TLR 22-4 MODS
 

Haven't run my 22-4 yet (work :thumbdown:) But have noticed and heard people using a wider rear end with parts from the 22 2.0
What parts are required to do this ?
Also why are people going over to a shorty cell on the left ? Is this just for a better weight distribution ?
Any other MODS people are doing ?

Oi just turn up and run it, you dirty red!

Even I ran 4wd today.

Just haven't had time Aide, last time I raced out doors was the Easter Egg race !!!!! :o If I had my own company then I could slope off :lol:

I would recommend getting your own company there dead boss! :lol:

Main issue is the 22-4's weight. Its a heavy car and we found running it with the shorty packs really livened the car up. The 22 2.0 rear end helped with stability, one thing we found was difficult to stop was the rear end dumping under load which this helped stop. Also finally moving the rear shocks to infront of the tower made a big difference. To do this all you need to do is swap the rear wishbones around and mount the shocks on the front. On a quick not you need to space the drive shafts when running the 2wd rear end. Oh it also gives you more droop ��
hth!

Hi Fletch
So do I just need 2.0 rear hubs and drive shafts then ?

That's correct mate. Plus about 1.6mm in driveshaft spacers. I'm running 1.0mm on mine but its close to popping a shaft so ill be adding some more before the car goes back on track. I had 2.0mm on my previous (stolen) 22-4 and it was ok but made the hex a little tight against the bearing

If you use the std width alloy hex for the 22 it stops the bearing binding up.

Off the 22 2.0 or the 22-4 John ?

Off the 22/22 2.0, I think the std width 22-4 ones are wider and put the car over the limit.

The alloy hexes have a little step built in that stops it binding on the bearing, so your able to tighten your wheels fully.

I'm running saddles with just +1.5mm rear hubs, what benifits does the moving the rear shocks to the front give? Many of you running the modified rear camber links o
Allowing a lower position?

What benifits does moving the rear shocks to the front side of the wishbone?

Has anyone fitted a modified rear camber bracket allowing the ball to be lowerd a hole down where did you get one and what benefits does it have?

What benafits are there to fitting g the 22 rear hubs and wishbones

Intrested to know What you guys think to these mods and what affects did it have to the buggy?

Are there any other mods??

+1 on rear forward shocks. Would like to know benefits :D

Try it, it costs nothing to do;) I don't think I know of anyone whose tried it & gone back to having them on the rear.

Simply, it puts the weight more forward, frees up the rear end & makes it drive like a normal car.

I don't own a 22-4, but have done a similar modification on my 22 2.0. Without doing any other set-up changes it feels like it stiffens the rear end up a little, less on power understeer and a more consistent feeling between entry, middle and exiting a turn.
However I do prefer the kit position when the track is slippery and or bumpy.

Brilliant cheers guys just need info on the other mods now

As others has said, it allows the car to slide around the corner more instead of digging in and grip rolling. I certainly will not be going back to the kit settings. Combine this with the sway bars and it takes away the grip roll completely.

Simon

The 22 rear hubs makes the car wider, known as increasing the track. So in theory giving the car more understeer thus making it less twitchy. I am running stock hubs on mine so I don't know what it's like with the 22 hubs. That said, I have got it where I want it with regards to the twitchiness. The kit setup is un-driveable but that "go kart" feel can be fixed with setup and not necessarily buying 22 hubs.

Simon

I've done the Hub Conversion i wanted to know what the benefits of the shocks in the forward position was. Tbh the car is how i like so probably wont change the shock position unless it really is a big benefit :bored:

I'd say shocks forward was a bigger and better change then the 2wd rear end, esp as its free to do, only takes 5 mins to do.

On a side note, anyone got a centre diff yet, and what do you think of it?

1. Rear camber link - takes away the need for roll bars and stops the rear rolling over mid corner
2. Rear shocks on the front - put more weight over the rear axle making it better over the bumps
3. 22 2.0 rear end - makes the car wider closer to the legal limit as with std hubs the car is very narrow
4. Shortie lipo conversion - sheds up to 80 grams of weight
5. 10deg castor blocks - moved 2mm further forward makes the car better into corners
6. Raising the knuckle arm 2mm - keeps the front end flatter and stops it diving into corners
7. Associated/Durango springs - more progressive than TLR items
8. New cab forward shell - helps with initial steering
9. Centre diff - I can see it working on slippery tracks but not on our high grip tracks, as rather than your front or rear diff feeling a little gritty it would be the centre one that goes (much bigger job to rebuild)

Hope this helps rather than people saying do it it's free.

Your point 6 is this where you cut the steering hub and move up or down with a 2mm spacer

you have trid the Center diff?:
http://www.rcshox.com/tlr-22-4-cente...onversion-kit/

I too have associated springs and the cab forward body. I bought the associated springs because I wanted a stiffer front end (running purple on the front) to take away that go-kart feel - similar to Losi black but I can't say they are any better than TLR springs.

I also run the cab forward body - again I don't know whether it's better than the stock body but it looks better. Everything I have done to the car, I am loving it now. In the wet and dry.

I likely won't go for wider rear hubs as this will give more understeer.

One thing this car has taught me is you need to learn how to set the thing up, it just doesn't work out of the box, but once you get it setup, it performs really well.

Cheers
Simon

Thats settled it for me then. Shall me making the change for the weekend :) cheers :)

What is the camber link mod? And any pictures of it?
Thanks Bob

Hi Simon and others.

Could you upload your setup in the setup thread? :thumbsup: so we can get this awake again :woot:

I have done this. See my setup sheet here: https://simonpublic.blob.core.window...tember2014.pdf

I'm planning on picking one of these up on a black Friday sale. Want to setup for high grip carpet. Want to plan what mods to do right away. Any suggestions will be appreciated

Thanks Bob

Ok so i tried as many of the changes as i could at a club day last night. ANd i am still not really sure what is happening.

Heat 1: i went out with my stock setup (shorty battery, rest pretty much standard) fastest lap: 12.85

Heat 2: swapped to the 10 degree caster blocks,
The car felt a little bit more aggressive, it would cut into the corners a bit quicker, but i felt like i had to nurse/fight the car around as I usually tend to set my cars up so they feel safe, lap times were improved though. Fastest lap: 12.54


Heat 3: fitted the 22 2.0 hubs, drive shafts and hexes (with the small spacer that comes with the drive shafts) and mounted the shocks on the front.
popped a drive shaft in lap one :(

Heat 4: fitted the 22 2.0 wishbones.
The car did feel like i could push it a lot harder with this setup. But i think the biggest telling point is that i managed to drive for an entire 5 minutes without making a mistake (or popping a drive shaft :lol:). Slightly disapointed that the lap times didnt improve! Fastest lap 12.52

Final
popped a drive shaft on lap 2. Marshal fixed it, so then i went on a mission to destroy my fastest lap time. fastest lap: 12.32

Summary
I am pretty divided if the changes made that much difference for me personally (for my driving style), I do like the idea that the 22 2.0 back end makes the car wider, so i will probably stick with it, that's if i can actually solve the drive shafts popping out (do others run the entire back end with the wishbones?). ANy suggestions welcome, i tried shoving an extra spacer on the inside of the hub, but then i couldn't get the drive pin in.

I might try swapping the 10 and 15 degree hubs one more time just to get a feel for the difference. I still need to do a lot of playing, i run two many cars to really appreciate the subtle changes that its probably making.

But on paper, the hubs made the biggest difference in lap time, but it just made the car a bit scarier to drive. the rear end made little change in lap times, but the car did feel a little more planted, and crucially, less mistakes.

I don't know of anyone that runs the 22 2.0 rear wishbone, with popping drive shafts out do you run any limiters inside your rear shocks? I run 22 rear shock shafts as they are 2mm shorter and 2mm internal washer.

Are you using the top hat spacer that goes between the hub and the hex on the 22? You don't need to use that as it stops you spacing the driveshaft from the inside of the hub. Use spacers on the inside and the shaft shouldn't pop out, I haven't got any spacers in my shocks & the shaft stays in ok.

If you don't have the alloy 22 hexes, use the 22-4 ones as they have a little step on the inside that stops the bearings binding when you tighten the wheels up.

I am using the alloy 22 hexes, and the spacer that comes with the 22 2.0 drive shafts, its about 1mm, but i havent measured it. Not running any drop limiters in the shocks. The 22-4 rear wishbones made the driveshaft pop a couple of times, the 2wd wishbones are a bit shorter, so it was a bit better, but still managed to pop out. will have to do a bit more tinkering.