Diff rough as hell after 1 meeting !
 

Ran the B-Max (the cheap one...) for the first time indoors and the diffs now feel rough as hell !

Are the balls in the diffs cheap as chips ones, and will they be shot ?
Can I use balls from elsewhere (any recommendations) as the Yokomo ones look very expensive.

Try ghostrc for decent balls?

Sounds a bit strange?

Anyway I used Edit diff balls in my old B max they are about £10 per pack

I'd check out the Vampire ones from Dms too as they are a good price

the problem will be the trust plates .
have a look at them they will be heave damigd .
and that hapens very quikly if it is set verry ticht .
the rest of the dif is verry good and works perfect if U chage the trust bearing.

I know the standard diff balls are steel not carbide and wear very quickly,
AE or losi ones are the same size and last ages, as pointed out the thrust assembly could be a problem as well, but by just changing the diff balls and plates you will see a big difference.

Peter

The large diff balls are the same size as AE balls (3/32), but the thrust balls aren't the same (1/16). As stated above, they are regular steel and will wear faster. Especially if: 1- You didn't break in your diffs before your first run with them, 2- You didn't surface your diff rings 3- You overtightenend your diffs or 4- You ran the diffs too loose. I believe #3 and 4 are the major diff killers...

I used Yokomo Tungsten carbide balls to rebuild the diffs (a pack of 12x 3/32 was 11$ US I believe) both for the diff ring balls as well as the Thrust bearings. I also believe ACER racing has free international shipping these days for their bearings. You can give them a look...

You can flip the diff rings and use the other side if there is a deep groove in them. But if the balls now have a flat spot in them, they are toast. try rebuilding them like this and turn them by hand. You'll know if they are toast because they will be notchy.

Good components (hardened diff balls)+ good diff building(surfacing+ break in)+ proper adjustment = long lasting diffs!

Hope this helps a bit!:thumbsup:

are they not metric in the bmax??

Nope it's 3/32 and 1/16 mine is smooth with some ceramic balls from ABEC35

Change the balls and get other diff rings as the stock rings are
to soft, i used harder rings that is from Yokomo dont have any
part number right now, they are polished on one side and greyish
on the other side, they are harder And last way longer

If ever you get a part number to share with us it would be much appreciated!:thumbsup:

Not sure if you mean these are new Yokomo Diff rings, or perhaps another manufacturer ?
Can you elaborate ?

for the trustbearing U can replace it with one of a TRF version thay are almost the same size .
just need a bit of handyman work done

I think they are from the shaft driven touring car or a drift car

The part number you are looking for are ZS-506.
The SD cars and the BD have them in the diff

Hmm
 

Are you the french police man from ello ello !

"Listn i vill spell this unly once!!!!"

Need to use a better translator !!

Thrust
heavy damage
happens
very tight
diff very
change thrust

just for your information: you can use this type of diffrings also on both sides (on the polished and on the greyish side). so we did it in our old Yokomo K3, K4, K5, SD, CGM und BD...

i use the vampire racing ceramic balls in my diffs right from the beginning, together with the original b-max diff rings. sometimes i clean the diffs but still run the first set of diff rings and balls since a couple of month.
normally it helps to clean the thrust bearing and just re-use it. or use hardened thrust balls and rotate the thrust bearing rings from time to time.

befor comment look at my location.

and not using a translator.
U tray it in the NETHERLAND than

lol bondy.... as bart says he is from belgium so his spelling will always be crap but a very clever man he is never the less so we cant hold it against him.... having said that i will get him an officer crabbtree avitar to keep everyone happy when he says zis onli once :wtf:

What a stupid or at least very regrettable, unfortunate comment.
Now, if only you would have added some winks, we might think you were joking.
As Phoenix said, he's Flemish, does know how to talk ENglish but hardly learned how to write it. He is a man with a lot of RC-experience (Belgian National Champion 4WD 1/10th offroad 2009) and despite his lack of English-writing skills, still tries to give advice to people who might need it.
Why should we bother?

ok, and now go ahead and correct all my mistakes as well (I'm also Flemish speaking)

Stupid
 

Sorry Feniks

No insult intended . your post just made me giggle when I read it and reminded me of ello ello
:eh?::D:D:D:D:woot::thumbsup:

Mr Bondy ...
I'm glad that you editted your post.
My comments were on your post ... and not your intelligence as I thought was clear in my previous post.

glad this got sorted out.

Chaps.

Thanks for all the replies, i've now got lots of place to get diff balls etc ! Just trying to decide what to buy and what not to buy !

Might just try turning the plates and getting a new thrust bearing for now.

Try that and then turn it by hand. If it feels smooth, go for it. If it's notchy, chuck the balls for new ones...

Check out this great video on diff building by Redrc
http://www.redrc.net/2009/07/pro-tip...oskamp-part-2/