Ford Focus clicking noise in steering wheel column + idle revs
 

Im hoping someone can help me here....

When i turn left or right at any speed there is a clicking noise coming from the steering wheel, it did stop for a bit but is now just persistent. Any ideas from cars folk?

Also another problem. When i put the air con on, or light, or heater the revs drop below idle and it almost stalls, it's done it for as long as ive driven it and it's really annoying. When you have the lights on they dim and then come back and the heater only blows properly when you have the revs above idle.

Please only post if you have any recommendations.

Many Thanks

For the revs dropping, it would be either a dieing battery or alternator. Kwik fit tend to do free battery and alternator tests.

As for the clicking, that'll be something different. Mark Christopher would be the best to ask on that one I reckon. ;)

Cool, i was thinking alternator too but didn't fancy the bill :lol: If it's free tests ill go see them, cheers dude.

at a guess, I would say, more a weak battery than an alternator, unless you got a seak turnover in the morning. You can do a quick test with a multimeter, set to DCV across the battery terminal, not to sure on the ford, but between 13.5 and 14.5 is a good reading, above or below that isn't good.

Clicking noise is for Mr Christopher.

It's never failed to start quickly and first time though so i didn't think that, but i have a meter i can test it with. I take it i need to do it running to get that kind of voltage, dont wanna blow my meter. :p

yes, running. It could be your alternator, if it is struggling under load, but you can also get a load test done on the 12V too. The revs should drop when you put a heavy electrical drain (lights etc) or mechanical drain (air con) but the ecu should pick up the drop in revs and compensate........

does it click when the steering wheel is turning, or when turning a constant corner (ie steering wheel not moving, but not centred)?
Also do the indicators self cancel?

Agreed, on our old Focus the revs would drop for an instant, then pick up as the car increased them to cope.

G

It only clicks when turning the wheel, not during a corner.
Yep, everything else works properly.

as col

does the noise occur when stationary and turning the wheel, if it sounds like its behind/in the steering wheel, could well be the clock spring (wheel off and new one) clock spring is actually the air bag connector that lets the wheel turn and keep the connector, if its a clicking noise pulling out of a junction etc could be one of your cv joints

as for low idle could be numerous things

air leak on engine (can you hear any sucking with engine running and bonnet open?
idle valve sticking (though will normally idle undershoot and cut out)
pcm calibration ( early focus had a re cal to fix this, dealer only unless you know somone in ford dealer)

as for voltage check

focus has smart charge and will go up to 15 volts, not a normal alternater and krapfit normally diag them wrong then send em to the dealer or take your money and run.

to do a volt test use the cars dash;)

ignition off, hold the trip reset button in, ignition on and wait for it to sat test, then release button and press/release to change functions one will say BAT thats your bat voltage should be around 11 with ignition on, start key without keying off and should be around 14 with headlamps and heated screen on.
there are other functions in that test, bulbs, lcd, digital rpm etc, even dtc but ignore those there for manufacture/plant.
key off will turn it back to std dash

I would expect that too, but they drop so low that you can feel it about to stall, although it never does. Ive never had a car which lights dim or blowers go from full to about nothing coming out.

ok check bottom of colum, make sure there is nothing catching it
take off the top columb cowel and unclip indicater stalk, take it off, if noise still there as my previous post, clock spring

can be changed easy, no need to disconect batt, we never do for air bag repairs, just dont spin it or the wheel when removing or fitting

id go for pcm update at first thoughts, if its ok if you control idle near 1000 rpm
if you goto dealer ask for pcm update check, and kam reset (keep alive memory) as that stores idle values, reset it and it will load base values then relearn.

long time old focus for me now but im 99% sure if you disconect the battery for 10 mins the kam will reset, you will need radio code, if you dont have that and can get radio out i can get the code for you foc, let me know so u can call me if your stuck

Thanks for that mark, ive just checked but none of the menus had BAT?

I have a 2004, 1.6 Edge.

Cheers dude, ill try that tonight if it stops raining.
Ill call the Ford garage and see if they can fit me in.

tis in there retry, but got steady on how fast you press the button

Ive gone through the menu 3 times now and cant find anything which says BAT. I wrote it all down but it makes no sense, as i would expect being a test mode. :lol:

my mistake im thinking of new focus, it will look something like this b11.0 the figures are your bat voltage, look for the b
just had a play in an old shape focus to find out

Edit

Ok, i have: 10.7 on ignition and 13.4 running.

EDIT: sorry 13.2 with screen and lights on. This is from cold.
It dipped into the 12's when i turned them on.

battery reading is lower than we would expect, how long have you had car? ever had a battery?
be wise to get batt checked out on a free test, make sure they have a good battery tester not just a volt meter

does car get good runs or local stop starts?

Umm, it was 6 months old when we bought it, never changed the battery though. I know a good garage who should be able to help me.
Normally just has stops and starts but when we were doing 20 mile runs it still did it. Im unsure when it started but it was about a year or two ago that i noticed it, but the mrs never got it fixed before the warrenty ran out as it wasn't my everyday car. Now i drive it everyday it really annoys me.

also ask em to check the earth points under each headlamp

Ok, cheers mate, really appreciate it.

They said they can do the battery no probs but not the earthing points and i would need to go to the main dealer for that.

check your bat voltage when everything inc engine is turned off. should be about 12.8-13v start up the engine with fans lights etc off... if the alternator is working the voltage should be about 14.5+v
Have you undone both bat terminals and battery earthing post and given them a clean as they could be just corroded giving you poor output. I had this prob a few years back

How do you get 14.5v on a 12v with nothing charging it?
Good call on the terminals, ive not checked them myself.

[quote=Southwell;200083]How do you get 14.5v on a 12v with nothing charging it?
the alternator is charging it if it is working correctly

I think Bodgit meant, that with the engine running and no electrical load, you should see 14.5v at the battery.

yep thats what I meant

http://www.super-smileys.com/images/smileys/513.gif

12.1 off 14.5 on.

[quote=bodgit;200084]
ok
as i said ford have a smart charge system fitted this will supply up to 16 volts to the system, and a low range of 10.6 volts.

sorry bodgit but you will not get 12.8 to 13 volts on a static battery test, unless it has surface charge, if it does then your readings are false any how.
anywhere round 11 to 12 volts is ok, this is confitmed by how our £800 hand held battery tester! they need testing under load as well as at rest

an alternator can still give out say 15 volts but zero amps, that means its duff

if you look on the ford alternators you will see a main battery feed and a plug with three wires, two are pcm control, one is battery.

any lack of voltage/amps the lamp will be illuminated, its a very clever system

it should hold steady at 14/14.5 volts under load and off load with the engine running

much more or less will flag a dtc and may put on the charge lamp


sorry to bang on but as i have said its not a conventional charge system and many do not understand its operation or complexity. been working with the system not since focus was launched, we have odd alternator failure, allways lamp on, or broken wires, again lamp on.


still think this is the older fault which is an issue with pcm calibration as its ok it owner picks up the idle., being pcm controlled the pcm claibration also alters the alternator output to prevent dimming


southwell pm me your reg and i can see if its ever had a pcm update under warranty

re pm reg, not had any warranty work done at all!!

Do they do the PCM update and KAM resets for free? Should i just phone up to book it in?

Its like Coronation street this cant wait to find out what is wrong with it. Hope you get it sorted Ian.:D

I was just gonna trade it in for a new car but we're keeping it for the time being so i can't really ignore it anymore :lol:

southwell done some digging have a look at this its an oldy and should not apply to yours. also asked out field enginer who thiks its pcm calibration, his suggestion was to check that after checking the battery

unfortunatly they will charge for the update, shame your not nearer me


No.70/1999
22 July 1999http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/img/...ment-25x19.gif[Printable HTML page]
Circulate to:Service ManagerBody Shop ManagerParts ManagerForemenReceptionistsTechnicians (c)1999 Ford Motor Company Limited. Eagle Way, Brentwood, Essex CM13 3BW, United Kingdom.
This bulletin represents technical service information only. Without exception all gratis repairs and replacements are subject to the individual warranty and policy procedures of the supervisory Ford Company. The illustrations, technical information, data and descriptive text in this issue, to the best of our knowledge, were correct at the time of publication.
Subject/Concern: Faulty charging system/amendment to FDS 2000 diagnosis procedureModel:FocusMarkets: AllSection: 414-00 (31)Summary
Should a customer express concern over the vehicle failing to start, or the charging control lamp being illuminated constantly or intermittently, or headlamps and/or instrument panel flickering/dimming (EXCEPT when excessive electrical loading is applied), the probable cause is a faulty alternator. This could be due to either ingress of salt water into the regulator, or torque relaxation of the regulator earth bolt causing ground interference.
Dealers are experiencing some difficulties diagnosing these alternator issues. To rectify this concern, this bulletin contains supplemental test steps to guide a technician in diagnosing a failed/faulty alternator.
These additional steps will be included in the relevant Service Publications at the next update.

Parts RequiredDescriptionFinis CodeQuantityAlternator Assembly (Zetec)1 070 8041Alternator Assembly (Zetec‐SE)1 090 0851Alternator Assembly (Diesel)1 079 3121Cable Tie6 061 9151Wiring LoomParts Microfiche1Labor TimeOperation DescriptionOperation No.TimeAlternator Assembly - Remove and Install-31 414 0Additional Test Procedure, All except Diesel-31 414 0Additional Test Procedure and Wiring Loom adjustment, Diesel only-31 414 0Charging System FDS 2000 Preliminary Checks-31 414 0Charging System FDS 2000 Main Electrical Check-31 414 0Repair/Claim CodingCausal Part:ACES Condition Code:Defect Code:09OASIS203100, 204000, 206000, 603300Service Instruction
See Summary
Test Procedure

1. The following inspections and checks are to be included when carrying out Diagnosis and Testing of the charging system (refer to Focus Manual, Section 4, Electrical, Subsection 414‐00).
All Diesel Variants built up to 10.03.99 inclusive
2. Detach the intercooler air guide and remove the intercooler (refer to Workshop Manual Operation Number 21 134 0).

http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/graphic.do?id=Z9912049

3. Check the 3‐pin connector wire branch for damage (especially in area just below intercooler).
1. If damaged, install a new wiring loom (see Parts Required)
http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/graphic.do?id=Z9912050

4. NOTE: Wire branch should to be positioned to avoid touch contact with intercooler.
Attach 3‐pin connector wire branch to fan shroud.
• NOTE: Wire branch is to be loosely attached to the fan shroud to allow for engine rock.
1. Attach wire branch to fan shroud with cable ties (see Parts Required) as necessary.
All Vehicles
5. Prior to commencing the Charging System Diagnostics program, check condition of the alternator 3‐pin connector and surrounding alternator regulator area. If any damage is apparent, replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and/or the wiring loom (see Parts Required).
6. Carry out the Charging system Diagnostics program. If the alternator fails with an Indictment Code, replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and re‐test the system for function. If the alternator fails without an Indictment Code, go to next step.



7. Voltage comparison test with 3‐pin connector connected.

• Run the engine at idle, switch on dipped headlights and heated rear window.
• Observe for about 20 seconds, then record the voltage output across the battery terminals (using Voltmeter).
• If the output voltage is not betweeen 12.5 - 15.5 V, and/or is unsteady (i.e. varies by ± 0.2 V) replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and re‐test the charging system.
• If the output voltage is steady and within range, switch off the headlights, heated rear window and engine, and proceed to next step.

8. Voltage comparison test with 3‐pin connector disconnected.
1. With the ignition off, disconnect the alternator 3‐pin connector and make sure the connector is held in a safe position.
1. Run the engine at idle, switch on dipped headlights and heated rear window.
1. Observe for approx. 20 seconds, that the output voltage is steady (within ± 0.2 V), then record the voltage output across the battery terminals. Switch off engine.
1. If this output voltage is the same as the voltage recorded in the previous test (within ± 0.2 V) the alternator is running on default mode and should be replaced (see Parts Required). Re‐test the charging system.
1. If the output voltage recorded is not the same, go to next step.
9. Ignition off load test.
9. http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/illu...if/caution.gifCAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable.
• NOTE: All vehicle electrical loads must be switched off and the doors closed before this test is carried out.
1. With the ignition off, reconnect 3‐pin connector.
1. Using a suitable ammeter, measure the vehicle key off current load between the battery ground cable and the battery negative terminal.
1. If the current is below 2.0 Amps, the alternator is OK.
1. If the current exceeds 2.0 Amps, carefully disconnect the alternator battery positive connection and re‐measure the vehicle key‐off load.
1. If the current reduces below 2.0 Amps, replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and re‐test the charging system

Ah, thats interesting! Would i still be covered for this despite being out of warrenty?

Hey southy, listen to the christophmeister, he knows what he's doing when it comes to fords!! lol


Mine had the 'cutting out at junctions' and 'low revs problem' and he sorted it for me.

Mine just recently (as it started getting cold) was starting die electrically when everything was on- heaters, lights, stereo, windscreen wipers, and more importantly, the windscreen de-mister- I replaced the battery, as I bought the car at 5month old, (1999plate) and it hadn't had a battery replaced.
So i changed it, and it hasn't died since.
It does dip in voltage a little but it no longer dies comlpetely.

I'd change it before it gets worse. I decided to change mine after we went away for a few days and the car actually died and came to a stop in the middle of a busy junction in the pouring rain and wouldn't re-start!...Great.

if and if you have had from new and have full dealer history you could ring customer service at ford and ask for help, but dont hold your breath

get your bat checked by a good garage (free if you can)then try update