drive shafts big durango problem!!!
 

I hope Durango will deliver as soon as possible the new 2.0 drive shafts.

Last Week at Austrian regional championships the standard stopped me and so i could not win the amain.

I wrote Durango an email, but they didn`t anser yet - another durango team driver had the same problem and his rar drive shaft pin cutted his accu.:mad:

The cars perfomance is amazing but the durability is not good.:thumbdown:

I think they have to offer every durango owner one 2.0 drive shaft system for special price.:thumbsup:

brgds

Andi

Hi Andi,
The reason no one hasd replied to your e-mail, is that the e-mail was sent to the Team Durango set-ups account not the support e-mail address. The e-mail was addressed to Gerd in person and has therefore been forwarded on to Gerd as we were unsure of it's intention.

Regarding the d/s have you built them as per the tips and tricks section of the TD blog? This is the best way to 'bulletproof' your driveshafts as tested by the Team.

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=44

Regards

ok i ll try it,

hpoe it will work so

thx

andi

I dammage 2 Lrp batteries too.

I cut part 310039(plastic cover from diff) direct fit over all the drive shafts to prevent the pin from falling off.

I never have any problems and i drive the car very hard and a lot of jumps at my track!!!!!!

not the jumps are the problem!

if the track is very bumpy, the car has to absorbe vibrations, and only there is the problem!

I have the same problems and read your "tips and tricks" - last time I did not lose the pin - but it broke in two parts ;) (Both set screws were ok !) The result was the same : I had to stop the car. Please make me a good offer for the 2.0 parts ;) (by PN)

I hear ya mate.... We've had a few guys with the same problem, myself included. And that's even after using 2x set screws, threadlock and 2 layers of heatshrink.
If the the pins don't come out, they just snap.

I'm not whinging here.. just saying it's a problem that has happened to more than one person. ;-)

i seen the same thing happen on a mates car.
the pin went straight through the lipo.
and as you keep saying adam they were bulletproofed, but the pin snapped.

the pins are just to thin, and were the flat has been cut makes the pin to weak.
it's a poor design fault which should be sorted, and not just in future kits, but in kits that are out there now.

durango are getting a lot of bad press over this may'be if they sort out exsisting owners problems then this might just convince people to invest in a durango.

I made mine according to the manual of a later kit no.770 (I didn't know about the bulletproofing on the website). I took a bit of time over it as I do if it seems a bit tricky, during my 3rd qualifying the pin snapped at the end of the straight and dug in to my 109 euro lipo. I had bought all kinds of spares but of course not the lipo. No one else at the club uses saddle packs so I was out. The car itself is fantastic and I have no problems recommending it.

I would like to resolve any future issues by getting the 2mm shafts, is there any news when these will be available as spares from the R? It would not be the end of the world if Team Durango did not make some gesture for existing owners but I'm sure we would all feel vindicated in buying such a high end car if they did .

My main information I need is when they 2mm shafts will be released and if I have time to buy them or should I go the Tresey route as they're already available?

One tip all you guys could try is putting the casing from an 11mm bearing over all your CVD's. This way you don't have to use any grub screws so there is no pressure on the middle of the pin.

I did this and ran the car for months, racing every week and never had any problems. To check the wear on your pins you simply remove the bearing casing and push the pin out, takes seconds. By using the bearing casing i only had to replace the pins after over 4 months of continuous use. They never actaully snapped though, i only replaced them as they were slightly worn.

Hope this helps :thumbsup:

Thanks for that, what do you use to hold it on? You don't have a photo do you?

No photos im afraid, don't have a camera phone.

All you do is get some 11mm bearings, dremel about 1mm off the outside and push the middle of the bearing out. This leaves you with the outer casing of the bearing.

You then simply crimp this over your CVD using some pliers. This creates a solid cover completely preventing the pin coming out. You just use this method instead of using heat shrink. No need to use grub screws either as theres no way the pin will force its way through the outer casing of a bearing!

Hulk

Photos will be up in a few minutes - just uploading em :thumbsup:

People

This is what Hulk is talking about - i did this from day one on my Durango - no problems at all - bearing cases are a very tight fit (in fact do more than you need as a couple shattered whilst trying to "push" them over the joint)


http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1273152189

http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1273152189
http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1273152189

Cheers for that Shanks :thumbsup:

I had a few shatter also but to stop this happening all you have to do is dremel a slightly wider gap in the outer casing. This stops it from been such a tight fit and stops them shattering when crimping them on.

No worries Hulk - can you do me a favour now and tell me how i can get my car round the track as quick as you do ! lol :woot:

I've seen the same here in Norway. Fast & cool cars but most of them end up as DNFs in the finals...

Cant agree sorry

Mine gets some stick - mostly cause my driving is not spot on - so i crash it a bit

Nothing breaks at all

ok i have broke a servo saver twice - but then i did crash head on into concrete !

I saw the guys break servo savers as well. Another part that should be revised.

The drive pins, and ring gears seem to be the weakest parts I've found on my 410.
I stopped using the TD drive pins and use a solid pin with no flat spot, and two set screws for each pin. Shimming the diff so the ring gear fits a bit tighter against the bevel gear has helped prevent the ring gears from breaking teeth. Also, the screw holes in the front and rear bulkheads strip a little too easily, so I coat the stripped holes with epoxy, and cut new threads.
All in all, the 410 is more bulletproof than any other car I've owned for the last 24 years. All the others had many more "tricks" that had to be done, to improve durability and/or performance.

Hy Guys,
okey I will also give the bearing a try to fix my pin problem :) ..
here is another thing happend last race ass my car sounds like makig a Cappuchino on the straight:)

the machined fixed pin moved out in the kardan (photo 1)

and gone trough the plastik housing of the diff and damaged the diffoutdrive :( ...
eieieie think happend sometimes you cannot believe..

regards Tom

One of you guys will get a black flag soon! :lol::lol::lol:

"Look - that car's on fire!"

I think a properly set slipper clutch is your best protection.

is the end of the drive shaft near the pin cracked? if so contact TD and they will assist you

That cut bearing mod looks poor (nicely finished car and some crap old bits of bearing on it)
Do yourselfs a favour and buy another set of the tubes that go on the outdrives (they are only cheap) cut off the flanged end and slide it over the rear prop cvd (it is a perfect tight fit) then secure by using one of the small outer rear cvd gator pushed over it! simple's and when you want to remove the diffs etc , the tubes/gator still fit out of the transmission holders.......do the same for the front prop so they look the same and production....not some old ballbag bearing:thumbdown:
cheers
Scott

Be sure the end of the shaft around the hole is not cracked. If it is, toss it away and get a new shaft.
If the end of the shaft is not cracked, you can "crimp" the center of the pin by hammering it with the tip of a screwdriver. Just a slight crimp will suffice. Then, press the pin back into the shaft. I've never had to do this to the shafts on my 410, but I have done it to a few other cars, and the pins stayed in place.

I have to admit i had some problems early on, even if i built them to the bulletproof your cvd's on the website. I had some small collers made, nothing particularly fancy, i fitted them using a small round file so they simply pushed over the cvd body tightly, iv never had any problems with them since. As for the drivetrain iv never had a problem and would be surprised if you would when the slipper is set up properly. The problem is there is simply nothing to give at all between the motor and the wheel, so its quite critical you pay attention to the slipper.

why do people keep moaning about this car. A good idea would be to stop crashing and learn to drive your cars. i have never had any issues with these so called drive shaft problems. build it right the first time and just get on with it.

Its a forum. People express their opinion. Some of us have had issues. Some not. Doesn't mean that the ones with problems are all idiots? Sometimes we share stuff on here and solutions are found=happy days. Its a great car and I wouldn't swap mine for any other. :D

@ Elvo,
my Slipper was set right cause I spend in the practice at the last race a lot of time for that due to the slippery track.

@rc10fan
for those who knew me they know that I really love that car and I will not change it at all, also I do not want to but it in a negativ light but this is a constructiv forum and I will only share my opinion with the other DEX drivers and so the way is done for solutions and for the Durango team who is reading this Forum all these things are a helpfull feedback to make there car better and better.

But maybe you're right, you're the topdriver and we are all just beginners...

In the near future I'm shure Team Durango will find a nice solution for some issues :)

so far... see you at the track
king regards Tom

this has to be one of the most narrow minded, short sighted post i've seen in a long while.

Without all this feedback from users around the world, Team Durango would have a very difficult time improving an already great car and staying ahead of the field.

Imo, every user should report any issue they have with the DEX410, no matter how small or insignificant it may appear to with. This data will enable Team Durango to more accurately determine what is engineering / mfg oversights vs user error..

FYI... no one here is whinging mate... people are just reporting issues they've experience under their circumstances. Be it driver issues or track design.
If you've had a good run great. perhaps you just sit yours on the shelf, but tracks and drivers around the world are all different. Any mfg should be grateful for such feedback.

Do you hear this Team Durango. If you haven't learnt to drive your car, if you crash, if you are not an ace mechanic... then don't buy a DEX410, you are not worthy or competent enough. :eh?::thumbdown:

I have seen plenty of the worlds best drivers crash in their mains. Just jump on youtube buddy and check out any major race. Tebo, Maifield, Cav, all of them.

I have witnessed top drivers with 25 years of experience wrenching their cars to perfection, have to pull out of their a-main because of a pin break on their DEX410. It's just lame whether it happen to you, or a fellow racer you are nose to tail with.

-----------------------------------

I know that this car is for racers, but it has been released to the general public, not just team drivers. I haven't had one break for a long while now, but the last time one did it chewed my lipo. I'm not sure when it will happen again. Come on TD, sort this little issue out, and look after the guys who are supporting you and for the most part singing your praises.

I have also had problems with the pin in the shaft that breaks very easy.

Servo saver is made of thin and brittle plastic and is impossible to improve it by ourselves, there is no space. I wait for something better there, hopefully soon!
Durango should come with something more solid, I know several racers who have broken the saver and the pins in the axl, inc. myself!

I love the car, but this is def.not good...

Both the servo saver, and the axle drive pins can be saved by properly adjusting the servo saver nut, and the slipper nut. If the slipper is too tight, it will not provide any buffer between the motor and ground. Both can be brutal on the pins. I had trouble with broken drive pins before I learned to adjust the slipper properly. It's very important. The servo saver is indeed very thin in the spot it breaks, but most failures can be prevented by making sure the nut is not too tight. Use the adjustments at hand, before blaming the design. Many of the posts on this Forum about failed parts claim improper user adjustment, or improper user assembly. I, for the most part, agree.

Know what you mean by adjusting properly, but it should withstand more. On all other cars I've had, this has been a lot more solid. I have had many other cars and several top cars like yokomo and TRF501x. It should be said that the other has more and other types of vulnerabilities.
It certainly had been deceived by the Durango and made the parts a little more solid instead of all this negative discussion in several forums.
All these wasted weaknesses in an otherwise amazing car.