DEX210v2
 

Hi ,

Just wandering if there was any news on the new 2WD Durango I heard it was expected at the beginning of February but is there any specifications yet or any clue on the price?

Thanks,

Nick

The release date for the dex410v4 has be pushed back till Feb. So you can bet the 210v2 release date will be pushed later now too. I could see April it comes out hope its sooner but I doubt it..

Unfortunately td has taken far too long, so in march my dex210 for sale and im buying an associated.

Tbh all other buggy manufacturers with exception of tamiya sell a far superior product so would advise buying one of them rather than wait.

It would be great if Durango would announce official dates for all releases - and stick with them of course. I thought the V2 was due soon and would be an updated car loaded with Spec B parts and the new shock tower+front arms. If so, you're wondering why it's not here by now. So I can only hope for Durango it's more than putting upgrades into the new model if they're taking so long.

EIther way, they will both be available in time for spring as the weather gets warmer.

The most official date I have in late february. The whole part with the date getting pushed back, that may not be totally correct. If the entire first batch is pre ordered, they push the date back to reflect the time anyone can buy one off there site. That being said its now January so clearly the v4 has been delayed a bit, but it may be sooner then late february for those that pre ordered them either direct of through your LHS. Regardless, they'll be nice cars worth running, for the price you can't go wrong.

More and more details comes allive!:woot:

http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html

ToweHobbies have allready some new part#:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2+++&search=Go

by the looks of it longer chassis and straight A arms... not ground breaking stuff. Second hand 210s are worth up grading instead of waiting for the v2 and having no testing time before the season kicks off.

Was waiting but bit the bullet and bought a V1 to start racing with.

Now it is on TD's web page, too!

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...n-coming-soon/

These race-winning features
are now standard equipment:
■ 8 mm-longer hard-anodized aluminum chassis for more
straight-line stability and better post-jump recovery
■ New, straight front arms for more ground clearance and better
aerodynamics
■ New, interchangeable rear arms for front or rear shock
mounting options
■ Redesigned rear chassis brace for easier access to gearbox
and power system
■ New side pods provide more mounting space for electronics
and better dirt and water protection
■ New front shock tower design and material for faster,
easier access to camber links and superior crash resistance
■ Improved, low-profile rear shock tower for better post-jump
handling and more shock tuning options
■ New v2 cab-forward body for greater downforce and
straight-line stability
■ More shock piston choices, including blank pistons for
custom setups
■ Updated DIMEC X ball cups for better crash resistance and
faster adjustment
■ -2 mm rear low roll-center suspension hanger for improved
(forward) traction and smoother cornering on low-grip tracks
■ All Team Durango Type “B” upgrades

You are right dizzy,

I'm very happy, that i bought a just one raceweekend used 210 with many spares, tires and upgrades for a good price, just a view months ago!:lol:

Just done the same. Will give the v2 a year to get a few upgrades and a bit more "proven" before I spend out for a new car

Looking good. However (a bit of a letdown for current DEX210 owners, it seems like anyone upgrading to the longer chassis will need the sidepods too. Also, with a 2mm lower RR hanger, will we run 3-6 degree anti-squat, or have Durango made a lower RF hanger and/or a slot in the chassis? :lol:

Suspension-wise, since the front arms are different, does the front shock tower have different geometry - other than the stepped shape of it? Are the rear shock shafts shorter (to same length as the DEX410's) in combination with the lower tower? What are the rear droop levels out of the box? And will the new rear arms be compatible with the old ones?

And lastly, does this car have long outdrives as stock or not?

What about the gearbox? thought that was going more low profile with the slipper adjustment on the slipper side and an larger sized bearing on the opposite side of the layshaft?

no doubt a costly after kit upgrade part that will never be in stock anywhere

I have read somewere, that thay was using the RB6 gearbox at the worlds!?
Are these what you mean?

The dimec +8 chassis is still better on low to med grip surfaces. It is more flexible and forgiving. The aluminum will be more responsive on high bite surfaces.

As for the -2 LRC hanger. You will need to use the 0-3 rear front hanger, which will give you 2 degrees squat and 3 toe. If you use the 3-3, you will have 5 degrees of anti squat.

Rear arms just have holes on the other side so that you can mount the shocks in front or rear of the arm. But I think it should be the same. As for shock shafts and out drives - It is hard to tell only from pictures.

Yeh yeh I'm aware of them using an RB6 as a trial but thought a new box was being worked on especially with that trial and the small layshaft bearing being a weak point?

And if you want to run less than 2degrees? or is that not an option or something that you'd ever want to do on the car?

Lowering the RR hanger 2mm adds 3 degrees of anti-squat. So if they changes nothing on the chassis or RF hanger, it'll be 3-6 degrees of anti-squat. I only run MM4 and I only really run 0 and 1.5 degrees - I've run 3 degrees on carpet just once, the rest of the time the car needs the 0 deg - particularly with the HRC, but with the LRC I think the car (for my tracks and setups) will still be best off with a mild anti-squat setting.

As for the DIMEC chassis, I understand the whole idea of flex, but flex is not the way to gain grip on low-bite tracks - I'm sure it helps, but it doesn't do as much as dialled in shocks, or a ball diff over a gear diff. In addition, a plastic chassis results in a light car, and with the bumpy tracks I drive on you need a heavy car to soak up the bumps. Lastly, I have yet to witness someone breaking an alu DEX210 chassis, and the DIMEC doesn't quite have the same reputation :lol:

I imagine Durango have made a RF block that allows you to run 0 anti-squat.... surely?

When i was locking on the pick of the type b parts, i think there is one with 0 kick-up typed on it!?

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330578

Edit: Oh, i'm sorry, when you use the -2 LRC block, it will give you again anti-squat....:wtf:

Look at the other brands that introduce flex into the chassis or screws you can back off on the side pods. Flex is part of getting grip on low bite tracks. Mind you, you still need a good setup on shocks for low bite in order to get the grip and to use the right tires. As for low bite, it really doesn't matter whether you have a ball or gear diff. It matters the tension or resistance on the diff. Try a thicker oil on the rear gear diff like 7k or 10k on low bite and tell me how it feels. As for a heavier car to soak up bumps, you can also try using lighter oils instead of adding weight.
Use something like a 3x 1.5mm 27 front and 20 or 25wt rear. Depending on temp. As for the low bite tracks I drive on, first of all I use a RM4 transmission to get me max grip. 10k gear diff. I am running 3 degrees antisquat to give the most acceleration out of a corner. Actually I run HRC and not LRC, cause when the car rotates, it rotates more consistent with the HRC block.

Any diff updates? not that I've had bother with the ball diff, but it could be more conventional and alot of people did struggle with it in the begining, it would seem odd to upgrade some of the car but still leave inherent problems from the first kit.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDXMJ&P=7

Going by Towerhobbies' information, the car should have the long outdrives :)

But still the odd circlip design?

I'm looking into something about that, hopefully 'something' surfaces in the next 6 or so months ;)

I never had a single issue with it and I think it's quite clever than your thrust bearing doesn't fall apart immediately when you open up the diff. Also, you can assume that if a slightly different geometry would help the build/prevent the circlip from undoing itself, they would've picked that up and improved it for the kit.

And if you dislike it that much, I recall stories of people fitting other cars' diffs in there? :eh?:

i dont understand, what this guy is talking, but there are some nice closeups....

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OYePXcSDmBk&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DOYe PXcSDmBk

Just to point out the line NOT THAT I'VE HAD ANY BOTHER WITH IT clears that up!

And you can put a caged thrust race in a more conventional diff,

The point I was making was how many threads did you read, my diff doesn,t work, my diff did this, this diff sh*t, changed to a geardiff cos the ball diffs???, etc etc etc

And then onto the slipper this, the slipper that, I have to run mine to this day with a washer between the large layshaft bearing and the inner slipper plate otherwise it won't adjust up.

I'm not ragging the car I love mine far better than the thing I replaced it with whilst waiting for the V2 so I've gone back to it.

I think the complaints against the diff and slipper far out way your 1 vote for the thrust bearing, which to my mind mean it should have been looked at for the version 2.

I was told (not by someone at Durango either) that the thrust race used is the smallest 'industrial' and therefore hardwearing size there is, its just too big to go in the other side!