urgent help please!!
 

hi,
i have a hyper 7, i dont know much about rc cars and really need some help, the car started perfectly the two times ive used it, but now it wont start at ill, ive deflooded the engine, primed it, check glow plug ect and it just wont start, i've used a hair dryer to heat it and that doesnt work! any advice would be nice!!
james

help
 

hi mate best thing is to start from scratch, check glow plug is still glowing,are you using a starter box?if so make sure its fully charged and lined up correctly (take out the engine and line up through chassis) and if its still not starting even when warmed i would go onlineput the engine make into google and reset all needles to factory settings at least then your starting from scratch,take of the fuel line from the top of pipe and blow the fuel into carb it should start now,

1st thing-Charge up glow starter, starter box batts-if you have them.. Make sure its all funnly charged. Put the piston at Bottom dead centre/make sure the flywheel moves. Maybe try new glowplug and see if that helps.. make sure fuel is getting into the carb and your idle screw is in a bit more. Heat the engine case up then try again.. in short bursts..Was it running ok when it did start. I.E. Solid idle ect? as it could be too rich, too lean, idle not gap not large enough.. soo many variables..:confused:

hi, thanks for the advice, it was running fine, then the next time i started it, when i applied about half throttle it cut out. I left it to warm up and it still did this, i then thought id read up about the engine ect, i tried to start it again today and it wouldnt start, ive check glow plug charge ect. Do you think resetting to factory setting will get it running?
cheers for your help guys
james

yea I would put the needles back to factory setting and maybe lean it out from there quarter of a turn.. And fully charge glow igniter batts and stuff. So its all ready and try again tomorrow..
It's either a bad tune-When it cut at half throttle did it struggle to gain speed.. as it could be too rich.. or too lean.. but putting it back to factory setting will solve the tune side of things.. another possibility is glow plug it shot-How much use has it had? and when you do it try a few times then stop.. as flooding the engine makes it worse. And before you start it-Factory settings on needles maybe slightly lean them out so its not sobbing rich then-put your finger over the exhaust tip and pull a few tugs on the starter cord-Or starter box until you see the fuel enter the carb then stop.. then heat it up a bit-Hair-dryer heat gun not a soldering iron!-on the Casing not the head.. then glow igniter then try again.. Patience!

Let me know how you get on!:thumbsup:

really appreciate your help mate, ill try tomorrow, as its currently snowing like mad!!

No problem buddy-thats what forums are for.. I have learnt loads from here and other's... So I try and help when I can too..;)

Hi,was it new,used,been run in,needs running in,are you running it in?

brushless
 

put a brushless system in it. allya nitro problems solved. and more power:p

haha yea but Im sorry leccy just doesn't have that buzz that nitro does. I ran a SC10 in a 1/10th leccy class as my local clanfield.. and after the 1st heat-Granted the track inst suited to 1/10th even with it shortened. I was a bit lil.. hmm I feel not masses of fun in this. Granted alot was to do with about 3 cars all with diff motors my sc10 a few 2wd buggies ect.. so it wasn't exactly close racing as such.. Yes it was a laugh but, just doesn't have that smell the noise the more realistic feeling to it.. Dont get me wrong I love leccy but for racing I prefer nitro.... Coming from the guy with a Xray 809 spec nitro and a RC8-Rc-monster leccy conversion kit and a B44 haha but the B44 is for a small local club-Titchfield to do on the odd Sunday if no nitro racing and sometimes PDA.. and the rc8 is mainly for summer as there is hopefully going to be a Wed night leccy series.. and for some 1/8th fun.. but yea once you get the nack of nitro its alot more fun racing In my view..:)

I know that electric does not smell or have the engine noise but if you have got a set of similar cars that are racing together then it does not matter how they are powered as the race is on!. Really you need to be in a race with other short course trucks to really get a feel for it. It is interesting to see the results from the nitromania x event that is on at the moment as the overall times for 1/8th Rally X electric are faster than their nitro equivalents.

I know, thats why I said.. having different cars ect doesn't help..I know once I start racing my leccy I will enjoy it.. but (For me) nitro will have that edge over leccy..Yea, I generally think that 1/8th leccys will be slightly faster on most tracks.. probably more so technical ones..

it has ben run in, currently running on 16% nitro,havent had chance to try yet due to this bloody snow and a level revision :yawn:

Ahh that will be one of your problems as you are using 16% fuel in a 21 size engine which really should run on 25%. 16% is normally used for smaller engines.

ahh right, the guy i purchased it off said he was using this as the engine will run cooler, im not overly bothered about the speed so what % would you advice using?
cheers
james

Yea Grant is right its normally for smaller engines.. Um I would say 20-25% Will see what grant recommend's. I race and use 30% but used to run 25% when I bashed ect.. before I raced.. see what grant says!

A by-product of the burnt fuel is water, so the higher the %age, the more water. So an engine running on 16% will not run cooler, and will not be as quick.

For your engine it is recommended to use 25%. I would choose Byron due to its lubricant properties, Optifuel is popular but it doesn't lubricate half as well, you will likely need after-run oil if you choose Optifuel to stop it rusting internally which I have heard of.

Personally I would choose 30%. I am relatively new to Nitro and was recommended 30% due to its performance, cooling, ease to tune and easy running. Life is not shortened (as long as tuned in properly). I have found keeping my engine running well easy.

If you revert back to factory settings for low end, high end and idle speed - start the engine on this and go from there. Use youtube to see and hear how an engine should be tuned and should sound - there is a particular rasp you need to hear. Too rich or too lean is bad for the engine, some people think just lean is bad, but rich is also damaging.

Have fun!

My view-If your not racing would not use %30-As the tuning window on 30% is alot smaller/finer.. If you get the tune wrong on 30% you could damadge the engine badly.. 20+25% are slightly easier if the tune is slightly off the engine is fine.. So if you do go 30% be very carefully.. as its a pickier in the tuning window so to say..

+1 Byron

ill go with what ever is easiest then, ill get some 25% and attempt to retune it :) thanks for your help ill let you know how i get along

I noticed from another thread the car is second hand so why are you running it in. Do you know how old the fuel is. It deteriates with age

Check the engine for pinch. If the engine is a cheapish one, or the one that came with it as an RTR, from new you should be able to just turn the flywheel beyond the pinch - with effort. More expensie/competition engines will tighten up and lock, won't be able to from new.

But if you can turn it past pinch relatively easy, then it doesn't need to be run in. If its an expensive/competition engine and you can turn it past pinch with some effort, it doesn't need to be run in.... it'll have done a fair few tanks already.

Incidentally, if it is tight, after running it make sure the flywheel is turned so it can rock - makes it easier to start next time, and its easier to do this before the engine cools otherwise you may need to do it with a screwdriver.

if its run in and has just stopped running it will be the glow plug,charge up the glow start,CHANGE the glow plug and it should be ok,one thing i would say is when ever the engine has been run,as soon as you can make sure the piston is at the bottom of the piston sleave,if you take the the exhaust off the back of the engine,turn the fly wheel so you see the piston move down to the botton through the hole,turn the fly wheel so you know what it feels like at the top and bottom,then when you have the exhaust back on and its in the car you know what it feels like,this will make the engine last a lot longer as the sleave cools before the piston,if you leave it,the sleave will get stretched due to the piston still being hot and larger than when its cool,

The higher thee nitro content the cooler your engine will run.

If you have not got any pinch then send it to me and I'll re-pinch it for you.

Set it back to factory settings and then run it on the 25% as been advised.

It sounds like you are too rich and its putting the glow out on the glow plug.

Start tuning you top end needle clockwise (leaning) 1/8 at a time until you've got a good crisp plume of smoke coming out of it until you have hit full throttle. if you have turned it in too much you'll have fuel starvation and your engine will cough and not get full throttle. Richen the top needle up a 1/4 turn.

You then will need to set the bottom end needle up. You need to keep an eye on the tick over because as you lean the bottom needle (clockwise 1/16th at a time) the tick over will start to race. So keep turning the tick over down.

Running an engine in

Tim

Tim im sure its the other way,16% would make the engine cooler as there is more oil to nitro ratio,it would be like running the engine rich.......

Oil doesn't necessarily make the engine run cooler...

Nitromethanol is added to the fuel to make the engine run cooler - so it can be leaned out further - thus higher performance.

cheers for all your help guys, im going to give it a go when the weather clears up a bit, as there is so much snow about now
cheers
james

No, it ain't the oil that cools your engine. I've been building and tuning engines for too many years now.

The nitro content will make an engine run cooler the higher you go on the nitro

:blush::woot::p

errr,:confused: im really confused now higher nitro content=cooler. or lower nitro content=cooler ? which one should i be using? :thumbsup:

my bad m8:blush: higher %

Not read my earlier post then? The by-product of the nitro is water. So more nitro, more water, more cooling.

i did read your post mate, just someone else then said lower was cooler. I reset the needles back to factory settings, fully charged and changed the glow plug ect, but it still wouldnt start :( :cry:
im really stuck now.....

its working now :) thanks for your help guys!

Yeah, they tend to need a little persuasion. Also, 'factory settings' are usually so rich that they will be a pain to start. Sometimes, return to factory, then lean an 1/8th on both needles.


Electric is better though...

Fuel
 

I remember many years ago I bought a small diesel aero engine.
It wouldn't start. i tried for days, weeks, out in the garage long into the night. Wouldn't start. In the end my dad said "you'e wasting you're time here. Buy some different fuel".
I did, and it was running fine in 5 minutes.

There is a lot to be said for even shaking it up before using it. I always have, afterall its going to get shaken like mad in the car.

Cheeky :woot: :woot: :woot:

You didn't think I saw id did ya :woot: :woot: :woot: :p