slipper connecting cup (T02182)
 

I still get heavy wear on the slipper connecting cup (T02182) anybody know if there is a hardened version of this
TM2v1

There is not a hardned version at the moment.
If you clean and grease it after a day racing.
It wil last a full season racing
Same for al the axels.

Thanks but what grease do you use:confused:

I use a lithium base grease.

Please don't throw the old ones away Lee.

I want to investigate. :D

Are you racing on Sunday?

No I am not going for a few weeks but will keep them for you

Hi Clive

pm your address and I can send you one

Mike

Clive how about making one like a MIP puck drive?

Just put a gaiter over it and put a load of moly grease in there, will last for ages then.

Is that like this?


Sadly Mike's drive shaft fell out of the envelope on its way to me so I won't be able to assemble it.

The pad/puck will be brass but the material is also in the post somewhere so I proved the programming with some aluminium.

I think that with the pad/puck in brass it should be possible to recover even badly worn cups as the pad spans the notch.

Looks good Clive. No problem to drive pin out and re-assemble.

Mike

Nice one Clive, yes just like that :thumbsup:

Whey-hey!!! I've got some brass!

Lee, if you are still in bother give me a shout. I make the pads in pairs and it would only take me an hour to modify the cup.

Hey Clive, if it's possible, i'm quite interested for some, for my Tm4 & Tm2 !!! :woot:

No problem for the TM2 but I'm not familiar with the TM4. Does it use the same cup for the front and rear drive? I guess that the centre diff upgrade will be different too. I will have a look at the manuals when I have the chance.

I'm currently drawing up the tooling required to do the same thing on the gear diff out drives on my TC02C. Looks as though it will work and should reduce friction too.

EDIT: Looks like the drive cup on the rear of the slipper will fit on my jig but the front one, being part of the shaft, will require a completely different approach. I would need to know that more than one would ever be asked for.

I use the same cup on both TM2 & TM4 ... Cheaper, and it fits :thumbsup: (T02182)

That's good, as that's the one I have already modified.

Does the forward drive cup not wear also? T04120

unfortunatly, I don't know.:cry:
Presently, i'm used to change only the pin of the shaft and each hub/cup.
For the T04120, I just buy the whole part.

I have asked at the club today and the general feeling was that the front drive shaft carries so little load that it probably doesn't need any urgent attention.

So, with respect to the T02182, do you want to send worn parts to me to have slipper pads fitted? Or do you want to modify new parts?

Clive yes the drive cup wears too. I'd be interested in both of these. How much you looking for for the puck drive?

I shall look at the machining times today.

When you say "both" is that the front and back dive cup of the TM4? I'm hoping that the fixture that I'm making for the gear diff out drives will also allow me to hold the centre shaft of the slipper. With any luck, it may also manage to clamp the out drives of the centre diff.

I'm making a batch of pucks at the minute as I think that they will be common across all applications. I also have some 11.8mm long pins on order so that the pins have a decent engagement in the puck.

I would expect it to work out at £10 or £12 per coupling.

Hi Clive :D

To answer your previous question, I can send you my old parts, but i'm more interested with buying the whole new package :thumbsup:

OK, no problem but I will need you to identify which part numbers you require and how many of each. I see a lot of posts from people asking which length of drive shaft they should buy and I don't want that responsibility. :D

I meant both the puck and the connecting cup
I shall give you a message when the new car arrives

I have looked at the machining time and can confirm that the price will be £12 per coupling + parts + postage & packaging.

Postage would be tracked and signed for if new parts are involved.

I have just assembled a pair of "Puck-Drives" for my TC02C drive shafts using some worn out out-drives.

The picture also shows the assembly and dismantling tool that I have made from an odd scrap of aluminium in order to avoid damage to the brass pucks whilst the pins are driven in.

The only problem that I encountered was that the 6mm ball-end on the drive shaft was not true to the drive pin. As a result there was a slight tight spot but after dressing the ball-end with a needle file I then ran the joint in a cordless drill for a couple of minutes and all is fine.

I shall probably give them one run without lubricant to knock off the high spots and then use some graphite loaded penetrating oil on them from there on. The penetrating oil evaporates to just leave the graphite and it also repels water without any greasy mess to attract dust and grime. I intend to do that with the outboard end also.

great !!!! :thumbsup:

First TM2 slipper drive shaft has been assembled without a problem.

http://forum.teamcracing.net/forum.p...xtra=#pid11962

Puck-Drives
 

The brass puck proved not to be hard enough so I am now making them in hardened steel.

Tests on Mike's very worn TM2 slipper out-drive are looking good and having run my TC02C at the weekend, with the puck-drives on the diff out-drives, I can say that there is no sign of wear at all. :thumbsup:

I'm using a penetrating oil lubricant that leaves a film of PTFE after the liquid has evaporated. I'm putting this on the UJ's as well. If nothing else it will repel water. Looks like we are racing outdoors until Christmas at Southport.

This is the worn TM2 slipper cup that has been recovered by fitting the hardened steel puck/blade.

The hefty notch can clearly be seen but the coupling is performing well and not showing any signs of wear.

How much are you selling these for?

Hi,

Any future work would be done at £16 per coupling plus postage.

If you provide the worn or new parts, then that is the price to machine the cup and fit the puck/blade to the dog-bone. A new and longer pin is fitted.

It's the same price if you want to assemble it yourself. That way you don't have to send me the drive shaft. But you do have to know what you are doing with a 2lb hammer. :D

The other end of the drive shaft will probably wear out first. In which case you can swap the puck and pin over to the new one. :thumbsup:

FEEDBACK ON HBI "C-DRIVES"

Hello,
My name is Marcel and I'm Team-C driver in Germany. I'm 21 years old and compete in North Rhine-Westphalia, mainly in the NRW-Offroadcup, 5-Days Langenfeld and the German Championships. I want to give you feedback on the modified drive couplings by Clive. (HBI)


It all started quite simply. I had seen, on the Team-C forum, a couple of his pictures and followed his thread. A short time later I wrote to him and sent him pictures of my worn-out sleeves:
TM4_orig.jpg


After he had given me the OK, I sent him the stuff and 2 weeks later, I got everything back again, repackaged!
Cups_new.jpg


After exact inspection I have installed the new C-Drives and they fit perfectly!
The trick behind this is that you can widen the slot in the sleeve and then cover the drive shaft pins with a C-shaped hardened tool steel blade. This gives more contact surface and the wear of pins / sleeves is zero. The modification has given me more speed and control, because I can drive the car just like the first day I had it. It responds directly to my commands and I can drive so consistently! And I don't need to think about the wear. :thumbsup:

The first race is already gone and I am very happy with the difference!
Photos of my TM2v2 and TM4 are on the Team-C forum:
TM2v2_cups.jpg

TM4cups_cut2_10,5mm.jpg


If you have further questions, Clive and I are happy to assist you.

I was told about this thread on Saturday,so today I took my centre shaft out of the TM2 because the pin has severely worn. Having checked the other end,that's just as worn. So I've had to buy a new driveshaft and cup.
Was hoping this could save me some cash but unfortunately not.

LOL

It might do if you send the new shaft and a drive cup to me, as the indications are that if fitted with the C-Drive then it will last all year. The car may be faster too.

I don't know how much of a contribution the notched drive cup makes to the wear of the other end but there is a good bet that the whole thing will stay healthy for a lot longer with the C-Drive fitted. When the CV joint has had it, you can always shift the C-Drive parts over to a new one. :D

I've used mine for the last two years now so you can imagine how much ware it has.
When I get my new parts I'm going to take the rubber boots off my 410 driveshafts and try those. Fill them full of grease and see what that does.
I don't run my 410 much and if I do it's mainly indoors anyway.