Binding issues
 

Does anyone's rear diff make a weird clicking noise when you spin the wheels?

My esc keeps jumping up to 160-170 after 10 minutes on the track. I have dropped pinions and raised pinions and it is still the same result...hot esc, cool motor. I rebuilt the read diff and I still have the noise.

I think something back there is binding and causing the esc to overheat. I cant figure out what it is.

Any suggestions??

why are you running for 10mins??? any esc will heat up to that level after 10mins of running.

How many minutes would you say it is safe to run then? 10 minutes sounds normal to me.

Do the diffs feel like they are binding? Also,when I first built mine I put a bit too much thread lock on the screws when putting the drive-shafts together. This made them sticky and clicky. Remove the diffs and the drive-shafts and check that they are free moving!:thumbsup:

mine is a free as owt, just has a noise which is understandable dut to alloy chassis transmitting down it

They do feel like they are binding, when I twist it will spin, click then spin freely, then slow down and click again. There is no noise coming from the front.

The rear wheels dont spin together when it is lifted off the ground either. If I life the suspension arm they will though. I cant raise the droop in that arw as I only received one droop screw:(

This is what happens when I spin the wheels.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FWsfH4zT3M

This is what happens when I spin the wheels using the drive shaft....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqmdHyfHBfE

That noise cant be normal :confused::confused:

ur going to has to strip the rear diff/drive shafts and check em

Thats not normal; strip and check your diff!

It is if something broken sadly, just a case of find out what has gone wrong and replace the part.

Let us know what is was though.

Col.

Take off the camber links and check the wheel bearings spin free;)

durango clicking
 

Ashleys durango was clicking on front wheels. I found it was when you tighten wheels up to much.:thumbsup:

Does it do it when its running? Have you tried it with the wishbones level? It could just be the driveshafts locating it the drive cups thats doing that when the suspension is at full travel.

Yes it does it when the wishbones are level. Im on my way home so I will check out the bearings and wheel nuts along with the whole diff if needed.

I'm pretty sure this it what is causing my esc to get so hot. In tried 17t-21t pinions and my esc kept coming off at 160-170, motor 120ish.

seems to be on the crown wmeel as it seems to click when the diff ids turning the spur

The rear drive shaft is not connected to the spur. It worked itself loose before the race yesterday:(. Tried to fix it and of course the set screw stripped. So I couldn't race:mad:

The bearings spin freely and it still clicks with the wheel nuts off. Time to break everything down

Open the diff. im guessing that one of the large diff gear (part 310001) is split in half. I heard of one guy here that got his split in 3.

Took the diff apart and everything looked fine???? So I started to take the gear(310001) off of the outdrive and it snapped right in half :cry::cry:

It flew up and hit me in the lip. Hit me so hard it drew blood. Not sure which way to go now :confused:

I guess this happen because the gear is such a tight fit. next time i open my diffs, im going to sand down the hole in the gear so just slide fine.

Thats a good idea, I may do that myself.

Ahh, Could it be that the gear wasn't on/seated level then? Probably that.

Not sure....it looked like it was pretty level.

Maybe Adam will see the video and know what it is???

In just finished building the diffs again and I'm having the same issue. Here is a video. I'm not using any brake or drag brake to stop the wheels

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKbtbqYjTPY

Would the amount of grease between the diff pinion and diff cause this?

Try another video for us but this time wind all your droop screws down so your shafts are level.

Driving it on the street is does not come to a complete stop like that. That would be equivelent to adding droop while its on a stand right?

That still does not explain the heat problems I am having. 2-3 minutes esc was 150 motor was 120ish!

Anyone have some suggestions?

did you check the wheel bearings after?

yep. bearings are fine.

I dont know what to do about the heat:confused:

Did you fit the little ali crush tubes between the bearings in the hubs?

G

yep, put them in the front and rear

Trap are you getting excessive heat while just plodding around the house or a short track?

My esc gets up to 150 after 3 minutes of driving on the street

I'm no Rango expert but try the same test as your vid with the wheels removed see if its binding then, if it is remove the driv shafts and try again. if you get the same effect remove the front diff and vice versa until you find where the binding is coming from.

Its would be a process of elimination I would have thought.

Hope you find it!

Mike

Are you getting full throttle for a few seconds?

The binding is from the droop thats normal. Don't worry about that and the clicking is your pinion gear on your spur its too loose.

My durango took a couple of meetings to free up and make sure you dont tighten the front wheels too much and crush the crunch spacer a bit and make the bearings bind, they are only soft.

Might also be worth gearing down a bit - i ran 10/1 with a 5.5 in a pred x11 and am now at nearly 11/1 with the same motor in the durango at the same temps.

10/1, 11/1??? Are you talking about 10 and 11t pinions?

i think he might mean gear ratio

Yea gear ratios 10 to 1 in the pred and about 11 to 1 in the durango

trap, try one thing. Dont know well how to explain but here it goes.
You have 2 bearings next to the pinion, right? Try to give the most distance between then by unscrewing the 310027 part a little push it far from the pinion and screw it again.
Say if it worked.

I have already tried to push the bearings as far apart as possible. It didnt do anything to stop the binding.

I took everything apart piece by piece and found that the shims in the front diff and spur (side connecting front drive shaft) needed to be removed. Those are the only things that made a difference. It is a little smoother but not much. My temps are still high but it takes a little longer to reach 5-6 led's