201 Idler Gear....
 

It's the same problem of Cougar SV....? Just after 10 runs and i use the ceramic grease...:(
http://nsa15.casimages.com/img/2010/...8141170603.png

did the pin come out of the top shaft?or did the gear just wear out?

No way is that wear, 2 teeth gone, rest look fine, I reckon the pin must have come out!?

would really like to no the reasoning behind a two piece topshaft.is it worth the problems people are having with pins coming out(refering to the couger sv aswell):confused:

No no the pin is ok! It's a real problem if it's the same of SV :cry:

that is an escaping pin from the top shaft, to of caused that problem.....

If someone is building a kit as a shelfer, could i borrow the layshaft and top gear to have a one-piece one?

Surely if it was the pin falling out it would affect more than two teeth?

depends on how it fell, it it bounces and then lodged, no... but without seeing the rest of the gears, it is impossible to tell fully, but would find it hard to believe out of all the teeth, two would shear off from a faulty mould...

See what happens.

Thats a sad sight to see.

I am the one behind the Dyna Storm evo/lighting project on tamiyaclub. When the prototype company was redesigning the slipper shaft on that they wanted to do the same as the 201 and, as I am reading above, the SV - use pin(s) to locate the gear. This was because it was too expensive to machine the shaft like the dyna storm orginal - with the little ribs all around, locating the metal gear insert.

Could be Tamiya has done the same thing here (ie. cost reasons). Pity. :thumbdown:

Hi mate, are you the same guy mentioned on RCtech as having the idler go? If not then your not alone, one went on there too. From that breakage though I'd still say it's something hitting it, not "wear" or a mould failure, either the pin or something getting into the box somehow?

If it is the pin then it can be sorted, some jb weld or even a bit of heatshrink may do it!?

Isn't me on RCtech and it's the first one when i break a gear on RC car. I think it's a failure and i hope it's a last one for everybody.

This car is fabulous on french astro and grass track :thumbsup:

Next week i testing on clay (chalk) with no traction track on a race :woot:

ps: sorry for my english....

was there any other damage in the gearbox?

Nothing...

very odd then, have to keep an eye on that!!

AE Black Grease should be used or a grease that is highly resistant to wear. AE black grease should prevent that from happening...
I think the grease got hot too fast and the gear melted...
It's also aparent we need to know what motor he ran to get it to
do that.:bored:

If it's not the pin coming out of the counter gear then it's that cheap grease...
I have some automotive gear grease that never wears out...that would also work. Get it at an autoparts store.

Its not wear its mechanical damage :confused:

Only two teeth are affected, the other are fine. If it was wear then all the teeth would show damage too.

Black grease ( Molybdenum diasulphide i think is what it is ) - i only use it on thrust race assemblies. Never heard of it being used for gears. :confused:

One of the guys killed an idler gear after one nite. He said it was from driving ruff and doing donuts.. I think its either a defect in the material or this though of the pin dropping out and doing damage...

I wonder if under no load full throttle(aka doing donuts or WOT in the air) if this could cause the pin to move? Ill take a look at mine as i have to rebuild my diff after 3 races now(relube mainly)

I see :confused:

just building my 201 at the moment.have examined the idler gear and noticed at various different points the material looks weakend(its whiter than the rest of the gear material).have examined the spare idlers i have aswell and they are the same.it is mostly along the base of the tooth or at the outer edge.could this be a sign of a problem with the material(it seems alot harder than the material used by ae) thats causing the problems:confused:

anybody have any further problems with the idler gears?

Right, just so you guys know, I have sent an idler gear away, to be copied by RW Racing, so you can have a machined idler gear. Tamiya only sell the gear in a pack with the diff gear.

The same car that ate an idler dnf'd last week with a gear box failure(i have not been able to confirm if it was an idler or a spur gear,once i find out for sure ill post back)

So far of the 5 cars at our track only one car has had any type of issue.. we are going into our 4 week now of racin them

Well the same car lost its 3rd ilder gear last nite, and a second care lost its first..... My self and one other driver have logged the most laps with our cars and have not seen this failure...yet.

we are at a loss as to why this is happening. i beleive a gear box case is going to be ordered to try out.

Below is a quote from Randy Caster (TRF driver from the USA) found in RCTech's forum:

"Tamiya has recognized an issue with the idler gear material, and are already working on a more durable material. Some people are having issues, some aren't, I think it has a lot to do with how much motor you are using, and making sure your diff/slipper are set correctly.

For anyone building, or rebuilding their 201 transmission, before installing the idler gear, boil it in water a couple times. This will help to soften the material and make it less brittle, and should hopefully solve the issue altogether until the new parts are available from Tamiya.

If you do happen to strip an idler gear, I would recommend replacing the diff gear and idler gear. This is basically just to be sure that none of the teeth on the diff gear are chipped or cracked and would cause another failure."

.

boiling! Wow have not hear of that since the old AE pan car days! LOL Oh and HPI with there PRO3 :) Oh well :) At least they are on top of it. Wont hold my breath about Tamiya handing out next gen gear sets to early owners though :)


FYI: At my club we run 13.5 motors. most have turbo/supercharged software in effect and the track is a hard packed small indoor track.... Everyone running the new car has years and years of race experience so slipper settings should not be the issue, but worth looking at.

It might sound like blasphemy but the gears from kyosho rb5 (um509) fits in the 201.
The diff gear is identical but the idler is 26t instead of 27t.
There is an optional 26t idler in delerin (umw513)

my idler let go at the weekend:thumbdown: this was after 9 5min runs spread over 2 race days:mad:(let go during the 10th)hope tamiya sort this quickly

I shall call RW tomorrow, see how well my idler gears are coming on

I thought the same thing but didn't know anything about the pitch/diameter/module ect of the Kyosho gear.
Also there's aftermarket metal Idlers for the RB5 on ebay.

WEll of the regular Tamiya racers at my local track, i'm the last man standing... My friends who's car has the most laps on it, let go tonight, on single tooth on the idler snapped off. My car knock on wood is second in total laps and im still on the original gear..

like a ticking time bomb.... My B4 sits in the padock nightly.. i have a feeling she will be rolled out soon. :)

Any update Steve ? I emailed them last night but no reply as yet. Im holding off my build until these gears are ready :thumbsup:

One of our racers ran the Kysosho 26T idler last night. Said it meshed nicely and possibly the tranny rotates a bit more free.

I tried a couple of times, but with RW he is always busy, try again in the morning

Ok cool - keep me posted please mate :)

Ticking time bomb is a good way of saying it!! Has anyone tried boiling them and done decent mileage after? Also, how much grease are you all using on the gears when you build?

There's no doubt this is an issue, just wondering what can help mitigate it!?

looking at it and after chatting with Dyna, if it is going to go, it will go early, otherwise it will run and run, to do with fibre alignment in the mouldning

mine went straight in no boiling and used plenty of grease.have boiled the replacement gears so will see what happens

Right, have spoke to RW Racing, idler gears should be released middle to end of next week, you can buy them from

www.fusionhobbies.com

or

http://www.m-k-racing.com/

They are machined out of solid material, and the usual very high quality RW standard.

Thankyou Steve ! :thumbsup:

no worries, should be miles better than the kit one (which is unusual for Tamiya), plus you wont have to buy it in a pack with the diff gear.