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burgie 09-05-2010 04:52 PM

Cougar Quality Problems...
 
I am experiencing a couple of problems with my Cougar, and it's really not impressing me.

I have (so far) had two drive shafts (both on the left side coincidentally) fall completely apart. neither of them have lasted more than five laps. I have checked the diff for binding, and it's free as could be. i have also checked the droop on the back to make sure it's not excessive and that's fine too.

What else should I be looking for to try and stop this happening?

Also, I have noticed that the anodizing inside the shocks is coming off, making the shocks a tiny bit "notchy" where the anodizing has got between the piston and the shock body (i presume) scratching the inside of the shock body. Is there anything I can do to stop the anodizing from coming off?

Finally, the gearbox moulding doesn't seal properly on my car, nor on the other cars I have seen at the club - so grit and dust (and moisture no doubt) can find it's way in - I can actually see the gears in the 'box from the outside!

I am a little disappointed thus far with the car - I haven't even managed to race it yet, as both drive shafts have failed during practice, well if you can call under 10 laps in two weeks practice. :thumbdown:

moth898 09-05-2010 04:57 PM

what do you mean when you say the driveshafts fall apart? does the universal joint come apart or does the dogbone side come out of the drive yokes? I'm a little confused about the anodizing because it's not thick enough to peel off, its more likely to wear off.

mikeyscott 09-05-2010 04:59 PM

Have you spoken to Schumacher themselves?

janus_77 09-05-2010 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moth898 (Post 375222)
what do you mean when you say the driveshafts fall apart?

The universal joint comes apart, the pin just comes loose in a couple of shafts.

Seems to be "hit and mis", some cars dont have this issue at all. But some.....

burgie 09-05-2010 05:07 PM

when the drive shafts fall apart, the gold bit in the middle and the pins fall completely out, the out drive has been slightly damaged as well, as the drive shafts exits the car.

I have spoken to Schumacher and the response was "yes that's happened to some during testing". They did replace the first driveshaft FOC without any quibble though, I should say.

Alfonzo 09-05-2010 05:10 PM

Well that's a contrast to my post regarding the quality of the kit! :D

Looking at mine, there's no way I can see into the gear box through the join line, bit odd?

Hopefully just a degree of bad luck and teething problems Chris?:confused:

spud31 09-05-2010 05:16 PM

Chris i can sympthise my cougar cant be run due to a mismoulded pair of gearbox housings the layshaft is reallt stiff when turned.

I phoned schuy an spoke to chris on friday an a new pair are on there way :thumbsup:

ian h 09-05-2010 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spud31 (Post 375232)
Chris i can sympthise my cougar cant be run due to a mismoulded pair of gearbox housings the layshaft is reallt stiff when turned.

I phoned schuy an spoke to chris on friday an a new pair are on there way :thumbsup:

My moulded gear box halves are not the best either, had to do a bit of work to get them to marry up and also had to run in the layshaft and idler gears using a dremel connected to the layshaft until it eventually bedded in and ran smooth. On a positive note the rest of the kit is fine and I got a third place finish today in my first outing with the cougar. The handling is super!

Tom3012 09-05-2010 06:29 PM

Could be because they're the first batch? My gearboz housing is the same, i can see the gears, also i had odd length rear turnbuckles, schumacher are sending out a replacement though... I also found out today my kit didnt come with the 4 purple washers that can be used to screw the top plate down to make it stiffer, need to email them again and see what they say

Albertini 09-05-2010 06:34 PM

The tranny housings on mine leave a small gap at the back aswell, thought I'd misassembled at one stage as its got a tight spot(think its gone now after running it for 2 mins up the drive).

You can see the gap in this picture.
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/2010n.../DSC_1910.html

If you look at the pictures on the schumacher site of the gearbox, above the motor is a small purple washer spacing the front of the 2 halfs apart. This washer is not shown in the instructions and funnily enough I had two left over but didn't know what they were for. I haven't taken it all apart to put these in but could it make a difference??

Having said all of this, I love this car, it has real character, which is why I bought it. Wish I could afford another and have one as a shelf queen, its just beautiful.:thumbsup:

purplenut 09-05-2010 07:35 PM

sv
 
Question,what shocks are you running on this?
Cheers

P_B 09-05-2010 07:41 PM

Similar gearbox issues here, mismatched case halves and a noticable tight spot. One seems to have gone after running a pack through the car and a bit of electrical tape sorted the other.

Along with the cheese turnbuckles, slightly disappointing for an otherwise excellent build of a premium car.

JustARcFan 09-05-2010 07:43 PM

My build was perfect, no gaps at all and the smoothiest transmission.

Just waiting for the missing pieces to arrive. :woot:

wouter.z 09-05-2010 07:59 PM

I had simular problems with mine. I had to dremmel a bit out of the transmission housing (around the idler) to get the transmission smooth. And i must admit it still isn't perfect.

Albertini 09-05-2010 07:59 PM

Purplenut, thats not a picture of my SV, thats Jimmys photo of the other version thats not out yet. Sorry I made it sound like the photo was of mine, its not, it just has the same gap as this one.:)

Was thinking the same as you P.B. and will just put a small bit of tape over it.:)

jeffrey 09-05-2010 08:13 PM

i also have a small gap, but my transmission turn not so good.
if i turn the spur gear, there is one place it turns a little bit stiff.
now i'm a bit worried to drive with it.
i have heard that dremel it a bit would help, but what must i dremel away?

thanx
grtz jeffrey

Jonathan 09-05-2010 09:27 PM

Build not finished, but gap in gearbox housing and stiff points on idler here too.

moth898 10-05-2010 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgie (Post 375227)
when the drive shafts fall apart, the gold bit in the middle and the pins fall completely out, the out drive has been slightly damaged as well, as the drive shafts exits the car.

I have spoken to Schumacher and the response was "yes that's happened to some during testing". They did replace the first driveshaft FOC without any quibble though, I should say.

I can't say anything about the universals coming apart...I've never seen that. There is a glue thats called cold weld that supposedly is as strong as welding, maybe a touch of this on the pin will help keep it in place.

If the universals are falling out of your drive yokes its usually due to the setup. If your running the rear shock setup check the suspension geometry... the same thing happend to my Cat until I lower the rear arm toe in by one degree and added the aluminium rear hubs with the 1 degree built in, it hasen't happened since. I like the shaft to be 2 mm into the drive yokes at minimum.

burgie 10-05-2010 08:00 AM

the driveshafts are only falling out of the yokes because the universal joint keep falling apart....:thumbdown:

I am "glad" to see it's not just my Cougar with the gearbox problem I have also mentioned. But it's not what you expect on a near £250 kit.

mikeyscott 10-05-2010 08:02 AM

Give Schumacher a call and I'm sure they'll sort you out.

I have seen a number at our track with no probs at all.

burgie 10-05-2010 08:29 AM

I have just been on to Schumacher.

They are aware that there is an issue with some of the driveshafts falling apart, and are sending me a replacement one out today, so no complaints there.

I am sure once these problems are sorted out with my car it will be all good - I couldn't catch Tom Pattison at Southport yesterday with his, and I was running 4wd! :blush:

mikeyscott 10-05-2010 08:34 AM

Good to hear :)

Yeah our quick guy at our track is getting close to the 4WD track record with his!

Timee80 10-05-2010 05:42 PM

Took the cougar out yesterday for its first run and it drove really well. Performance wise i was really impressed but wasnt too keen on the quality of the turnbuckles. The 2 front camber link turnbuckles both bent at about 45 degrees at the bendy ball cup end, and then a rear bent as well in a seperate heat with no accidents:eh?:
I rang schumacher to see if there was any quality issues with these and they said they know of none, and that their turnbuckles are as hard as any of their competitors.
Anyone experienced turnbuckles made of cheese???

bigred5765 10-05-2010 06:08 PM

no quality issues there made of steel, just replace with purple ti ones :) Yeah 6000 posts

mikeyscott 10-05-2010 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigred5765 (Post 375613)
no quality issues there made of steel, just replace with purple ti ones :) Yeah 6000 posts

I've ordered mine and the kit ones will be spares for me or other SV racers :)

Was going to order an SX2 C/F, but they don't come with titanium turnbuckles :( etc. which bumps the price back up

P_B 10-05-2010 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timee80 (Post 375593)
Anyone experienced turnbuckles made of cheese???

Not 'experienced' them as the team drivers simply told me not to bother. This Cougar lark gets damned expensive after Ti turnbuckles, camber link options etc!

Jamesk 10-05-2010 07:37 PM

Intersting to hear peoples veiws and teething problems, think ill wait for TRF201x and the decide what to buy

sly 10-05-2010 07:56 PM

Gearbox. I have used some wet and dry sand paper on a very flat surface and sanded the high spots of the off the moundings, thus helping the fit and reducing the gap between the two halfs.
Don`t take to much off or you`ll make the layshaft and idle gears bind.

samd 10-05-2010 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timee80 (Post 375593)
Took the cougar out yesterday for its first run and it drove really well. Performance wise i was really impressed but wasnt too keen on the quality of the turnbuckles. The 2 front camber link turnbuckles both bent at about 45 degrees at the bendy ball cup end, and then a rear bent as well in a seperate heat with no accidents:eh?:
I rang schumacher to see if there was any quality issues with these and they said they know of none, and that their turnbuckles are as hard as any of their competitors.
Anyone experienced turnbuckles made of cheese???

:lol::lol::lol:Gafer tape Tim:lol::lol::lol:

eichkay 10-05-2010 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sly (Post 375681)
Gearbox. I have used some wet and dry sand paper on a very flat surface and sanded the high spots of the off the moundings, thus helping the fit and reducing the gap between the two halfs.
Don`t take to much off or you`ll make the layshaft and idle gears bind.


I might take mine apart before i get to far into the building just to double check it sits flat... once assembled the gear box shows the gap no matter which order i did the screws up.. but once installed on the car and removing the spru burs off the diff cups housings i cant see a gap at all ..

i thought i did see a gap last night just under the camber link, but after looking again today i cant see a gap at all anywhere.

during assembly ..
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...er/GEARBOX.jpg

I did come across a crushed ball stud in the first packet i opened for the build... had to raid my parts bin.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...y-ballstud.jpg

fastinfastout 11-05-2010 05:00 AM

thats some pretty bad QC at schu.

I have never seen a ball stud like that before, not even in the cheapest kits.

im starting to have 2nd thoughts now, knowing how dodgy this car is/can be.

does the original cat sx have ti turnbuckles? if not, are they the same as the SV's?

DCM 11-05-2010 06:27 AM

It looks like there is some tweaking of the moulding when it is cooling, with the gearbox.

As for the ball stud, I have seen that in other kits too, they can't physically check every metal piece like screws and such.

MattW 11-05-2010 09:08 AM

You want them to check every ballstud thread, seriously?? How much are you prepared to pay for the kit?? Sadly the odd one will always slip through, same for every single kit manufacture.

eichkay 11-05-2010 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastinfastout (Post 375770)
thats some pretty bad QC at schu.

I have never seen a ball stud like that before, not even in the cheapest kits.

im starting to have 2nd thoughts now, knowing how dodgy this car is/can be.

does the original cat sx have ti turnbuckles? if not, are they the same as the SV's?

the ball stud is obvious it must have stuck in the thread machine as its been crushed .. rather impressive IMO.. and a pain in the bum at the same time.

Ive pulled my diff housing down and sanded it back a bit.. taken very little off, using 1200 grade wet and dry.. the 3 screw sections seem to have ever so slight differences and wont allow the other housing bits to sit flush, after a very little skims over some glass with sand paper on it the housing sit nice and flush and went back onto the car perfect. Its a model after all, some fit and finish work on such a new item maybe required.

moth898 11-05-2010 09:50 AM

We all rushed them to give use the car so little problems like this will happen...they'll be corrected in the near future for sure. But if Cockril and Moss can win with it, it can't be that bad:thumbsup:

reelman_fishing 11-05-2010 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgie (Post 375221)
I am experiencing a couple of problems with my Cougar, and it's really not impressing me.

I have (so far) had two drive shafts (both on the left side coincidentally) fall completely apart. neither of them have lasted more than five laps. I have checked the diff for binding, and it's free as could be. i have also checked the droop on the back to make sure it's not excessive and that's fine too.

What else should I be looking for to try and stop this happening?

Also, I have noticed that the anodizing inside the shocks is coming off, making the shocks a tiny bit "notchy" where the anodizing has got between the piston and the shock body (i presume) scratching the inside of the shock body. Is there anything I can do to stop the anodizing from coming off?

Finally, the gearbox moulding doesn't seal properly on my car, nor on the other cars I have seen at the club - so grit and dust (and moisture no doubt) can find it's way in - I can actually see the gears in the 'box from the outside!

I am a little disappointed thus far with the car - I haven't even managed to race it yet, as both drive shafts have failed during practice, well if you can call under 10 laps in two weeks practice. :thumbdown:

I'm also experiencing the same with my sons shocks, after three rounds of racing the front shock started to leak so I took the top of the shock to refill it I noticed allot of metallic bits floating around inside, so I cleaned all the oil out and noticed the inside was marked. So I just filled back up with oil and finished the days racing, phone Schumacher on the Monday and explained what had happened and on the Tuesday a parcel with two brand new shock body’s and a set of seals, NOW THAT IS WHAT I CALL SERVICE. As with all new products there will be teething problems so just be patient. Real car manufacture can’t get it right look at Toyota!!!

Anyway it’s a big thumbs up for shumacher from me:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

PsycoChris 11-05-2010 12:37 PM

Here is another Issue with my steering.

I am using a JR 9100s Servo. With the stock servo horn they supplied. It is hitting the Inside of the Nose and Binds for a split second. Anyone else having this Issue.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...569/013-27.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...569/014-22.jpg

bigred5765 11-05-2010 12:40 PM

Chris the problem with your steering is pretty a easy one remove the purple washers there not supposed to be there,

bigred5765 11-05-2010 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eichkay (Post 375747)
I might take mine apart before i get to far into the building just to double check it sits flat... once assembled the gear box shows the gap no matter which order i did the screws up.. but once installed on the car and removing the spru burs off the diff cups housings i cant see a gap at all ..

i thought i did see a gap last night just under the camber link, but after looking again today i cant see a gap at all anywhere.

during assembly ..
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...er/GEARBOX.jpg

I did come across a crushed ball stud in the first packet i opened for the build... had to raid my parts bin.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...y-ballstud.jpg

on the gearbox gap issue and tight spot,
remove the slipper assembly and back of the three screws that hold the gearbox half's together, leave them loose and remount the gearbox top on the chassis again tighten it down then re tighten the three screws, taken care not to over tighten them, and re assemble the slipper layshaft assembly and tight spot should be gone and gap also,if theres still a small tight spot run it gently around for 5 10 mins it will go free,:thumbsup:

mikeyscott 11-05-2010 01:00 PM

Indeed I was about to say where in the manual does it say put that washer in.

I've used a Savox and Sanwa with no issues in the car.


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