Team Orion Vortex R10 ESC Questions
 

Hi all,
Ran the ESC tonight in the durango dex410. Problem is after 3mins the thermal protection would kick in, it happened in all three of my runs. I'm running a speed passion 6.5t motor and 19t pinion if that helps. At no point did the ESC feel hot to touch which makes me think it's something else and if I switch the esc on/off it reset? Any thoughts?

Cheers

no expert on the r10, but can you set up the overheat temp,(as you can with the speed passion) is it to low? if the esc is cool is it the motor overheating not the esc, have had a problem with a 6.5 sp before if one of the pins on the motor feels loose/has movement it starts to run very hot just a thought:confused:

not sure on the overall ratio of the 410 but 19T is quite low, the instructions of the 22-4 point you in that direction and I and other I know end up running 22-23-24 ish

I'm not sure on setup as far as I'm aware it's running stock settings. I have seen some 'winning' setups from other drivers and they all seem to disable thermal protection. I've also read of people returning the esc to horizon due to this. Hmmm

A 19t pinion seems a bit low for a SpeedPassion motor, I'm sure when I used to run a SP 6.5 in my old Durango that I was nearer 21-22t.

I would suggest 22/23/24 pinion for SP6.5 in DEX410 - 19 is too low for our tracks/tyres IMO. Gearing recommendations for US-brand cars is just that, a recommendation, and usually doesn't factor in the significantly larger diameter of dirt tyres vs our Astro tyres - if you compare a mounted Proline Holeshot to a mounted Schumacher Minispike, you'll see what I mean!

I have also run it with a 21t pinion, it still bring up this green led error!?

I think I may of found the cause! The esc is running stock firmware. Do I need the program box to change this?

There doesn't seem to be a "standard" for the the thermal monitoring and in my experience it only really works properly when both ESC and motor are from the same supplier.

Shouldn't have a problem with the thermal cut out on the R10 with an Orion motor, I never have and I gear quite high to smooth out these brushless monsters.
Try it with an Orion motor and see if the same thing happens, sure somebody will have one you can borrow.
If it does it might actually be a sign that your cells are below par, I saw something similar happen with a friends car just before his LiPos died.

Nick

To answer your question yes you need the program box to update software/firmware whichever it's called.

You'll also need a PC with internet; download onto this from Orion website downloads page. Install the program, then first connect and update program box to latest version.

Then attach speedo and choose which version of software you want on there; obi the MOD version. All very easy and quick to do.

The orion R10 Pro requires a lipo to be attached, but be careful if you change speedos in future, for instance, my speed passion doesn't require a lipo and some people have fried laptops doing this!

If you can find someone to lend you the program box you're laughing; it is useful though a little pricey new I think.

So in short, get a program box, install the latest MOD firmware and all should be good?

Fingers crossed, no guarantee of course but it's the next sensible thing to check, along with checking that gear ratio is suitable.

Check your soldering as well
Check there is nothing binding in the drive train, you should get a good roll with the pinion removed. If not something bindings or a bearings gone

Transmission is nice and smooth solderings good although I have considered redoing all the cables to esc. I've ordered a program box that should be here over the next couple of days and with change the firmware from stock to mod and start with factory settings I think, anything else to check? I think everything's been covered

After some closer inspection I found the switch wires frayed where they exit the case. Far to complex for me to tackle. Looks like a new esc is required and see if I can sell this as spare repair! Note to self, never buy anything used again!

Have a word with pugs on here, he's a wizz at fixing speed controllers mate

Cheers mate, PM sent. To be fair it's just a bit of soldering that needs doing but it's just to intricate for me. Thanks again

I know it is easy to be put off 2nd hand stuff when you get a problem, but is think 99% of sellers tell the full story (although I'm always amazed how many people sell stuff after just using it 3 times :thumbsup:)

It is still a good route to decent stuff at good prices - sorry this one didn't work out

Can win em all hey Chris. Hopefully get it sorted!

I'm pretty sure updating to the mod firmware will sort the issue. after reading some info on Team Orions site they confirmed that running a mod motor on stock firmware is definatly a no no, note the last point below:

Please read before updating!

• For Windows computers only!
• The optional ORI65150 Vortex DSB-R program box is required to use this software.
• When you connect the ESC to the computer via the programming box, the software automatically detects the ESC type and only shows the compatible ESC firmware
• Not all the ESC connect the same way to the program box. Check the DSB-R instructions for information on how to connect your ESC to the program box.
• Make sure to update the program box firmware before you can update the ESC firmware.
• Stock motor firmware is only for stock motors! Low wind motors will be damaged with this firmware.

Fingers crossed

Well been the club tonight, thermal protection kicked in again ffs. The motor did feel hot though. Gear mesh is good, soldering is perfect, drivetrain is nice and free, I haven't got a clue now. I have been looking at setups on orions website and even some of the pro setups have this function disabled, should I just switch it off?

Hi,
Just install the right mod software and the ESC should be fine.
The stock software has mega timing built in and should not be used with modified motors unless you know 100% what you are doing.

I've already installed the mod firmware mate, the latest from the orion website. It's a 6.5t speedpassion motor I'm running if that helps. Any other settings I should check?

If you have the correct Mod software installed, then make sure all settings are set to default, and try again.
Just be aware that if you borrow a DSB and it has different firmware to your ESC it can also be a problem.

Also make sure you use a Team Orion sensor lead as there are some querks out there, the temp pin on the orion is different to some, This normally shows up when it wont communicate to the DSB.

Cheers Neil,
It's a brand new dsb. I updated this first, then updated to the latest mod firmware on the esc. Everything is at default in the settings. The sensor lead I'm using is the one I updated with so I'm assuming this is ok. Think I may need to change the motor (speedpassion) at least to rule it out as a/the problem

if its a speedpassion with the push on connectors that could well be your problem they wobble around they caused me all sorts of strange problems.

It is yeah, 6.5t v3.0 and it does have push on connectors, they all feel like a tight fit?

Should be ok if there tight, they shouldn't be easy to pull off, I ended up soldering the connectors on and it cured the problems, try another motor just to eliminate that.

Will do, just need get hold of one, do you think 6.5t is a bit overkill for small indoor tracks? Maybe why its getting so hot?

it really depends on the your level of driving and the track, if your making alot of mistakes then yes its probably too much, how long is the straight?

I'd say 20 maybe 25 meters

I've had the DSB back on the esc tonight, checked the firmware is correct, it is. Turned boost and turbo to 0 and drag brake off, everything else is stock. All soldered joints are perfect. Checked the sensor wire is connected both ends and also checked the posts on the speed passion motor, all is fine, no movement etc. I put some fresh heat shrink over the female plugs to ensure nothing is touching the end bell. Refit the motor after checking the drivetrain, which is nice and free and made sure the meshing is good. Recalibated the esc to radio system with all end points at 100%. I then put some old wheels on an popped in some charged saddles and took it over the road in the cul de sac, ran great, nice and smooth throttle control, but 5-6mins in, flashing green led, motor and esc were warm but definatly not hot, I'm truly stumped now just don't know what do with the thing

Either compatibility issue or a fault with the speedo IMO.

Does it still error with the overheat disabled ?

You`re going to need to try another motor to discover which it is.

Be interesting to try another SP first as its just a plug in job and you`ll not have to alter your wiring. You`ll then know instantly whether your own motor is ok. It would point towards a compatibility issue or the speedo at fault if you get a repeat of the error. Id try a different brand of motor as the second step to confirm which.

Sounds like you have done everything anyone else would have done so far anyway, its just a process of elimination.

I'm thinking maybe under geared now? Gonna try a bigger pinion tomorrow!

Are you Batteries any good

Yeah brand new

Ran it just with a 22t pinion. Set the countdown timer to 5mins. I was being moderate/hard on throttle and brakes a few full throttle bursts. Nothing �� no thermal. I reset the timer and went again straight away and it went for another 2.5mins so 7.5mins this time which is twice as long as it had been running with the 19t pinion. Il give it a go with a 23t tomorrow see how it goes. Thoughts?

I'm not sure why but I've seen it mentioned several that if you're under geared the speedo gets hot and over geared the motor gets hot.
Maybe the speedo was hot on the inside but with the alloy case and fan most of this heat was dissipated so it still felt only warm to touch.
When ever in run a speedo/motor combo from different manufacturers I always disable the motor overheat protection though as this protection only really works when both are the same make.