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Next generation Lazer ZX-5
Reading this article on Red RC, one must wonder what the new Lazer will look like.
"Not on the stand but expected to be released at the start of summer is the new FS 4wd electric buggy which is expected to feature a new carbon chassis for LiPo saddle packs and have the motor moved further to the rear." Carbon chassis would be a major change to the basic concept of the car, but it sounds quite decent to move the motor further to the rear of the car to ensure the best balance. Anyone seen any pictures or heard anything else? |
new fs
i was just about to order my fs tommorow reading you post on the new car in just a couple of months i think i minght just wait!
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sounds like the exact same concept of Fabiens chassis for the ZX-5, where the LiPo saddle is moved as far back as possible, to allow the motor to be moved back further.
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Kyosho likes these upgrade kits so why not one containing a chassis, topdeck and centre driveshafts etc.
If those are the main differences, it would be possible. |
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ive seen shins 'latest' car with new chassis for lipo etc (NEW CAR) Its not much different to the current car tbh. i guess you could just buy the chassis when it came out. the motor looked to be in the same postition, but probably moved a few mm. The battery 'tabs' are wider apart to accom lipos.. i just had to shave mine off on the FS.. no big deal.;)
the best is the new battery posts for lipo.. those look mint :D alloy anodized.. ive got pics on my phone i could post. but if your looking to buy the lazer, id buy the current one (FS) and just get the necessary upgrades. ive only just had the FS, i'll probably just get the new chassis and battery posts when they come out, because it looks smart. the new shell i like too... its high to better accom all the electrics and wiring below. But i guess this is just personal preference. so bottom line is.. just buy the FS if your looking for a 4-wd car. There isnt much geometry change. You can always buy the optional parts if it really concerns you. Car is mint! cheers gurdy |
new lazer fs
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Hi Guys,
Just got myself ZX-5 FS bummer i hope they do bring out upgrade kit. Also when are these new bodies coming out they do look rather sexy :wub |
I have looked carefully on the pics of Shins car and nothing looks different except for the red colour and the body. No geometry change what so ever. Looks rather standard to me.
Dont think that's it. Think there will be more change than that. |
May someone post the Link of it, please.
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the link
ive put the link above pal
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new fs
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lazer zx5 fs conversion
I have just bought and fitted the fs conversion kit to my old zx5 which is pretty cost effective for all those zx's that are about that need updating. well worth a look.
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The FS sp or whatever it wil be called is hardly different to the current car.
It will be the same Carbon composit chassis (not Carbon Fibre!!) It will just be easier to fit lipo. Also it will have a new higher bodyshell at the front to accomodate brushless systems better. So if you already got an FS you just need to dremel the Battery tabs a little and be careful where you route the motor wires. Its not a big change. |
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Yes,
The picture you saw of shins car is the prototype car. |
Thanks Neil for the clarifications. now i just need a new rb5sp and a truck :D
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I had to make NO modifications to my FS to fit the Robotronic LiPos in, nothing at all (ok, 4 off the taller batt posts not 2 of each as per kit but that is it!!!!).
The new body isn't as nice as the current FS body in my opinion but style is a matter of personal taste so no biggy. To get everything under my FS shell I just didn't cut the base to thecut lines, rather left it full height and I've plenty of clearance and the car only looks slightly fuller figured than a car with a body to stock cut lines (and a little podgy matches it's owner ;) ) I along with a lot of people who where at Petit spoke at length with Shin about the revisions to the cars and to be honest they aren't changing much this year. The best thing coming is a very trick new slipper assembly .... now that will set the car apart from anything else out there in terms of drive-line tunability and could make the difference to many people between a car that performs superbly and something too awesome for words .... now that is an upgrade kit to look out for (Shin suggested that he hoped it would be around by the end of March / early April in Japan which means the rest of the world would get it a few weeks later for logistical reasons ... but no promises on that date) |
Hey Roger,
The slipper was supposed to be top secret!!!:woot: Oh well the cats out the bag now i guess |
LOL thats no secret now then... :D
Still, its no bad thing to leak a little info on a brand new part, keeps the punters interested... :) |
Lol if the slipper was supposed to be top secret how come he told everyone about it ? Or didn't say it was such a big secret.
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Something to do with the pin being placed infront of the Slipper?
What is the benifits & improvements running this on the car. Just I'm in the process having mine built, is it worth doing this straight away or try kit first Thanks |
We run the car with the pin, it makes the slipper like a normal slipper, if you don't have the pin in, the front and rear driveshafts are independant and the level of slip depends on the pad you're running, with the white pad slipping before the red one. Having it fixed makes the car easier on power.
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LOL ... SHin never told me to keep that under my hat (not that there is a lot of room under there with all my hair ....)
To be fair, all I said was it is going to be a great addition to an already near perfect chassis!!! :thumbsup: I want one, I want one noooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwww:cry: |
Carlin, as for the "direct" or pinned slipper set up give the car a go in it's stock form and if you feel that you need a lot more rear end then lock slipper to direct mode, if you just want a bit then go with the normal separate arrangement but with a pair of white pads (so the two ends of the car are still independant but have the same nominal rate of slip).
I personally feel that having the slipper in direct mode gives too much rear end grip for my liking, I prefer the car in separate mode but with matched (white) pads in place. The Kyosho cars are the most tunable out there, not much we can't do other than front inner hinge pin width .. watch this space on that too;) ) but to be fair the box stock set-up is a good starting point. Only thing I am suggesting to people is if they like a smoother car start with the 10deg castor blocks and I prefer silver #70 front springs to the kit yellows. Other than that it's a one box car, buy build, race, smile:thumbsup::thumbsup: |
The prototype car has all the beautiful red alloy. Will the new kit come in that color or will it just stay blue?
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Cheers Nick |
The new slipper is a bit more clever than just a pin in and out affair.
Shin did try to explain but as far as i could guess it has drive on power and acts like a one way off. Im not really sure on the exacts but it was something he was quite pleased about!! |
canīt tell any diffrences to the `óldī one because i donīt know it , but it looks ace specially with the red aloy!
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a pin in and out affair.. i have bad issues with the rear being loose on power.. can someone elaborate on this?
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also, anyone notice, on the front, for the steering, he is using set screws or something instead of button head screws.. whats that about??
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The theory is thus ... Slipper in separate mode allows front and rear to react separately and by using pads with different nominal coefficients of friction (red is grippier than white) you can bias which end the power goes to in preference. Red in front = more front drive, red in rear = more rear drive Direct (pin in) mode locks the front and rear together to make it feel more like a conventional 4wd, gives even power delivery to both ends of the car and just one slipping point. The though is this, direct makes the car feel more "normal 4wd" and gives a more reward balance on power. My preference is separates but matched pads, that gives the advantages of letting the end with more traction still get the largest % of drive BUT tends to an even balance over all so if both have the same level of traction the car will drive 'normally'. It is worth playing with, direct mode makes the car feel too dead and locked in at the rear compared to the separate mode ... some will prefer that but I think one of the key points that makes the FS top of the tree is the slipper ... although all, including Shin, will admit you have to experiment to get what suits you but when you do :thumbsup::woot: |
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I am not sure as I would expect what you suggest G' but I can assure you that on the track you can definitely feel the front of the car dig in and grip as you jump on the throttle even though it should in theory have the least tire load. I think the signifcant difference is that the FS doesn't transfer anywhere near as much weight rearwards, it certainly doesn't "squat" when you punch it (this was always what I was fighting with the BJ4/B44/D4 style cars weight distribution ... not checked it absolutely but in hand the FS feels similar to a saddle Pred with NiMhs in .. should really corner weight the car shouldn't I).
I am not familiar with the set-up on the D4 but the FS assembly has no thrust race or similar in place ... answers on a post card |
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Kyosho would do a moulded chassis for the off-road cars as it's the best solution to the problem;
1) keeps dirt out 2) flexes a bit so makes the car more forgiving but can easily be stiffened up if requried 3) can take knocks without the risk of delaminating etc. 4) can have any angled / cureved features as part of it reducing part count. I have always thought that an off-road car isn't finished until it has a moulded chassis on it ... flat carbon is fine for prototypes as it so easy to mock up and modify but if your going to sell them by the truck load ... well the mould tool makes a lot of sense! |
Kind of reminds me of tamiya's double slipper for the DB01 54061.
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any thoughts on th price range of this new lazer
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