Team C TC04 Build thread (Ansmann X4 Pro) (TQ Racing SX10-4)
 

Ok here we go!:), I must thank Dennis from rcmart/dinball for going out his is way to get a car for me that he doesn't normally stock and tcmodels for setting some kind of EMS postage record getting the tyres and swaybars here in 3 days.

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-kkckf...mtxt9wcirk.jpg

The Box very pretty

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-np3j4...xa3kakmix9.jpg

Inside the box, even better

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-eerxm...6h3kcpai9y.jpg

Part bags :thumbsup:

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-jh3iu...14w75qbcqd.jpg

The chassis and the first part of the build

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-qmat8...tkg96usi2h.jpg

The only real problem so far was this alloy motor mount, one of the holes wasn't tapped all the way into the hole, which resulted in this. A second hole was also short but I managed to still seat the screw with some effort. Tomorrow I'll shorten a screw and then that will get a screw in the dodgy hole :)

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-th4kf...p3w6fi5rqd.jpg

So for now it's only held in with two screws, I don't have a 3mm tap so I might just buy the option mount.

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-rmd8n...ek83h8j8ah.jpg

Moving right along and forgetting the thread issue for now, the diffs were assembled, Sorry we missed a picture of them half going together but they are pretty standard a little tight spot on one of them but not too bad and it should smoothen out. Please note the front diff in this shot is back to front :) don't do this since I had to open the case and flip it around later :).

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-dtdjj...9rjdiscnhh.jpg

Here's the rear diff, I could have used just two shims here, but 3 made it snug so I used 3, So I only used 1 in the front diff (only had one left) It seems ok with just one but perhaps could have fitted 2 in there. The rear definitely needed at least two (the instructions suggest one but you get 4 in the kit).

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-r3gqa...bu4n8d2i2k.jpg

One of the diffs complete

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-tjn7w...y5gjx2tbk6.jpg

The completed slipper, very nice bit of hardware, the spur had a bit of a wobble in it like usual so I've tightened the slipper right up to see it it ill get convinced to be a straighter in the morning

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-gr4i3...ciucy43ufu.jpg

Since the slipper is so lovely you can see it twice :)

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-tgxud...3exd2ixy2d.jpg

Here we have the slipper installed, still looking lovely

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-n7t38...2jpxcniajt.jpg

And one overhead shot :)

Team C TC04 Build thread (Ansmann X4 Pro) (TQ Racing SX10-4)
 

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-8jm57...qtsgyjryfp.jpg

Lets take some time to sit back and see where we are up to now

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-cpeeg...rrna57upta.jpg

Steering installed

http://img.skitch.com/20100803-c65ih...sac6x96jw4.jpg

Front upper brace and front shock tower mount installed

It was very late at night when we started the build so that's where we called it quits, we will finish the car and the thread tomorrow :)

Ok back now :)

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-kiy6m...y1s35gnp6f.jpg

Front shock tower installed

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-gmtd9...6rmr9r6jgd.jpg

Rear tower installed

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-qn2c7...xdxtwbwg68.jpg

Overview of the car so far

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-qengb...58xh4ijsdp.jpg

Looking down the front of the car

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-q9kwa...1ha51smxd3.jpg

Spur cover installed

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-8nb73...rsum4uqaq7.jpg

One again the entire car

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-gtf7s...57njetjrym.jpg

Side profile

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-t4tji...st1txxxnam.jpg

Showing the crush tube spacer thing that goes between the bearings and the 10 degree hubs (the kit comes with both 10 and 13 degree hubs), I installed the first one I grabbed randomly for starters, which were the 10s

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-8m2b2...wf9gb9ad6k.jpg

Front arm and hub installed

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-qu9jd...qpkgnrxfks.jpg

Underneath the front end

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-dw2md...t1dy8nm6rc.jpg

Close up of the front hex adapter and roll pin that presses into the axel

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-qn1m6...ryfe5k23xa.jpg

Front end wide shot

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-f46q3...78anuhdg4s.jpg

Close up of the roll pin before being knocked into the axle

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-m3daq...17fs2bd53c.jpg

Loosening a couple of screws to easily get the rear arms on

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-dxp9j...8kx8k2bjce.jpg

Overview so far

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-ktyre...js2atb8srm.jpg

And from the back

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-df7x5...m8ikcirxua.jpg

Rear hub closeup showing how the pins are captured with a small screw, as you can see all plastics on the car have a very high carbon content and are very stiff

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-mpswa...id8c9ppj24.jpg

Almost completed car, minus shocks which I'll do tomorrow

http://img.skitch.com/20100805-qqkh5...5qew5ghw7k.jpg

The only optional part I have on it apart from using up my left over grade 12.9 hex head screws where possible, this rear sway bar (because I saw woody uses one)

The cars complete, I forgot to take pictures building the shocks but you all know how they go and that they are the most awesome part of the Team C cars so that's ok.

http://img.skitch.com/20100809-cbimd...4qa6hrisum.jpg

http://img.skitch.com/20100809-caywh...wgn25hifu8.jpg

http://img.skitch.com/20100809-p7fpx...1qj7bcfisq.jpg

http://img.skitch.com/20100809-c4yi3...cb1ke9y9y8.jpg

http://img.skitch.com/20100809-jx3ib...9p4w44e3s4.jpg

http://img.skitch.com/20100809-k4677...mfbtxe3g55.jpg

I'm going to get the 5.5Turn speed passion motor and a 120amp XErun ESC, wont be finished for a while but it should be pretty good :). I would just make a suggestion to tcmodels that if the stickers had 2 of each so you have the same for the other side of the car, that would be better :). The car's really good, I'm 100% sure it's going to be the fastest rc I've ever had

Aha, my kit was short a shim or 2 for the diffs as well. Did the slipper go together easy, did you have to flip the spur over?
Also were you able to tighten the 2 screws on the upper plate without binding the steering?
Very nice pics!

Thanks for the build thread, looks good and interesting !

The slipper was much more complex than the 2wd buggies I'm use to for sure but it all went together fine once I figured out how all the millions of pins held it together :) and nope I didn't have to flip the spur around as far as I know, it seems to only go on one way? because there's a pin slot on one side. The steering screws aren't done up tight yet because all that section isn't quite complete yet so everything there is half a turn away from being seated, so I'll have to let you know tomorrow about that

I would be careful with the front diff according to your set up. We found in testing if you followed the directions and put a shim on each side of the diff, there was a much better chance of no issues. Yes you can put two on one side and one on the other for a tighter mesh, but the kits only come with 4 shims. Our part number is TR4057 for additional shims (not sure if everyone is using the same part numbers). The drive train is so free out of the box. I would recommend the extra shims, especially if you are going to run a hotter motor.

Hi Nikos It's sitting on my table so I went and double checked the instructions, part TR4039 is the diff rings. Nicefrog was referring to part 86000 to take play out of the rear gear mesh.

http://img.skitch.com/20100804-t5t85...tda7pb9rdi.jpg

Thanks positronic- never try and read spreadsheets on your iPhone in a car!!

The shims I was describing go on the diffs themselves and place the gear mesh tight by moving the diff gear (39T) closer to the ring diff gear (16T). I can see were adding shims behind the ring gear will move it, I have never tried that. I know adding shims on diff to adjust mesh has been done ever since the original Predator shaft drives.

We didn't even think of doing that way, same end result I guess (hope) :thumbsup:

I also added the 3 shims like you did for the rear. Not just to adjust the gear mesh but there was too much play. I'll be trying the car on the track tonight. will see how it goes.

The cars finished now apart from the shocks, I have pictures of everything but no time to update the thread until tomorrow night. I checked the mesh of the crown and pinions in the diffs and they look fine to me, I setup the mesh in the diff in my actual full size car so I think these will be ok :0. The front one could have used 2 shims to be snug, but it's going to be fine for now with one. I can see where nikos is comming from with moving the crown gear across but I think with this car it's not the right way to go about it (or at least defiantly not needed)

I'm not able to do up those screws all the way without it binding, I'd be happier if I could so I'm going to see if I can fix that. I like the car a lot though, all around it feels to be made stronger than the 2wd, the carbon plastics make a HPI kind of TING :0 very hard

When I get a chance I will look for a fix for that (binding). Im sure theres a way to shim it or whatever it needs. Also my rear rims rubbed on the hub carrier, I used a washer between the hex and the rim. Ive not tried dish rims yet, it may not rub.

I was going to mention I had a problem with one of the rear rims rubbing on the hub!. I thought it was a much more sinister problem in the first moment :D. Actually one of my rims cleared ok, so I swapped them around and now its OK, *just*. I actually didn't glue the tyres on because I'm never happy with the Team C wheels, they are a bit soft and I hardly ever get a straight one. If tcmodels reads this I think we would all like to see the wheels made a bit stiffer and rounder, bent rims anoy me more than anything else. So if they could be made a bit better if that's possible it would be great (and fluro yellow/green :thumbsup:). Or better yet made from un-dyed nylon and let us go at all the colours of the rainbow ourselves :D.

Anyway I didn't glue them on yet because I will probably get some other wheels before I run it. But other that the couple of issues I've mentioned in the thread now, I'm more than happy with everything else on the car. I'll show more more pictures tomorrow about all the cool little bits on the car. The hex's with the roll pins and he little screws that capture the pins on the arms, all that stuff I liked. I also have a sway bar on the rear of the car. (I think I'll order another sway bar kit for the front just in case). It takes quite a bit of time to build, muuuuuch longer than the 2wd's did but I think that adds to the value of it :)

Threads updated, one more update tomorrow and it will be complete :thumbsup:

so your painting it tomorrow :p

Who knows what can happen tomorrow, I just hope this thread gets to the second page soon because it's a bit long to load the first page each time :)

looks like nothing happened :p

I put the DF03 next to it today, they are the same wheelbase

It seems the rear hexes should go on the other way around (with the pin facing inwards) then there's more clearance for the rims to hubs, the manual says to put them pin outwards though, I think it must be an error

edit: notme has suggested this isn't a good idea for a few reasons and better to change the rims. Seems the manual is ok, just that the rims sometimes don't have enough clearance

The car is complete, pictures are back in the first page of this thread

I can't speak for the TC version, but on the TQ version our cars are shipped with the option AE style rear axles. So if you are using regular 12mm hex wheels, you will need to drill out the center hole for a better fit. The spoke rims that came with my SX10 4w had no fit issues with the rims.

So you get the Associated axels thrown in the box before they get shipped out but the hex's and standard wheels stay in the kit also?. The wheels went on without rubbing the other way around in the end (just swaped sides of the car and I had enough) , got lucky since it was only *just* rubbing. We run hex's on all the cars so I can't go back to Associated now, I even converted my rc10's to hex :!). I'm going to find some more solid hex based wheels for this though, maybe Kyosho, maybe something else, I have plenty of time to decide on some good ones

My rims also just rubbed a little, nothing a shim wouldnt fix. I'll stick with dish rims.
I heard the hpi rims are a nice rim and inexpensive.

Yep HPI do some nice stuff, I also got some 2.2 inch deep dish Traxxas (an option for the mini revo) rims to convert my original RC10s to 12mm hex (on HPI adapters) and the Traxxas rims were really nice too so I'll look to see if they make anything in the right offset for a 4wd while I'm looking

Have you driven it yet? Are you happy with it? Any bad sides of the car? I´m still looking for the optimal budget racer and the X4-pro/TC04 seems to be good value for the money.

Regards Thomas

Not yet Thomas, I need to pay some bills etc and buy a saddle pack and a fast motor :). But other people that have them are happy, the rear gear in the diff seems to be an issue once in a while but I believe the HPI gear fits?. I'm sure the factory will bring out some stronger gears at some stage once there's more of the cars around anyway if it still proves an issue. One thing is for sure it's a fast buggy. Just picking it up and throwing it around you can tell it's good :0, really solid.

It's definitely a good car, you would cry if you know how little money it cost me :0

I only know of one video that shows one running and this is it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM3TPQhcWs8

Thank you!

Have you had any problems with stripping the rear pinion gear(the gear that meshes with the differential)? Because, I've stripped one.

What should I do? Add some shims?