problem with axle
 

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=2730does anyone has seen this before on the Durango.

I have, send it back and get a replacement

thanks

i have get for free:

2 axles and 2 outdrives. Durango thanks

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...IMG_1115_2.jpg

this is mine. Outdrive & the plastic ring that slips over the outdrive are damaged in the process. Emailed TD last sunday & Adam 2-3 days ago and have yet to receive a reply. Anyone help? :cry:

Teinsports
You only pm'd me yesterday afternoon not 2-3 days ago!
Best thing to do is send your parts back to your distributor. They should replace your parts free of charge.
If not get back in touch with me on oople.

im really dissapointed with the quality of durango.

I can understand if I paid at b44 $320 prices, but not at $650us, I expect a kit that will be better than the rest in terms of quality.

to date I have only finished 50% of my heats/races. I have not had a 4wd that breaks down as much as this. Now when im driving, im actually expecting something to fall apart and not finish.

if its not bad enough spending $650us on a kit, you need some aftermarket parts to make it durable right from the off.
solid drive pins, ball cups & AE/HB ball studs to suit. These are issues durango need to sort out in their new kits.

To be fair every car will have it's draw backs & there will always be something common to fail on it stock out the box.
Especially when it's not been out on the market very long, it's abit unfair to slate the companys on public forums.
If theres a problem you should go through the proper channels & be patient for their reply as there will probably always be alot of work going on.

If it's built properly & well maintained every few meetings you shouldn't have so many problems.

Most of the failures I see are due to prolonged wear & tear or previously damaged/worn parts that havn't been replaced or attended well enough to.

I've had the same problem with drive shafts mike, in fact most of the problems with the car are not down to poor builds or maintenance and have been experienced by most owners, including team drivers.

please also remember that most of the extra cost in this buggy is from the long development process and the prototyping for the last ten years. If it was a car that came to be within the last year, the design would not have been so clever. Then, since less money would be spent on R&D, they could put it into higher quality materials in the small places like bearings, drive pins, ball cups. But we wouldn't have a great layout and trick handling that we have with this car. They had to save some money somewhere to keep the cost down.

Quite frankly, I would like to see molded side pods instead of the (really nice) machined aluminum pieces. They could save a small bit of weight and put that cost savings into other areas that need it.

And as far as the good parts going bad (axles for instance) most of the time this comes from the manufacturing company the parts are being outsourced from. It only takes one dyslexic person to read a spec wrong to ruin a whole batch of parts. People make mistakes.

i have to agree to a certain extent. The ball cups, bearings, axles, front uprights, driveshaft pins have proven to suffer from premature failure, something i would not expect from a car of this standard. There are a total of 3 running kits at my track in Singapore and these premature failures had somewhat made others allude to the fact that its a 'Made in Taiwan' car. Till now, i have only broke 1 x front arm, 1 x front upright, bent 2 hingepins but most of the other pit stops are attributed by the smaller breakages/failures which just makes you feel so helpless, esp during a heat/race. Anyway, im quite sure the guys at TD would get these sorted. :thumbsup:

everyone will have there own opinion,and i think people have the right to voice there opinion,as long as its not offensive but constructive,Adam has always been more than helpfull and unlike most they dont just sell it then forget about you,i have to agree that its not just a case of poor maintenance,i love the car and its realy nice to work on(apart from replacing the rear wing mount:woot:)but its the little things like the pins,bearings,iv had no issue with the rear since i use the middle of a bearing instead of the crush washer:thumbsup:just need somthing to replace the front one now,i can think on another car that falls to bits as soon as it turns a wheel and its not just a £3 washer or pin:p.

well i ame very happy with my free new axles and outdrives, i have mailed them send a picture with it. they mailed me back about the part numbers.
2 weeks later i have them for free no shipping charges.
Great servise! and don't forget they are a new rc car brand that's why the durango dex 410 is expensive, if they are making rc cars for a longer time they will get cheaper in price like associated.

be fair people, the DEX410 is a 6 month old car, if even, and durango is obviously working at fixing the problems. . . . . . . associated's parts quality and finish has only continued to deteriorate over time, so durango has them beat . . . . .give them time - - - - it seems to be isolated events, not mass product

i can agree with this for $650us you would expect things to stay together not break or fall a part there has been a couple dx410 running at our club so far one cought fire cos the rear propshaft pin came out and piersed a lipo not good and the other has finished about three races in one piece im not saying the car isn't a good car before you lot have pop what im saying is when you spend 650 on somthing you would expect it to stay in one piece.

stu

The cost doesn't prevent it from breaking, or decrease preventative maintenance in any way. I've been racing from the age of 10, and have had $7000 front suspensions (motocross) fall apart, even with extreme pre-race preparation and knowledge of the suspension. Parts break. Some more than others. The owner of a DEX410 must learn it's weak points, same as all the other cars.
If you think it's gonna be better because it's more expensive, you're very inexperienced, and should start with a lesser car, more to your skill level. 4wd might not be for you.
I found most of the 410's ailments in the first 2 times I tested the car. Not from driving alone, but from driving and then INSPECTING for loose screws, bent parts, cracks, scrapes, binding, etc. If you're not prepared to learn your car, and do a little work in the pits, you'll never enjoy a cutting edge 4wd RC.
Learn your car, know what to expect from it, and the rest is pure fun!

Thats nice to hear. Im still waiting for Adam to get things sorted. Apparently, the China/Hong Kong distributor categorized this as a wear & tear failure:confused: and sent me a list of Tresrey option parts instead.

Very nicely put:thumbsup:

The problem is many people jump on the pre -order list when new cars come out so they can be amongst the first to own one.
These cars have been tested by team drivers who,s skill level is way above the average drivers therefore imo they dont really get the sort of abuse joe public throws at them.
The true test of reliability comes once the racing public have had their hands on them for a few months, they will crash heavier ,land heavier and generally give the car much more abuse than team drivers. This is when you really find out what a car has in the way of strength and weakness.
It will be interesting to find out how the cougar sv fares when released to the public.

I'm not sure what all these major problems are that you are having with the car, mine is box stock apart from:

£1 worth of drive pins
Option springs
Drilled pistons

And I have found it to be a very strong and reliable car.

Perhaps some of you guys need to learn how to build a car for the abuse we give them these days on the track with the power we have. There is more than one way to build to the manual ;) No matter how much you spend on a kit, if it is thrown together it will not be reliable :(

G

Was yours one of the first batch or later Northy?

One of the first. :)

G

Mine is much the same, plus the weight set. I've had next to nothing go wrong on it since I got it at launch.

Lost a few races early on through cvd pins coming loose, but I've had that on just about every car I've had this style of drive shaft on, but that's cos I didn't put that part together right, not because Gerd designed it badly.

Just because something costs £450, doesn't mean you don't take care in building it, maybe those who have had problems with ball ends, drive shaft pins, bearings etc, should get a RTR car, as this might be a touch much for them;)

It's a bit like what Clarkson said about buying a used kit car, would you want one made my someone like James May, who will take his time, or do you want it built by a shaved ape like Clarkson?

I think suggesting anyone that has a warrenty claim on a Durango part should get a rtr is a stupid comment
I've started racing and building cars over 15 years ago and am perfectly capable of putting a kit together and I had a faulty driveshaft which was replaced by Adam no problems.

I find this to be the stongest car I have owned, just with some teething trouble experianced by quite a few owners, obviously you've been ok but I don't think that's down to you being able to build the car better than the rest of us shaved apes

I think this is an unfair statement to make. Can you show us how you build ball ends, drive shaft pins and bearings?? :confused:

I don't think anyone over here is flaming the car, just stating a simple fact that there are quality issues with certain parts of the car.

I would have to say that although the car is a beautiful piece of engineering, the only thing that let the car down was the manual.

I've been racing for over 30 years and have built RC cars from probably all the major manufacturers and to be honest the Durango manual left a lot to be desired, espceially when you are spending over £450 on the kit! :cry:

What helped me a huge amount during the build was to use the Durango manual in conjunction with the fantastic step by step build article onn this oOple web site. There were some nice build tips that helped me along.

Also there were issues with parts being in the wrong bags which left me head scratching for a while during a couple of the build sections.

I haven't run the car in anger yet but it certainly looks well built and I have faith that it will perform well too.

As far as manuals go, I think Xray currently offer the very best in terms of build manuals and the supportive documentation about setup has been invaluable. I think the guys at Durango should follow suit and spend a little time on sorting out their documentation and their quality control in the picking/packing department.

Can't wait to launch the car off the start line :thumbsup:, though I'm going to have a wait until March at least so I can get a bigger bodyshell as I can't get all my electrics under the tight fitting kit version :(

Here Here, well said HyperFX

hold up chaps lets put this in perspective the picture shows a drive pin has come out now come on this shouldn't happen on any car let alone a £450 car testing or no testing bugs or no bugs its a pretty poor show thats not the sort of part maintance realy covers yes you could pre empted the pin starting to come loose but you cant do nothing about it apart from renew the part.

okey that's true, but can you explain to me how i prevent that the pins flying out of the axles, (the ones that are at the outdrives.)

thats the point you cant if it hasn't been made very well it will come apart.

Or if it's been badly built.....

The basic design is no different to any other CVD style driveshaft :bored:

G

Heat shrink over the drive shaft.

but you dont build the drive pins! the factory does

out drive end not cv joint end

I will get my coat and keep my nose out of things I dont know about. All cars have teething troubles when these are sorted it will be one of the best cars out there if not the best.

Fair enough, thought people were moaning about the CVD pin. If the component fails prematurely then contact TD - super service.

The tolerances on the hole for that pin must be super critical though if you think about it, a little too big and the pin can work loose, a little too small that the end of the driveshaft could be damaged during assembly....

G

[IMG]http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/3...2009237.th.jpg[/IMG]

I give up:bored:

....

? :eh?:

Guys, apologies for jumping in on something I'm no expert on, but is there any chance this specific failure could be from momentary jamming of the driveshaft in the outdrive, from setting too much droop (assuming its possible)?

The only time I've had one fail on my cars ws when I had set too much droop and was popping the driveshaft out of the cup, one time it jammed as it popped and broke the pin? Just thinking maybe it could be reaching the edge and jamming for a split second without actually popping out? Maybe having a geared diff also makes it worse as there's less "give" in the diff end, what state are the outdrives in on the cars that have failed?