RB5 Build Tips
 

I've just ordered an RB5 so i thought i would start a thread to pick peoples brains for anything they have altered on their cars to improve them.

After speaking to a friend i've got a couple already;

1 - replace the diff balls with ceramics (a given as i own a ZX5!)

2 - replace certain ball studs such as the rear inboard camber link with balls that have a hex driver head, so they can be changed with a ball head allen driver to save taking the rear end off each time you want to alter the location!

3 - lead in the front to help with on power under steer (cheers Stu!)

any other tips?

Jim, my tip is to buy your B4 back.;)

everyones a comedian!! Although it did go well at the weekend, well happy with B2.

Waynes tip was read the manual - ta for that! :rolleyes:

you got a part number for this part?

no i don't sorry. I was going to use balls and cups from a different car as i'm not sure if Kyosho do these. The HPI cyclone ones have a hex driver head, i just need to check the threads are long enough.

Anyone know of an online RB5 manual anywhere?
cheers

When building the slipper, make sure you squash the spring tightly as i built mine without squashing the spring in the hope that the tension on the nut would suffice.

This weekend i went to back the slipper off as the car is loveing to wheelie and the nut is that far back that the nyloc nut is almost off the threads lol. i only noticed as the little pop off cover wouldnt even sit on the spur gear cover as the nut was in its way lol.:D

Col.:cool:

Also, try the kyosho balls first, unlike the zx5 ones, mine is 3 meetings old and still abso perfect, The zx5 std balls would have lasted about 5 mins lol. Its prob the fact that its not under as much strain and for some reason, the diff gets away with being able to run quite loose.... Unsure as to why but its fine.

I'll prob upgrade come rebuild time, but as of yet that seems quite a distance away.

Col.:cool:

I think the ceramic diff balls will be my next purchase. the diff (for some reason) seems to atract so much dirt into it, it rediculous.
I stripped it down before the bury meeting because it was making a horrid gritty noise and the balls were really dirty.
then after running at bury it feels the same again.
so its time for another strip down and to purchase some new balls!:o

Also it may be worth to get some titanium turnbuckles. as i managed to snap one of the std ones on its first test, due to a awkward landing. I just used some of the lundsford B4 ones.

good point on the slipper Colin. i noticed that on my freinds at the weekend. very slippy dusty track and backed it off so far that the nylock wasn't engaged any more!

The B4 blue turnbuckles are a direct fit and match the kyosho blue!

No chance ! :p ;)

http://www.oople.com/downloads/rb5-manual.pdf

hth

ah! LegEnd! i thought i'd seen it on oople somewhere but couldn't for the life of me find a link!

Losi xxx-cr ballstuds have the hex on the top

3/8” Standard Neck HD (A6027)
.345 Short Neck HD (A6029)

you can also get the nice Ti ones for approx £9 for 2 :D :D

Stu

Ti turnbuckles - stock ones bend easy. I used Lunsford B4 ones.

Stock Diff balls are better quality than the ZX5 ones. but if you are building it up and have ceramics handy....

Be careful with the ball studs and end caps as the RB5 uses a bigger sized ball stud

Proline rear axle conversion if you are coming off a Losi or B4 and have a ton of wheels aready.

Pick up some extra Blue spacers and you can use them to replace some of the plastic ones in the kit.

A tip while building and make maintenance easier.

File/dremel the heads on the hingepin-retaining screws, so you only need to turn the screws a half turn and pass the pin through the cutout.

Explaining pic below :)
Attachment 923

Thats just bein lazy!:D

But surely if you get to much vibration and the screw turns the pin may be able to escape?:o

Fot the sake of turning the screw a few more times, I'll leave mine as they are.

I'd also be quite worried if my car fell apart with just a 1/2 turn of a screw :p Also the proline axle conversion won't be too much use, someone bought all his wheels and tyres! :o (muahaha :D)

Since it's screwed in plastic, there's almost no way they'll turn just by vibration.. I've done this on all my Yok SD's and lately the TF5 Stallions, Lazer and RB5.
Some of the retaining screws is a pain to screw with a longer driver, so filing the screws makes the wrenching a lot easier..

Original diff-balls...
 

I think the RB5 diff-balls last much longer than those on the ZX5. I've been running my RB5 for about 2 months and the diff still feels smooth.

A good idea for the build: use Associated ball-diff grease instead of the stock one.

Greets, Chris

how do tungsten carbide ball diffs compared to ceramic ones?
the latter costs double ..

the associated tungsten carbide balls are pretty good, probably better than the kit ones. ceramics just last forever and hardly ever need a rebuild.

when building the shock body (p20, no.30), what does the oring do?
ensures the collar doesn't move?

the o-ring is preventing me from adjusting the collar .. i cannot even turn my collar up (to lower the car) once the collar has covered all the thread .... something must be wrong somewhere.

yes the o'ring stops the collar from loosening during a race and therefor moving unwatedly.
Did you put some oil on the threads before you started to put the colar on? This adds lubrication to the shock body, making it easie to put them on and gives you less chance of cross threading the whole thing.
Hopefully you haven't already cross threaded them:o and thats preventing you from screwing the the collars up.

Mine went on fine with the oil on, but are a little tight without it, but not imposible to screw up or down.

check for cross threading. hopefully its ok.

the manual also showed another plastic part as well as the adjuster. I think this was a mistake in the manual as this part doesn't go over the threads so makes adjustment impossible. I just didn't use it!

yes .. that's the offensive part # 109 :wtf:


yes, i did apply oil on the o-ring before adjusting the collar.
funny, i just have the problem on both front shock bodies. the rear ones are ok. what the .. :eh?:

will have a look at the buggy again.

shock collars
 

btw, found this on the rc-car setup website.
on the front shock tower .. see how the collar is positioned the right way? the little sleeve is facing downwards?


http://www.rc-car-setup.com/bilder/r...7b6117fc80e479


see how it is on the rear?
the collar seems to be inverted, the sleeve is facing upwards. i have a similar problem, but only the other way around (i.e. on the front shock bodies instead of the rear).
perhaps i got my shock collars mixed up.
but i wasn't aware the shock collars were for specific shocks and not interchangeable

http://www.rc-car-setup.com/bilder/r...afafdca687f699

the shock collars are all the same. do idea why this guy has his upside down on the rear, the springs will rub on the shock body. Possibly turn them upside down if you need to wind the thread right to the end for maximum ride height. turning them this way up will give you a fraction more height without the collar losing the thread.

Just a quick one on the upturned collars...

Mine is the opposite way around, facing upwards on the front, simply because one of them cross threaded when I put it together out of the box.
For some reason the collar will go all the way to the top when screwed on upside down, but for the life of me, it just won't go past the O Ring when screwed on the correct way round.... Even with a ton of lube...

There could be an entirely different reason for the guy in the picture, but that's what I've found....

Mart