i have to use a low profile one doesn't bother me.
The thread isn't about servos anyways, i just want to show my progress about my new car.

No one mentioned operating voltage just speed :)
There designed to operate at 7.4v and there not just for RC use I sell loads for other applications!

O and good job with the car Hottuna

KO 2123 is 0.06 though @ 7.2V with LIPO likely faster. I have 4 still as think they are great, specfically when recevier voltage is an issue (old Spektrum problem) being direct powered from the lipo is reasurring.

That said I have chosen to run a Savox in my 2wd now and KO2133 (older slower 6V) in the truck to smooth the steering out some.

I had a low profile Futaba servo and didn't like it, didn't feel it had the guts of the 2123 so went back.

Is the handling noticeably different over the stock battery location? Are the laptimes faster with the battery down the centerline of the chassis?

Yes, and yes :thumbsup: Better laptimes, but more important, i can run better laptimes without pushing 110%. It's so easy to drive.

Savox SH-1290MG 0.05/60deg 5.00Kg/cm at 6V, 0.06/60deg 4.00Kg/cm at 4.8V

I like fast servo , I always can slow it down when needed.

JR Z9100S specs at 6v are
0.06/60deg
torque 180 oz/in (13 kg/cm)

there is no other servo that I know of that has both high speed and high torque.

I bought one for my car, and was that impressed that I'm going to buy them for all of my fleet :thumbsup:

We are constantly moving things back, not forward. Yes, especially on high-grip U.K. tracks you need weight up front, and the U.K. guys have gone to the saddle chassis because newer, heavier LiPo stick packs put too much weight outside, but for most tracks we are moving things back.

We tested a stick down the center chassis back in '07. It was horrible. We had to cut out far too much bracing and the flex skyrocketed. Some may like that -- the plastic chassis sells well and works well on some tracks. But we found the experimental chassis just too flexy; so much so that we were afraid it would break on big triple jumps.

Funny how we like things different Chazz :) I'm sure the world would be boring if we didn't.

I've raced and trained with my non serious prototype build. Before i put it on the track the first time i was happy if it would hold a few laps, just to test the feeling.
It turned out well, and i choosed to race it the last 2 races in the swedish summer cup, i ended 2'nd on a low level grip, and 5'th on a high level grip track. Normally i struggle to get to the A-main in all races.
Lap times aren't much different, but the car is so nice and easy to drive, it feels like i'm driving at 80%, but still as fast as before, when i pushed 110%, and made mistakes.
We all have different driving styles, and this seems to suit me :)

My heart still belongs to X6, and the family, don't worry :thumbsup:

Hey Hottuna!
I just put the lipo down the middle of my x-60 after reading about your success. I race in the USA. I will be trying it out this weekend and I will post my results and some pics. With the x-60 having a longer chassis u can leave the servo in the stock position. No need to put it upright.
Tommy