saddle lipo chassis
 

hey lads just wondering if this chassis is available to get and wha advantages and disadvantages it has thanks:thumbsup:

you can only fit saddles in the same orientation as the stick packs

Take a look at the National photos Mark, Ellis appears to have them side by side.

Guess it brings the weight in closer to the center, cut down on roll.

Looks to me like a modified standard chassis.... Ooh where's the dremel?

Our Team drivers have complete freedom to try anything they like, and they all own Dremels. You U.K. guys are generally not familiar with Brian Kinwald, King Of The Dremel.

All sorts of modifications have been tried on most Team cars, and you never can tell which ones will show up at a National, much less will find its way into production; that is how we stay ahead of the others.

The saddle LiPos side-by-side only works with certain electronics (to keep the speedo in the center) and on certain tracks. For example, the stick actually helps on many loose dirt tracks.

Ellis has long been known as the most innovative of drivers --Dirt and Big E have the utmost respect for each other -- so Ellis is always trying something new. Sometimes you must look closely at his car, other times, as now, it's obvious; but, trust me, the Staffordmobile will be still different at the next round.

It all makes you, the X Factory Family, faster.

Not incidentally, Congratulations Ellis! I did not see the video of the last two mains, but winning the last one by 6 seconds (!) sure put the Stafford stamp on things.

Where's the video??? :drool:

And just to confirm what Chazz has already said, the chassis on Ellis car today at EPR was a standad plastic chassis that he had "modified" to accept the saddle LIPO's side by side.

We are "very likely" to be offering the chassis, already machined (so you can run saddles in this format OR continue to run stick across the width) as a tuning part very soon (for those who wish to purchase one already modified) as well as the possability of putting up a detailed guide of how to mod your own chassis on our website (for those who fancy doing it themsleves or not spending any money ..... LOL)

Incidently, Ellis was also using today a new prototype heatsink/fan mount for the motor which worked a treat too, expected to be available very soon also......

Indeed, final C.A.D. on the heatsink/fan mount, ES008, is being sent to the supplier this coming week. Elllis has personally designed this part -- at last we'll use those two holes!

might be in here
http://www.livestream.com/ttrclive

Part # 1009, Chassis, X - 6 Squared, Saddle LiPo, Plastic, shipping to D.M.S. June 12 to arrive (depending on U.K. customs) around June 23. Retail price on our website $49.99. Shipping June 14 to fine hobby stores all over the world.

These are standard #1006 plastic chassies that have been CNC milled to match Ellis' EPR spec. There are two advantages to this set-up. First, the weight is brought a bit inboard reducing chassis roll in corners. Second, weight is brought a touch forward. I believe Ellis is ballasting this car slightly differently because of that.

Our standard LiPo battery strap, # 1223 which comes with your Kit, will fit and work just fine. If you've got tall packs, the stand=-offs described in our web site tech section will work the same as with a stick.

I assume Ellis and the Boyz will come on here and talk more about and weight or set-up changes as well as advantages and disadvantages. We have not yet tried one on a U.S. dirt ttrack.

Some may say, "It's another expensive hop-up part you've got to buy to run an X Factory car." We reply, "If you want us to stay stagnant and lose, nope, not doing it. And if you want us to develop new stuff and keep it to ourselves so you can't have it..."

No one is forcing anyone to buy anything. We give you the very latest and very fastest stuff as quickly as possible. What other company would put a stock of already molded parts into the mill and bring them to you just a week after the race debut?

Last year Alberto Cano (Team XFactory Spain) use a similar chassis ... winning the Spanish National

Regards

Gabriel Lopez

http://www.imagefacile.com/img/1tgdj_x61.jpghttp://www.imagefacile.com/img/mktmt_x62.jpghttp://www.imagefacile.com/img/lbuls...podium_2wd.jpghttp://www.imagefacile.com/img/d3nzv...podium_2wd.jpg

Anyone know what weight and where was being used

i ran the saddle chassis last weekend on a dirt track in holland.
found out that it has les weight on the rear, put about 30 grams onder the lipe wil work, and the balance of the car is way better
won the club race with a ace pace, very slippery track

New Saddle LiPo Chassis
 

I just posted this on another forum:

We are releasing the new #1009 buggy chassis. Ellis Stafford designed it and used the original one to win the recent National at E.P.R. with what was clearly the fastest car on the track.

As LiPos have become bigger they of course have become heavier, and a stick LiPo 6000 pack across the back is beginning to put too much weight to the outside of the car. Remember the original X - 6 with its 4 + 2 cell configuration. That + the motor kept the weight centered just in front of the rear wheels.

Ellis wanted to try saddles -- Brian has tried them too -- so Big E did some work with a Dremel to make them fit securely with the standard battery strap. Ellis uses one of the new smaller E.S.C.s, and he got that to fit in front of the pack.

#1009 exactly duplicates Ellis' work -- your chassis will be just like his. We start with a #1006 plastic X - 6 Squared chassis, C.N.C. machine it according to Ellis' C.A.D. and, presto!, a #1009. If you have a larger E.S.C. you can do about 60 seconds of Dremel work and still fit your speedo between the servo and battery.

Retail price $49.99 is still less than a standard graphite chassis. Shipped to fine hobby stores all over the world today, the fastest way to get one is through your LHS. On our web store now. D.M.S.' shipment went out last Friday, and should be in U.K. stores early next week.

Check out the story and pix on RedRC: http://www.redrc.net/2010/06/x-facto...is/#more-32744

Is that why there was a Scumacher Cougar SV on pole then?;)

I think you will find Chazz is referring to the lap times in the finals when the guys finally got to race each other rather than the clock......

That was on purpose as I don't seem to be able to win from pole any more :woot:

Watching Big E push first Grant then Tom around the track until he finally got clear in A - 1 was a treat. In A-3 Ellis got clear on lap 2 and motored serenely off into the sunset. A 6-sec win in a National A final is clearly faster.

Will we see a stick pack x-6 down the centerline like the Cougar Sv has in the near future? At least on paper the cougar sv's layout looks like it would result in the fastest lap times over any other manufactures chassis layouts.

Ttboyy, we tried it and it moves weight too far forward. We built a stick pack chassis and it was slower, pure and simple.

Also, if you are going to use a "standard" servo mounting system, the only way to do it is with with a very low profile servo, which would require our customers to buy a very expensive component.

Don't let team shumacher hear that the stick pack setup is slower Chazz, they will change their setups to saddle pack too and then x-factory will lose their edge.

Cougar SV can run saddle packs side by side as well as stick pack.

I ran my Saddle pack chassis today at Bury regional and it was ACE. I tried it back to back at the start of the day and was quicker and generally better settled on the high grip sections.

I was able to remove the anti roll bar and the balance was similair over all but felt safer on the high grip sections especially where they were a little bumpy.

I'm quite interested to try this chassis on my 4 gear non sq X6

It has the DMS carbon X6 batt brace fitted btw.

Will I just need the chassis and those brass inserts for the rear hinge pins?

Will my batt strap work with sq chassis?

Mark, you will need the Sq battery strap too, there are some specialist saddle ones coming out too soon I believe from a couple of suppliers....

How did you weight the car Dan? Did you still try and balance it out 65 - 35 or did you just run new chassis with no weights???

I ran it with exactly the same weight I normally run on any kind of medium/high grip dry track (40g under the speedo and 60g under ther servo) except I added two peices of lead on the centre 2 cells slots under where the stick would go. This is because my saddles are about 40g lighter than my stick pack so it balances it out for direct comparisons.

At Oswestry national I ran the saddle packs in rounds 1 and 2 when grip was high, then becasue I like safety over an 'entertaining' drive I went back to stick (with no other changes) for 3, 4 and the final becasue the traction zones coming out of corners had started to break up. On reflection I wish I'd left it until after round 3 as there was enough grip still in that round but cest la vie. I made no changes setup wise when changing cells including still leaving off the anti roll bar.

The saddles are not a MASSIVE difference in some respects it's not like driving a totally different car. But when the grip is high it just feels better I think.

Ellis ran saddles all day though, he might see this and comment.

Oh just to add, the usefullness of 'having' to add lead is how you can adapt it to the conditions. At the oOple race it rained for leg 3, I took out the lead from under the servo and added the saddles 2*18g worth of weight at the back, to shift the balance backwards. This gave me a lot more drive in the wet and the car was really good (3rd in last leg of the A). Takes about 2 minutes to change this weight balance so can be done right before a run if it starts raining :)

TFB 4ever! :thumbsup:

I heard of some issues with chassis breaking, so I made some bracing. If you want to keep some extra flex you still can mount them with o-rings mounted between the brace and the chassis.

Not hard to make, and there removable if you want to switch to stickpacks.

way to go arjan

i mainly run at worksop indoors or indorr regionals, so would you say this chassis is needed?

You have the word "Dremel" in your signature, so you NEED to cut up a chassis... whether it works or not ;)

weight distribution
 

Hi, I understand that the saddle pack puts more weight over the front. The question is, exactly what percentage are we talking about? 0.3-0.5% towards the front?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastinfastout (Post 393846) Hi, I understand that the saddle pack puts more weight over the front. The question is, exactly what percentage are we talking about? 0.3-0.5% towards the front?

That really isn't why its done. Some saddle packs are a bit heavier, some a bit lighter than the normal ones. And we've always been able to balance the car with some added weight.

The thing that makes this better to drive is the fact that there is less weight close to the outer edge of the chassis. So now the mass is more central, and therefore the car is more predicable.

Until now I’ve been using budget 25c - 4000mAh packs just because they were light and it really didn't affect handling of the car much even when using sticks. But if I changed to a heavier 5300 LRP battery the car was a lot harder to drive.

The weight bias was 32/68 with no added weights. I placed 30 grams under the esc and 20 behind the servo. Now its back to 35/65 as it should be.

i also have asscess to a milling machine :thumbsup:
not if it makes it weaker and not required for low traction surfaces

any one able to answer my question?

You don't absolutely need it. On low grip tracks, the differences in lap times are small, and it's more of a touchy-feely thing.

The saddle pack chassis is an advantage if one runs heavy lipos( think LRP and the like) on high grip tracks.

Don't know for sure but I don't know why not, usually I get on power understeer at Worksop and I can only think the saddle chassis will improve this.

We'll find out in a few months.

I'll try to put Elvo's and Dan's posts in different words. The # 1009 saddle pack chassis is a tuning option, much like the # 1005 graphite and # 1006 plastic.

Depends entirely on your track and the batteries you have.

A good 3800 or 4000 40C or more stick pack will fit well in the car (height) and have all the run time and punch anybody needs in buggy. Once you get over 4000 the pack is heavier so weight to the outside can become an issue. Sometimes a bit more chassis lean is actually good, and often a sway bar is the answer.

X Factory is purely a racing company. We assume nobody has ever run one of our cars in his back yard. We know the Family is a group of guys who love their cars, that building them is half the fun, and so far it's been easy for us to resist China and the RTR thing. Because we are a racing company we want you to have every option to go as fast as humanly possible, so we give you as many options as possible.

Saddle chassis is another option. For some drivers on some tracks, saddle is the way to fly. For others it's stick graphite, and for still others it's stick plastic. You get choice, not chance, with X Factory.

B.T.W. the # 1009 saddle chassis will still accept stick. Same CF hold-down with same chassis posts for both.