db-01 vs 501x/511
 

I've had a 501x in the past and loved it, dont know why I sold it, but anyway its gone.

I bought recently a 2nd hand db-01, basically to use as a spare parts car for a possible future purchase of a db-01r.

At the moment, my db-01 has got nothing on my previous 501x in terms of handling and driving!

I'm thinking of getting a 511 instead of a db-01r. The db-01r still needs attention in the drive train before it can be reliably used. The db-01r does have a better sealed transmission, but its still not 100% as grit can still get in between the gearbox and outdrives.

So the pro drivers from yokomo drive their buget car bmax, so why dont tamiya team drivers use the db-01?

is there anyone else who has owned db-01's, 501x's or 511's make some sort of comparison?

I race a DB-01 which i have hopped up beyond a DB-01R specification:woot:

Yes the DB-01R in my opinon still needs some attention / hop ups but would be a very good racing buggy as long as you carry out maintenance on the diffs etc but you would have to carry out these tasks on any racing buggy you purchased i reckon.

As for the fact of why don`t Tamiya drivers use a DB-01 (standard) because its s**t as standard ;)

I would definately get a DB-01R and do the few upgrades need and then you will have one tough,reliable awesome buggy, some might disagree but each too there own.

Andy:thumbsup:

Well, I've owned a hopped-up DB01, and driven a couple of TRFs. I've also run the "budget" B-MAX4.

My opinion is that if you have the funds - get the TRF out of the two Tamiyas. You'll have no regrets.

The TRF cars always felt that little bit more "precise" than the DB01.

Two obvious drawbacks with the DB01 is the shock towers (which are unsuitably sized for TRF shocks - OK there is a "fix" by using an aftermarket tower but it would be better if the towers were right out of the box.), and the battery placement (no fix for that). Compared to the TRF, the DB01 battery is all along one side and sits a lot further away from the centre.

The benefit of the TRF rear-saddle design it that there are very even corner weights on both rear tyres which gives the car more confident traction.

The TRF is also more adjustable and maybe a bit more robust too.

(PS I much preferred the B-MAX4 - but parts support was a big letdown)

parts support for the yokomo is a let down, and I have to get my parts from japan. The bmax, which I currently have is fantastic, however im having an itch for another tamiya, as I grew up with tamiya cars.

come to think of it, I think the trf511 is the tamiya car to have. The db01r, as good as it is, will/may one day not be good enough to go head to head with the best of the 4 wheelers!

You don`t have to use an after market tower, a simple o-ring mod in the rear shock is sufficent.

I think tho you can`t really compare a DB-01 to a trf501/511, you should be comparing the DB-01R

Like i said tho each too there own, and it looks like you`ve made your mind up any road.

Good luck

Andy

The problem is not extension - it's compression. The shocks will bottom out before the chassis reaches the ground.

Sorry but i didn`t have this issue:p

I think the two TRF models win hands-down in terms of specification and handling. However the DB01-R does have it's place as a good option for those people on a budget. After all, Tamiya is well known for it's quality.


Julius.

The db01 will have less corner speed than the 501x and the 501x has less corner speed than the 511 and that is the only big difference between all those, from a serious racing point of view the 511 is the one to have but they are all capable cars at any level, but you will need to spend a bit extra on better shocks etc..for the db01, so why not just buy a 511 and you won't have to buy anything extra, apart from a bodyshell:lol:.

Could you explain this more please? I'm genuinely interested. Thanks:thumbsup:

Well it's a cheaper model and with tamiya's the only real difference is the corner speed between an expensive model and an entry level model not sure why....maybe chassis layout? more flex in the plastic parts? I've raced both the 501x and the 511 and the 511 does have more corner speed than the 501x and I know people who started with a durga and then went to the 501x and agreed with this, so I'am not really sure why it is but try it yourself if you are quite expierenced and you will find the same;)

If it's layout then fair enough, guess I was hoping for a more technical explanation!:woot:

i tought it had something to do with caster degrees on the front hubs.
For the 501x/511 u have the 10&12 degree front hubs, dont know how many degrees the db01 have!

Think wind direction my be a factor tho :woot:

I think it also has 10 degrees. You can also use the alu caster blocks on DB01.

I run a fully hopped up 501WE and a Fully hopped up DB01 with the atomic towers, 501 diffs, full carbon plastics, ect so its as near to the 501 as you can get and so far its cost me more than the 501 which doesn't seem to make much sense, BUT even tho theyre set up very similar with identical electrics they drive differently which is good. On a very slippy surface the DB01 was more neutral and forgiving but the 501 is much more precise. Its great to turn up to a meeting and throw both cars down and see which one has the best starting setup then work from there.

I wouldn't recomend spending as much as I have on a DB-01 but the end result is very good. I'm gonna wait for the 511 Worlds as the normal 511 seems a bit low rent for the money compared to the 501WE even tho its probably a better car.

Very true ! cost me a small fortune but well happy with the results :thumbsup:

Andy

yea I have seen andys Durga it goes fairly well

he did have a good run at bury once or twice but it was wet and he had a very soft set-up which of course worked well

in all think it gave him un-justified high hopes!!!!!

See you indoors Sunday and we will see what happens then !!!!

I dont think there will be a 'worlds 511', as tamiya pulled out of the worlds, along with every other manufacturer at the south africa worlds. Besides, the 511 has all the good bits on it anyway.

Un-justified high hopes ..... my left bollock

we will see !

The DB01 just like the DF03 I used to have is a club racer.
Not a car I would take seriously if I got beat in other words.
Having a sealed driveline makes it eager to run in loose dirt.



The 501x and 511 are made for bigger races, trophy and money races even.
Open diffs means high bite clay is what these cars were made for.

The 511 will have slightly better manners and possibly corner speed than both the 501 and DB01, as the 511 use the newer wishbones.

As for the DB01 v TRF argument, it is all subjective. In the UK, I couldn't justify the cost of a TRF car, but I can buy the DB01 and upgrade it over time. For most people, the only reason that the TRF car is faster than the DB01, is all in your heads, really, it is. On any track, I can't fully exploit the handling of the DB01 so surely I won't, on the TRF cars, so it is really a daft argument this.

It is like asking, whats better, Ford Focus 1.6 or a ST.... just no contest.

Another good analogy is a Ford F150(durga) compared to a Ford F350(501/511). Better body, better parts quality, and the ability to run brushless straight from the box, more powerful motors.

And also just like DCM said, comparing a ford mustang(durga) to a ford GT(501/511)sports car.

erm, out of the box, you can run brushless in either, just the TRF cars, you can run much hotter, but at that price, you should expect so too!

I run a Db01 and its great, i almost beat Andy on the last outdoor run and came 2nd (ok so Woodys dad messed with the results :-)) The only hop ups i run is the slipper (single) front UJ's and TRF aerated dampers which are designed to fit the DB01 with no modifications. I broke my rear lower arm taking a silly jump wrong and the front on a bad flip so out of buying replacements i now have the carbon A&B parts tree and carbon front lower arms.

I run it with yeah racing 20c lipos and the Ezrun 5.5 brushless and its great, and didn't cost the earth and parts and spares a cheap.

I bought the Associated spring set and use 30w oil in the rear and 40 in the front.

The rear diff is now a little grindy as it loosened a little too much and i think the odd ball might be a little flat but if you build them properly and bed them in well they work fine, DONT use super glue to glue the plates on use as stated rubber cement. I use Unibond Extreme you can get from B&Q. It doesnt breakdown with the grease and doesn't crack and become loose under pressure like super glue does