New to the 104
 

I've just got hold of a nearly new104 and wondered what mods are essential?

I've seen the rear motor/shorty conversion and I know the evo kit is also used a lot.
Is the longer wheelbase a better bet than swapping the motor round?

I run saddles so would prefer not to change cell type without good reason.

Get the chassis conversion as that apparently makes it better. I did but havent tried it yet, answer rc in the link below in my name tag sell the complete package and worth it

Most and myself are useing the saddle batteries set up, new evo set up really helps the buggy and calms it down, I'm useing the rear 25g Weighte, deffinitly use the yokomo blue prongs for the shocks there cheap and really help bud I think it's a brilliant buggy

Thanks guys. Cos I saved some money by getting a used roller, I had already considered getting the evo chassis pack. It'll get ordered in the morning!
I've seen some posts about kit springs being tight on the shocks? Mine seem ok and I'll look around for kyosho ones.
Extra weight still needed on the back end even with evo chassis?

I'm useing pink springs on the back blue on the front , deffinitly use the yokomo o rings in the shocks, I'm also useing +2mm hubs the buggy is very narrow if your on FB look to join sworkz racers forum for lots of info

It's not the springs that are tight it's the standard o-seals. Swap them for yokomo ones

Who stocks yokomo o rings?

Here you go lads
http://www.zen-racing.co.uk/catalog/...roducts_id=728

Thanks for the info about O rings. Am I right in thinking that the evo chassis kit includes wider hubs?

Nope you use the hubs from the kit bud

O rings ordered, thanks for the link

Great advice guys, thanks!
I got the EVO kit Monday and fitted it yesterday - nice to have space for the ESC on the chassis now. Really looking forward to trying it out at Southport next weekend. I'm running it with kit hubs, may invest in the +2mm ones after it's had an outing. Having just converted from an Aero to this I am keen to see how it compares, it'll probably outdo my driving ability anyway..!

Hi Alan

Ran mine at the last round of oople series last weekend at Southport. You have probably got a base stup, but this was mine and it went and felt awsome all weekend.

10k front diff
7k rear diff

front shocks
32.5wt 5 hole pistons (white) 2x1.2mm 3x1.5mm
kit springs

rear shocks
30wt 5 hole pistons (white) 2x1.2mm 3x1.5mm
pink springs

both front and rear shocks fully incline at top and outer on wishbones

1.3mm rear antiroll bar and swapped between 1.3 and 1.5mm on front depending on tyre condition.

rear camber link
middle hole on hub and bottom inner on rear shock tower holder

2mm hubs all round and batteries moved right back.

I look forward to racing this car every time and each time it just screams to be pushed harder and harder:woot:. Have fun and hope all goes well :thumbsup:

Paul

Cheers Paul..!
Actually I don't have any sort of set-up to work from, it hasn't turned a wheel in anger yet so your settings will be a great help. I only have the roll-bars as supplied, so not sure what thickness they are but I have built it with the batteries right to the back as I guessed it might need extra traction. I will arrange shocks as per your suggestion.

Hi Alan

If you look on one side of the roll bar, it will have a series of marks (square). Depending on how many there are, will depend on the thickness.

I.E. 3 marks denotes a thickness of 1.3mm
5 marks denotes a thickness of 1.5mm and so fourth.

Hope this helps and good luck for the weekend. Let us know how it went.

Paul

Well I gave it its first outing today. Showery weather meant inconsistant track conditions and I ran yellow fronts with BB green rears. Leaving my rubbish driving skills to one side the car felt really good and jumped in a really neutral way. I set shocks as per Pauls advice and it felt very settled. The +2mm hubs seem to be out of stock but I will invest in them for sure.
The day finished early for me though, after flipping the car it lost drive, then ran for a few seconds but sounded like it was cogging. I couldnt suss the problem trackside but found it straightaway at home - bad connection on wire from esc to motor..!

104 weak point?
 

First race outing after the loose wiring didn't prove any more succesful..!

2nd. heat saw me flip the car after a jump, landing on it's front shock mount saw it rip the mounting out of the diff case. New casing required!

It wasn't a spare I anticipated needing but on order now. Has anyone else experienced this?

successful meeting..!
 

Gave the 104 another outing yesterday at Southport, no breakages and a great shakedown run.
I ran 27.5wt in rear shocks with 5 hole pistons and pink springs. 30wt in front, same pistons and black springs. The back end seemed a little 'jumpy' over the small ripples and I wondered if people still run brass weights at the back?
saddle packs set fully back, any thoughts?

Get the brass end plate for the chassis and may resolve that issue.

are you running standard pistons?

Are you guys running the 2 hole pistons, wich ones and what affect is it having on the buggy compare to standard ones? How you guys getting on with the bump steer?

ive tried the durango pistons but find it too soft, i usually run 1.7 two hole 650wt front and Rear 1.5 3 hole 400 wt or there abouts, as for bump steer just move the carbon plate to the underside of the hub and dremel the wishone to give more lock if required

I did try the plate underneath but thought there was just as much bump steer? Where did you get those pistons?

I melted the standard pistons to seal the holes and re drilled them to suit

I think there are two areas you didnt change, one being the slop on the steering itself thats bolted to the chassis. Ive spaced my plastic servo saver section andthis helps. The other area is have sorted the height of the ball joint once you moved the plate on the knuckle arm? If not then you will get a lot of bump steer so to resolve you should be putting a spacer under the metal ball joint to counteract you lowering the plate.

You may also need to adjust your tie rods as well. Hope that helps.

Yeap carbon plates are underneath now , but also put washers on top over the Ackerman plate to lower that too?

Yes, kit pistons. Maybe changing them + brass weight will calm it down?

I just p the spacers under the ball joint. Still now you will see the difference that little change will do to the feel of the car.

Are you talking of the brass back underneath chassis plate? What difference do you notice if using?

I'm running 5 hole pistons, but where are you running your front top wishbones high or low on the inserts?

I'm running top front wishbones low in the inserts, but I'm not too worried about front-end, I just feel that the rear end needs 'calming down' over ripples as it seems lively in a straight line. Thats why ive asked about under chassis rear weight. Or will altering the front end have some effect?

I turned the insert around so the pin is in the upper position it calmed it right down and made it a lot easier to drive a silly thing I forgot about but a big change to the car bud

Thanks for that luke, I'll be running it again next sunday and should have the +2mm hubs by then as well.

how did you get on with the changes?

Well did maritime yesterday and had a few issues with setting it up correctly, however even though i wasnt on the A final pace due to not finding a solution to that the car did perform faultlessly, took some heavy impacts easily with a scratch so quite impressed with how sturdy the car is. After doing the bump steer mod and giving kick up to the top front wishbone and adding the under chassis brass weight it did make a big difference. I would advise buying countersunk washers and putting on the front shock balls (screw goes into the counter side of the washer) to stop them popping off as that cost me whilst chasing for a possible top three poistion in the B when a back marker hit me.

Some pics including the last one with the popped off shock.

Link to the Utube video of my final below but apologies for not doing very well, bit slow and as it was my very first time out with this car I could only make the B final but once I work out a pukka set up I aim to change that. Got up to fourth and pulling in the third and second places only for my shock to pop off so was not easy to continue but did never the less to the finish so had to settle for eight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBw4...MywZ-qHidaMpsQ