YZ-2 with B-Max rear end.
 

Converted my YZ-2 to the B-Max2 gearbox using parts obtained from Fibrelyte. Although this set up is for low grip situations, people may find it useful over the Winter months and where tracks have variable grip levels around the circuit. Swapping from one gearbox to the other trackside, takes less than 10 mins.

Consists of:
Battery Brace 2.4mm
Rear shock tower 4mm
Shock tower spacer 3mm

Work involved:
Drilling two countersunk holes in chassis where waterfall fits. This was done using old B-Max2 chassis as a template.

Fitting a 2mm spacer between waterfall and chassis, this could also be done using washers. Some people may wish to go 3mm if your lipos are a little fatter.

Fitting a 2mm spacer between rear camber support and gearbox lug.

The B-Max2 forward/rear hinge pin support fits straight on. I opted to use the one from the YZ-2. Which will need a small amount of filing, to get the full motor travel on motor plate.

A small area needs to be removed from the plastic chassis sideframes, for battery placement.

The wing mounts need 2mm removed to correct the angle of wing. If using B-Max2 plastic shock tower, this process doesn't require doing.

On the bottom corners of the carbon shock tower, a small angle will need to be filed to clear gearbox casing. This is something Fibrelyte couldn't do themselves, but is an easy operation with just a few small strokes of a file.

You could opt for the plastic shock tower from the B-Max2, but the carbon tower gives an extra shock mounting hole. Holes 1, 2 & 3 are the same as the YZ-2 and holes 3 & 4 are the same as the two inner holes on the B-Max2.

Very nice. did you design the tower, or did fibrelyte?

I was about to draw up a battery plate to fit, but looks easier to just order this one. How much was the kit?

It was about £26 plus postage for all the parts.

I did it just before Yokomo came up with theirs at euro's, hence I wanted the parts more similar looking to YZ-2 parts. The tower also has the advantage of the extra shock holes, so you can go more inboard like the YZ-2.

I ran mine at the euros but I could really do with getting that battery bar as mine as just extended from the standard one.

We also ran 1mm under waterfall and 2mm under gearbox lug.

If I was to contact fbrelyte to get that bar made, what do I ask for specifically?

So... is there much difference (geometry wise) between a Bmax and a modified YZ with a Bmax gearbox?

Seems a faff if not - just run the Bmax?

Great post and conversion by the way - looks quality :)

Allan and anyone else interested.

I'm sure Fibrelyte will sell the parts separately, if you contact them and ask for Stephen he will be able to help. Just mention YZ-2 parts for Trevor and he'll know what they are.

The YZ-2 with the B-Max rear end moves the motor and battery back around 25mm, giving more rear end grip but still more steering than the B-Max2. If you have a B-Max2 and are happy with it, then please stick with it as it will still work well in all conditions.

I know the set up worked really well for the guys at the euro's, on a low grip clay track. But this was done for some of the lesser talented YZ-2 owners. Who found the YZ to be too much on certain tracks, with differing surfaces and grip levels not been consistent around the full lap. Should also work well over the Winter months when grip is down.

Hope this helps

Had noticed the team were running 1mm under the waterfall, but with battery brace fitted above ally hinge. Was their any particular reason for this.

Spot on with that. I'm thinking super slippy gym floor in winter, York and Batley indoors for example, this will be ideal for that.

After my last regional and the Invernational I'm going to build this and give it a try.

None that was mentioned. I just extended my YZ2 bar but i definitely prefer to run the bar you are running, much neater. :thumbsup:

Hi guys, what bmax 2 parts with numbers are required please?

You would need a complete B-Max2 gearbox, which could work out expensive buying the parts separately. The best way is probably to pick up a cheap B-Max2 or look on ebay/forums for anyone selling just the gearbox.

I think this image shows most the part numbers needed, unless anyone can think of any other parts. Some of the parts are the same as YZ-2, but it would be better to be able to swap from one gearbox to other easily.

Just to enhance your message a bit :

Go for the lightweight shafts (B2-303IG or some made by Tamiya fit as well). Just to keep the COG down. Also, just go for the B-Max2 tower, easier to mount. COG wise, you also want the lightweight motor plate (B2-304LW). But I can image that on dirt, that may not be an option. Using something like carbon would be better.

Here is mine :)

That's a very nice piece for the stock battery brace.
Did you make it yourself? Alloy or plastic? How much?

Hi!

Thank you :)
I made it my self. It is made from aluminium.
I can make few more if someone want´s one.
Price would be 17£ including shipping to EU.

Got all my parts and bits ready to put the Y-Max together, just need to bite the bullet and drill the chassis. What size drill
Bits and countersink did everyone use?

Cheers
Chris

just designed a brace

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...pswiiugbgf.jpg

You know the battery braces are available to purchase?

Contact bezerk rc on Facebook

Here is a pic on mine
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/...2_184405_1.jpg

That bezerk rc one is a direct copy of the one on Lee's Euros car, as are the carbon knuckles. I suspect someone in Australia borrowed originals sent to Josh Pain, which have been copied, possibly as Yokomo have no plans to make them.
I really fancy that brace, but put off by postage, duty and wait from Australia.
Fastinfastout what was cost to you?

Factory RC also offer the complete conversion set too - called Y-Max, available through any of the X-Factory UK dealers and on our website now to look at.....

Postage from Bezerk is ok, but the wait is annoying. I ordered some brass for my T5M for the season's last race on dirt. That race was two weeks ago, and I am still waiting for parts that I'll probably not use for quite some time...(Edit: arrived today) Maybe they'll show up in time for my next dirt race in June/July next year?! :woot:

Cheapest is to draw one up, get yourself a piece of carbon and go to your local CNC guy. It's not that expensive.I can draw one up and share the drawing here, but I guess people will take disadvantage of it and start selling it. :thumbdown:

Luckily I have some spare carbon around, easy to do.

Thought you would be first in line to sell your version...


Personally I want a factory/Yokomo looking part, not a home made or off brand part.

I've tried off brand hopups on previous cars, and they almost never improve things and always get removed when they fail to live up to expectations. I'll be keeping my cars with on brand parts only.

Still waiting on a price back from fibreltye for mine. :thumbdown:

I'm not sure how duty works with incoming shipments to UK, but postage should not be much more than your local postage for something as light as a battery brace, even if it's coming from the other side of the world. Fortunately I race locally with bezerk rc, so if there is anything that anyone wants done, contact him on facebook.

He is definitely a nice guy, and his parts seem to be of great quality. You can't go wrong with something like a battery brace, but I agree with Neal on the majority of aftermarket conversions. I do hope Yokomo will release the Euros car as a complete kit, but I'll not buy a heap of parts just for a conversion.

Obviously you don't know me, but that's not a problem at all. :lol: I'd actually prefer to share a CAD drawing, but I know people take (dis)advantage of this, thus I will not share (or draw at all)

The problem with "releasing" a conversion kit is quite simple. People don't want to do a lot to the car. Modifying cars like "we" did 10 years ago (and 20 years back even more, but I didn't do RC cars 20 years ago - I was 7 back then :lol:) is rarely done. People are scared to try things and prefer factory things. Believe me, the Yokomo guys have more modified parts than any of may dream of. That's what makes them fast and "us" slow. The real fast guys do a lot more to their cars than we do. Obviously nobody thought about the "Y-Max", but they did it, and that made them one step ahead.

To conclude this post, why I didn't even THINK about a conversion kit? Those 10 people that want to run a conversion can hack one together, it's a bit - even though I like Yokomo - waste of time to develop a conversion kit for a couple of sales. My opinion? If you want to convert, hack something together. Try it yourself. It's not that hard. If you are scared or too lazy to do it, wait for a conversion.

so the ymax conversion has even more steering than a bmax2 could ever generate. So it was not just the forward position motor of the yz-2 that made it turn so well, it is also the front end geometry.

So I hear some people have put yz-2 front end parts onto their bmax2, way before the ymax conversion was even ever thought of. It would be interesting to put them both in a head to head shootout.....