Damper bleed holes
 

How many Tamiya users put bleed holes in the shock caps on the 501x for when filling with oil?

Never tried it on my tam dampers but really like using them on the yokomo's.

I used them straight away for both my 501 and Durga - just makes the shocks so much easier to build and easier to keep them feeling all the same.

In the past I always used the Yokomo YS8 shock caps from the MX4 on my Associated 2wds so I was already familiar with the benefits of the bleed screws :thumbsup:

not tried it dave?

No never have! Do you just use a 2mm drill to make the hole then put a self tapper in?

The worlds kit has the little allen head bleed screw in it. I found the shocks very good without, so never put them in:D

I used them on my 501 and yes, a 2mm drill would be fine. Andy never used them as he never changes his shock oil :p

And it still beats you.:lol: Wait till i change it:p

I don't use the bleed holes but do use the TRF shock bladder from their touring car shocks. :thumbsup:

You don't need to drill the 2mm hole and tap it. The holes for the screws are already there, so just screw in the provided M2 screws. Only thing you need to do is make a small hole from inside the shock cap (at the centre). The hole only needs to be about 1 or 2 mm deep to meet the one that's already there. I didn't trust myself with the powerdrill so I used a body post hole reamer instead. Just make a tiny hole. And ya, the shocks are much easier to do now.

Oops, just realised I might be wrong. What I said applies to the TRF set and 501X Worlds shock caps. Didn't realise the original 501X ones are different and might need drilling after all.

hmmm, you drill them inside to join with the hole in the top cap - it's in the review :thumbsup:

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/review501x/shocks01.jpg

about this set of hop-up aeration shock, what are the proper steps from filling in the oil to closing the caps in order to bring out its best performance?


step 1? to last step?

anyone like to give a detail guide as to how it should be done?
would be nice to have it :thumbsup:

Could you just tap in the screw to make the hole then tidy up the inside?

fill them to the top, put the cap on loosely, push the shaft in slowly - tighten the cap.
If the shaft is then too stiff and won't fully compress let out some oil by repeating the above. Tuning the 'feel' so it's the same on all dampers is the idea - having the shaft extend 1cm or so after compression is probably what I usually aim for.

Using the bleed screw is another way of doing it - but either way will result in the same, just a different way about it.

not sure what you mean? you can't put a screw into the shock from the inside as it's got nothing to grip onto to get started. You can maybe use a knife or a reamer but I'd suggest a small drill bit to get it perfect. Really only a shallow little hole is needed.

Sorry Jimmy, should have explained, on the yok you can get the screw to tap in from the outside and push through to create the hole itself? Was wondering if the Tam would work the same if that makes sense?

Cheers for the help guys, my HL damper bodies and new WO driveshafts arrived today for the 501x I'm building, and with the help of Jim's review and the body reamer idea have managed to get the bleed holes sorted!

Cheers again!

Has anyone used whities in tamiya shocks by the way?

What are whities and what driveshafts are you talking about? :woot:

Whities are different o-rings, I've used them before but not on tamiya's, they replace the red ones!

The driveshafts are new option parts, they work over wider suspension angles!

I'm sure Jimmy has tried whities ;)

G

Think I may be placing an order soon!

Team drivers favour the use of one tam red o ring on the shock top side of cart and one mip blue on the bottom and use the shims in the upgrade rod guide set to adjust the friction created(i use 0.6mm) There is alot of differing views on bleed screws but our view point is avoid them. This shock is an emulsion shock ie it needs air and oil mix to work effectively, this was chosen over the oil/diaphragm shock as was found to be superior for off road usage( remember tamiya created this shock from scratch rather than usuing the df series of shocks which are offroad versions of the wonderful trf tc shock)
Using a bleed screw you will find it hard to create a pair of shocks with the same amount of oil to air ratio. bleeding the way jimmy describes earlier is far easier to maintain consistant shocks.
Even better is to measure the amount of oil needed to fill each shock to get the consistancy you want, then just put exactly the same in the opposite side. then you know each shock has the same amount of air and oil.

the last technique, i apprieciate, is a fiddly task but once you get the hang of it you will feel the difference on the track.

hope this info helps.

Where are you guys still getting MIP blue seals? I can't find them anywhere here in the states.

It's interesting that you use a mix of metric and standard o-rings in your cartridge. I've taken to the Kyosho "x-rings" for metric applications. I still haven't had enough time with them to really tell the diff, esp between the clear and red versions.

IMO the Kyosho "X" rings (as found as options for the rb5, zx5 sp and fs) are teh best O-rings you can use for the Tamiya shocks. I am surprised the team guys use one MIP ring as that is an SAE size (1/16" I think) and possibly would be too loose or add too much stiction.

The x ring is teh same size--3mm x 6mm and seems to give less stiction to the shock action while at the same time sealing much better. The only issue is that here in teh states they are roughly $8 for a package of 8!!

I think the stock red Tamiya silicone o-rings are kind of hard--they are harder than the equivalent style Associated and Losi o-rings. I find they just dont seal very well at all. Maybe they are really old and the silicone has dried out?

I would be curious on trying the stock Yoke BX clear silicone o-rings as they are a metric size and would work. I already use the Yoke shafts (front BC and rear Bx) which are exactly the same lengths as teh WCE shafts but the ti-nitride coating lasts MUCH longer than the 2-3 race days of the original WCE shafts.

Does anyone know the diameter of the steel shims used in the WCE shock cartridges?

Can anyone help me with the 54028 dampers? I unfortunately cracked the bottom piece which screws onto the shock shaft and attatches to the suspension arms. Now i have one rear damper with the standard piece that comes with the damper kit and the other without. anu suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. A.J.

I think you want Tamiya part number 51282.

Thanks brother!:drool: