My new b44!
 

Hello! This is my new secondhand b44! He said i would get a few nimh saddle packs but i didn't get them :( It came without electronics and my vxl esc is too big so im gonna buy a new one (maybe 60a ezrun).

I think its really hard to install servo and motor. Ive tried 10t bl carson motor, vxl esc and a nicad 1800 mah battery that i made into a saddle pack. Pretty slow and it started to snow but it feels good! Enough text watch my pics. They are pretty bad because its dark and i used a webcam!

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I think you'll find that there's plenty of room in there for most electronics. How are you laying yours out? This is how I do mine, I think it's a pretty common way of doing it.

Note that you can use the stock aerial mount in the corner - the plastic is soft enough that threading in the 4-40 screw is no prob. Also, make sure that you can still see the programming lights on your esc if poss. I also like to put the switch under the "cheeks" of the body, since you can reach in and switch the car on or off easily w/o removing the body.

Cheers and good luck w/ the new ride!
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4Ul5lElT5j8/Sv...0/P1000751.JPG

Why is there a 50p on the car?? :eh?:

Emergency funds to buy a victory Coke!:woot:

Nah, it's to bring the car up to 1588g...

Cheers,
Ty

How heavy is the coin. Like 5g'? :woot:

Nah, its a pound fifty!!:thumbsup: Reminds me of the olden day when we used to weight up cars with coins.

Each weighs half a pound of course...

actually, it seems 1p and 2p coins are the best value: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coins_o...Specifications

Cheers,
Ty

THank you! I sanded a little bit of the plastic on the esc so now i doesn't hit the spur gear! Now my layout is exactly like yours! But my switch is build into the esc so i have to remove the body to turn it on and off.

The car has proline wheels and schumacher mini pins, but the wheels are wobbling (i think its called wobbling) so the car is shaking a bit. Can i solve this problem? I dont have a wheel balancer...

And where can i get some onroad tires/wheels for the b44? Ive tried 1/10 TC wheels but the rim is to small so its hitting the a arms.

Good to hear you've got your electrics all sorted out. Nice!:thumbsup:

Just logically look at all the various parts to figure out where the wobbling is coming from. One thing to double-check is to make sure that the ballstuds for the upper links are nice and snug on the decks. Use blue locktite! If they are loose, you're soon to break your deck, and the wheels will move all over the place. (learned the hard way!)

I wouldn't worry about balancing wheels too much - jsut make sure that when you mount the wheels the foams aren't bunched up or anything and you should be generally okay. Your mileage may vary, though..

For running on the street, you could look into a set of Dirt Hawgs, but in all honesty just run your minipins down and run them for bashing on pavement, since you've already got them.

Cheers,
Ty

B44
 

Okay. THanks alot! But i cant remove/install my pinion gear without removing the blue battery post (i think its called) And i cant remove the post without removing the undertray! Is my pinion gear way too "long"

Its also impossible to adjust the servo screws! I have to remove the upper deck and its still hard! How do you tighten the servo screws?

I'm sure you're pinion gear, etc is fine - the B44 has plenty of space around there for various designs of pinions.

Do you have the original tool set? The original tools include a long, "ball-ended" allen key that is useful for getting to the motor mount screws. Also, you'd do well to invest in a good set of imperial hex drivers. Look on ebay or put a want ad on here - you never know. But they're pretty much invaluable for doing any work on the car.

Also, the easiest way to adjust the screws that hold the servo to the blue blocks is to remove the blocks from the bottom. Yes, it means removing the under tray, but hey - that's only three screws.

Be sure to download the manual for the car, too - so you know that you're putting everything back together correctly. http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/b44_manual.pdf

Good luck and you'll be enjoying the car soon!:thumbsup:

Cheers,
Ty

hmm, perhaps this thread should be moved to the Associated section? How is that done?

I've only got the plastic keys. I've got some nice hex drivers, but its mm not inches! My friend has hex drivers for a b4 so maybe i can buy them cheap! But thanks for the tips!

I dont know how to move the thread!

The B4 tools are what you need. Do try to track down that special long allen key, though, as it really speeds up motor work with the B44.

Cheers,
Ty

Thats true. First i used mm screws for the motor, but the hex driver were too small sp i used phillips screws for the motor instead. I hope this problem will get sorted soon!

Yeah, remember that those two motor screws are the only metric (M3) screws on the whole car....

...
 

Hmm whats that? :eh?:

There's basically two major systems of measurement, metric and "imperial". Somewhat ironically, the "Emipire" has long abandoned the "imperial" system - it's pretty much only used in the USA now.

The Associated cars like the B44 are American designs, and have always used "imperial" hardware. Pretty much every other manufacturer uses metric hardware. (Please do correct me if I'm wrong on that one. Losi, perhaps?:eh?:)

Many of the screws on your B44 have "4-40" thread, which is imperial. (4-40 means "number 4" bar stock, 40 threads per inch)

The motor screws are "M3" thread, which is metric. (M3 means "medium thread", 3mm diameter)

They may look similar, but are NOT compatible.

Cheers,
Ty

I used 2 screws from my traxxas stampede for the motor. The fit nicely into the motor. Is that a problem??

I will need these drivers right?

.050"
.63" (1/16)
.078" (5/64)
.093" (3/32)

Exactly.:thumbsup:

I'm sure the screws you used on the motor are M3 thread - else they wouldn't have worked. M3 screws are very common on RC cars, and all "540 size" motors are mounted with them.

Cheers,
Ty

Okay! Thanks alot! And i got the saddlepack today! 4500 mah nimh. Im gonna get 2 small lipos and a parallel harness so i can use it as a saddlepack :)

cool. you'll find that there are "hard-cased" saddle packs out there that will fit right into the B44 without any hassle. However, you really should get the "lipo cradle" part to hold them in place. It's a pretty standard part that shows up on oople for sale pretty often (as some people are moving to heavier metal versions of the original part). Otherwise, you should be able to order it new pretty easily.

Yea i've seen the lipo saddle packs but its gonna be alot cheaper with 2 single packs in parrallel.

how did you get a stick pack init or did you use saddel packs as you cannot use diffrent batterys at all :eh?::eh?:

Im using nimh saddlepacks :)

I think you'll be best off in the long run just getting the right batteries for the car. You could look into "soft pack" lipo saddle packs which can be a bit cheaper - especially if you pick them up used. You may have problems trying to race with them though, as they are not allowed in many organisations' rules.

Don't forget you need a special charger for lipos though. That's very important! (sorry for being a bit obvious if you already knew this, but it's too important to not mention!):bored:

Nevertheless, hope you're enjoying the car so far! Once you get those tools, you'll be much happier with it, I'm sure as maintenance will be a million times easier.

Cheers,
Ty

Hello. Ive got a set of hex wrenches now. I have a nice lipo charger already. I can use lipo for driving on the street and nimh for racing. The speed is very nice with the nimh battery!

But the wheels wobbles alot! WHen i hold the car in my hands and give it full speed the car is shaking alot and it doest sound very good. Could it be other things than wheels?

I can get these wheels in denmark: http://www.morfars.dk/rc/wheelset-bu...ml?language=en

Do you know if they are any good?

I have never used these wheels, but the std assosiated wheels are good!!
Maybe check the tyres are on the wheels straight or could you post a vid of what it's doing?

Is the suspension wobbly at all? Check those upper ball studs in the chassis plates - if they are loose, the upper link will move around quite a bit and amplify the problems you're describing. Loose ball studs will also break your upper decks pretty soon, so it's worth double-checking.:D

It's possible that the foams are bunched up or something like that inside your wheels, or that the wheels just aren't round anymore. Hmm. Try turning them slowly by hand and see if they are round or not by watching gap between the inner rim and a suspension link or something. If they are wonky - you should be able to spot that pretty easily.

Unfortunately, I don't think those wheels will help you, as the fronts for sale are 12mm hex drive - and the b44 uses a 3/8 inch (about 9.5mm) hex.

B44 front axles are compatible with front wheels designed for Losi and some Tamiya 4wd cars (those for the Durga, Baldre, and 5..x cars - possibly others?).

"Real" Associated B44 front wheels, however are not compatible with the cars I'd mentioned above since the B44 hex is a bit "thicker" than the ones on the other cars. Thus, the B44 wheels have a slightly "deeper" recess for the hex to fit into.

Keep looking...

Cheers,
Ty

I dont have the std wheels, but proline rims and schumacher mini pins. But cant i just use a 12mm hex instead of the 9.5mm? I bought some glue and i glued the wheels (they were glued badly). I also balanced the wheels with a homemade balancer. Now they dont vibrate as much as before.

I tightened the ball studs and used a bit of loctite too.

But the car is still a bit noisy.

Thank you!