AE shock build
 

I searched through the past 5 pages of this forum but couldn't find anything on filling shocks, mine are either solid or full of air atm, anyone point me to the relevant tips/articles? :)

fill the body of the shock with oil. slowly compress the shaft to get any air bubbles out and return shaft to full extension. fill the shock cap 1/4 full of oil and in a quick motion screw cap 1/23 way on and slowly bleed oil/air.

you should have a smooth feeling shock now.

my trick is I drill bleed hole in the side of the cap at a 45deg downangle and use the tiny button head screws that are used to capture the hingepins as bleed screws. this allows you to get the most consistent shock build I have been able to find.

ben

there is a link to an article that elvo wrote that is superb, anyone remember it?

elvo's article was awesome for the building, however it totally skipped one of the most vital parts, filling them. I managed to get them better than they were, i think drilling bleed holes is the only way to get them perfect though :wtf:

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/12/8/1.html

;)

Nice one SouthWell, beat me to it :)

Between pages 9 and 11 the shocks magically fill themselves with oil though :p

why have i never seen that link befor!!!

the spacer filling is a blackart , ive been told about it many times but never seen it online..nice one..but i have to say that bathys and my 3 sets of b4 shocks where all build by the Pitmoneky on sunday with out any of this magic and all 4 sets are working fine...this dosnt mean i will not try Evos magic next time.


One question, how come there is no mention of filling the shocks and bumping the air out of the shocks?

quick tip
build as per elvo, but when filling with oil add oil to just below top, bleed buy moving piston up and down to get rid of caught air,fill to top with piston at the bottom,put top on lightly,then lean shock over slightly so that the air bubble inside is facing the threads on one side only,then push up shock shaft and piston so air is expelled through the threads leaving oil in and no air.leave piston at the top of the shock and hold it there while u tighten the cap down hand tight,
perfect every time

Actually they don't fill themselves at all. Those are still in a cardboard box somewhere, bone dry :)

hmm, mini t shocks didn't handle too well in my experience :D

Perhaps this article could help you.

http://www.rayspeed.jp/index2.html


Take a look on the "Techtips" section.

there are lots of photos of "how to prepare the asso shocks"

yeah think I get the idea now, just practice I guess, still think bleed screws are required for perfection though :p

Could you plz post some pictures of your shock-caps just to show what you made?
thx

Lowie

Yoke shock caps have this as standard, No idea if they would fit the AE shocks but here is a picture to give you a better idea of the bleed screw Ben mentioned

I found an article in an american magazine describing this style of damper "These don't actually have a bladder at all, the oil and air mix to form a froth for the piston to move through" :o Think you got too much air in them mate ! :eh?:

Do not use the tears of a gypsy instead of the oil, it will handle, like you say, shit!

I recomend this..

Yokomo shockAP art number: YS-8D

Mounted

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...4/S5030286.jpg

That's on an associated shock I assume? how they actually work/what do they do? :)

First, sorry for my bad English.

I would like to restart this thread, to recomplie different opinions about all different configurations.

O-rings:

• Associated: Does it needs to change it regularly?
• MIP: Does it tends to break?
• Nortech Racing: people says that work well
• Mugen MRX4(MU-D0509) : too much presure on shaft due to its size, but seems to work well

Caps:
- Emulsion Type:

• Normal asso: very dificult to adjust all shocks presure similarly
• Drilled asso: easy to configure, but dificult to make the perfect hole (angle, screew size, drill hole size ...)
• Drilled Yokomo YS8Y: same as uppon but just with drilled hole, but Does it have diferent air capacity?

- Bladder Type:

• Associated VCS2: no data how it works
• Yokomo YS-8D: no data how ir works
• Tamiya rubber diaphragm with asso caps: no data how ir works

Some people recomend to drill a small hole on black caps to avoid re-bound.

Why new Asso products (TC5 and RC8) have bladder shocks type? Why not new B44? Really works better Emulsion only on B4 and B44?
What do you think? Emulsion? Bladder? Which o-ring? Which Caps?

They have just cahnged the RC8 shocks to emulsion shocks.... ;)

I know which o-rings I like :rolleyes:

I have drilled my AE shock caps just to blead them :D

G

Thanks Northy,

But for emulsioned socks type with drilled cup, it's a nightmare to drill the perfect hole.

On yokomo cups the hole ends perfectly on cups bottom (more space to screw and better to not leak oil from mini-screw)

If you drill a little more big hole or you not end hole on just cups bottom, risk to leak is high.

I am looking for a photo/video (drill cups perfect hole - home made) making off.

Also pictures or video how to fill oil in this type of shock and how to bleeding it rigth. I think it's not the same as asso manual, cause I think shaft position when fill and bleeding is different.

Any volunteer? :D

PD: Asso is forgetting its users. See HB manuals or Tips on its web page. Also its drivers offers support on one know forum.

When you remove the seals does this damage the little clip that holds all in place? Do you just push all the seals out from the body or is there a technique to their removal?

thanks, john

Get the AE shock building tool fron the bottom of the shock at a slight angle and push the clip bit out then replace o rings then click it back togertehr again.

A

cool, thanks ash.

Does any one know where or can anybody make a vid and throw it on You tube how to bleed theese F***ing shocks so that the travel is correct and there is no air in them.

ta :p

its imposible not to get air in there,the only way you could get all oil and no air would be to do it submerged in oil,you have to mix the oil with the air by pumping the piston,also iv found you get more air in there doing it by the manual,it says to pull the piston all the way down then undo the cap,all this does is suck more air in,i find it better to push the piston up slowly as you undo the cap,put the cap on tight see how far the shaft comes out,if its to far push the shaft,undo the cap and keep the shaft pressed in untill a bit of oil come out,do the cap up tight and it should come out less,if its to far do it again,
all i can say is it workes for me and the shocks are smooth and all the same,

Why oh why do 10th scale not use the same shock designs as their larger 1/8th scale brothers ?

vcs2 upgrade kit
 

i found this on the ae forum, works a treat :) http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...t=&#entry18600

I bought that VCS2 upgrade kit but it didnt fit on my B4 shock bodies. Fitted on my TC4 bodies though, so im confused! I thought the threads on the AE bodys were all similar? Or do i have a dodgy set of B4 bodies??

Ben

Been thinking of changing my to Losi shocks after finding my rear shocks not pushing out properly last night. I find the AE shocks a nightmare to build :(

i find ae shocks so easy to do, if anyone wants theres doing, or me to show them how to come see me at tallywain,

They are easy to build, but they arn't anywhere near as easy/consistant as Losi shocks.

Dont seem to have a problem with AE shocks now.. think it just takes practice...

Ben

As Ben has said I always found them quite easy to build, Losi shocks are easier and a little more consistant to build but I think the ae shocks do work better on the B4.

They are supposed to have some air in them mixed with the oil.

There are two main shock types.

1. Emulsion shocks - these mix air and oil to allow the shock rod to move in to the shock.

2. Bladder / diaphagm shocks - these keep the air and oil separate with a membrane (bladder)

AE and LOSI shocks are both emulsion shocks

I'm switching to Losi shocks this week, so will let you know how I get on and will do a comparision between the two. I am crap at these things thou (IT Techie, but crap engineer!)