Diff Building..
 

Im interested to know how people build there diffs!!

Ive searched on here and there seems to be a few different methods?

I clean thoroughly, use schu silicone diff lube on the balls, then put a thin layer on the plates..(is this too much) for the thrust race i use black teflon grease..

I get my diffs nice and smooth, but not as free as some ive tried..

Ive read on here somewhere you should get as free as a geared diff with no slip..

Also do people "wet&dry" the diff plates?

For setting.. tighten till you cannot physically turn the gear with your fingers?? Then in the car, tighten slipper.. then set so no " bark " both for front and rear..(any suggestions on checking for the front only?) then set slipper with about foot of slip...?? With doing it this way, should i then be able to hold the spur and say one rear wheel, then turn the opposite rear wheel and see the slipper slip?

Cheers

Nick
:thumbsup:

if the tracks loose low grip we run them slightly tight, if its high grip we back em of a touch,

i build mine as per manual then fill them with my chosen oil:p:thumbsup::woot:

plus 1 :thumbsup:

Then buy lots of kitchen roll and follow the trail of oil around the track...:p

:p:pI get mine built by a few top UK drivers:p:p

I don't re-build diff's, do you know who I am??? haha

never heard of you dude? :p

You will, I am like a bad infection, I don't go away easily hahahahahaha

I think what Nick means is is there a way of building a BALL diff so that it is free and smooth but doesn't slip too much under drive. You Durango lot go and do something useful like fix all the bits on your cars that weren't designed properly!:thumbsup:

Who!!!?? never heard of you! :p

So who helps you out? could do with some diff building tips!?

:thumbsup:

we cant coz there all out of stock:woot:

I never sand the plates but i do rotate them after a rebuild and replace them after both side have been used. I use AE diff silicone oil (clear) and put it in the diff gear and fit the balls, And on both sides of the plates before putting it all together.

I tighten the diff screw until the T-nut / spring is fully compressed then back it off 1/8th of a turn. checking in hand to make sure its not notchy, If it is i back it off another 1/8th..........

I then put it in the car and with the slipper set as instruction manual i hold the Spur and one wheel (front or rear) the spin the other wheel (front or rear) the slipper should slip before the diff. If so i then set the slipper by testing it on the surface and setting to personal preference dependant on conditions.

Mike

agreed and the biggest thing take your time,black grease on thrust race silicone on the main balls

Haha Nick, cheers dude!!!

The diff Daddy helps me most!!! Mike Williams, also Simon Moss has built me some sweet diff's:thumbsup:
I am sure these guys would help you out.

And Mike will now always be known as the 'Diff Daddy', good job! :thumbsup:

His reputation will only grow now:thumbsup:

I give mine to the original diff daddy, the one from the NE ;)

G

it all sounds a bit cryptic all this diff daddy stuff, what about diff 'bastards' such as myself and Nick?:thumbsup: We just have to make do with over tight slightly notchy diffs

Then seek advice from the "Diff Daddy":thumbsup:

And who is this Graham???

You cant really go too wrong building a smooth diff. You can wet dry the plates just helps reduce diff slip and flattens the plates (gets rid of high spots) but personally i dont bother with I trust xray have pressed them well for my touring car diffs :).

People swear by schumacher diff lube and associated black grease and is what i tend to use. The main thing to made it smooth clean and keep everything flush and renew parts regularly. I tend to use carbide balls aswell theyre a bit harder and last longer than my kit xray ones.

You can also use a shock foam inside the outdrive which does help keep dirt out of the thrust lengthens the time of rebuilding the diff again.

I did use a tutorial from radio race car magazine where they did a step by step guide to building a diff was really handy. Think it went as far as having a slave motor attached to bed it in :eh?: bit ott to be honest.

I never rebuild mine :thumbsup:

you dont need to coz you dont get round the first corner before you rip the front arms off:p

Oi! I finished all 4 rounds on friday (just!)

i know:oyou were flying:woot:

TRF Racing UK will have a complete how to guide soon....... ;-)

Just to clear something up...

Diff plates are ground... You'll never get them "flatter" with wet n dry, all you'll do is make them worse.

I clean everything off as well as i can, use a tiny amount of cear (i prefer associated) grease on the outdrive, put the ring onto it, and clean off any excess, then put a tiny smear on both rings, nothing on the balls or the gear. thrust race i use black (again associated) and plenty of it.