501x..... Heck yeah!
 

Finally got to take my 501x to the track tonight after it sitting here looking pretty for months. Never ran it before. Man, what a car!

I would have broke my Terra Scorcher a dozen times tonight if I was running it. The 501x didn't bat an eye to any abuse.

The only issue I had, was that I wiped out the slipper. I had it set per Tamiya's directions (3.5mm showing on the shaft I think it was). Any ideas how to prevent this in the future?

Oh yeah, and this thread would be worthless without a muddy (well, clay) pic!!

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...20Stuff/RC.jpg

And that's a 511 body set. It fit right on the 501. The ONLY deviation from cutting it for a 511, was I had to take a tiny bit more off the very nose where it passes by the blue upper link mount. Other than that, it cut out where it said to cut out for the 511.

Awesome man, Im waiting for mine to come from hong kong lol. I recently bought a worlds edition 501x but for some reason no one is posting jack about this car anymore...too preoccupied with the 511. Im currently running a DB01 Durga. Cant wait to see how the 2 compare on the track. What are you running in it motor wise? Im sure it was a blast to drive that thing holds a line like no other car ive seen...As for the slipper I dunno how you wore it out lol...I always kept my slipper with 3mm showing and never had an issue.

I'm running the EZrun 5.5T 60a setup. I have the power dialed way back since I've never run a setup this fast before, but the car is still way fast!

I was learning how to change the angle of the car in the air pretty good tonight. We have a very aggressive track and some of the jump sections are expert type angles.

On the slipper, I have no idea either. But one guy there said to me "your slipper it too loose, I can hear it in the car". By the time he said that, it was too late. I tried turning the nut all the way in, but the car barely moved anymore.

hell yeah 501x
 

ive been racing mine with a ezrun 5.5 for the last year. s
Sensational car, its the best, and hauls ass over the others in handling, it laughs at big jumps, i havent broken a thing except for one front belt from wear and tear, ill race it till i cant get parts anymore. ENJOY IT I KNOW I HAVE ITS A TANK.

I found the stock tamiya setting to be very very loose the best way I've found to set it is tighten it fully in then back it off a bit so you can hear the slipper slipping for the first few feet of a full throttle take off. You'll notice the sound of the slipper when you start to loosen the nut.

You may want to consider puting the alloy top deck mount onto the rear top deck and not the front one.

Glad your liking the car.

[QUOTE=Power Surge;355120] The only issue I had, was that I wiped out the slipper. I had it set per Tamiya's directions (3.5mm showing on the shaft I think it was). Any ideas how to prevent this in the future?

I have worn out 2, 18t center pulleys on my 501xwe, 3rd time i've tighten the nut much tighter then according to the manual and never had any issues since!

[QUOTE=Mike West;355212]You may want to consider puting the alloy top deck mount onto the rear top deck and not the front one.QUOTE]

Maybe he's drivin' backwards LOL:p

Looks like you had fun:thumbsup: Power Surge.. My 501X is 3 years old and never a problem with the slipper. I set it to factory spec then depending on the traction (clay/dirt) I may adjust it by 0.5 to 1mm. I can hear the slipper work under hard acceleration...

Question, why you run DF03 wheels?? The standard 501X/DB01 wheels setup performs better. The wheels are placed on the axles for optimum performance (industry standard)..

I think it is easier to adjust the slipper using this spring:
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/popup_ima...=14800&image=0

Same slipper spring as the double slipper and the 511.

The standard 501X slipper spring is too soft in my opinion.

There's the brace on the rear too :D

I had a spare parts chassis, so I grabbed the one off it and put it on the front. I was planning to run wires across it.

On the wheels, I know I'll get heat for this, but I think the 501x/DB01 wheel attachment is horrible. The wheels on both my Durga and 501x wobbled as they spun. The shallow 10mm hex on front and pin into plastic on the rear is just a physically poor design. Yes, I know a zillion guys all over the world run that setup, I just don't like it. The 12mm machined hex adapters with DF03 wheels run way truer when spinning. Oh yeah, and the pins don't fall out when you take the wheels off :thumbsup:

I ma have to agree with him on this one...the stock wheel cofig pisses me off too. Lots of woble and if you tighten one more than the other, one spins more than the other so you have to get the tightness of each wheel equal for them to spin evenly when throttle is applied. I may go 12mm hex in the rear too.

What about springs....what are the beast springs for this car? Ive been asking this question for ages and no1 answers....AE springs or the white tamiya springs (red, yellow, blue)

That really needs a paint job :woot:

:woot:My 501x has never been that dirty...lol:woot:

I will say one thing my 501x hauls a$$. And the best thing about it
I can control the power because it;s a tekin R1 pro.;)

I finished 4th in the A-main with mine recently. I couldnt be happier.
After all that was the second big race I put on my car.
Tekin Tamiya's Rock!:thumbsup:

Can some1 please answer me this....AE springs or Tamiya springs?:eh?:

Tony I still run the white ones the kit came with. 35wt AE oil all 4 corners, I tried 30wt ae oil but it was too soft.
I do need to get me some tamiya blue springs and 30wt losi shock oil.
That is what Hupo used on high traction clay.
I plan on copying hupo's setup exactly, then I might be even faster.

If you do use ae springs I highly reccomend the browns on the front, and ae greens on the rear.
That would be your starting point.

I use the kit Tamiya springs with AE Silicone Oil. Depending on track, I use 35wt or 40wt in front and 27.5wt or 30wt in rear. I have used these setups since I bought the buggy 3 years ago.
Buying AE or Tamiya spring kit would be nice, both would work for improved performance for sure.. But my 501X performs good enough with the stock springs. :D

So does mine. Hey at least someone else has tried the stock springs.
I mean they work pretty good to me.

But I'll be trying the AE browns Front/green rear springs since I have some. And I'll still keep 35wt oil all 4 corners.
Then I'll come back on here in a few months and tell you my results.
As it's getting close to outdoor season now and I'll be running my B44.
I usually dont run my 501x til wintertime.

Which pistons do you guys typically use? And what about sway bars?

Thanks for the replies guys...if anyone else has info please feel free to report your findings on the AE. I have the trf spring sets on my DB01 and they work fine, I think Ill stick with them for now.
Anyone have Hupos setup for this car? Ive looked everywhere and some forums have millions of pages and I cant look though them all. If someone has the setup please post the link.

I run 40wt front and 35 rear. medium springs all around and rear medium sway bar on my db01 right now and it serves me very well, she literally flies off the jumps :)
Also running the front wing.

The same pistons in the box are fine. Swaybars, I run front and rear swaybars.
I have not ran the car without them or its more of a preference thing.
The car performs well with the full set in place.;)
I love the trf shocks they practically never leak and if they do you need
new o-rings.

For pistons, I followed the 501X manual. I don't use sway bars personally, my box stock setup works well enough. My damper spring tension is not normal but it works for me on the local hard packed clay surface as it handles the jumps superbly. Currently using 40wt fr and 30wt rear AE silicone oil....
Here is a pic of my damper spring setup:
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/2168/picture007z.jpg

Well I was thinking about ditching the swaybars on my car...
dont really need them do I? Maybe on the rear end and that's it?:confused:
I'll also make note of your damper spring rate. all the way to the top on the rear.
I guess 3mm on the front..?

Just make sure your ride height is at arms level front and rear. Thats where I have it and its perfect there...also I only have the rear sway on to get the rear to slide out a bit more but in the front its not needed as it may take away some grip from the front wheels. Unless the track is ultra smooth with big sweeping turns then you dont need the front...but if its a high speed track then I think the front sway would be needed.

again..The shock body threading adjusts your ride height. Just unscrew till your arms are level with the ground. thats all you really need. Some people go even lower but I find this height is perfect and my buggy jumps like a mofo like this.

Yeah i never run sway bars, it takes away some of the ability of one wheel to deal with a bump independantly, by transfering some of that energy to the other wheel, on the tracks here, where theres usually some bumps, i'd rather have good bump control and have the thing stay on its wheels rather than gain 0.3 of a second around the one flat sweeper

close to 8mm actually in front, and all the way up in the rear. It looks strange but it works for me :)

My ride height is actually set by the CVD level. Both front and rear CVD shafts are parallel with the ground. My front arms sit slightly lower. Funny how we all have different setups, and the 501X/DB01 still performs great :thumbsup:

Using lipos, do I have to add weight to the back of the car and if so how much?

I have not added weight, I slightly adjusted the suspension (rear dampers).

I have around 50g currently, but it all depends on the weight of the lipos too...

Yes an older thread, but wanted to ask the 501X guys.....(I asked similar question about the 511X....so probably the same racers).

If I were starting out with a box stock 501X WCE.....what are the robustness upgrades needed before I build her up?

What problems are signature with the 501X WCE and need to be addressed?

Thanks in advance for any information.

-Kydawg1

Pretty much the same as 511. And a lipo tray (at least Fredrik Emilsson makes them for 501X) Which basically means ball cups and ball studs. And depending on the tracks you drive at, you might wanna consider Fredriks rear diff cover.