Team associated B44.3
 

Just finished my B44.3
Really nice build and some great improvements over the B44.2

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=6705

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=6706

Ben

Looking good ben :thumbsup:
what gear diffs oils u using ? As will be getting my today :woot:

Any tips before i build it

Half way through my build.

What are people using oil wise?

Anyone going shorty?

So far build is really nice, building gear diffs ive never done before so any tips for making sure shimming is correct id very much appreciate

Russ

Obviously it's a bit early days on which oils to use, but having seen quite a few guys using 10k front and 7k rear that's what I went with for astro. I also went for 100k in the centre diff, which should be good on high-grip but I may go thinner for indoors. I've also built mine with the shorty layout, so we'll see how that goes :D

Whilst on the subject of diffs I ended up only using 1x of the #9888 0.5mm shims (Actually 0.2mm) on the drivecups in each diff, this is because with the pictured 2x #9888's I found the diff bound a little too much for my liking after having forced the #9937 diff pin through. I made sure to keep the internal shimming the same, so the two #9888's as pictured where used and the shimming felt spot on as such :). I would also recommend putting the bearings on both the drivecup and ring gear before you assemble the drive cups, this is because the bearings internal diameter is slightly smaller than the external diameter of the #9888's which you need to get past in order to complete the diff. Also pay close attention to the shimming of the diffs inside of the gearbox's, I found my front diff was spot on with the recommended 3x #3911's on both sides of the diff, but the rear was a little tight so I swapped one shim onto the cup side to give me a little more play - Having said that I'll be re-checking after a few packs and it may need to be swapped round again.

When building the centre diff with heavy weight diff fluid such as that which I used, make sure you pre-apply as much oil as you can onto the diff gears and into the cup before you put the two together. I filled it as I have done with every other gear diff which I've built, and quickly wondered where all the oil went after building it! The oil is so thick it doesn't penetrate into the diff cup, which is why you apply as much as you can before trying to pack it into the cup with the gears installed.

Other than the diffs the rest of the build has been pretty smooth, the only other section I found myself frustrated with was the CVD's, which if you haven't had a B44 before doesn't clearly illustrate that the longer CVD axles are meant to be installed onto the shorter rear driveshafts, where as the shorter one's are for the front.

Hi, my rear center cva is 98.2 mm long. Manual saids it is 92.2 mm (#9596) and the hole at the end is to small😠😠. And the body shell has a fault in it 😠😠 this is not going well. On the good side the diffs built great.

Just measured all mine there jus 0.1 shot on average thats alot that bud.

I am sure CML will sort asap for you though!!

Mine built perfectly as per manual and drives and performed great

does it come with the chassis protector like the .2 did ?

Not that ive seen so far with it being ally like b5 i wouldnt expect one tbh

Nope

Some here that look good...http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...219#post881219
;)

Highly reccomended!!

Well on the table its just about ready, proofs in the running though fingers crossed

Ran mine 1st time tonight and it handles really well, would recommend changing
the ball cups to some stronger ones and definetly a thicker oil in front diff.

Overall its amazing how well it runs and its a bonus not having setup the ball diffs, it just goes job done.

Also just like the b44.2 add 2 spacers in the front shocks the .3 is no different there.

Is it me or side by side with .2 the centre layout is further foward, is that because of weight as now no slipper or some other reason. It must put more bias to front.

I've heard it's further forward to accommodate the shortly lipo

It is forward and looks like for that reason, there should have been an alternative antenna position added as running with saddle packs you cant have the rx behind the motor right were the antenna mount is.
The only option i can see and its what i have done is add an antenna mount to the unused shorty bracket hole in the bottom deck and run it up from there.
There is a ton of space between the lipos and the centre diff compared to the .2

More steering basically ????
You don't need a receiver wire showing just fold it up I've never had a problem
Has anyone tried the shorty yet ?
If you use a VTS it has to go the opposite way round also

My rx wite never shows but im anal about wires so i heat the antenna tube and run it under the shell, coiling wires isnt any good although i dont have problems neither, yes def got great steering and i added 80g between lipos during the build, suprised at how well it runs on polished floor and carpet at the local club (

Which way round for low grip tracks is it then....

motor forward with saddles or motor rear with shorty pack ???

Also what are you running, centre diff or slipper in the middle ???

cheers

I think shorty for low grip as it adds weight to the back, i run saddle so added a centre weight between the saddles

I ran the car a few laps on wet astro . it was bloomingly quick aldo it whas understeering a lot more than my 44.2 . both cars whare at a saddel layout . and the 44.3 whas builth like the manual so maybe there was some work to be done at the shocks but did not had the time for that .

Im gonna go up an oil in the front and higher in the centre diff to make up.
Then ill try yellow springs on front

In the wet you need to go down in oil in front diff.
Try 7000 maybe
Lower the weight in front the better the turn in
:thumbsup:

That is what I hate on geard diffs . or you need 4 of them so its just a fit strait in or get greasy with the oils . ah well you cant have it all I gues

When are the b44.3 spares actually coming? All .3 related spares are taking ages, and the car itself is out for a few weeks already.

have been running the car on a indoor clay track .
and whare my 44.2 was loose on the rear the .3 is compleetly out off controle .
Its a hand full to drive . as far as I have seen most are running it in schorty mode . I was running it in saddel mode . enny Idees as I have tested it all . even putted ball dif in the rear

Mine was like that on the rear And I'm eventually at 10.000k in front 100.000k centre, 5,000k rear, using roll bar,changed springs and shock oil changed during build and its holding better, I think the trick it heavier oil in front 1st.

How are people gettin on with the .3s?

I ran same set up as .2 and its really nice to drive at worksop, really like the gear diffs

Anyone found shimming has stayed the same or had to change? I still run the 1 on outdrive and 2 inside as sum1 here reccomnended. Seems ok so far!

Did try without rear weight but prefer in

Im still interested in shorty layout but saddle works great.

Mines going well now, changed oil, springs.
weight, shock oil and all .2 adjustments made during build.
Added silver sway bar, all else is standard.
Diff's built perfect first time no leaks and shimmed by the book.
Saddle pack build

It runs great loving it.

Finally getting round to building mine today! :thumbsup:

Definetly agree with the previous comment about putting the bearings and washers on before you build the actual diff up ! You can get them on afterwards by pushing them down with an open pair of pliers though. Surely this needs changing in the instructions or smaller washers in the future so the bearings slide over.

Does anyone know what the large silver 0.5mm washers are supplied in the diff kit ?? Doesn't say to use them anywhere!

Also the c clips that hold the gear on the inner front and rear cva isnt a great fit or is it just mine ? Would of been easier of it was flush the end of the gear rather than having a recess. C clip seems to move way too easily when it's fitted.

Followed the post above with 1 outer washer fitted and 2 inner as 2/2 was too tight

Gaz

Mine will arrive prebuilt hopefully tomorrow ! will be my 1st B44 so looking forward to running this. Are the front arms as weak as people say and is it worth getting a set of the RPM front arms ?

No the arms are ace ! You will only break one if you hit something hard!! I've probably broke 4 in 4 years

Rpm wishbones ? No no no !!

Ps best car !!!

Great cheers Gaz, like everything try it yourself then. ;)

Hard arms would be good !
Especially on front
More consistent

The big washers are in the kit in error and they don't get used, front arms are a joke lol, snap when you try to put your lipo in, you don't have to hit anything just clip the ropes on your way past and there off, RPM all the way if you can get them, I had to order from the USA, have 3 set enroute when they get here !!!, centre diff may leak but there is a new modified centre diff case with a thicker cap so less distortion when tightened down, and keep a good stock of front tyres as the car destroys them for fun

Interesting new parts and placement of the servo on Cav's car ;)

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ps00d8f257.jpg

The New SWorkz S104 is configured the same.
http://www.area52.cc/news/5519-swork...o-4wd-kit.html

What are those blue things ?

You mean the rear arm mounts ?

No, look near the front top deck !