Xray xb4 2wd help!
 

Hi, just got a xb4 2wd from mb models just wondered what hopups or essential parts are needed before I bulid thanks.:thumbsup:

The only essential part is the alloy covers for the cvd's as the plastic ones are a weak spot. Kit springs are ok to start if running indoor - if outdoor then we use AE springs front and rear

Thanks, seems to be alot with alloy shock tower protectors is that just precautionary?

I've only ever used the silver protectors that came with the car - indoors I do use a lexan guard in the front tower at the request of the club but I've had my car 12 months and broken nothing and that's racing indoors at silverstone and outdoors at regionals and on 1/8 scale tracks. The cars very durable IMO - just make sure you seal all the carbon fibre parts with super glue like the manual says too.

What AE springs do you use outdoors smd why?

I personally didn't bother with the AE springs. They are good if you want a bigger range, however I found 3dot/2dot front and 2dot rear worked everywhere.

We use the yellow and purple up front and green and white rear. We liked the feel of the AE springs better outdoor as felt more progressive than the XRAY springs did (tried XRAY progressive springs but for the 2wd car I found them very inconsistent )

If you run AE springs we also run 2 hole Pistons 1.6f 1.7r with 35-40wt oil up front and 25-32.5 rear depending on the grip in the track and how big the jumps are.

If I run XRAY springs then I run the kit Pistons front and rear with 40wt f 32.5wt r

Just seen these kits have come down massively in price, does anyone know if there is an updated 2015 version around the corner like how they have updated the 4wd xb4?





Chris

Mr Talent, there have been some pictures of a number of prototypes been posted around the net. Nothing official that I have seen though.

Xray do love a yearly update!

I would expect one early 2015.

You say WE, who is WE??? Are you part of the xray team?

Cheers

I'm referring to the guys I race with who all run this buggy (7 of us at the Mid East region) - were not part of an "official" team as XRAY only have Stu Wood I believe as their official driver in the UK but we like the car and have put a lot of effort in last year to get it to work in low grip.

A couple of the guys who are in out group are supported by RCDISCO who are the XRAY importers though if that helps?

We've been running the kit Xray 3 dot front and 2 dot rear both indoor and outdoor with great success on both astro, carpet and dirt on the 2WD.

No need to go out and buy additional springs for the 2WD.

We're still running this spring setup on the new prototype Malin's been running for the last 5 months.

Here's the start setup we use for the XB4 2WD on med - high grip carpet and astro outdoors and indoors:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=xb4_2wd

Bent

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8ddff8d2.jpg

Shorty conversion will handle differently to our saddlepack standard versions, I did try a home made shorty conversion for a bit but it needed more work and I didn't have time to sort it, was getting more consistent results with the saddles. Hopefully an updated factory shorty conversion will sort this.

Same setup is being run on all our friend's saddle pack XB4's ;)

There's a very very slight shift in weight distribution on a shorty converted 2WD and a standard saddle pack layout (we have 4 x XB4 2WD's here).

Biggest benefit of the shorty conversion is that you save a small amount of overall weight which you then can add to the rear.

The main thing though is to have the front setup with a tiny amount of push.
99% of the 2WD's I see are setup way too soft with the result of the car collapsing and diffing out in the turns (which is what the majority of the complaints are all about).

We've raced the XB4 2WD on all surfaces this past year including loose dirt, clay, astro and carpet with plywood sections (slippery) with great success.

It's all in the setup really as the XB4 2WD due to it's different weight bias needs a different setup to function properly ;)

Bent

http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...pse7d5ef28.jpg

Bent - would you happen to have a setup for wet, sandy AstroTurf that's bumpy so we can compare against ?

When he says wet astro, he means so slippery you can't keep it in a straight line! Would be helpful, cheers.

I will have to dig through my old notes from earlier last season to see if I have kept some of them as we don't run the current 2WD anymore, but we have done several rounds last year on dirt (as you can see in the pictures) and at least 1 round + the National Championship was on wet astro (sand filled).

Shortening the rear arms (to move them forward) and running a ball diff (with carbide balls and glued diff rings) helps a lot especially on a bumpy track.
The traction with a properly setup ball diff is night and day on a bumpy track compared to a gear diff.

We've done several passes over bumpy sections with both ball diff and gear diffs (700cst all the way up to 10'cst) and recorded it in slow motion and the difference is huge ;)

Bent

We've shortened the rear arms to and also run the ball diff, we've also drilled a new inner hole in the rear wishbone for the lower shock mount - this helped a lot on very low grip tracks, though the shocks / springs need to be stiffer to stop the rear collapsing. Some of our astro tracks have nitro buggies running on them as well as 1/10th. These are ice rinks in the wet!

As mentioned we ran the series last year against the rear motor B5's, 22's, RB6's and B-MAX2's on both 1/10 and 1/8 blown out dirt tracks as well as the usual astro and hard packed dirt tracks…..both in the wet and the dry.

9 out of 10 of the XB4 2WD I help out are all set up too soft.
The biggest culprit is usually running the front way too soft.

How much have you shortened the rear arms ?
Are you running the ball diff with carbide or stock ceramic balls ?
Have you glued the diff rings ?
What tires are you running in the front compared to the rear.

On astro we have usually ran the normal profile staggers to have a bigger tire that don't dig in as easily (front grip has never been a problem).

Converting to a shorty setup will also help in terms of being able to add back the saved weight to the rear of the car.

Running other lighter parts in aluminum and titanium as well as a low profile servo will also help in that respect by lowering the overall weight and being able to add it back where it helps more.

But remember the XB4 2WD will never be able to compete with a rear motor in terms of mechanical grip due to the rotation of the motor and drivetrain.

Bent

How much have you shortened the rear arms ?

2mm

Are you running the ball diff with carbide or stock ceramic balls ?

Carbide (ceramic in the thrust race)

Have you glued the diff rings ?

I run Tamiya anti slip grease on the diff plates

What tires are you running in the front compared to the rear.

We run ballistic buggy greens all round bbt01 rear and bbt05 front. Schumacher silver cut staggers work on the front but the larger diameter of the front ballistics gives better weight transfer to the rear, the schumacher tyres tend to give snap oversteer on power out of slow turns.

On very slippery tracks we have found 5 deg rear toe helps a lot, it sounds like way too much, but we back to back tested with a bmax2 and found we'd got the XRAY to go even quicker than a standard mid motor. The only place it was slightly slower was out of a 180 deg hair pin, over a full lap the Xray is now as quick / quicker. Hopefully you are coming to Robinhood Raceway for the Euros, we've got the xray running great in the wet and dry there.

We don't even tend to run rear motors in the UK anymore, even at top national level in the wet all the cars are mid or hybrid.

Testing with Schui MiniPin, Mini Spike and Ballistic Pin/Spike have ended in us running the Yellow Cut Stagger in juts about all conditions even matched with rear Ballistic Greens.
Malin hate the Pin or Spike front tires and are way faster and more consistent with the normal Staggers.

Glue the diff rings with LocTite 648 and you will have a more consistent and longer lasting diff.

5 degree toe-in is no problem but as you have experienced it will bind up and slow it down in some corners.

We have shortened the rear arms 4mm and have adjusted accordingly with spacers to fine tune depending on grip level.

Rear motors are used here and in Sweden for the blown out dirt tracks……..everything else has been mostly mid motor for the last 2 years.
Almost everyone have separate cars for different conditions now.

We ran the B-Max2 in both rear and mid last year on all track surfaces.

We're entered for both the EUROS and WORLDS this year ;)

Time will be spent by the entire team to work on new setups ahead of the EUROS and WORLDS :thumbsup:

Here's her 2WD with the setup on the Xray site on astro and carpet:




And here's a newer video of her current Xray 2WD setup ;)


Bent

Bent

On your set up sheet I can't see which camber link hole you're using on the front shock tower. Top, middle or bottom?

Thanks

Bottom or middle depending on grip.

Bent

Hi guys I'm hoping to do the Mid East regional at silverstone on the 15th March just wondered what the best tyre combination would be, would I need a shock tower protector making? plus any other help would be greatly received ( I'm going to need it) thanks :thumbsup:

Low profile yellow cut staggers front, 2 sets of yellow mini spike rears with Medium inserts will be fine

Shock tower protector just use an old bit of lexan from a wing - easy!

Just wanted to say a massive thank you to luniemiester for helping me sort and set up my car at silverstone today. I did try and find you near the end but you must of gone, shame I can't improve my driving as quickly as you improved my car. :thumbsup::thumbsup: